Generator Stalling Out

[Dr4Film]

11 hours ago, Gene Y said:

Had forgotten that he advised me to only start the genny from the Inverter remote panel. Not sure how or why that works but I'm looking forward to trying it again when the opportunity presents itself.

@Gene Y  The reason your generator shuts down when using the dash switch is because of the AGS settings. The generator is sensing when the House Batteries have reached your Auto-Gen Shut-Off point. By using the RC7-GS to start the generator bypasses this setting.

So you have two options, if you want to use the generator for the rooftop AC's then either use the RC7-GS to start the generator OR turn off the AGS in the RC7-GS settings.

Edited July 11, 2023 by Dr4Film

[Gene Y]

12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Now that may be the best game plan yet!!!!    We're on our way,   maybe.  Gotta check with the boss.   🧐

 

 

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

At this point, @Gene Y, time for you to do some reading.  Monaco does not have the 2003 Signature owner manual online.  Next up, they don’t have the 2003 Signature sales brochure.  I did download the 2004 Signature manual.  Now way to know if yours is the sane.  This is where it really gets interesting.  The 2004 Sig came with a 12.5 KW system.  That is totally different than the 10Kw that I and maybe others thought you had….so…back to basics.  
 

What Genny do you have?  10 KW or 12.5 KW?  Verify in the manual and also on the name plate on the generator.  For the sake of NOT giving you  good or bad information, we need that. If you have the 12.5KW, then it has an alternator and all of our comparisons to the models with 10Kw units was for naught.  So we need that….otherwise folks, like me, will make assumptions or guess and that only causes you, as well as others, more confusion…..

Next up, pull your manual.  There are, in the 2004 Sig Manual, two different Inverter controls.  One of them has an option to “take full control” of the generator from the Inverter.  See the pictures below.  You need to read the sections and determine exactly what type of remote that you have.  Then, scroll through the program and write down what option or parameter is set for every function.  Keep that.

NOW….reread the section of set up again.  Ben makes a good point.  If your system is programmed for the “Inverter Remote” is king, then you need to fully understand what that means.  We rarely can find the owner’s manuals for the Xantrex/Trace older inverters, so we can’t read and help you.

I suggest you call the friend that did the setup….AFTER you read and start to understand, and ask him to coach you or help you out.

Bottom line, we have more information and knowledge of the Magnum inverter systems.  The folks that chimed in about the same symptoms on the newer Dynasty and such have a different inverter.  The Magnum inverter and Remote are STAND ALONE.  The factory wired buttons for operating the Generator work regardless of where the generator was started.  The Magnum AGS is just like a parallel startup.  There is no “turning over all the generator control” to the inverter.  Going out on a limb….and totally without, now, enough information….

IF there is an issue with your Remote….I’m lost.  If I repeat what you told us…

Generator runs fine in camp.  What we do NOT KNOW is how the remote works.

It appears from what you said earlier that NOT having the generator ON and then cranking the engine resolved that.  So, if you have the 10KW, that makes sense. BUT, if you have the 12.5 KW….NOPE….as it has, we are told, an alternator.  My advice.  Don’t run the Generator and then crank the engine.

Next up is the “opps….forgot and started it from the controls” and friend said to use the Inverter.  That one is a mystery to me as that is a feature and controls that few have and we know how to help troubleshoot the Magnum AGS….and Magnum Inverter.  I can’t tell you with 100% confidence that we have never seen one of the older Magnum AGS module act up and shut down a Generator, but in 14 years, I don’t recall reading about one….

As to the first exchanges…..I am of the opinion that probably you do NOT have any Generator issues….therefore tracking down a non existent mechanical issue was not advised. 

After you get more information and learn and….if you have the “take total control” remote, I would disable that.  Then stsrt anduse the generator.  Then, if I needed the AGS, i would set the remote for that function only and not try to “do it all from there”…

Let us know what you learn and find out….

 

Hard to argue with that label.  I’m sure you have looked at the model label as well.  Onan labels both of them as QD 10000.  Monaco left out my genny manual.  I’ve been going by the SN On the build sheet.  I guess when I pull it out later in the summer, l’ll check.

Thanks

Thought I had put in my original post that the genny is 12500k. Seems kind of crazy that the inverter remote is set up so that once you give it control of the generator starting and stopping functions you can no longer use any of the other switches to control the system, but I'm pretty sure that's the way it functions. Anyway it's functioning as intended and I will get into the way it is set up and change it to a setup that works for me.

Thanks to all of you for your help!

[96 EVO]

The Magnum system that came in later models isn't like that.

You just press AGS on the remote and the first thing that appears is 'Enable / disable'.

Enter disable and your back in control!

[Dr4Film]

@Gene YGood to know now that you have a 12.5K generator. It would also help to know what Inverter brand and model you have plus the brand and model of the Inverter Remote.

Edited July 12, 2023 by Dr4Film

[Tom Cherry]

9 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

The Magnum system that came in later models isn't like that.

You just press AGS on the remote and the first thing that appears is 'Enable / disable'.

Enter disable and your back in control!

His is totally different.  He can turn on or enable the remote to be the daddy rabbit and that “supposedly” took control or disabled the other switches. …..download a 2004 Sig owners manual… fascinating reading.

When the Magnum AGS is enabled, the other 3 Genny switches are still functional.  So we can start the genny at any time or if the AGS has started it, we can shut it down.

His Sig, i think, was set to control it….I read the explanation.  

As best I could understand, when the “enable generator control” was selected in the setup, that then selected the “AGS” run time if you started the Genny from one of the other switches.  But if you started it from the inverter remote, then it will run, regardless off the AGS time on.  Thats about as deep as I went when I delved into his manual  or actually a 2004.

9 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

@Gene YGood to know now that you have a 12.5K generator. It would also help to know what Inverter brand and model you have plus the brand and model of the Inverter Remote.

He has the more sophisticated “full control” Xantrex inverter remote.  Download a 2004 Sig owners manual and there are two in the House electrical section.  Go to the second one.  Picture there and if you read the setup, there is a parameter, in a menu similar to Magnum, that allows full control.  See my post to @96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Gene Y said:

 

Thought I had put in my original post that the genny is 12500k. Seems kind of crazy that the inverter remote is set up so that once you give it control of the generator starting and stopping functions you can no longer use any of the other switches to control the system, but I'm pretty sure that's the way it functions. Anyway it's functioning as intended and I will get into the way it is set up and change it to a setup that works for me.

Thanks to all of you for your help!

@Gene Y

that now makes sense.  You need to read and understand how the remote works.  That will allow you to start and stop as well as use the AGS correctly.

The only fly in the ointment is that, supposedly, the 12.5 has its own alternator.  That is supposed to supply power to the Genny, so it should not shut down if the cranking battery is low.  You need to read the manual and the explanation of exactly how the alternator runs and interacts with the cranking battery.

maybe some other Sig owners can elaborate or tell us if their genny sputters and shuts down when running and then cranking the engine.

From your comments, the shutting down when the generator is running and you are cranking should not, “in theory” have happened.  We know or have a high degree of confidence in saying that a severe drop in the chassis battery for those who crank from the chassis will kill their 10 K genny.  I would have thought that the alternator would have prevented that.  But….the question is….”were their options for configuration” of the alternator and could that have been bypassed by Monaco……

Now, personally, i would just NOT crank the engine when the generator is running and avoid the erratic shutdown.  But, being a curios cuss, I would then read the manual and if it says that should be NO shutdown, I  would get my Model and SN of the genny  and call ONAN and ask tech support.  In theory, if there is an Alternator that is supposed to recharge the cranking battery, then your chassis should be getting charged directly from the genny when running and not need the inverter charger to keep them charged.  But….who knows what electronic skulduggery that Monaco did….

IF you pursue this and talk  to ONAN….let us know 

[Gene Y]

Interesting stuff for sure. You now have me wondering whether my genny has an alternator and if so is it working. Because a lot of times when I have the generator running and go to start the engine the generator will shut down. Not every time though.

[Tom Cherry]

36 minutes ago, Gene Y said:

Interesting stuff for sure. You now have me wondering whether my genny has an alternator and if so is it working. Because a lot of times when I have the generator running and go to start the engine the generator will shut down. Not every time though.

Gene.  As folks say.  Don’t start with the Generator running.  You have the potential to damage the generator.  You are supposed to remove ALL  loads.  Let the genny idle for 3 - 5  minutes to cool down the windings.   THEN shut it down.  I would follow that and not risk a large repair bill.

As to the mystery.  We or I don’t have enough info.  Yes…in theory and all that. If this really bugs you, get your genny model and SN  and call ONAN.  Since the “rapid unscheduled shutdown” occurs, don't temp fate and turn it into a RUD. (Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly) event.

MY ADVICE….and yes I am curious, but if i see a rattle snake or other pit viper, I avoid it and don’t tempt fate like I saw tourists in Bryce Canyon do and they kept crowding it and it lunged at one of them….the lady with her cellphone camera almost had a heart attack….she didn’t look like she could do a standing back jump that far….LOL

[Daryl Ammons]

On 7/12/2023 at 9:04 AM, Tom Cherry said:

@Gene Y

that now makes sense.  You need to read and understand how the remote works.  That will allow you to start and stop as well as use the AGS correctly.

The only fly in the ointment is that, supposedly, the 12.5 has its own alternator.  That is supposed to supply power to the Genny, so it should not shut down if the cranking battery is low.  You need to read the manual and the explanation of exactly how the alternator runs and interacts with the cranking battery.

maybe some other Sig owners can elaborate or tell us if their genny sputters and shuts down when running and then cranking the engine.

From your comments, the shutting down when the generator is running and you are cranking should not, “in theory” have happened.  We know or have a high degree of confidence in saying that a severe drop in the chassis battery for those who crank from the chassis will kill their 10 K genny.  I would have thought that the alternator would have prevented that.  But….the question is….”were their options for configuration” of the alternator and could that have been bypassed by Monaco……

Now, personally, i would just NOT crank the engine when the generator is running and avoid the erratic shutdown.  But, being a curios cuss, I would then read the manual and if it says that should be NO shutdown, I  would get my Model and SN of the genny  and call ONAN and ask tech support.  In theory, if there is an Alternator that is supposed to recharge the cranking battery, then your chassis should be getting charged directly from the genny when running and not need the inverter charger to keep them charged.  But….who knows what electronic skulduggery that Monaco did….

IF you pursue this and talk  to ONAN….let us know 

Tom my 2008 Executive has just started doing that on my last trip but my starter sounds like it struggles to turn the engine at first.  I had read on someone else’s post that on some coaches Monaco did not put a large enough wire from the starter to the battery.  I was wondering if maybe the starter is dying or the cable is causing more amperage to be needed to turn the engine and causing the gen to shut down.  I have not checked yet to see if my gen starts from the house or chassis batteries but I suspect it is from the chassis by it shutting down when I crank the main engine.  For now I will avoid but I definitely want to find out what is causing it.  

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Daryl Ammons said:

Tom my 2008 Executive has just started doing that on my last trip but my starter sounds like it struggles to turn the engine at first.  I had read on someone else’s post that on some coaches Monaco did not put a large enough wire from the starter to the battery.  I was wondering if maybe the starter is dying or the cable is causing more amperage to be needed to turn the engine and causing the gen to shut down.  I have not checked yet to see if my gen starts from the house or chassis batteries but I suspect it is from the chassis by it shutting down when I crank the main engine.  For now I will avoid but I definitely want to find out what is causing it.  

Personally, you may be chasing a ghost.  Frank M & I talked about this and he believes that the air intake heaters are the issue as they suck up all the current and that drops (Ohm’s Law) the voltage.  Bingo…the PCB on the Generator either senses low voltage and reacts or the low voltage causes the board to not function properly and it shuts down.  You have, per the sales brochure, the QD10000.  That generator is also known to have a PCB that is more susceptible to failures, usually moisture, but many mobile techs carry a new as well as rebuilt one in their service trucks.

I would reduce or remove all the load from the generator.  Let it run for 3 minutes, minimum to cool down.  Shut it off.  Start the engine.  Let the air intake heaters cycle and stabilize.  Watch your voltage on the gauges or digital display, if you see it there or the Alladin.  Let it climb back up to 13.8/14.0…..THEN start the engine.  

I’m skeptical of chasing a cabling issue.  Monaco ran  4/0 cable.  Now, Frank did find an issue with his ISL. It was extremely erratic and he decide that there was a better way….but due to the location, it was almost impossible to “fix” like he thought it should be.  Almost impossible is to Frank, like waving a red cape in El Toro’s face.  He figured out how and set his mind to fix it “his way”.  I can’t recall, but he could have run a second cable and solved it, but it was a connection or something fixable.  Rarely ever happened, but it bugged him.  i THINK my ISL was cabled differently and he had run some tests and looked at the cabling and suspected a mis wiring or a print error…it eludes my brain for more details….plus, He is engrossed in a project.  PLUS….you have the ISX, so your cabling may be correct or like mine and you, again, may be on a fake Ghost Busters drill.

I personally would not risk damaging the Generator and follow the recommendations and experiences of others. Meanwhile, I would “monitor” the chassis batteries.  If they pass the 5 - 10 minute hot soak after shutdown and crank instantly without that breif pregnant pause or OMG panic, then things are fine.

Enjoy your new rig and observe and treat the generator with proper respect and see what happens.  

PS….load up, ONE AC….at a time, your generator and then run it for a few hours traveling.  Your brushes may need cleaning. You can’t tell if they are clean, but doing that will take care of that. Do this once or twice a year as PM….your generator will run better and you have the right voltage or maybe “hertz”.  

[96 EVO]

5 hours ago, Daryl Ammons said:

Tom my 2008 Executive has just started doing that on my last trip but my starter sounds like it struggles to turn the engine at first.  I had read on someone else’s post that on some coaches Monaco did not put a large enough wire from the starter to the battery.  I was wondering if maybe the starter is dying or the cable is causing more amperage to be needed to turn the engine and causing the gen to shut down.  I have not checked yet to see if my gen starts from the house or chassis batteries but I suspect it is from the chassis by it shutting down when I crank the main engine.  For now I will avoid but I definitely want to find out what is causing it.  

Daryl, after a quick Google search on this issue, it seems about 9 times out of 10, this is occurring on a Monaco built coach! Whether they used the chassis bank to power the gen more often than other manufacturer's, I don't know!

The two most common fixes seem to be, fresh chassis batteries, and others did well by holding the battery boost switch while turning over the Cummins.

One owner swears by shutting off battery charging on his inverter panel before starting the Cummins works every time  for him.

Like I stated earlier in the thread, I've never had this issue, and I usually shut down and restart my engine with the generator chugging away, several times a trip!

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Daryl, after a quick Google search on this issue, it seems about 9 times out of 10, this is occurring on a Monaco built coach! Whether they used the chassis bank to power the gen more often than other manufacturer's, I don't know!

The two most common fixes seem to be, fresh chassis batteries, and others did well by holding the battery boost switch while turning over the Cummins.

One owner swears by shutting off battery charging on his inverter panel before starting the Cummins works every time  for him.

Like I stated earlier in the thread, I've never had this issue, and I usually shut down and restart my engine with the generator chugging away, several times a trip!

No Doubt.  That’s what the other sites are saying….same thing.  NOW, if one has a marginal Chassis battery (cranks the Genny), of course it will be worse as the voltage will be lower…

As to the “fix”.  Yes, I thought about holding in the Boost.  That then, if you do it long enough for the heaters to cycle off and then the alternator starts to catch back up, it could exceed the “Full Current” ON TIME of the Intellitec Big Boy.  One should recall that pitted contacts are the number one complaint and in many cases, with the Intellitec Big Boy, that is the issue.  So, why run the risk of a full 12 VDC ON time on the Big Boy and burn out the coil as well? Almost like trading a pain in one arm to one in the other….and that arm was already weaker.

Starting the Engine with insufficient voltage to prevent a running genny from shutting down and potentially damaging the $750 (rebuilt) to $1500 (new) board seems like a losing proposition when it ain’t necessary.  These were the prices that were quoted to me by a member, offline, that needed a new 10K board….that was a few years ago….so, maybe less or higher….

Daryl, you remember the issues with the Big Boy on your previous MH and the “fix” which was sort of “out there”?  
 

[Dr4Film]

6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Daryl, you remember the issues with the Big Boy on your previous MH and the “fix” which was sort of “out there”?

The "fix" is remove the Big Boy then install the Blue Seas ML-ACR device which is a LOT smarter and built to handle the amps that are customarily seen during normal use.

Plus, it allows you to ignore other devices that are no longer needed.

[Guest Ray Davis]

Yrs ago on the old Yahoo group, I recall several owners with a large gen, probably 12.5k maybe 10k too, anyway adding a battery up front at the gen.  This was done primarily to solve non/slow starting issues of the gen, but these issues are so closely related and might even be the same issue, that being long small cables and voltage drop.

If the gen has its own alternator the start cables could be isolated from the other batteries.  Or to simplify the addition, the extra batt could be paralleled but should be close to the gen

[96 EVO]

Ray, I would agree but, in these cases, the generator is already running, and no longer needs plenty of amps running thru a long cable to turn over the gen engine.

I do believe a dedicated gen battery mounted up front would be ideal though!

Edited July 15, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

9 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Yrs ago on the old Yahoo group, I recall several owners with a large gen, probably 12.5k maybe 10k too, anyway adding a battery up front at the gen.  This was done primarily to solve non/slow starting issues of the gen, but these issues are so closely related and might even be the same issue, that being long small cables and voltage drop.

If the gen has its own alternator the start cables could be isolated from the other batteries.  Or to simplify the addition, the extra batt could be paralleled but should be close to the gen

YES…batteries were added due to Genny starting.  We have a report of a 12.5 with, presumably an alternator, but it shuts down.  All sorts of fixes…like converting from the Intellitec Big Boy to the Blue Seas….on a Dynasty.  

YES….if the expensive control board that drives the Big Boy goes south.  But, if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it.

Along the same lines, if you know that you will kill your generator based on logic and the circuits….and that repeatedly doing that, which ain’t necessary, can damage the generator….why continue to do that.   If it ain’t broke…don’t break if…or really don't  go out of your way to break it…. LOL

[Guest Ray Davis]

Starting the gen is primarily the issue I remember too.  But if I could go back to those old Yahoo files I think some of those owners complained about this current complaint too, not just starting the gen. I recall Bill D discussing the volts dropping & that's why the gen dies.  IIRCC the alternator inside the gen was not charging anything unless there was a dedicated battery.

Ben,  I've never had the issue either so I'm really just theorizing.  I agree, a dedicated batt will cure all of these ills

I also agree the Blue Seas ML-ACR is the way to go, that's what I have and recommend to others.

 

[96 EVO]

One note I found in the 10K Quiet Diesel owners manual......

The HDKCA & HDKCB models didn't have a alternator.

The HDKCC & HDKCD models, do have an alternator!

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

One note I found in the 10K Quiet Diesel owners manual......

The HDKCA & HDKCB models didn't have a alternator.

The HDKCC & HDKCD models, do have an alternator!

So, your genny, a HDKCA, doesn't have an alternator.  The consensus was that the 12.5’s did….but we don’t know Gene’s model.  All the reports here from Dynasty owners, maybe others..was that if they left it running….cranked…..sometimes shut down. ….. and they quit doing that and no issues with the genny cutting off any other time and they “cranked” reasonably OK.  Cause and effect….do it consistently at your own risk…

[96 EVO]

1 minute ago, Tom Cherry said:

So, your genny, a HDKCA, doesn't have an alternator.   Cause and effect….do it consistently at your own risk…

Yep!

If I hadn't read this thread, I never would have known there was any risk 😄!

[Ivan K]

Just a little tidbit,  earlier I looked at my HDCAB alternator implementation. It is a 20A regulated unit, assumably calculated to be enough to be self-sufficient while running the controller, rotor, fuel pump and actuator and has a direct connection to exterior battery post so any excess current could go to the batteries. I have not put clamp meter on, to confirm how much it could be, obviously would depend on battery state too. I suppose the long cable resistance, however minor, somewhat helps keep voltage from some major drop while starting the engine and even my 7+ years old batteries were still enough to not draw it down to a stop. Just mentioning it if someone was curious as I was...

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Just a little tidbit,  earlier I looked at my HDCAB alternator implementation. It is a 20A regulated unit, assumably calculated to be enough to be self-sufficient while running the controller, rotor, fuel pump and actuator and has a direct connection to exterior battery post so any excess current could go to the batteries. I have not put clamp meter on, to confirm how much it could be, obviously would depend on battery state too. I suppose the long cable resistance, however minor, somewhat helps keep voltage from some major drop while starting the engine and even my 7+ years old batteries were still enough to not draw it down to a stop. Just mentioning it if someone was curious as I was...

All we know is that Gene’s 2003 has a 12.5, based on his posts.  He says he occasionally gets that “OMG” it ain’t gonna crank hesitation, not all the time, and that is usually, in most cases, when the engine has been heat soaked.  I can’t speak for all the potential ONAN codes, but there doesn’t seem to be one for “low voltage” on PCB.  Many others here….with Dynasties and 10 KW report the same phenomenon…..but not every time…and Ben says elsewhere, same reports.  SO…the only logical, to me, conclusion is that the air intake heaters are sucking up the current from the alternator.  I KNOW from my observations that the chassis voltage is barely holding 12 VDC when they are on….and all Dynasties have 200 A LN where I only have a 160 A.  That has been consistent with 3 sets of batteries.  The first were the lighter 750 CCA…second 2 sets were the 950’s.  It is almost like….or it is logical….air intake toasters turn off, voltage jumps to 13.8-14.0.  That’s  a hard observed condition.

OK…next up is I don’t crank off Chassis.  I thought, and may be wrong….that Ben rewired his to crank off Chassis.  If he didn’t, then he should not have, like I do, any issues.

Next step.  No matter how you cut it….the Onan is supposed to be unloaded and allowed time to cool down.  Book says 3 - 5 minutes…..otherwise damage can occur. NEVER EVER KILL IT WITH A FULL or partial load.  Overheats and can cause issues..which Onan says damage will be from overheating as well as the voltage regulating circuit.  SO, don’t do that.

Next up, the INEVITABLE…..but the AGS shuts it down.  Yes….that happens and Onan is a little cagey.  The other side of the coin, and I did the opposite.  If the Load is transferred, without the perfunctory 120 seconds delay, the generator will not be stable nor partially warmed up.  That drives the voltage regulator circuit bananas…..and I almost guarantee that two 15K BTU AC, at full load, will kill an 8KW if you start the genny from the front and quickly walk back and kill the 50 A breaker.  Fortunately no damage, but it went into “time out” for at least 10 minutes.  I tried to restart, WITHOUT the load and it said….”go way….I’m having a bad day”.  LOL.

Bottom line, the 10K and maybe the 12.5 KW are twins, as in they are different from mine.  When you google Onan rebuilt boards, they are almost exclusively 10 Kw and I know from offline issues that the mobile techs carry them and not the 8 kw.  So…. It MAY be a function of the tolerances on the board and a low voltage (air intakes cooking hot dogs) will impact one board/generator differently and also the amount of current sucked out of the cranking battery.

SO….as Richard and other owners said…..We don’t crank with the Genny running anymore…..never any other issues using the generator.  They say we know it will or has shut down….we don’t think it is is good for our generators.  Sounds logical to me.  This discussion seems to be like a dog chasing its tail.  If you never have the problem….drive on.  If it consistently shuts down, either keep doing and be prepared and don’t say “OMG, My generator is acting up…”.  Pay me now or pay me later….

 OR

Change your habits and accept it.  It is a quirk.  Sort of like trying to change a “quirk” that sometimes bothers me and telling my DW NOT to do that…..but that is her way and the consequences are off scale.  There is no proven or logical or measured troubleshooting.  Accept it for that, unless it bugs you and then set up a recording Voltmeter and Current transducer on the incoming 12 VDC power to the generator and let us know what conditions kill it.  You should also have the ability to record 120 vac & current (both line 1 & 2) so that if the Onan’s output gets flaky and it starts to shut down, you can rerun the trace and compare the DC to the AC.  Or maybe an oscilloscope on the Hertz?  I’ve seen these rigs at experimental labs at my university when I was on the “Power Advisory Council”…. 

 

 

[96 EVO]

If I had to shut my gen down before starting the Cummins, I'd be rewiring the opposite to what I've done! I'd be wiring it to the house bank!

Wouldn't be happy about it, as I'd have to raise my AGS sensing voltage up.

[Daryl Ammons]

21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

No Doubt.  That’s what the other sites are saying….same thing.  NOW, if one has a marginal Chassis battery (cranks the Genny), of course it will be worse as the voltage will be lower…

As to the “fix”.  Yes, I thought about holding in the Boost.  That then, if you do it long enough for the heaters to cycle off and then the alternator starts to catch back up, it could exceed the “Full Current” ON TIME of the Intellitec Big Boy.  One should recall that pitted contacts are the number one complaint and in many cases, with the Intellitec Big Boy, that is the issue.  So, why run the risk of a full 12 VDC ON time on the Big Boy and burn out the coil as well? Almost like trading a pain in one arm to one in the other….and that arm was already weaker.

Starting the Engine with insufficient voltage to prevent a running genny from shutting down and potentially damaging the $750 (rebuilt) to $1500 (new) board seems like a losing proposition when it ain’t necessary.  These were the prices that were quoted to me by a member, offline, that needed a new 10K board….that was a few years ago….so, maybe less or higher….

Daryl, you remember the issues with the Big Boy on your previous MH and the “fix” which was sort of “out there”?  
 

Just strange to me that the gen shutting down just started happening on the way home from a recent trip.  Had never happened before.  
my gen is a 12kw and the 2 cranking batteries are new (4/23) 1000CA.  I have tried using battery boost but does not make a difference.  I am not sure the big boy is working on this one either.  Gonna try to check that today.  Not having problems with chassis battery going down but it has a battery tender Hooked to it.  Guess I should have ask PO why that was needed huh.  Looks like the wiring to the BB is different than my previous MH so makes me think they may have altered it.  Maybe I will send you a picture of the RR box.  
Still wonder if the starter is dying and pulling more amps than it should?  The first turn of the engine makes you wonder if it’s gonna crank.  PO said it had always been like that and he had the starter replaced under warranty but did not change.  I read on a post that someone had replaced the starter on their ISX with a Denso starter and cured the problem.    Lots of ???????

[Dr4Film]

20 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

One note I found in the 10K Quiet Diesel owners manual......

The HDKCA & HDKCB models didn't have a alternator.

The HDKCC & HDKCD models, do have an alternator!

My 10K Generator is model 10HDCAA-11506D.

Edited July 16, 2023 by Dr4Film