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Slide out not working


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My slide out is not working in or out.
As with all the information I have, one contradict the other
The switch on the panel has six prongs, three on the left that are used , and three on the right that only two are used leaving the middle empty.
According with the HWH diagram, I should have 12 volt at the middle prong which I don't
On the outside fuse panel (by the driver's window) fuse #1 (15 amp reset fuse) has 12 volts. On the attached PDF it shows that only three prongs are wired (this is the only diagram I can find that mention anything on the slide out)

I believe there is a relay that may be cutting off the power to that wire, but I don't have a location for it or a diagram to figure how it works.

HWH schematic shows a relay that may be interrupting the power but it does "before" the fuse, and I have power to a 15 amp fuse, if I am looking at the same fuse though.
I do appreciate your help. I suppose to be leaving in a week for vacation and I am stock with an open slide out.

Thanks to all

 

 

 

20220903_102719.jpg

slide out.pdf

Edited by Pampero
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You should have compartments under the slide out. Look at the door switches on those compartments to make sure they are not loose and that they are working. That's what stopped mine.

Tim

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20 minutes ago, Tim-AZ said:

You should have compartments under the slide out. Look at the door switches on those compartments to make sure they are not loose and that they are working. That's what stopped mine.

Tim

Yup, or at least on my Power Gear slide.   Sometimes I just have to go outside and slam the doors shut.

I have an inhibitor switch on each of the 3 doors under my large slide.  They have to be closed. 

Edited by jacwjames
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Some comments from past trouble shooting and some from your prints.  The HWH one is a “generic”.  You need the one that shows the slide circuit for your MH.

EDIT…..here is some info from a past problem.  Does you have the “slide” controller.  Check the fuses there.  The relays, on it are NOT, I think, replaceable.

From memory, the control circuit for yours looks like it is correct.  This is what I remember from another thread where it took me forever to finally understand the circuit.  The HWH print is correct in that the parking brake has to be set.  That provides a ground.  The “on” light when you set the brake and have the switch on means it is grounded….that ground signal goes to the coil relay in the HWH print.
 

NOW in the print in my memory…..the switches were series strung on the ground side.

If you have door switches and your doors “lift up”, then the door switches are “series” strung with the parking brake so….that provides a ground to a Bosch relay….or maybe the pump relay.  So, if anyone of the switches is not properly closed, then you get no 12.VDC to the center of the switch.  The one thing I do recall.  If your parking brake light is not on….that will keep them from working.

try the doors…..that is the easiest.  I will search for the post…funky circuit….

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I tested all three switches, all three are getting battery voltage and they close the loop when they are pushed in.

The middle prong on the left side of the switch has a black wire (all three on the left side are black) with a sticker that says "battery relay switched" what it means that a relay has to complete the loop. But I have no clue where the relay is located.

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I don't see an ignition lockout relay in that picture. If your park light was ON, that would mean that ignition was ON and lockout would remove power from the switch. That's how mine works.

7 minutes ago, Pampero said:

I tested all three switches, all three are getting battery voltage and they close the loop when they are pushed in.

The middle prong on the left side of the switch has a black wire (all three on the left side are black) with a sticker that says "battery relay switched" what it means that a relay has to complete the loop. But I have no clue where the relay is located.

My lockout relay is on rear low current plate by the engine, not sure about your configuration.

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See my edit in the first post.  Do you have the controller in the circuit I found….?  I’m mixing circuits in my mind.  You need to find the right one.  Keep looking in our files.

I’m a little perplexed by the terminals on the slide control switch.  Can you get a picture.  That is a momentary contact switch.  The three are the power in or center….then the outside are the In and Out signals,  but I don’t understand the missing wire on the other side…

keep looking for the exact wiring diagram..and give us a picture 

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1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

I don't see an ignition lockout relay in that picture. If your park light was ON, that would mean that ignition was ON and lockout would remove power from the switch. That's how mine works.

My lockout relay is on rear low current plate by the engine, not sure about your configuration.

 

52 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

See my edit in the first post.  Do you have the controller in the circuit I found….?  I’m mixing circuits in my mind.  You need to find the right one.  Keep looking in our files.

I’m a little perplexed by the terminals on the slide control switch.  Can you get a picture.  That is a momentary contact switch.  The three are the power in or center….then the outside are the In and Out signals,  but I don’t understand the missing wire on the other side…

keep looking for the exact wiring diagram..and give us a picture 

This is my situation, I thought it was not relevant but may serve as an excuse.
I am leaving in my coach for over a year now while I am building a house, which is taking longer that originally planed. So the slide has being out for all this time.
I had some problems with the electrical awning(Lippert) so I had to do some rewiring. When my slide out didn't work I check If I moved/disconnected any wiring related to the slide out. I didn't find anything that I could have done. I checked the fuse on the outside panel and it is good.

Since it has being longtime, I tried to see if I have voltage a the prong (niddle on left side) with the ignition key on or off, with the jacks up, checked al the bay door switches.

This is what it puzzles me; the HWH shows the basic principle before Monaco "modified" it. In that it shows that the pump relay energize the 15 amp fuse. Fuse #1 on the panel is energized.
Battery power should reach the momentary switch at the middle terminal; on my coach it is a black wire that is labeled "Battery relay switched" but it does not have voltage.
So I assuming that Monaco installed all those bay switches in series and place a relay in between.
I wonder if I do supply voltage to that middle prong it will work?
On the HWH schematic it shows that the middle either sends out or receive voltage to the accessory +12 fused
I got the feeling that I disconnected that middle prong when I was working on the awning, I replaced the wire nuts they installed with better push in connectors and I may have throw it out by mistake.

 

20220903_134547.jpg

HWH slideout 1.pdf

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This is how ours of the same vintage is wired. The door contacts and relay contacts don't necessarily have to be in that order for it to work. All the switch posts are in use.

IMG_20220810_204628700_kindlephoto-167383969.jpg

BTW, may not be your case but both my battery banks have to be turned ON. Valves run on house, pump on chassis batteries. And I like it, no unnecessary control boards to go bad and complicate things.

Edited by Ivan K
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2 hours ago, Pampero said:

 

This is my situation, I thought it was not relevant but may serve as an excuse.
I am leaving in my coach for over a year now while I am building a house, which is taking longer that originally planed. So the slide has being out for all this time.
I had some problems with the electrical awning(Lippert) so I had to do some rewiring. When my slide out didn't work I check If I moved/disconnected any wiring related to the slide out. I didn't find anything that I could have done. I checked the fuse on the outside panel and it is good.

Since it has being longtime, I tried to see if I have voltage a the prong (niddle on left side) with the ignition key on or off, with the jacks up, checked al the bay door switches.

This is what it puzzles me; the HWH shows the basic principle before Monaco "modified" it. In that it shows that the pump relay energize the 15 amp fuse. Fuse #1 on the panel is energized.
Battery power should reach the momentary switch at the middle terminal; on my coach it is a black wire that is labeled "Battery relay switched" but it does not have voltage.
So I assuming that Monaco installed all those bay switches in series and place a relay in between.
I wonder if I do supply voltage to that middle prong it will work?
On the HWH schematic it shows that the middle either sends out or receive voltage to the accessory +12 fused
I got the feeling that I disconnected that middle prong when I was working on the awning, I replaced the wire nuts they installed with better push in connectors and I may have throw it out by mistake.

 

20220903_134547.jpg

HWH slideout 1.pdf 2.48 MB · 2 downloads

In a word….YES….I think.  Again, this is from memory about 6 months ago.  If you have the control box or board, I remember the “most unusual” operation.  The slide switch actually gave power to the the EXTEND VALVE.  But it did NOT, for whatever reason, give power to the Motor solenoid.  The valve then sent back….INCOMING….a + 12 VDC to the OTHER side of the switch.  Stay with me.  Suppose you pushed the EXTEND button and the TOP contact of the switch then sent power to the Extend Valve….when it started to close….it sent BacK a 12 VDC signal to the contact on top or its next door neighbor.  The CENTER contact of THAT side went to the solenoid that started the Motor.  Conversally, if you pushed the RETRACT side, then the bottom side contact sends power to the retract Valve….and then the valve sends power back to the OTHER bottom contact and it again triggered the solenoid to run the motor.

IF…and I SAY THIS WITHOUT ANY GUARANTEES….you FIND 12 VDC somewhere near the switch….then steal it or tap into it….the SLIDE may work.  The other circuit I saw….had the Parking Brake Switch (provided a GROUND) to the two “bin or compartment” switches.  Once all three were closed…..since in series…..then the relay got power to the other side of the coil.  It closed….bingo, there was 12 VDC to the center of the Single Pole Double Throw Center Off Momentary contact switch.  In your case, you don’t have power to the center.  
 

What is perplexing…..why the OTHER two terminals.  Unless they are jumpered to each other, I don’t have any idea.  Maybe Monaco cheated and tied the valve wires ….which actually brought voltage BACK to the. Swith and. Then tied the valves to the motor solenoid and eliminated a wire or tied it off.

Procede at your own risk….but give the switch power from a neighbor.  Bump it quickly on and off.  If you only hear a “click” then that is the valve….if you hear the motor….it should move it the way you bumped it.  YES….many FOLKS have “lost” the control power due to a bad relay or a bad switch and “jimmied” it.

BUT FIRST…look in the FRB for the controller that I blew up drawing in the other post.  Check BOTH fuses on it.  If IT is a bad controller, odds are….no joy.

no guarantee… but that is the logic….let us know.

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