Fuel Filters 02 Knight 5.9 ISB

[Chuck H]

I'm getting ready to change both primary & secondary fuel filters. Can I do both at the same time or do one and the key on cycling routine then do the second filter? Your help is much appreciated!

[Guest Dive Dive]

I have the same engine in my 07 Cayman XL.  I did the primary and then cycled the key then started it to make sure it was good to go.  After that I did the secondary with the same routine.     I can’t say it’s necessarily the proper way but it worked well for me.  

[Chuck H]

Sounds like a plan. Thanks Mark

[Just Jim]

I usually change both of mine at the same time, but I have the system that primes the lines, so it will fill the filters and cycle out the air.  If you have something similar that will purge air/water from the fuel line then you should be able to change both and just cycle it 3 or 4 times.

[CaymanXL]

I to have a 2007 Cayman. i did it exactly as Dive Dive did. One then run it then the other. 

[Chuck H]

Sounds like a plan. Thanks Mark

Do any of you by chance have the filter numbers you used? The filters I'm removing are a Napa #3783 Primary(w/plastic viewing bowl) and a Wix #533408 Secondary(w/sensor wire).

[Ray Davis]

11 hours ago, Dive Dive said:

I have the same engine in my 07 Cayman XL.  I did the primary and then cycled the key then started it to make sure it was good to go.  After that I did the secondary with the same routine.     I can’t say it’s necessarily the proper way but it worked well for me.  

I think Dive Dive has what is generally regarded as the best method.  Not that you can't do both together but if you run into a problem you will have a better idea which filter to check out.   I like to do my primary filter and hear it run before proceeding to the secondary filter.

[Dr4Film]

If you fill each filter with fresh diesel prior to installing just like what the big rig service shops do, the engine will fire right up providing you didn't mess up the job by leaving out or missing an O-ring someplace or getting it screwed on correctly.

[Chuck H]

Do any of you with the 5.9ISB 300 by chance have the filter numbers you used? The filters I'm removing are a Napa #3783 Primary(w/plastic viewing bowl) and a Wix #533408 Secondary(w/sensor wire).

[ktloah]

Fill each filter with diesel and your good to go

[Chuck H]

Well after spending half the day looking for somebody who had the correct filters I changed engine fuel filters and genny filters. On to the next (air dryer) filter. Thanks to you all for the advice. 

[Tom Cherry]

17 minutes ago, Chuck H said:

Well after spending half the day looking for somebody who had the correct filters I changed engine fuel filters and genny filters. On to the next (air dryer) filter. Thanks to you all for the advice. 

I order mine, Fleetguard, from Amazon or Filter Barn.  Use soap solution on the Wabco dryer.  They have two different valves.  One on front…one on back,  mine were leaking….minor, but blowing bubbles.  Just a good thing to do after changing the filter…check it for leaks also. 

[Chuck H]

I thought I had read something either on this site or irv2 that it was recommended to change the whole housing out when it comes to the Air Dryer filter. I thought it had something to do with possibly alot of junk that could drop into the housing when swapping the filter out. Your thoughts? Thank you Tom for the informative advice.

[Frank McElroy]

One piece of advice - do not tighten the air dryer filter any tighter than the recommended amount shown on the filter.

I put mine on just a bit tighter and it took a ten foot bar on the end of the socket wrench connected to the metal filter strap to get the filter off.  I was using so much force that I figured either the filter would come off or the filter housing mounting base would break off the frame rail.  Luckily for me, the filter came off. 

So about ten years ago, lesson was learned - don't tighten past recommended amount shown on the filter.

[Chuck H]

Advice taken! Thanks Frank

[Frank McElroy]

Yep, I had two hands on the ten foot bar and both feet on the drive axle tires to get enough force to turn that overtightened air drier filter. 

Years ago we had a member called Mikee who often posted on our old Monacoers group Yahoo site.  I consulted with him offline. He told me that in his shop it was not uncommon for filters to be overtightened. 

His suggestion was a ten foot bar on the metal filter socket ratchet with extensions to get you well below the frame rails.  And yes, it worked.  His comment was that it will either turn the filter or break the housing.  But he said that he never saw a housing break. 

Yep, he was right.  My filter came off. 

So many years ago I learned an important lesson.  I'll never overtighten any filter!

 

[Tom Cherry]

7 hours ago, Chuck H said:

I thought I had read something either on this site or irv2 that it was recommended to change the whole housing out when it comes to the Air Dryer filter. I thought it had something to do with possibly alot of junk that could drop into the housing when swapping the filter out. Your thoughts? Thank you Tom for the informative advice.

Not from me.  But there is no need to put a new filter on a leaking Wabco.  The new one comes with one.  The valve kits many years ago were close or maybe more than half the price of a new unit, with a filter.  Then there was the labor.  If you paid to have the filter rebuilt, the labor to get it on and off was fixed.  I had mine swapped out a few years ago.  The rebuild kits were almost $100 (memory) and I paid $275 for a new one,  I would have had, with the labor to tear it down, once off, almost the same cost as a new one.

Now, from what I read, you “could, maybe” rebuild it in place. But where mine was located, it would have been a nightmare.

[Chuck H]

Good to know. Hopefully I won't need that 10' cheater bar. 

[RBRODDER]

On 9/8/2022 at 9:46 PM, Chuck H said:

Well after spending half the day looking for somebody who had the correct filters I changed engine fuel filters and genny filters. On to the next (air dryer) filter. Thanks to you all for the advice. 

Chuck, 

I didn't see where anyone responded to fuel filter p/n's. I have a 300 isb as well and the PO installed aftermarket filters. My Manual calls out for two 10 micron filters,  S3201P for the primary and a FS1022 for the secondary. The original primary filter is supposed to have a plastic sediment/water bowl on it with a drain. I do not have this and other than a quick visual of sediment/water, I don't see the need for a plastic bowl that could be broken by road debris. In researching the filters,  the S3201P is a 30 micron filter.?  I opted to get the fleetgard FS19596 fo my secondary filter as it has a 7 micron rating. So which filter did you get to replace your primary filter. 

Thanks Rich 

 

 

[Dr4Film]

Those two filters, the Racor S3201P for the primary and a Fleetguard FS1022 for the secondary, are exactly what came on my 02 Cummins ISC-350HP engine. Never had any problems with road debris damaging the primary filter bowl and it is still original as it gets moved from the old filter to the new filter.

[Chuck H]

Perfect! Thanks Richard 

[Chuck H]

I ended up getting for the Primary a Napa #3783 and for the Secondary a Baldwin 1271. I couldn't find any of the Fleetguard filters locally. So I opted for the cross reference filters which is what the PO did as well. Thanks for your reply!