Steering: 1991 Dynasty 31' is wandering - is this a TRW or Shepherd or maybe something else?

[DrewGeorge]

Hi all,

New owner of a 1991 Dynasty 31' here (Howdy!), and I've been reading up on how best to address the wandering woes of my rig and I understand I should start with the steering box.

It appears that a previous owner installed a new steering box but I can't determine which one it is, it doesn't say TRW or Sheppard on it as far as I can see and the only number on it is partially obscured, maybe 5686875?.  Also I can't find any adjustment knob (ruling out the TRW) but it doesn't look like the Sheppard pics I've seen either?

Please see the pics attached, and any feedback is appreciated!

Thank you,

Drew George

Southwest Oregon

(619) 818-3739

Edited July 13, 2023 by DrewGeorge
added 3 digits to my guess of the possible part number, and corrected spelling of Shepherd

[Tom Cherry]

Congratulations.  You have a TRW box.  The splined clamp with a locking nut is TRW.  The steering arm is the way you identify.  You can google Shepherd.  They have a PDF that lets you identify which steering sector you have, but it goes over a shaft with a tapped hole and there is a bracket or clamp or keeper that unscrews directly from the steering shaft.  Yours is clamped on….

No HELP on the model or anything else…but confident you have a TRW.  Read up on how to adjust it….not that hard….just GO EASY.  Those us that used to have to adjust play out of an 40/50/60’s car or truck with no power steering did that all the time,

[DavidL]

Diagnosis comes first.

If there is steering play in the box, then look at all joints while moving wheel back / forth to find that play.  Might be a Joint, not the box.  Since the box has evidently been replaced, that is likely not the problem.

Define wandering:  You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks?  Or RV moves with road undulations?  Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight?  Do bumps affect the issue?

The shocks look like they have been around as long as the RV...that's a wear item and good handling starts there.

Check tire pressures since that doesn't cost anything.  Ensure pressure is correct for the Axle weight as per the tire's spec chart.

 

[DrewGeorge]

5 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Congratulations.  You have a TRW box.  The splined clamp with a locking nut is TRW.  The steering arm is the way you identify.  You can google Shepherd.  They have a PDF that lets you identify which steering sector you have, but it goes over a shaft with a tapped hole and there is a bracket or clamp or keeper that unscrews directly from the steering shaft.  Yours is clamped on….

No HELP on the model or anything else…but confident you have a TRW.  Read up on how to adjust it….not that hard….just GO EASY.  Those us that used to have to adjust play out of an 40/50/60’s car or truck with no power steering did that all the time,

Thank you very much Tom, this is wonderful news that I have a TRW!  

[Tom Cherry]

4 minutes ago, DrewGeorge said:

Thank you very much Tom, this is wonderful news that I have a TRW!  

I say TWR by the shaft.  Shepherd definitely is different.  However, as you stated, this one is an earlier one.  The “double” can with one end cast and the other a press in “seal” is not consistent with what is normally seen.  Have you “felt” the other side of the pump for the adjusting “stud” and lock nut.

Go to MonacoWatts.com.  Get in touch with Mike Hughes.  He sells the Watts Link kits.  He would be the person to ask.

 

[DrewGeorge]

10 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Diagnosis comes first.

If there is steering play in the box, then look at all joints while moving wheel back / forth to find that play.  Might be a Joint, not the box.  Since the box has evidently been replaced, that is likely not the problem.

Define wandering:  You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks?  Or RV moves with road undulations?  Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight?  Do bumps affect the issue?

The shocks look like they have been around as long as the RV...that's a wear item and good handling starts there.

Check tire pressures since that doesn't cost anything.  Ensure pressure is correct for the Axle weight as per the tire's spec chart.

 

Thanks David, and I've only driven it about 300 miles so far - most of which was on the (very straight) route 5 between Portland and Eugene - but in response to your questions: 

"You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks?" - YES, I found that I had to steer towards the passing trucks in order to stay in my lane.  

"Or RV moves with road undulations?" I'm not sure I can tell given my very limited experience so far

"Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight?"  YES, there seems to be a lot of play in the steering

"Do bumps affect the issue?"  I'm not sure I can tell given my limited experience so far, but she's a handful.

Shocks: yes, they appear to be the Monroe's, I'll replace after addressing the steering box

Tire pressures: all were at 110 when I picked it up, and 115 while driving, I just doubled check that is correct for the FALKEN EcoRun RI150.

Thanks again!

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Diagnosis comes first.

If there is steering play in the box, then look at all joints while moving wheel back / forth to find that play.  Might be a Joint, not the box.  Since the box has evidently been replaced, that is likely not the problem.

Define wandering:  You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks?  Or RV moves with road undulations?  Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight?  Do bumps affect the issue?

The shocks look like they have been around as long as the RV...that's a wear item and good handling starts there.

Check tire pressures since that doesn't cost anything.  Ensure pressure is correct for the Axle weight as per the tire's spec chart.

 

some good comments.  However, shocks are not an influence on “handling”….defined as “wandering”.  Folks have pulled off the shocks and tested.  Shocks control the “oscillation” of the chassis.  Many folks have upgraded their MH to a Watts and X brace system and gone from really expensive shocks to cheap, throw aways after a few years.

You “can” stiffen up a suspension by putting on the “perfect” Monaco Bilstein sold by Source engineering.  i added the HD to the front and regulars on the rear plus their two sway bars.  That improved the cross wind impact.  But then i added the Watts and it was like day and night.  

Maybe on your Spartan chassis, but NOT on a Roadmaster…..either the lower end nor the Dynasty.  Sure rides better and feels better, but the real improvement comes from eliminating the chassis and body movement….sure a shock has a minor impact….but not much….

[Tom Cherry]

3 minutes ago, DrewGeorge said:

Thanks David, and I've only driven it about 300 miles so far - most of which was on the (very straight) route 5 between Portland and Eugene - but in response to your questions: 

"You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks?" - YES, I found that I had to steer towards the passing trucks in order to stay in my lane.  

"Or RV moves with road undulations?" I'm not sure I can tell given my very limited experience so far

"Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight?"  YES, there seems to be a lot of play in the steering

"Do bumps affect the issue?"  I'm not sure I can tell given my limited experience so far, but she's a handful.

Shocks: yes, they appear to be the Monroe's, I'll replace after addressing the steering box

Tire pressures: all were at 110 when I picked it up, and 115 while driving, I just doubled check that is correct for the FALKEN EcoRun RI150.

Thanks again!

In the olden days, some 14 years ago when I joined and then were asked to moderate….and we transitioned from a Yahoo group to our super gee whiz site….handling was the main complaint.  There were many fixes….some worked a little better, others negligible.

The Roadmaster monocoque body on a Tag handled the best.  Several folks put on steering stabilizer.  Monaco got on a stupid kick and put on Bilsteins designed for a Sherman tank.  Many went to Koni’s. Source Engineering (Ex Monaco employees) spent a lot of money and paid Billstein to “engineer” a good shock.  They had a fleet of vehicles and test (paid) drivers and owners and such.  The “we custom make shock truck) was there and the valving was refined.  That is how the Source Bilstein was developed.  There was the regular and the HD.  HD was for Camelots and down.  Regulars worked on Dynasty and up….no need for HD.  Source purchased the right’s to sell a Roadmaster sway bar that Monaco liked, but refused to buy and use.  Many folks ordered them.  That and a steering stabilizer in 2012 improved mine….from two aspects….ride comfort….not to be confused with handling (wander).

Many folks developed the “Monaco steering wheel GRIP” method.  Drive with one hand around 1:00 (or 11:00).  Steer with that. Don’t keep see sawing the wheel.  The power steering is overpowered and touchy.  Use the other hand around 4 or 5:00.  (Or opposite).  Keep that hand firm and it prevents the top hand from over steering and then need to be corrected.  I learned from a lot of old timers and retrained my brain and fine tuned my steering technique.

OK….quite a bit of improvement.  Many here and a fellow named Mike Hughes experimented with a race car chassis design.  WATTS link.  That “ties…tightens…connects…” the body to the chassis so that the sloppy design of the  Roadmaster is reduced or maybe eliminated.  Some tried some rear chassis links to keep the body from impacting the handling.  

I added the Watts in 2018.  NIGHT and DAY improvement.  i had not cleared a member’s driveway before i called him.  He laughed….told you so.  I drove on a 8,500 trip from NC to southern CA, up the coast to Washington and across the Midwest to ND and south to Elkhart.  I had been on some of those roads BEFORE my Source upgrades (had the stabilizer).  The Source items was like halving the wander.  i call it Driver Fatigue.  Then after adding the Watts….maybe a four fold improvement.  I opted NOT to cross brace….that would probably added a little, but i was taking curves and exits faster than I should….so I was happy with my improvement.  At least one or perhaps another member had the Source goodies and added the Watts for the same dramatic improvement…..

My TRW box at upper 40’s or low 50’s required on a minor, almost imperceptible tweak by one of expert members….so, all the improvements came from the upgrades. .  The stabilizer has four times the impact to reduce driver fatigue with the Watts. Now I have the Blue Ox and it IS adjustable …. . I now drive properly with two hands and no see sawing.  My wife even commented that I was wandering less….

That’s the history. Search WATTS in the box and select TOPICS.  Lots written…

Good luck….

[DavidL]

Ok, next step is (while the vehicle is on the ground on the tires) have someone move the wheel back / forth while someone else observes where the slack is.

This involves putting a hand on the greasy joint and feeling for play.  And certainly visually inspecting to see what lags in the Left / Right movement.

Ensure you instruct the person at the wheel to just go to the right until he /she feels resistance, and then back to the Left the same amount.  This is with motor off.

Tom, note, I asked for a definition of "Wander" many / most don't really understand the technical impact of that term.  So best that they explain what they see / feel under what conditions.  Most misdiagnosis is due to improper problem statement.  (patent 6609050b2) And it doesn't make any difference on the chassis.

Since we can't see play on a static picture, but can see OEM grade shocks on a rig that has miles and time, then the shocks are suspect and hugely impactful on overall handling (including "Wander" if the vehicle is skipping).  High centered vehicles that "jostle about" (due to floating shocks) can "feel" like "Wander" even if the tires are going dead true down the road.

16 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

In the olden days, some 14 years ago when I joined and then were asked to moderate….and we transitioned from a Yahoo group to our super gee whiz site….handling was the main complaint.  There were many fixes….some worked a little better, others negligible.

The Roadmaster monocoque body on a Tag handled the best.  Several folks put on steering stabilizer.  Monaco got on a stupid kick and put on Bilsteins designed for a Sherman tank.  Many went to Koni’s. Source Engineering (Ex Monaco employees) spent a lot of money and paid Billstein to “engineer” a good shock.  They had a fleet of vehicles and test (paid) drivers and owners and such.  The “we custom make shock truck) was there and the valving was refined.  That is how the Source Bilstein was developed.  There was the regular and the HD.  HD was for Camelots and down.  Regulars worked on Dynasty and up….no need for HD.  Source purchased the right’s to sell a Roadmaster sway bar that Monaco liked, but refused to buy and use.  Many folks ordered them.  That and a steering stabilizer in 2012 improved mine….from two aspects….ride comfort….not to be confused with handling (wander).

Many folks developed the “Monaco steering wheel GRIP” method.  Drive with one hand around 1:00 (or 11:00).  Steer with that. Don’t keep see sawing the wheel.  The power steering is overpowered and touchy.  Use the other hand around 4 or 5:00.  (Or opposite).  Keep that hand firm and it prevents the top hand from over steering and then need to be corrected.  I learned from a lot of old timers and retrained my brain and fine tuned my steering technique.

OK….quite a bit of improvement.  Many here and a fellow named Mike Hughes experimented with a race car chassis design.  WATTS link.  That “ties…tightens…connects…” the body to the chassis so that the sloppy design of the  Roadmaster is reduced or maybe eliminated.  Some tried some rear chassis links to keep the body from impacting the handling.  

I added the Watts in 2018.  NIGHT and DAY improvement.  i had not cleared a member’s driveway before i called him.  He laughed….told you so.  I drove on a 8,500 trip from NC to southern CA, up the coast to Washington and across the Midwest to ND and south to Elkhart.  I had been on some of those roads BEFORE my Source upgrades (had the stabilizer).  The Source items was like halving the wander.  i call it Driver Fatigue.  Then after adding the Watts….maybe a four fold improvement.  I opted NOT to cross brace….that would probably added a little, but i was taking curves and exits faster than I should….so I was happy with my improvement.  At least one or perhaps another member had the Source goodies and added the Watts for the same dramatic improvement…..

My TRW box at upper 40’s or low 50’s required on a minor, almost imperceptible tweak by one of expert members….so, all the improvements came from the upgrades. .  The stabilizer has four times the impact to reduce driver fatigue with the Watts. Now I have the Blue Ox and it IS adjustable …. . I now drive properly with two hands and no see sawing.  My wife even commented that I was wandering less….

That’s the history. Search WATTS in the box and select TOPICS.  Lots written…

Good luck….

Yes, I put a home made Watts link on my 36 gas bounder.  Huge difference.  Tags generally don't need it as there is much more resistance to side to side chassis movement than without the tag.  EDIT:  correction...I put really a PanHard bar not a Watts link on that...but to accomplish the same effect, just without the fitment complexity of a true Watts....(half a "watt"? 🙂 )

Your wealth of experience with the history of these coaches is a blessing to the group.

Edited July 13, 2023 by DavidL

[Cubflyer]

Tom and David L have both given you great info and I believe are sending you in the right direction.  My coach was a handful when I first got it.  I started with high tire pressures not knowing the weight (on the axles or each tire) being carried, after weighing each axle (some recommend each corner (wheel set)) I found that per the tire pressure chart, that I was running pressures much too high. (100+ when chart said 85-90).  This helped some, but still the coach had a mind of it's own crossing bridges on interstates, changing lanes where the pavement height differed, and each passing truck moved me left and right and left again.  I have the 8 airbag 8 shock Roadmaster Chassis, old Shephard steering box, cheap shocks. Keep in mind that a steering box is just that, a steering device, not a make the vehicle go straight box.

Now days passing trucks startle me when they 'appear' next to me, crossing between newly paved and old lanes doesn't even shake me up, dips on and off of interstate overpasses I just throw up my hands like riding a rollercoaster and my coach goes straight, strong crosswinds (NE, WY) still push me some but no worse than any car I have driven.  What did I do to get to this? Source Eng. Swaybar in the front mounted so the links are perpendicular to the road/chassis, Front Watts link and rear crossbars.  Simply put, I did things that make the coach stable and drive straight.  The Watts link and crossbars did the most for that, the swaybar reduced body roll (that "elephant walk". 

Good luck on your quest to have a good driving coach. IMO Best order, tire pressure, watts link and crossbars, front swaybar (maybe rear also, I do not have any experience with that), shocks if they are shot/leaking, steering box only if the coach is not steering the direction you want to go.  You should not be "steering" the coach straight down the road, it should do that by itself.

Ken

[DrewGeorge]

21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I say TWR by the shaft.  Shepherd definitely is different.  However, as you stated, this one is an earlier one.  The “double” can with one end cast and the other a press in “seal” is not consistent with what is normally seen.  Have you “felt” the other side of the pump for the adjusting “stud” and lock nut.

Go to MonacoWatts.com.  Get in touch with Mike Hughes.  He sells the Watts Link kits.  He would be the person to ask.

 

Thanks Tom and yes, I felt the top side of the pump and it is smooth, there is no adjusting stud or lock nut there.  So if this is a TRW, is it the first one you've seen without the ability to adjust it?

[Tom Cherry]

40 minutes ago, DrewGeorge said:

Thanks Tom and yes, I felt the top side of the pump and it is smooth, there is no adjusting stud or lock nut there.  So if this is a TRW, is it the first one you've seen without the ability to adjust it?

I’d contact Mike Hughes & @vanwill52.  They are my “experts”.  Call TRW & then get an email and send your photo to him(her).  Yours was made after Roadmaster was bought from Chrysler in 1994….so, unless it was a carryover, it could be someone else,  You might email a picture to Scott Zimmer @ Source Engineering.  He might know.

I looked at a bunch of steering sectors….but never saw the double can design.  
 

I sent you a link to a presentation that was done discussing the “wandering” and conversion to TRW.  Interesting reading….but it also listed the “source” Weller Truck that folks use for the parts.  They MIGHT know….so contact them….

There is also a HOW I DID IT on TRW swap in our files….TRW in the search box at the top and FILES from the dropdown menu etc.  

That exhausts my poor brain.  I KNOW you will find out if you persevere….tell us….THANKS.

[DrewGeorge]

Thanks again, Tom, and I spoke to Mike Hughes this morning and he said the adjustment nut will be on the side up against the frame. So I just checked, and indeed, he was correct!  AND, someone burned a small hole in the frame for easy access to the adjustment nut. Hooray!

 

[Tom Cherry]

29 minutes ago, DrewGeorge said:

Thanks again, Tom, and I spoke to Mike Hughes this morning and he said the adjustment nut will be on the side up against the frame. So I just checked, and indeed, he was correct!  AND, someone burned a small hole in the frame for easy access to the adjustment nut. Hooray!

 

Great….how about that.  Perseverance pays off….now, learn how to adjust.  Lots of YouTube info out there….

[Donflem]

I have the wandering problem with my Dynasty. I keep adjusting my tag axle to find a sweet spot. I’m starting to think I might need  a new tow bar seems like a lot of play. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Donflem said:

I have the wandering problem with my Dynasty. I keep adjusting my tag axle to find a sweet spot. I’m starting to think I might need  a new tow bar seems like a lot of play. 🤷🏼‍♂️

I’d try the Roadmaster hitch tightener or the one Amazon sells.  The normal looseness can cause some issues.  Several of us, especially with fulls size SUV or PUT have noticed a marked improvement. Next up would be to adjust or tweak the steering sector.  Read the first response and identify which one you have. Folks with Dynasties or higher in your year see some, but typically not the improvement that we lower food chain folks see with the Watts link.  Many Dynasty owners have watched the videos and tightened up their TRW and don’t feel or see the need to install the Watts.

[Donflem]

Thanks Tom I will look into both suggestions.

[DrewGeorge]

An update as I’ve made some progress: yesterday I discovered that the steering reservoir was very low on fluid, so I added a gallon (yikes!) and changed the filter.
As suggested in the comments in another thread, I then started the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes prior to moving the steering wheel and then went lock-to-lock 5 times to remove air from the system. The steering immediately improved, with a significantly firmer feel and a much smaller area of play now. 
Also I discovered that Monaco recommended lower tire pressures for this model than the tire manufacturer does (85 vs 110) so I’ll try that next. 
To confirm, I haven’t tried adjusting the TRW steering box yet. 
And I’ve spoken with Jim at Source Engineering regarding their shocks, they don’t have any in stock right now but he said he’ll let me know when they come in. 
Thanks to all for the advice, I sincerely appreciate it!

Edited July 26, 2023 by DrewGeorge
typos

[dl_racing427]

Wow, surprised it was that low.
Do you see any signs of leakage?  If not, maybe whoever replaced the steering box forgot to check the fluid level afterwards.
At any rate, glad to hear it improved steering feel, and apparently didn't cause any damage.

[Frank Bergamo]

The proper way to determine tire pressure is to weigh the coach. Four individual corners if possible. If not, then individual axle weights. Then look at tire pressure charts for your specific tire brand and adjust accordingly. An under inflated tire can be really dangerous. No guessing, your life and others is of the utmost importance. Hope this helps.

[Tom Cherry]

As mich as I love my Source Bilsteins, unless you spend a bundle for the heaveir front shocks and the standard SOURCE shocks (all SOURCE) and add front and rear Source Sway bars, you are NOT going to see a major, if any  difference in wandering.  A steering stabikizer will improve that slightly, as you are the SEE SAW doing it.  The Watts link will do the most, but only the TRW…

Take that to the BANK!

[DrewGeorge]

Thanks David, and yes, now that you mention it there was some fluid on the steering box when I bought the motorhome 3 weeks ago, I wiped it off then and totally forgot about it - so thanks for the reminder to examine it further!

21 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

The proper way to determine tire pressure is to weigh the coach. Four individual corners if possible. If not, then individual axle weights. Then look at tire pressure charts for your specific tire brand and adjust accordingly. An under inflated tire can be really dangerous. No guessing, your life and others is of the utmost importance. Hope this helps.

Thanks Frank, and I really like this approach as I was hesitant to reduce the tire pressure that much (so I didn't do it yet), I'll get the coach weighed and adjust as you suggested. 

17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

As mich as I love my Source Bilsteins, unless you spend a bundle for the heaveir front shocks and the standard SOURCE shocks (all SOURCE) and add front and rear Source Sway bars, you are NOT going to see a major, if any  difference in wandering.  A steering stabikizer will improve that slightly, as you are the SEE SAW doing it.  The Watts link will do the most, but only the TRW…

Take that to the BANK!

Thanks Tom and I'm not expecting the shocks to fix my (now greatly reduced) wandering woes, instead my working premise is that my Monroe shocks are 31-year old OEM's therefore it's past time to replace them.

 

 

Edited July 27, 2023 by DrewGeorge
upload photo of shock

[vanwill52]

The things everyone needs to grasp are that:

1) "Wandering", defined as you holding the steering wheel PERFECTLY still on a long, straight smooth road and your coach drifts slightly left...then slightly right...constantly, requiring you to make a steering correction.  THAT is wandering. 

2) Wandering is caused by ONE AND ONLY ONE THING--your coach is going in EXACTLY the direction its wheels are pointed.  It doesn't magically go to the left when the wheels are pointed to the right.  And unfortunately, the Roadmaster chassis design allows its wheels to be constantly changing direction with ZERO steering input.  There is nothing magic about caster, camber, toe-in, steering stabilizers or any other add-on "steering correction" device.  It's just a simple, basic design flaw in the Roadmaster chassis.

3) To cure that wandering, you need to solve the problem of your wheels not staying pointed in the direction your steering wheel is pointed.

4) And for the love of all that is intelligent, GIVE UP THIS CRAZY FANTASY THAT A "SHOCK ABSORBER" (misnomer) CAN CONTRIBUTE TO KEEPING YOUR WHEELS HEADED IN ANY DIRECTION AND DIMINISH WANDERING.  What does a shock do?  It DAMPS VERTICAL motion (described by the silly word "porpoising").  It does NOTHING else.  It CANNOT do anything else.  If you do not have an engineering or technical background, you are going to fall for someone's "snake oil", and that's what shocks are to wandering.  Any time someone reports an improvement in wandering due to changing shocks, the change is only between the ears of the poor bugger who just parted with an insane amount of money to purchase the latest "holy grail" shock.

5) And NO, a stiffer shock will NOT make your coach ride "smoother", much less cure its wandering.  If your desire is to feel every tar strip you roll over, buy the stiffest shock you can find.  It will rattle your teeth out, but your wandering will not be improved even microscopically...except between your ears.

6) And yes, I AM the crazy man who removed all (8) of his shocks both before and after installing a Watts link and rear cross bars.  I did not have a pre-conceived notion of a result I wanted to conform to what I believed. I was a mechanical engineer seeking data points.  The result--with NO shocks, the coach has less vertical damping.  But did shocks, or no shocks, or mega-bucks shocks affect the wandering?  No, not one IOTA.  And anyone who understands the construction details of the Roadmaster chassis could see that.  If the subassembly that holds your axles is squirming around under you, how can you possibly expect it to NOT wander?

If you have read this long rant, go back and reread #2.  There is your answer.  Stabilize your H-frame with and additional Panhard bar or a Watts link, plus rear cross-braces and your coach stops wandering.  PERIOD.  Sorry if I have offended anyone.  That is not my intention.

[Tom Cherry]

2 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

The things everyone needs to grasp are that:

1) "Wandering", defined as you holding the steering wheel PERFECTLY still on a long, straight smooth road and your coach drifts slightly left...then slightly right...constantly, requiring you to make a steering correction.  THAT is wandering. 

2) Wandering is caused by ONE AND ONLY ONE THING--your coach is going in EXACTLY the direction its wheels are pointed.  It doesn't magically go to the left when the wheels are pointed to the right.  And unfortunately, the Roadmaster chassis design allows its wheels to be constantly changing direction with ZERO steering input.  There is nothing magic about caster, camber, toe-in, steering stabilizers or any other add-on "steering correction" device.  It's just a simple, basic design flaw in the Roadmaster chassis.

3) To cure that wandering, you need to solve the problem of your wheels not staying pointed in the direction your steering wheel is pointed.

4) And for the love of all that is intelligent, GIVE UP THIS CRAZY FANTASY THAT A "SHOCK ABSORBER" (misnomer) CAN CONTRIBUTE TO KEEPING YOUR WHEELS HEADED IN ANY DIRECTION AND DIMINISH WANDERING.  What does a shock do?  It DAMPS VERTICAL motion (described by the silly word "porpoising").  It does NOTHING else.  It CANNOT do anything else.  If you do not have an engineering or technical background, you are going to fall for someone's "snake oil", and that's what shocks are to wandering.  Any time someone reports an improvement in wandering due to changing shocks, the change is only between the ears of the poor bugger who just parted with an insane amount of money to purchase the latest "holy grail" shock.

5) And NO, a stiffer shock will NOT make your coach ride "smoother", much less cure its wandering.  If your desire is to feel every tar strip you roll over, buy the stiffest shock you can find.  It will rattle your teeth out, but your wandering will not be improved even microscopically...except between your ears.

6) And yes, I AM the crazy man who removed all (8) of his shocks both before and after installing a Watts link and rear cross bars.  I did not have a pre-conceived notion of a result I wanted to conform to what I believed. I was a mechanical engineer seeking data points.  The result--with NO shocks, the coach has less vertical damping.  But did shocks, or no shocks, or mega-bucks shocks affect the wandering?  No, not one IOTA.  And anyone who understands the construction details of the Roadmaster chassis could see that.  If the subassembly that holds your axles is squirming around under you, how can you possibly expect it to NOT wander?

If you have read this long rant, go back and reread #2.  There is your answer.  Stabilize your H-frame with and additional Panhard bar or a Watts link, plus rear cross-braces and your coach stops wandering.  PERIOD.  Sorry if I have offended anyone.  That is not my intention.

@vanwill52

Well, THANK YOU.  I was hoping you would take the bait and bring some common sense and logic to this.  Really good.  If anyone is offended, then we will deal with that....we HAVE courses for improving attitude, but most problems are in the "Manufacturer" of the entity...so some parents may be liable...  LOL..

Next...I want to make sure that you KNOW that I fully understand Shocks.  My comment was that I prefer the Source Shocks.  With the front and rear sway bars that I added and the heavier, stiffer Source Shocks, there was an overall improvement in the ride comfort and the "feel" of the motor home to the most important person in the world.  My Copilot.  After I replaced the hardly worn down (Not RIVERED) GY OEM at 20 K or so...I then added the HD Source (based on Scott and Jim's comments) to the front and also regular Source on the rear. I had put on a Blue Ox TruCenter, as our current leader had on his Exec...and based on his comments.

That combination, for whatever it is worth, made a LOT of difference in driver fatigue and also ride comfort and it also allowed my DW to be able to read comfortably for hours (think 3 hours at a stretch).  Up to that point, she would get headaches after 30 minutes or so.  She had often complained about that.  I took her for a "Test Ride" when she sort of "demanded"....OK show me the GOOD things from all this money.  We drove for 50 miles and came back up I-40 to Raleigh.  We have logged at least 4K, over three years with a trusted 5 Star operator and all the folks that we had recommended trying them called to thank us and buy us a dinner.  They used MCI and some Canadian and Prevosts for our tours.  She said....this now "rides" heavier and is more comfortable...like the "Tauck" (tour operator) busses.  Am I GONNA argue with her...and her "impression"....  THEN, we went for a 5K trip.  We left Raleigh and after 3 days, were in Nashville.  She had finished the ONLY book she brought.  I casually mentioned or asked if her head or eyes hurt.  THEN it hit her and she explained.  OMG. I have been engrossed in reading for 3 days...for HOURS.  You have FIXED IT.  NOW...that may not meet some criteria for "Objective" comments...but I'm sticking with it.

I can tell folks that he sway bars and shocks sure calmed down some cross winds in ND and SD when we went back...compared to the BEFORE TIME.

HOWEVER...the Watts link made a world of difference.  New Shocks, firmness of your "butt's" feeling will NOT stop the wandering or the "impact of a truck".  Pratt reported, as I did, that the Watts made a WHOLE lot of difference in the steering wheel "see sawing" and we rarely found ourselves correcting or overcorrecting. His Exec is different from my Camelot. I KNEW before I cleared Van's driveway that this was an unbelievable improvement and then drove over 8.5K that summer and it was more pleasant and less fatigue...

SO...to set the comment straight....I PREFER the custom valving of the Source Bilsteins and I understand how they were developed.  BUT, I would NOT put the HD on the front.  Now the SWAY BARS?  I do NOT know.  I do know with the Watts and the shock and sway bars, the Camelot literally does feel like it is on "rails" in curves and in the mountains and at exits and whatever. I really have to keep reminding myself to SLOW DOWN.  I drive the MH faster in curves with less "OMG" than I do our Yukon...

Again...thanks for chiming in....always great to hear the sermon again..  LOL.

[TomV48]

NO DOUBT.   The Monaco/Watts link on the front of our 2005 and the cross bar links in the back have saved my will to RV.   These days I bow toward Lancaster, CA  and say a thank you to Mike Hughes.   Still working toward the TRW but not a bunch of shops are itching to be responsible to do that for me.  Had a nice chat with Kaiser Alignment in Eugene and he is looking to see what he has in the way of parts needed and my local shop, Colton Truck Terminal, Colton, CA, will do it for me but they prefer that I find the correct TRW gear and Pitman Arm then have them R and R the job.  Working on that right now unless Kaiser comes up with a firm plan.