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Smart wheel no functions work.


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Hello I’m trying to get my smart wheel to work.  I replaced the 210 board and still nothing.  I sent the new board and steering wheel buttons to m and m and they said everything checks out.  Problem I’m I see so far is I only have 2.34 volts to the wire going to the steering wheel.  I checked the wire before the clock spring and after the clock spring and both only read 2.34 volts.  Any thoughts ? Thank you. 

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Have you checked the plug at the base of the steering column? Check the voltage at that plug and unplug it and plug it back together four or five times to see if you can make the connection better.

Tim

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Then I would start focusing at the power going in to the VIP control board. Make sure you have 12+ voltage going to it.

Tim

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I DK have the guide thank you.  As far as power coming in I have 12.5 volts.  I’m thinking a ground possibly since I only have 2.34 coming out of the board. 

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1 minute ago, Tim-AZ said:

Are your sure the board is seeing 12.5?

Tim

Yes I put a multi meter on the 12 supply sides. Using there trouble shooting guide every place they said to test has correct power with expectation of j1-1 it should have 7-10 volts and only has 2.34. 

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Posted (edited)

Do you have a clock spring or a slip ring in your steering wheel?

I have a slip ring and the tabs that connected to the spring sucked. see pictures and try to enlarge them on your screen. The bottom is before I soldered wires and the top is after.

Tim

Slip ring spring After.JPG

Slip ring spring before.JPG

Edited by Tim-AZ
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8 minutes ago, Tim-AZ said:

Do you have a clock spring or a slip ring in your steering wheel?

I have a slip ring and the tabs that connected to the spring sucked. see pictures and try to enlarge them on your screen. The bottom is before I soldered wires and the top is after.

Tim

Slip ring spring After.JPG

Slip ring spring before.JPG

I have a clock spring.  I have 2.34 volts on the steering wheel side and when I disconnect the connector on the column below the clock spring I still have 2.34 volts. 

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Posted (edited)

That makes me think your problem is in your front electrical bay. I'm not the best person to figure this out. I still can't get my courtesy lights to work on my steering wheel to work 

Tim 

Edited by Tim-AZ
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8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

What did the Troubleshooting Guide suggest to do if J1 - 1 doesn't test out correctly?

If it doesn’t check continuity between ground and j1-2.  If present replace master.  I have continuity and I replaced the master and still have continuity.  That’s when I decided to send board out to m and m and they checked everything out and it all checks out to be good. 

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OK, your last post is puzzling.

The guide states, "Measure the DC voltage at J1.1 (Multiplex SIG) on the Master. It should measure in the
range of 7-10 Volts. If it doesn't, check the continuity between J1.2 and chassis ground. If continuity exists, replace the Master."

So, you have already replaced the master BUT you are getting the same test response, continuity between J1.2 and ground. My next call would be to VIP to ask why you are getting the same response of continuity between J1.2 and ground with the new master control box and what you should do next.

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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

OK, your last post is puzzling.

The guide states, "Measure the DC voltage at J1.1 (Multiplex SIG) on the Master. It should measure in the
range of 7-10 Volts. If it doesn't, check the continuity between J1.2 and chassis ground. If continuity exists, replace the Master."

So, you have already replaced the master BUT you are getting the same test response, continuity between J1.2 and ground. My next call would be to VIP to ask why you are getting the same response of continuity between J1.2 and ground with the new master control box and what you should do next.

Unfortunately Vip tech service is horrible. I tried to get them to respond to me and no response. M and M seams to think it’s a ground problem so that’s what I’m going to check into now.  Very aggravating. 

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Normally, ground problems manifest themselves with missing ground or very poor ground connections. In your case you are getting a ground connection where there should not be ANY ground connection.

How does M&M explain how that can happen?

Is it possible that the ground is back-feeding into an area of the master control because of something else happening?

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