Jump to content

Wet bay heater


Recommended Posts

and what troubleshooting have you done already?

And what is it not doing correctly?

And when did that start happening?

And did something happen that caused that?

if you can't provide information that is required for assistance, no one can help

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thermal fuse inside the wet bay heater gives out.  This is the fuse (and crimps) from Newark Electronics -

I bought 3 sets and gone through 2 of them.  The fuse isn't robust enough (300W = 25A) and haven't found a more robust one so I'll probably knock it down with a 0.1 ohm resistor from my junk box at home in series with the main supply line.  It could also be tripping on temp (184C) . . . .

Line No:1 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price:
39T4439 G5A01184C Each 1 3 $2.54 $7.62
Customer Part Number: Customer PO Line Number: 001
Description: FUSE, THERMAL, 184øC, 20A, 250VAC; Product Range:MICROTEMP Series; Fuse Current:20A; Voltage Rating VAC:250V; Functioning Temperature:184øC; Fuse Terminals:Axial Leaded; Holding Temperature:169øC
Shipping Via: GROUND FOBS
Expected Ship Date: 04/07/2021              Expected Ship Quantity: 3
Line No:2 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price:
50F3313 323754 Each 1 6 $0.61 $3.66
Customer Part Number: Customer PO Line Number: 002

Description: TERMINAL, PARALLEL SPLICE, CRIMP; Product Range:SOLISTRAND, STRATO-THERM Series; Wire Size AWG Min:12AWG; Wire Size AWG Max:10AWG; Conductor Area CSA:6.64mmý; Terminal Material:Copper; Insulation:Non Insulated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

The thermal fuse inside the wet bay heater gives out.  This is the fuse (and crimps) from Newark Electronics -

I bought 3 sets and gone through 2 of them.  The fuse isn't robust enough (300W = 25A) and haven't found a more robust one so I'll probably knock it down with a 0.1 ohm resistor from my junk box at home in series with the main supply line.  It could also be tripping on temp (184C) . . . .

Line No:1 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price:
39T4439 G5A01184C Each 1 3 $2.54 $7.62
Customer Part Number: Customer PO Line Number: 001
Description: FUSE, THERMAL, 184øC, 20A, 250VAC; Product Range:MICROTEMP Series; Fuse Current:20A; Voltage Rating VAC:250V; Functioning Temperature:184øC; Fuse Terminals:Axial Leaded; Holding Temperature:169øC
Shipping Via: GROUND FOBS
Expected Ship Date: 04/07/2021              Expected Ship Quantity: 3
Line No:2 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price:
50F3313 323754 Each 1 6 $0.61 $3.66
Customer Part Number: Customer PO Line Number: 002

Description: TERMINAL, PARALLEL SPLICE, CRIMP; Product Range:SOLISTRAND, STRATO-THERM Series; Wire Size AWG Min:12AWG; Wire Size AWG Max:10AWG; Conductor Area CSA:6.64mmý; Terminal Material:Copper; Insulation:Non Insulated

Awesome info! Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a write up in our files.

pdf;charset=UTF-8&X-Amz-Signature=729d90

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would have thought if it was the thermal fuse the heater would not work at all.

I wonder if it has some sort of setting for heater and one for fan that allows the fan to stay on all the time and the element on and off as needed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I would have thought if it was the thermal fuse the heater would not work at all.

I wonder if it has some sort of setting for heater and one for fan that allows the fan to stay on all the time and the element on and off as needed. 

Mine ran with no heat. The snap disc is what sends power to the heater once you give it power at the convenience center. So maybe its an issue. I recently replaced mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I would have thought if it was the thermal fuse the heater would not work at all.

I wonder if it has some sort of setting for heater and one for fan that allows the fan to stay on all the time and the element on and off as needed. 

The thermal fuse is in series with the heating element inside the heater.  It can be triggered by current (20A) or excessive heat (184C).  Being a 300W heater (25A) the fuse alone is under rated.  The design engineer has been berated, flogged and cast into the Sea of Electrons.  

I could never find a higher rated fuse at that temp.  I found a 0.1 ohm 10W resistor in my junk box from 1975 to put in series with the main supply, or with the element inside with my last fuse.  I'm willing to sacrifice a few watts to keep my wet bay from freezing.  

- bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

The thermal fuse is in series with the heating element inside the heater.  It can be triggered by current (20A) or excessive heat (184C).  Being a 300W heater (25A) the fuse alone is under rated.  The design engineer has been berated, flogged and cast into the Sea of Electrons.  

I could never find a higher rated fuse at that temp.  I found a 0.1 ohm 10W resistor in my junk box from 1975 to put in series with the main supply, or with the element inside with my last fuse.  I'm willing to sacrifice a few watts to keep my wet bay from freezing.  

- bob

So the thermal fuse resets itself and the heater starts working again while the fan continues to work, is this correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, jacwjames said:

So the thermal fuse resets itself and the heater starts working again while the fan continues to work, is this correct?

I could be wrong but I don't the thermal fuse resets.  One shot only. . . . .

The fan works independently of the fuse.  The thermal fuse affects the heating element only. 

- bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I could be wrong but I don't the thermal fuse resets.  One shot only. . . . .

The fan works independently of the fuse.  The thermal fuse affects the heating element only. 

- bob

That's why the symptoms are so confusing.  He indicates the heat comes and goes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, jacwjames said:

That's why the symptoms are so confusing.  He indicates the heat comes and goes. 

I believe there can be two issues.  The bad thermal fuse will keep the element from coming on.  As was the case for me.  There is also what I believe is an internal temp sensor that will prevent overheating, and could go bad I suppose.  This would explain heat coming on and then off.  See pic below posted before in a similar post.

IMG_1908.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...