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2007 Knight Intellitec EMS & Breaker Issues


TDaleABQ
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Just a HUGE shout out to this group.  As a owner of a 2007 Monaco Knight SKT bought new in 2006, I would never replace her.  They just do not make them like this anymore.

On my annual trip to crabbing season in northern Oregon from Alb, NM I have a new issue.  My EMS display is not coming on and I have a clicking sound from the relays in my breaker box when "front AC" breaker is on and normally it will stop but now it stays clicking.  At first I thought my Transfer Switch was bad but it is not. A few of my 110 outlets also stop working but then after resetting some breaker switches the outlets will work, but the EMS display stays off and the clicking in the relays in the breaker box continue until I switch the "front AC" breaker off, and the EMS display is blank.  I appreciate any assistance.  Thank you,

TDale, ABQNM

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The clicking sounds like the EMS is in a funk.  That Intellitec system is supposed to load shed to prevent overloads.  You did not state what type of power you had. A single 30 A or a full 50 A from the shore power.

The first step is to do an EMS reset.  Disconnect all power as in the shore line and turn off the circuit breaker on the generator.  Now it is safe to remove the main panel cover.  There will be a module or a printed circuit board on the right side,  There is a fuse (3  A?) that needs to be pulled.  I recommend disconnecting the 2 or 3 pigtails or connector.  This is the EMS module.  You have now powered it down.

Next is to tighten all the screws or terminal strip connections in the main panel.  Over time, some vibrate loose.  Do every one….  Also tighten every screw on the circuit breakers.  

Next, check the circuit breakers, especially the front AC.  These “snap in”.  We have had breakers that were not properly seated or as one person put it, slipped or slide down.  You (memory) lift the end of the breaker where the terminal is and the wire is attached.  The breaker plugs in at the top.  When you raise it or lift it, like you were removing it, then you push it back in place, keeping upward pressure on the wire end so the upper end, which has split, spring loaded contacts, fully engage the Buss bar.  Basically, reseating the breaker.  All the breakers should be fully “up” or lined up at the bottom.  If one breaker has vibrated loose and slipped down, you have a high resistance connection.  If you have a spare or unused one, snap it out or almost out and then back in to get the “hang of it”.  If a breaker is fully seated and lined up, there will be some resistance when you try to lift it up for removal.  Any that are loose will be easy to feel.  

I would pop out the front AC breaker and use a flash light to see the copper buss or tang or blade that the breaker snaps into.  Look for burned or arcing there.  If you see such then use a small screw driver or whatever and scrape away the residue.  Replace that breaker as the spring or tension contacts in the braker have over time,  heated and lost their “tension” or the spring loaded ability to make and keep a good mechanical joint.

Now replace the connectors and put the fuse back in and put the panel cover on and then plug in the shore or start the Genny.  If that doesn’t solve it, call M&M RV electronics in Ohio City, OH.  They are an authorized distributor of the panel and the EMS….and also the paid technical support for Intellitec….or at least they were.

NOW…your comment on the outlets confuses me.  All the 120 outlets, save maybe one in the bedroom, work this way.  Incoming power, from the ATS, goes to the main panel.  There is a 30 amp breaker for the charger;inverter.  That goes to the inverter.  The inverter has an ATS on the control board.  You have to have the inverter “ON” and hooked up to the house bank.  The house bank has to be partially charged.  

The inverter check or monitors the incoming 30 amp 120 VAC power.  If there is power (shore or Genny), then that power is passed through the ATS and there are two circuits coming out.  One to the  microwave and the other to the outlets.  The outlets first get power at the GFCI (usually) a receptacle one…on some models, probably not yours, there are GFCI Breakers in another panel (sub panel).  On the inverter, there is (Magnum) some push button or resettable “pin” type circuit breakers.  If they are tripped, the pin sticks out and you push down to reset it….much like you reset a GFCI.  If there is no incoming 120 VAC, then the inverter starts to invert and the ATS switches to the control board for AC power.  It works like your main ATS.  If there is 120 VAC, it passes it through the ATS on the control board.  No power, then it inverts or gives you power from the house bank.  Read the inverter manual.

Sometimes there is an outlet in the bedroom that is NOT on the 30 A inverter circuit.  It has a separate circuit breaker in the main panel.  Often it is part of the Diesel engine block heater.  

I do not understand which outlets you are referring to…

Do the above PM and reset.  I would also purchase a 20 A (not 15) Eaton Wiring devices or Leviton GFCI receptacle NOT the TAMPERPROOF style and replace the old one.  Over time, they go bad and do strange things.  As I said, I don’t quite understand the outlet comments, but replacing the GFCI is a good preventative to avoid electrical ghosts.

Good luck….let us know….how it turned out.

 

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Check your breaker that serves the inverter/charger. It is likely a 30 amp one.

Push it off firmly and then back on. 

Symptoms of loss of power to certain outlets (probably go through the inverter/converter), makes me think it is not getting power. 

I have not dug into the power flow and schematic to see why this happens or maybe I just forgot but those symptoms happened when my breaker tripped.

This is a breaker in the main AC panel. Even if it feels like it is on cycle it off and then on.

 

 

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Lots of good advice from above.

You state that the display is not coming on >>>> make sure all your breakers are on.  The EMS requires power to display.  If I don't have my washer/dryer breaker on the display won't work.  First time this happened to me I was frantic, flipped the W/D breaker on and the display worked.

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You received some really great suggestions.

I would do what Tom & Jim recommended.

First do a complete reset of the EMS Control Board. Second, make sure ALL of your circuit breakers are ON in the EMS Power Panel.

If that doesn't work, then a new control board is in your future.

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I have owned my 02 Dip since new and now has 136k.  I left my AZ home where the coach in connected to 30amp service.  When I got to Oregon and connected to 50amp my ems would only show 30amp.  I won't bother you with all the things I tried but not my first rodeo of fixes over the years.  I finally gave up and drove the coach to a good rv repair.  We pushed, pulled, tested and swore a little.  I have been running for years with the W/D breaker off as I don't have one.  The mechanic flipped the breaker on and off and halleluiah the ems displayed 50amp.  I drove home with the W/D breaker off and when I plugged into 50amp (o hit) ems was back on 30amp.  I turned on the W/D breaker and halleluiah again we were back to 50amp.  I have left the W/D breaker on ever since and ems shows correctly either 30 or 50 amp.  Don't know why it work and really don't care, as long as it works.  have a good day, Ken 

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Ken is correct that the washer/dryer breaker has to be on for the Intellitec EMS to work, otherwise the relay on the EMS board next to circuit breakers will keep “clicking.”

I was helping my buddy with a 07 Camelot with the issue.  Chris at M & M Electronics explained why the “clicking” along with the fix. Washer/dryer breaker needs to be on. 

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2007 Knight Intellitec EMS & Breaker Issues
1 hour ago, Happycarz said:

Ken is correct that the washer/dryer breaker has to be on for the Intellitec EMS to work, otherwise the relay on the EMS board next to circuit breakers will keep “clicking.”

I was helping my buddy with a 07 Camelot with the issue.  Chris at M & M Electronics explained why the “clicking” along with the fix. Washer/dryer breaker needs to be on. 

WE HAVE A WINNER.  Great POST.  BUT, reset it.  It never hurts and do the PM whilst in there.

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