Joe Lee Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 Hello Monaco Family! I have been on the road for about a month and I was ready to move and I saw my living room slide won’t fully retract. I have a 02 Windsor and tried to retract with 2 separate approaches: 1) With full air as per procedure 2) With HWH system showing the coach as level. Also, the bolts on the shaft aren’t broken and the motor seems fine. I have search the Forum for help and YouTube. Sorry to need to ask, but had anyone faced this? Thanks! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 Additional Update: the forward side of the slide extends out from the coach 32.5 inches at the lowest point of the slide. The rear side of the slide extends out just 32 inches at the lowest point of the slide. Is there an adjustment to be made? I have owned this coach for 5 months. Used it heavily with the slides being exercised almost every day. No issues until today. I did hear a sound today that made me stop and go outside to look. I still haven’t found anything at looks out of place and I haven’t found any foreign material that could cause a jam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Is this the drivers side front slide? The slide out lock may be jammed. With the slide extended see if you can push outward on the slide lock stainless lever by hand. If not, you may have to lube it until free. Edited June 21, 2023 by vito.a 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Dr4Film Posted June 21, 2023 Solution Share Posted June 21, 2023 You may have had the rail jump a cog wheel tooth, and that may have been the sound you heard. If so then you will have to jack up the rear end of the slide high enough to lift the rail off of the cog wheel, then pry the slide out the half inch you are missing on that end. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 Thanks Guys! I will check both ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 25 minutes ago, Dr4Film said: You may have had the rail jump a cog wheel tooth, and that may have been the sound you heard. If so then you will have to jack up the rear end of the slide high enough to lift the rail off of the cog wheel, then pry the slide out the half inch you are missing on that end. word of caution. Many of us have jacked up slides to install the plates and such. If you have NOT done that, then you will need a small bottle hydraulic jack or a car/truck jack that has a center lead screw....when you turn it clockwise...it raises and vice versa. BE CAREFUL. I would personally check the lock first. There is a specially formulated slide lubricant....but garage door lube or silicone works or will be a good substitute and you can order the real McCoy from Amazon. Run the slide in and out several time...lube as needed. check your dimensions...that was a great move....and see if it changes. IF NOT, then maybe the motor did JUMP a cog. To raise the slide properly you will need a 2X4 and maybe a sheet of plywood. We make "T" posts. Measure down from the bottom of the slide... say 30" Knock off 2". SO lets say that is 28. Measure the height of the jack when lowered. Maybe 10" high. Subtract that from 28 and you get 18. Cut TWO pieces of 2X4 18" long. Laminate them together. Cut another piece say 20" long. That is the part under the slide or touches the bottom. The laminated is the leg or vertical piece. Turn the top piece so it covers the two ends and screw it in. T POLE OR JACK. Now carefully start to raise the jack until the Top of the T post touches the bottom....get it snug so it will NOT move. Closer to the body the better. Then raise it maybe 1/2". Measure from some known point. Try to PULL out the slide to get the rack over the drive gear. May or MAY NOT WORK. Do NOT exceed say an inch....that is how you jack up and then PULL OUT to get the sides back in "Time" or sychronized. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 As a first step, I tried to move the slide lock out as Vito.a suggested. They were kinda hard to move. I got them to move by hand, but the slide lock out made an impression on my hand. So, I will lube them next. Is there a best procedure for lubing these slide out locks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 2 hours ago, Joe Lee said: I have search the Forum for help and YouTube. Sorry to need to ask, but had anyone faced this? Thanks! Joe Don't be Sorry to need to ask! That's what a forum is for!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 Talin RV recommends using motor oil. I have used Tri-Flow in the past. Dump it in at the top and let it drain out the bottom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 I used motor oil and they lubed up well. But, it didn’t fix my problem. If I removed the drive rod from the gear box, then rolled the slide in the 1/2 inch I need to get the slide to move in sync, could that fix the slide being out of alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 Nope. You have to maintain drive sync between the front cog gear/rail and the rear cog gear/rail. If you try, you will discover that the holes won't line up. Plus, do NOT move your end stops especially if you have been happy with the way the slide sits when open and closed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 I had been spraying a lubrication from the top, that was the recommended approach. In 2021 I decided to remove the slide locks and take a good look at them. In my case there is one screw at the top that "holds" the slide lock in place. Once I took the screw out I used a block of wood and hammer to drive the slide lock up/off the mounting plate. The slide lock is actually held in place with a keyhole slotted holes with pins on the side of the coach, they actually came off pretty easy. After I got it out I found a bunch of small allen head screws in the back which held the black cover in place. I removed the cover and inspected, cleaned, and lubricated. I used a good spray lubrication on the pulley's, cable, and springs. Reassembled and installed back on coach. MY TAKE on lubricating from the top>>>> pretty much a waste of time. There was a piece of foam type material at the top that kept dirt etc from going into the pulley's etc. Pouring the from the top has a very slim chance of getting where it needs to be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 I’m on my way to Lowe’s/Walmart to get a bottle Jack and a 2x4. I’m planning to Jack up the forward drivers side as that is where I believe the sound/tooth jump occurred. I plan to raise the slide, then push the slide in to correct the tooth jump. Any suggestions on how much to move the slide? Do I just measure the slide until the slide is square on both forward and rear sides of the slide are the same distance to the side of the coach? And, how much do I extend the slide for this repair ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 23 minutes ago, Joe Lee said: I’m on my way to Lowe’s/Walmart to get a bottle Jack and a 2x4. I’m planning to Jack up the forward drivers side as that is where I believe the sound/tooth jump occurred. I plan to raise the slide, then push the slide in to correct the tooth jump. Any suggestions on how much to move the slide? Do I just measure the slide until the slide is square on both forward and rear sides of the slide are the same distance to the side of the coach? And, how much do I extend the slide for this repair ? I hoping @throgmartin will chime in. This is from an Engineer’s perspective and analysis. Chris is the expert. If you follow the logic of moving the slide….you have got to move it jack it up (have the slide fully extended and put your jack and T post very close to the body. The place where you want to lift and “move” is right inside the MH. Next up…I don’t know how difficult it is going to be for one person to physically “pull out” the slide once jacked up. You don’t want to hook a log chain to it and use a 4X4 to yank it. I might suggest or try to make up another “T”. This one is much lighter weight. Maybe a single 2X4 and a piece of 1X4 board. Get two C clamps and fasten it to the lower vertical side of the slide that you want to move, then put a pad or board on the sidewall of the slide and use a bottle jack and move the slide out whatever the dimension (difference) from the other side. Again if you had a helper, probably not necessary. My thoughts…. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 @Joe Lee You need to first look at the end stops on each rail (forward and rear) to determine which end needs to be jacked up and moved. Look at them when slide is fully extended and closed. Based on your photo I am stating that it should be the rear end and not the front but that is your decision. My reasoning is that the rear end came in and touched the side of the coach FIRST leaving your forward end sticking out slightly. That means that the rear end was not deployed far enough to reach the end stop when open. Also, I have been through this with my previous Windsor so many times and it was always the rear end that jumped. The only TRUE way you will know is to put your eyes on the end stops to see which end in not hitting the stop correctly. I eventually would not deploy the slide unless I had two people, one to work the switch and one to push on the rear end of the slide to "help" it move out and drop down. Then, later I installed a remote control for the large salon slide eliminating the need for two people. This helped also to watch the slide close up as sometimes that heavy slide topper aluminum cover would not roll up correctly especially after a rain storm. Plus, I had to use two people, one outside working the jack and one inside with a large long handled screwdriver or crowbar to use for moving the slide back out to the stop. I did that by prying the rail in the direction to move the slide out. Once you put eyes on it and study how the whole thing works, you will understand what I am saying. If not than I would take it to a professional to do the task. If you start moving things and adjustments without understanding how it affects the slide you will end up getting the slide all out of whack then you are really in duck soup. Remember that the slide has to go ALL the way out to the existing stops in order for the bubble gaskets on the inside of the trim on the slide to mate up with the inside of the walls. Conversely, when the slide is fully retracted the bubble gaskets on the outside flange of the slide have to mate up with the outside of the coach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Lee Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 SUCCESS! My many, many thanks to each of you for helping me out today. It was a combination of each idea that solved my problem. I tried to mark each of your comments as the ‘solution’ but the system wouldn’t allow more than one solution. In the end, I was able to get the weight off of the gears with the jack. I was able to see the gear didn’t have enough clearance to ‘jump’ a gear so I removed the cotter pin on each side of the gear. There was enough play to allow me to move the gear to the side, rotate it and reposition it. It took me a couple tries to get the timing right, but it now works! Thanks to each of you for taking time out of your day to help out someone you haven’t even met. That is truly amazing in today’s world! I’m glad to have you as friends and I hope to cross paths one day! Joe 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 26 minutes ago, Joe Lee said: SUCCESS! My many, many thanks to each of you for helping me out today. It was a combination of each idea that solved my problem. I tried to mark each of your comments as the ‘solution’ but the system wouldn’t allow more than one solution. In the end, I was able to get the weight off of the gears with the jack. I was able to see the gear didn’t have enough clearance to ‘jump’ a gear so I removed the cotter pin on each side of the gear. There was enough play to allow me to move the gear to the side, rotate it and reposition it. It took me a couple tries to get the timing right, but it now works! Thanks to each of you for taking time out of your day to help out someone you haven’t even met. That is truly amazing in today’s world! I’m glad to have you as friends and I hope to cross paths one day! Joe Wonderful. All that counts is that it is fixed and you learned about needing to lubricate and you did it the right way….and I did have a concern about being able to manhandle the slide by yourself. Thanks for giving me more credit than I deserve. I “unmarked” me and bestowed the honor on Richard ( @Dr4Film ). He nailed the problem and all I and others did was offer some implementation advice…. Thanks…. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 Hmm, wonder how that happened? For it to jump a tooth wouldn't it have to raise the slide enough to slip a tooth? For that to happen it would need to be jammed somewhere. I think it was IRV2 where someone had flooring installed and later had a slide jam because the installers left the scrap pieces under the slide. You can pull the rubber wiper seal down far enough to see under there, I'm referring to the bottom outside seal if you want to take a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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