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Anyone know where to get a plumbing blueprint for 1999 Monaco la palma 32s


Burgboy
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8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Plumbing Blueprints are nonexistent for any of our coaches. I would bet the pink slip to my Dynasty that there are not two coaches of the same model and floor-plan that have identical plumbing.

You sound like Leo (no last name) in Grease….bettin’ PINKS.  LOL!  Does your Dynasty front wheels have the metal cutting lug nuts?  I LOVE ❤️ IT….

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

You sound like Leo (no last name) in Grease….bettin’ PINKS.  LOL!  Does your Dynasty front wheels have the metal cutting lug nuts?  I LOVE ❤️ IT….

Not yet! But maybe someday as the drivers in this country are getting worse by the day!

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I had a soft spot in the front of my coach.  Replaced about a 4X6' area.  My coach had two layers of 5/8" particle board that does not play well with water.  On the underside there was the black plastic like barrier but considering the abuse it gets when driving no doubt in my mind it does little to protect the subfloor especially when driving in heavy rains.    My bet is that there are more coaches out there of my era that have subfloor problems. 

I had previously installed a snap an click laminate type flooring, this actually providing most of the support of the floor.  When I removed the old subfloor I could literallyh could tear most of it up with my hands.  I made sure to try and protect/save the water barrier on the bottom of the subfloor, it peeled away easily.  I figured out where I had good flooring and used a circular saw set at a depth just shy of cutting all the way through the subfloor to try and save the water barrier, which in the end was still pretty much in tact.

I ended up using a piece of 3/4" treated plywood as my first layer, but I did go ahead and paint it with and exterior primer after test fitting.  Before I set the piece I used liberal amounts of liquid nail and spread it with a putty knife.  Put the piece in place and put some screws to secure it in place and then quickly went underneath and used a paint roller to push the water barrier against the plywood with liquid nail on it.  It seemed to adhere pretty good.   As a last effort to try and provide more protection I bought several cans of the "Flexseal" and liberally sprayed the area where the new plywood was along with other areas.  

To make up the thickness for my last layer I actually had a piece of exterior siding ~3/8" thick.  This is a product that Lowes sold and supposedly had a 50 year warranty and is very dense/hard.  It came primed on one side and when I was done the two layers mated to the original floor nicely. 

I then installed all new Pergo LVP flooring that I bought from Lowes.  This was the best they sold as far as durability and waterproof.  A snap lock type product.  I did not use any type of adhesive.  I even did the bedroom, completely removing the bed box and doing and rear slide along with the engine hatch cover.   I also did the front slide where the coach is.  When I removed the bed box I found the infamous beaver chew on the bottom where the rollers damage the bottom of the box.  So Installed strips of metal for the rollers to run on & I also installed a couple extra pieced of wood to reinforce the bottom of the bed box.  There was only on in the center and with the ~1/4" plywood they used it was really flimsy, worded good, I can now actually kneel on the bottom to work on the slide motor etc. 

No more carpet except in the closet.  I spent right at $1650 to do the project.  Last year I had finished my garage/work shop so it was nice to be able to have the rig parked in a controlled environment plus have easy access to all my wood working equipment. 

Floor damage.jpg

Floor Prepped.jpg

Floor first part in.jpg

Floor final subfloor piece.jpg

Floor front almost done.jpg

Floor Bedroom bed box.jpg

Floor engine hatch with step trim.jpg

Floor Step light lite.jpg

Floor bed frame bottom 2.jpg

Floor bed box bottom reinforce.jpg

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7 hours ago, Burgboy said:

Thanks for the reply, how should i go about finding the source of the leak? Would it be at the center of the rot?

Are you sure it is a pex piping leak.  Where is pex run in relation to the rotted floor.  If you pressurize the lines using the pump does the pump cycle after a long period of time?   If you have a way to plumb in a pressure gauge to monitor it won't take long to see it go down if there is a leak.  You could also try and pressurize the system with air, this is what they do on new construction, has to hold a charge for 24 hours, air will leak down faster.   If you do have a leak with air use soapy water to spray down the piping near where you think the leak is.   Back ~13 years ago on a trip I noticed that my pump started to cycle, initially very slow, maybe once an hour, then got progressively worse and ultimately found the water heater had a pin hole leak at a welded seam.

But other sources could be your ice maker water line.  I've had mine rupture, just a pin hole leak but enough to cause a problem if not fixed.  Also check the water solenoid valve, it could leak.  This can happen if it was not winterized properly. 

 

 

 

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Do you have the Norcold 1200 with ice maker? That’s your culprit. Undo the air intake grill under the fridge and you’ll find the shutoff valve there, along with a bunch of mold, probably. That’s what happened to our LaPalma. Same thing with the toilet, lots of rot, because previous owner never bothered to replace the wax ring. Also, unplug the ice maker, once you shut off the water to it. It’s a useless POS and was notorious for not working properly.

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3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Are you sure it is a pex piping leak.  Where is pex run in relation to the rotted floor.  If you pressurize the lines using the pump does the pump cycle after a long period of time?   If you have a way to plumb in a pressure gauge to monitor it won't take long to see it go down if there is a leak.  You could also try and pressurize the system with air, this is what they do on new construction, has to hold a charge for 24 hours, air will leak down faster.   If you do have a leak with air use soapy water to spray down the piping near where you think the leak is.   Back ~13 years ago on a trip I noticed that my pump started to cycle, initially very slow, maybe once an hour, then got progressively worse and ultimately found the water heater had a pin hole leak at a welded seam.

But other sources could be your ice maker water line.  I've had mine rupture, just a pin hole leak but enough to cause a problem if not fixed.  Also check the water solenoid valve, it could leak.  This can happen if it was not winterized properly. 

 

Im not sure if it is pex pipe. Where would you pressurize the system from? One of the sinks?

 

 

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1 minute ago, FLynes said:

Do you have the Norcold 1200 with ice maker? That’s your culprit. Undo the air intake grill under the fridge and you’ll find the shutoff valve there, along with a bunch of mold, probably. That’s what happened to our LaPalma. Same thing with the toilet, lots of rot, because previous owner never bothered to replace the wax ring. Also, unplug the ice maker, once you shut off the water to it. It’s a useless POS and was notorious for not working properly.

I have an aftermarket dometic without ice maker

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17 minutes ago, Burgboy said:

 

signal-2022-09-11-07-16-36-218.jpg

I have an aftermarket dometic without ice maker

Looks like you have a sink in your slide, it might be the sink drain leaking.  On my coach they used a flexible drain hose that looped up and rolls back and forth as you use the slide.  This is a known problem.   The water lines do the same thing and could had a hole worn in it but you would hear your pump running if it was water line.

My guess is sink drain line.

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18 minutes ago, Burgboy said:

 

signal-2022-09-11-07-16-36-218.jpg

I have an aftermarket dometic without ice maker

Our LaPalma layout is different…do you have an air intake grill under the fridge? The Norcold 1200 was an option for our rigs…maybe it had one originally?

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12 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Looks like you have a sink in your slide, it might be the sink drain leaking.  On my coach they used a flexible drain hose that looped up and rolls back and forth as you use the slide.  This is a known problem.   The water lines do the same thing and could had a hole worn in it but you would hear your pump running if it was water line.

My guess is sink drain line.

I do hear my pump running every 5 minutes if i leave it on

13 minutes ago, FLynes said:

Our LaPalma layout is different…do you have an air intake grill under the fridge? The Norcold 1200 was an option for our rigs…maybe it had one originally?

There is space under my fridge 

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9 minutes ago, Burgboy said:

I do hear my pump running every 5 minutes if i leave it on

There is space under my fridge 

Undo the screws to that grille under the fridge (it’s the air intake for the furnace, btw) and you’re going to find lots of ugliness…ours had different colored molds growing.

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4 hours ago, FLynes said:

Our LaPalma layout is different…do you have an air intake grill under the fridge? The Norcold 1200 was an option for our rigs…maybe it had one originally?

Heres inside of my slide.... and the underside of the fridge it looks like the rot is in front of the fridge and not from the slide. Directly under the fridge only has a little bit of rot

Are the pipes literally under the floor? Or should they be visible behind the walls

20220911_120304.jpg

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Edited by Burgboy
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If the pump is cycling every 5 minutes it is likely you have a leak. 

Do you have a Manoblock type system where you can turn off different cold/hot water lines, if so turn off the water going to the kitchen.

If not you'll have to hunt the leak.  Do you have an icemaker?  As previously stated this line has caused me problems.   Do you anyway to turn off the icemaker line, I have a valve where mine originates.   

 

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Mine comes up behind the refrigerator and can be accessed by removing the outside vent cover. 

The ice maker line starts under my kitchen sink, plumbing into the cold water that is filtered.  It then goes down into the basement, across the ceiling in the basement, and then back up under the refrigerator. 

Yours could be routed pretty much anywhere. just look for a clear plastic 1/4" line.   Chances are there is some sort of shutoff type valve, mine has a small brass fitting with T handle. 

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Looks like your ice maker is not hooked up.  There is a copper line on the right with a female garden hose type connector.  I believe this is where the water solenoid valve would have been, I see a couple wires terminated laying below it, these might have gone to the solenoid valve. 

You might check to see if there is a line feeding from below.  Leak has got to be somewhere and with you water pump cycling every 5 minutes that pretty much confirms it.

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There is a black loom hanging down behind the fridge, I believe this is the end that would have connected to the water solenoid valve that has been removed. 

How long have you owned this coach? 

Did you remove the water solenoid valve?

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23 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

There is a black loom hanging down behind the fridge, I believe this is the end that would have connected to the water solenoid valve that has been removed. 

How long have you owned this coach? 

Did you remove the water solenoid valve?

6 months

 

No I wasnt aware of it

Just now, Burgboy said:

6 months

 

No I wasnt aware of it

That is the cooling fin drainage loom as you can see its not split

20220911_144623.jpg

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OK,

Can you feel if the floor is still wet??  The water damage could be old as far was when it got wet, unfortunately this type of flooring will not dry out but basically disintegrate.   You can repair it, just takes time and $$.

But you need to find out why the water pump is cycling, look in all the basement compartments and see if you can find any signs of dampness or water.  If the pump is cycling it's going somewhere. 

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