New Owners of 2006 Dynasty

[Trevor and Laura]

 

Hello from Laura and Trevor in Owen Sound ON and Bella, our new to us 2006 42ft Monaco Dynasty Diamond iv, what a mouthful... She has been well loved by her previous owners, having her own shelter beside their home with 50A shore power; I suspect she will feel neglected now, in outside storage and without any shorepower.

We spent 6 months roaming in warmer places during the last Winter towing a 26/30ft trailer, enjoyed it immensely and decided that we “deserved” something more comfortable in our old age.. a new adventure LOL.. So it has started, much to learn and a few things to repair or upgrade; we have been reading about things, but have some questions in hope of finding the best solutions, for problems that no doubt others have resolved before us...

So hoping that we will be pointed in the right directions...

Here in Ontario vehicles must go through a safety inspection, Laura had driven the 750 miles home from WI and quickly became aware of loose, wandering steering, we are now waiting on an expensive new drag link, could not talk the repair shop into a cheaper machine shop fix, ouch..

 

The PO had thought that the chassis batteries needed replacing as they quickly dropped down to 12.2v and was good enough to install a new pair for us, however it does not seem to be any different, charging is good from the alternator to the chassis but was not from 15A outside the house, hope to check from the gennie today. Did bring them up with a regular battery charger, but not a long term option for us.. we need SOLAR..

I don't believe those chassis batts are wired the best way, both main cables are connected to the inside battery, with the outside battery jumpered to it, wouldn't Monaco have had +ve from one and -ve from the other, to keep things balanced.

So hoping that one side has longer cables??

She came with a spare “Big Boy” relay, maybe the old one that has been cleaned, will do some tests in that area and switch them out if it is functioning okay... Have a feeling that technology in this area will have moved on since our build in 2005, but the original should still work if parts are good..

 

Solar, the biggest problem here is my inability to get on the roof, so looking for help.. this is going to be a must have for us. (panels & help..)

Bella was ordered with a residential fridge and so came with one 100w panel but the Aladddin only shows it putting out 7v?? panel or controller?

On the verge of ordering two 200w Renogy panels from Amazon, hoping that the original controller and wiring is still good.

Will the combiner box on the roof use the MC4 connectors or should I plan on replacing, will there be enough spare cable there to make the switch? Will buy some connectors, extensions and a crimper to try and be prepared. Scary to make more holes up there, best way to seal the old and new ones; best way to keep the cables tidy and secure, etc. etc. there must be a book on this stuff somewhere..

Tech bulletin said cables go straight down to batteries but our manual tells us that the controller is in the big storage bay and that cables then go to each battery bank with fuses, hoping that someone can tell us just where... controller sized for 5 x 100w panels..

So many questions, hope not to be a pain, but we sure are going to need some help..

and how to use a signature.. picture at our 1st stop on the way home.

Laura and Trevor

Owen Sound, Ontario..        Bella, 2006 42ft Dynasty Diamond  4

[1nolaguy]

Welcome on board Trevor and Laura. Since this is not your first rodeo you know maintaining/upgrading and RV is always a matter of priorities. With regards to electric power, might I suggest you have the existing system checked out by a pro (NRVIA inspector) unless you did this prior to purchase. As you start upgrading it can be more cost effective to have the whole system analyzed so you only buy what you need. Batteries (especially LFP) can be expensive and it can be frustrating to buy new batteries and then find out you also need to replace your cables, charger and or inverter, etc.   I learned this sort of the hard way.

[cbr046]

15A shore power doesn't keep the chassis batts charged on our 2003 Endeavor, so I shut them off with the main switch in the battery bay between trips. 

Unless you are full-timing I highly recommend a structure (pole barn minimum) to protect from rain and melting snow.  It doesn't take much for water to find it's way into an older coach, and most of the time it's going to be "just sitting there". 

ProFlex RV is the ONLY caulk you should use . . . . and Dicor self leveling sealant for roof seams. 

Congrats on your step up and welcome to Monacoers.org!

- bob

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

15A shore power doesn't keep the chassis batts charged on our 2003 Endeavor, so I shut them off with the main switch in the battery bay between trips. 

Unless you are full-timing I highly recommend a structure (pole barn minimum) to protect from rain and melting snow.  It doesn't take much for water to find it's way into an older coach, and most of the time it's going to be "just sitting there". 

ProFlex RV is the ONLY caulk you should use . . . . and Dicor self leveling sealant for roof seams. 

Congrats on your step up and welcome to Monacoers.org!

- bob

I use and have used BOTH for general and a complete recaulking.  I like the DiCor Self Leveling (was originally for rubber EPDM roofs) better as it is more viscous and flows a little better.  It is easier to work with, for me.  The correct way to recaulk, or at least what many use.  Wash the roof thoroughly with something like a diluted (maybe 5:1) Simple green.  For really ROUGH spots, I use the Tire Cleaner Black Magic Bleech White.  IT IS POWERFUL.  So use caution and be outside.  It will clean up trouble spots where mold or sap or whatever has messed up or severely damaged or stained the caulk.  After Bleech White, I use Simple Green to get rid of the skim of it and rinse....RINSE.

OK...all dry.  Now, I use blue painter's tape.  Go out about 3/4" from the old caulk.  Do this on all the protrusions (fans, vents, skylights, etc.).  Then use the DiCor (or Proflex) and apply it.  you want to cover the old caulk, but not build up an inch.  Lots of times, when using a tire brush to clean you will see voids or air bubbles.  When the caulk is wet (water), then press down.  IF air bubbles up.  That is a candidate for a heavier layer.  Then start to taper off between the old caulk and the tape.  Use a wide putty knife.  Then let it dry.  Use a razor knife if needed to trim the caulk as you pull up the tape.

 

[Dr4Film]

Welcome and congratulations on purchasing one of the best Monaco coaches ever built (prejudiced a little). We purchased a 2006 Monaco Dynasty Countess III last February 2022 in Salt Lake City. Drove it home the 3000 miles back to Florida and started to go through it inch by inch to put it back into the condition it should have been in. I am about 90% complete.

You will get the very best information and recommendations here on this site versus others.

Safe travels!

[vito.a]

The Intellitec Big Boy relay does not combine the house and chassis batteries until the house batteries reach a preset voltage.  And even then the Big Boy is notorious for carbon build up on the main copper contact inside.  As a result, they require cleaning or replacement periodically.  

Some folks are replacing the Big Boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR.  It's a much better system and comes with a lifetime guarantee.  

Monaco installed the Heliotrope RV series solar charge controller.  Of course the Heliotrope is an older PWM type and the newer MPPT charge controllers are more efficient.  If you have the RV45D it can provide up to 45 amps of charge to both battery banks.  That's generally considered 500 to 800 watts of solar panels.  I've installed three 225 watt panels and never maxed it out.  (I should say Renogy panels would not be my 1st recommendation.)

Having said all that, solar is often misunderstood and folks tend to confuse watts with amps.  You really need around 2000 watts minimum to be effective.  

Hope this helps!

    

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Trevor and Laura said:

 

Hello from Laura and Trevor in Owen Sound ON and Bella, our new to us 2006 42ft Monaco Dynasty Diamond iv, what a mouthful... She has been well loved by her previous owners, having her own shelter beside their home with 50A shore power; I suspect she will feel neglected now, in outside storage and without any shorepower.

We spent 6 months roaming in warmer places during the last Winter towing a 26/30ft trailer, enjoyed it immensely and decided that we “deserved” something more comfortable in our old age.. a new adventure LOL.. So it has started, much to learn and a few things to repair or upgrade; we have been reading about things, but have some questions in hope of finding the best solutions, for problems that no doubt others have resolved before us...

So hoping that we will be pointed in the right directions...

Here in Ontario vehicles must go through a safety inspection, Laura had driven the 750 miles home from WI and quickly became aware of loose, wandering steering, we are now waiting on an expensive new drag link, could not talk the repair shop into a cheaper machine shop fix, ouch..

 

The PO had thought that the chassis batteries needed replacing as they quickly dropped down to 12.2v and was good enough to install a new pair for us, however it does not seem to be any different, charging is good from the alternator to the chassis but was not from 15A outside the house, hope to check from the gennie today. Did bring them up with a regular battery charger, but not a long term option for us.. we need SOLAR..

I don't believe those chassis batts are wired the best way, both main cables are connected to the inside battery, with the outside battery jumpered to it, wouldn't Monaco have had +ve from one and -ve from the other, to keep things balanced.

So hoping that one side has longer cables??

She came with a spare “Big Boy” relay, maybe the old one that has been cleaned, will do some tests in that area and switch them out if it is functioning okay... Have a feeling that technology in this area will have moved on since our build in 2005, but the original should still work if parts are good..

 

Solar, the biggest problem here is my inability to get on the roof, so looking for help.. this is going to be a must have for us. (panels & help..)

Bella was ordered with a residential fridge and so came with one 100w panel but the Aladddin only shows it putting out 7v?? panel or controller?

On the verge of ordering two 200w Renogy panels from Amazon, hoping that the original controller and wiring is still good.

Will the combiner box on the roof use the MC4 connectors or should I plan on replacing, will there be enough spare cable there to make the switch? Will buy some connectors, extensions and a crimper to try and be prepared. Scary to make more holes up there, best way to seal the old and new ones; best way to keep the cables tidy and secure, etc. etc. there must be a book on this stuff somewhere..

Tech bulletin said cables go straight down to batteries but our manual tells us that the controller is in the big storage bay and that cables then go to each battery bank with fuses, hoping that someone can tell us just where... controller sized for 5 x 100w panels..

So many questions, hope not to be a pain, but we sure are going to need some help..

and how to use a signature.. picture at our 1st stop on the way home.

Laura and Trevor

Owen Sound, Ontario..        Bella, 2006 42ft Dynasty Diamond  4

First. WELCOME.  That is a great MH.  Hard to beat.  Has several of the UPGRADES....but not some of the "OMG....it can't be FIXED" ones.  

Bit of housekeeping from a Moderator.  We try to limit a new topic or post to ONE specific or general area.  You have a LOT.  That means that some folks get confused or there may be way more information....and unfortunately, sometimes, folks will post about their experience...but not be aware that you have a totally different MH or wiring or component.  That is why we request, in the future to limit to one item or general problem.  Let's work on the Electrical.  Charging and such...  Solar is something that we have many experts on...so I'm letting that slide by.

FIRST....HOPE you have the Original Owner's Manual for the MH.  That has ALL the Prints and schematics.  If you are not conversant with print and electrical reading....do some research or watch a few YouTube video tutorials.

OK....so you are "Monacoized", the Dynasty (HR Imperial); Executive (Naviagator) and Signature all are the same....but the higher food chains will have more goodies....so when folks respond....take that into account. Your Big Boy is controlled by a PCB (that has two control wires) going to the Big Boy.  The first test....and easiest.  Disconnect all shore power.  Wait a few minutes.  You MIGHT hear a CLUNK from the Rear Run area.  Stay back there.  Locate the Big Boy.  Put you hand on it.  It MAY be hot...or NOT.  Start the engine and let it run for 2 or 3 minutes.  Feel or touch the Big Boy.  It should be Humming or Buzzing....and start to get hot to the touch.  It may be too hot to keep a finger on...but that is normal. OK....shut off the Engine.  Did you hear a CLUNK?.  Now keep your hand on the Big Boy.  Have someone start the Genny.  Once it gets up and running and the voltage stabilizes the Magnum will start pumping out recharging current.  That is to the HOUSE....so since you depleted the Chassis by starting, they should need Bi Directional Charging.  So, the Big Boy should CLOSE or GO CLUNK and make noise.  IF NOT....the control PCB may need fixing....and they CAN be fixed....but sometimes expensive.  You can sometimes find a used one on Ebay....be aware...it should be guaranteed.

OK....no clunk of buzz.  Then (Cellphones are great), have someone hold on the Battery Boost switch.  That puts a full 12 VDC to it.  It should immediately GO CLUNK.  If so....that works. The control PCB has a variable (Pulsed) output.  If you could get to the control terminals with VOM probes, it would actually "Read" a voltage in the 5 VDC or so range.  That is called the Holding Voltage to keep the BB closed for BIRD Charging.  It varies....I suspect yours is above 4 and below 8.  Some boards are different.  This locks in the coil so it doesn't get too hot.  My Camelot has a different control module and it runs a lower voltage (3.2 up to 4.5).  It buzzes or hums less or quieter and is not nearly as hot.  OK...that is how you test the Coil and activation.  NOW....if it works and clunks and makes noise and gets hot....GREAT.  BUT, the test is ..... are the contracts OK.  Measure the voltage across the studs.  Should be less than 0.1 VDC.  If it is higher, then there is resistance (pitting) in the terminals.  You can pull it apart.  There is a BIG BOY cleaning paper.  Use the search at the upper right.  Put in BIG BOY.  then use the dropdown to the right and choose files.  it details it.

 YES....Monaco runs the main cables (at least on mine) to the rear....then jumpers to the front.  That's it.  Works....may not be what you are used to...but that is how I have seen it on way too many or in pictures.

 

[Jdw12345]

Congratulations on your new coach, and welcome to the greatest Monaco owners group!

[det944]

Yes, congrats on the new coach. Awesome wealth of knowledge here! The folks here are the best for helping fellow Monacoers.  We purchased our Dynasty a year and a half ago and we love it. Hope to full time someday.

We also have the diamond IV floorplan.

[Trevor and Laura]

My apologies to all for this complicated, multi subject intitial post, maybe just feeling a bit overwhelmed??

We will repost questions in the specific tech forums.

Many thanks from us for the welcomes to the community and for the information shared.

Laura & Trevor

with Bella, our 42ft 2006 Dynasty D4

in ON.

[1nolaguy]

22 hours ago, cbr046 said:

15A shore power doesn't keep the chassis batts charged on our 2003 Endeavor, so I shut them off with the main switch in the battery bay between trips. 

Unless you are full-timing I highly recommend a structure (pole barn minimum) to protect from rain and melting snow.  It doesn't take much for water to find it's way into an older coach, and most of the time it's going to be "just sitting there". 

ProFlex RV is the ONLY caulk you should use . . . . and Dicor self leveling sealant for roof seams. 

Congrats on your step up and welcome to Monacoers.org!

- bob

 

Shore power will not charge our chassis batteries either. I use a 4 amp digital charger from HF to keep my chassis batteries topped off when I have hook up and a 25watt solar panel connected via a12v charge controller directly to the chassis batteries when in storage without shore power. This has worked well for 3 years and the cost was less than $75.

[Georgia Mike]

Laura and Trevor welcome to the site. You have a beautiful rig there….. I especially like the color scheme it looks real nice 😊