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Power Watchdog EPO


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Mine did the same thing in Missouri at a small 10 lot site. Turns out the whole park he’d the same issue after I checked the other sites. The owner. Fought in an electrician and did the repairs. Watchdog dod what is was supposed to do.

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9 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

I put a two outlet electrical box on a extra 50 amp male plug that I had. Bought two circuit testers and plugged them in. Now I  test the pedestal for correct wiring before I plug in the RV.

Gary 05 AMB DST 

I did the same thing. Also added two digital plug in volt meters so I can see the voltage on each leg and then also got a 220volt indicator. All in I was around $50 in materials. Would have been a lot cheaper if I would have had a 5-0 amp cord end with a 5-0 amp plug

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11 hours ago, davidkulman said:

I have the power watchdog EPO 50 Amp,  when I  turn the power on I get error " Missing neutral " ,  I have checked every neutral connection I can find.  Even tried different pedestals... any ideas on where to look. 

 

How did you check the neutral?  What did you use to check it?  A open/bad neutral can cause a lot of expensive damage to the coach.  I would unplug the coach from any shore power until the issue gets resolved.  

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I have found that it is quite common to have campgrounds with failed neutral/ground bond.  Unlike residential wiring that has the neutral/ground bond at the residence, RV code requires the neutral/ground bond to be external to the RV wiring for safety reasons.  (Mike Sokol has written a number articles about this situation if you wish to do some research on his blog.)  This situation also arises if you attempt to power from a small generator that does not have a neutral/ground bond.  I have created a 50 amp adapter plug that is neutral/ground bonded that I use in these situations.  It satisfies the code requirements that the bond be external to the RV.  Mike has a description of how to build one for your own use if you wish.  It would be nice if all campgrounds kept their power pedestals maintained and properly functioning, but we all know that just is not happening.  It is more frustrating when you report the issue to campground management and they act like it is your fault (They say "well no one else is having any problems").  Only RVs with sophisticated energy management systems will catch this issue.

Richard   

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As usual, a good topic and discussion.  The HW50C (Progressive) in line surge protector will totally shut down when there is a “No Neutral” fault.  That saved me big time.  There are some of the higher end ATS, typically used in say 2005 or so and up ….Dynasty's that have, I believe, that have more sophisticated ATS and will pick this up.

NOW…mine caught it and it was NOT a pedestal problem.  I verified that the Ground and Neutral were connected or bonded at the pedestal.  The problem was actually in my line cord plug.  It was the original OEM and we are the only owners.  I opened a bay door and the door “bumped”….not banged or slammed into the plug as the pedestal had an external 50 amp receptacle.  I mean just lightly tapped it.  OPPS, no power.  The inverter kicked in and it was a while before I caught it.  I refused to accept that, but did the trouble shooting.  YEP…my end.  I was able to find the J Box in the rear where the cord reel was connected to the main line going to the HW50C…then to the ATS.  No issues.  Cut off the end.  Put on a new Camco 50 A and silicone potted the plug.  Been fine for 8 years and over 500 nights out.

I DO carry a spare 50A plug and a tube of Dow Corning #5 (memory) insulating or potting compound.  This is preferred over silicone…but mine is working great.

You can easily do a Neutral to Ground test, as well as checking voltages.  My HW50C does that so I don’t bother.  If the power is bad, I never extend the slides and notify the CG.  UNFORTUNATELY, most don’t have a clue and will say, Nobody ELSE has.  Try explaining Neutral to Ground Bonding….or in phase and out of phase 240 VDC to an owner or an employee….like taking to a bureaucrat…..

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