2011 Camelot residential refrigerator install questions…discussion.

[camelot]

How difficult is it to install residential frig in 2011 monaco camelot? TY Steve

[Ivylog]

What’s the height inside the slide out?

[camelot]

73.25"

[jacwjames]

In most cases the height is the problem but in your case with +73" you have plenty of room. 

I installed a Samsung RF18 and the height was the issue for me as I have the furnace underneath, had to do a lot of work to get enough height.  I checked my manual and it says the height is 70 1/8".

Other then that probably getting the old one out and new one in would be the hardest part.  I took the old Norcold apart to get it out through the front door, wasn't a problem.  The Samsung wouldn't go through the front door so had to remove the passenger side window and brought it in through there. 

[CAT Stephen]

37 minutes ago, camelot said:

73.25"

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?  

Edited September 26, 2023 by CAT Stephen

[camelot]

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

In most cases the height is the problem but in your case with +73" you have plenty of room. 

I installed a Samsung RF18 and the height was the issue for me as I have the furnace underneath, had to do a lot of work to get enough height.  I checked my manual and it says the height is 70 1/8".

Other then that probably getting the old one out and new one in would be the hardest part.  I took the old Norcold apart to get it out through the front door, wasn't a problem.  The Samsung wouldn't go through the front door so had to remove the passenger side window and brought it in through there. 

yes sir that is my question getting it in, probably have to take the windshield out. As for the operation of the frig when driving not on shore power Im guessing the gen set is the answer?

[camelot]

3 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?  

I dont boondock very much if at all! I am fulltime, dont know what a lip04 battery bank is?

 

4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

In most cases the height is the problem but in your case with +73" you have plenty of room. 

I installed a Samsung RF18 and the height was the issue for me as I have the furnace underneath, had to do a lot of work to get enough height.  I checked my manual and it says the height is 70 1/8".

Other then that probably getting the old one out and new one in would be the hardest part.  I took the old Norcold apart to get it out through the front door, wasn't a problem.  The Samsung wouldn't go through the front door so had to remove the passenger side window and brought it in through there. 

That samsung frig has bad reviews any problems its a good price on wayfair?

[Guest Ray Davis]

27 minutes ago, camelot said:

yes sir that is my question getting it in, probably have to take the windshield out. As for the operation of the frig when driving not on shore power Im guessing the gen set is the answer?

If your windshield is good I wouldn't take it out.  IMHO, that would be asking for trouble,  instead, the driver's side window comes out easily,  just screws all around the inside.  That's what I did and the Samsung was still in the box.  Me and the wife, oh, and the tractor helped.   I built a table of sorts outside the window, and the plywood top lapped inside the window.  I put a piece of carpet on the table so the box could slide right in.  Okay, it was not quite as easy as it sounds but we did it.

[Jim Byrd]

I was able to get the Samsung RF18 thru the door on my Holiday Rambler Endeavor, It did require removal of the screen door and removal of doors on the Samsung.

You will also need to remove the driver and passenger seats.

 

[camelot]

55 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

If your windshield is good I wouldn't take it out.  IMHO, that would be asking for trouble,  instead, the driver's side window comes out easily,  just screws all around the inside.  That's what I did and the Samsung was still in the box.  Me and the wife, oh, and the tractor helped.   I built a table of sorts outside the window, and the plywood top lapped inside the window.  I put a piece of carpet on the table so the box could slide right in.  Okay, it was not quite as easy as it sounds but we did it.

when you take out the window do you have to reseal it? Also if its alittle foggy might as well fix that to, if its not to much trouble?

[Garry Donohue]

Look at the emergency exit window. The whole frame swings up to allow clearance for the fridge. I put in a whirlpool side by side counter depth sold at Lowe’s. 

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, camelot said:

when you take out the window do you have to reseal it? Also if its alittle foggy might as well fix that to, if its not to much trouble?

There's some videos on defogging dual pane windows.  It's doable . . . .

Removing the front seats was easy.  4 bolts each. 

Our 6 yo stick & brick Samsung compressor fried with a nearby lightning strike.  Dang, really liked it too.  The Samsung factory repairman would replace the compressor under warranty but not warranty it working when he got it replaced.  WHAT?  EVERY repairman said Samsung didn't have a good record and we should buy a GE or Frigidaire, being one of the last American made holdouts.  The Frigidaire we bought might last longer than me but IMO isn't very well thought out.  There's not enough tall shelf space (yes, we moved them around), some of the drawers don't line up perfectly, but the biggest gripe is both doors need to be opened to pull out the RH veggie drawer because the engineers didn't allow clearance for the door's center "flap".  Really miss Samsung's "door-in-a-door" feature. 

- bob

[jacwjames]

I had been reading/researching about residential refrigerators for several years.  At the time only a handful would work with the MSW inverter, Samsung was one of them and was widely used. 

In ~2017 we were building a new house and I was buying all new appliances so out of habit I'd always stop at Lowes & Home Depot to see if they had any deals.  I stopped a the larger Lowes in town and the had a Samsung RF18 on clearance for ~$850, we needed something for the house while I was finishing it anyway so I decided to buy and we used in the 2nd kitchen in the basement until I found a standard size LG on clearance for a good price, both handles were bent from forklift hitting it.  The LG had the door in door and with the handles bent the small door wouldn't stay shut so they priced it at $350, this was a $3400 fridge so I took a chance bought it and replaced the handles and it is still in the basement working great.

Back to the Samsung, >>> had a lot on my plate so didn't even try to install until 2019, my brother was visiting and he helped me get the old Norcold out, Samsung in.   I tried everything to get it in the front door without success so I have a tractor with a forklift on the front so I used it to lift the fridge up and slide it in the side window next to the dinette, easy, should have done that the first time. 

I have read of Samsung failures, not many but they are out there, one member had one fail recently.  I think the issue with the bad reputation of Samsung is from Class Action Lawsuit for larger residential refrigerators.  You can do a search, but the RF18 model is not included.  

But there are quite a few options out there now so do your due diligence and select one you think will work.  Probably the biggest thing is whether it would run on a MSW inverter. 

 

FWIW,

I have a Frigidaire Gallery in our main kitchen, I've had a lot of trouble with it, mostly with the ice maker freezing up.  Soon after we got it we had trouble with it not defrosting and had to put in a warranty claim, a repairman came out and did a fix, which helped but we still have trouble.

My brother has a LG refrigerator just like the one mentioned above, he had a lot of problems with it and LG finally replaced it under warranty.  But just recently it gave him more trouble so he bought a new Whirlpool and keeps the LG in the garage as a spare

A friend had problems with a Whirlpool, he called me and I found a couple common problems with it, one was a relay which was cheap and easy to replace so he tried that, didn't fix it.  Next fix was to replace the main circuit board, ~$150, which did fix the problem

In 1986 we bought a Whirlpool washer, it lasted until 2016, so 30 years.  We replaced it with a Whirlpool, it started leaking last week so had to pull it out and move the Samsung from the downstairs laundry  to laundry on the first floor.  The washer is fixable, if I took it somewhere probably $500, I can fix it myself for ~$60 and will when I get time.

Moral of the story is that most new stuff just doesn't last like it use to, so be prepared. 

 

 

 

[Guest Ray Davis]

2 hours ago, camelot said:

when you take out the window do you have to reseal it? Also if its alittle foggy might as well fix that to, if its not to much trouble?

Mine had a rubber gasket for the seal,  but many of them have a black sticky tar ( forgot the name ) and then a bead of clear or colored caulk around the edge.   I used a bronze caulk.   You may need to reseal it, it depends on how stuck it is.  My rubber seal tore up so I bought the same stuff at Lowes.  It's a narrow ribbed seal.  Yeah, it would be a good time to fix a fogged window, I have never done that but others on here have and I don't think it's too hard to do.   If you decide to remove the window you need to be sure it doesn't fall out after removing the screws.   To guard against it falling I placed a 2x4 leaning against it until I could get outside.  That's the only window I have removed & it's a little heavy I did it by myself but it wouldn't hurt to have help.

Edited September 26, 2023 by Ray Davis

[jacwjames]

I repaired 3 fogged windows in 2015, still all good.

Here is a post I did on IRV2 on the repair   https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html

[Gary Cole]

I replaced my Norco with a Samsung RF18.  I didn't have any problem getting it thru my Diplomat door. I didn't even have to remove the screen. I was concerned about the negative reviews. Out of curiosity I changed the search from Samsung to every other brand and it seems that they are all the "worst refrigerator anyone has ever owned and no one should  buy one". Then just for fun I changed it to "fill in the blank brand automatic transmission problems." Apparently the same people are never going to buy another automatic transmission from any car maker.  The internet can be an interesting place.

7 hours ago, jacwjames said:

ice maker freezing up. 

I have tinkered with mine for years. Shortened the stroke, added a roller bearing, balanced with a weight, etc. It has quite a complicated and unusual mechanism. Puts on a good show. Does make a cute little ice cube when it works. 

[Tom Cherry]

@camelot

Two things.  

Do a search using the search bar in the top.  Use residential or samsung.  Click on the EVERYWHERE and chose TOPICS.  A world of information on hos members have done this.  

Next….  Here is the drill, from a Camelot owner,  your MH is probably a twin to mine.  Yes…it will fit, but measure anyway.

The earlier Camelot’s had a drawer under the Dometic 1402.  Your picture wooks like they pulled that drawer and the refrigerator is sitting on the floor of the slide or the body.  That makes it simpler.

There will be (probably) insulation on the interior walls Or maybe on the existing refrigerator.  PULL THAT OUT…it was needed for safety (CO2) as well as to keep the heat from the burner from infiltrating the interior.  You need air circulation….so, don’t be fooled into thinking it is needed with a residential.

Use a side window.  Under NO Circumstances remove the windshield.  You will need to dismantle the old unit.  Pull the doors and such.  You will need a lift….or make a platform at the height of the bottom of the window you pull and a lot of helpers and muscle.  Some try to manipulate and maneuver the refrigerator in through the main door.  Will have to oull the passenger seat.  Also use duct tspe and thoroughly pad the dash and interior.  Some have not heeded and done significant damage to interior.  Not saying it can’t be done, but probably (guestimate) 80+% come through window.  All the pros do that.

Remove the valance and blind assembly as a unit.  Cut caulk on outside.  Pull the screws.  Use a rubber mallet or whatever to loosen up or a putty knife around the outside frame.  There is a band or strip of double stick gasket from the frame to the sidewll that has to be broken loose.  You will need to purchase this, probably Amazon, when you reinstall.  Use black or clear Proflex to seal and caulk afterwards 

Need to insulate the top and bottom covers.  This is discussed at length and you will find it when you do your searches.  If you have the vent frames with a louver on eqch side….insulate that.  Basically, you have to make the sidewall solid…except for where the vent covers go into the frame.  The Res Refers are finicky if the temps drop below freezing.  The new government required energy standards rarely let them work on a back porch or an unheated garage.  You CAN do research for an ALL WEATHER model.  More $$.  Most if not all just insulate.  Would be surprised if you found a model that would fit.

The Samsung is the most popular model. Others have used other brands.  I read all the stuff online,  Yes, we have had a few failures.  However, to the best of my knowledge, there have been no failures on the current model.  Mine was out in circa 2017.  Had the issue of low temperature not working.  Samsung factory tech said he gets a plethora of calls where someone replaced an old unit and had it in an unheated area….you nave to unplug….wait for 5 minutes. RESTART.  Once I insulated, nary a moment’s issue with it.  I bought 2 of the adjustable fences or bars and use them to keep stuff from sliders. DW said….why did we wait this long.

Use the inverter or Icemaker outlet. You will need to run genny maybe 2 hours per day when boondocking.  Offline, I will share the simple what to rewire the GFCI outlet.  NO RES REFER likes to be on a GFCI.  Monaco, stupidity, did this.  The rewiring takes 5 minutes….as you move one piece of romex from one side of the GFCI to the other.  Coached at least 50 folks….no issues and no “nuance” trips.

You have to turn off icemaker and use the energy settings when boondocking. Even the folks with the 8 battery house banks do that.

Main thing is fabrication of a “hold me in place” mount.  My system was “self designed” and the big RV shop now uses it.  You screw a “perline” to each of the interior sidewalls.  Maybe 8” from where the rear or back corner will fit.  Use a piece of 5/4 X 1 deck board.  Cut a 2” wide strip avout a foot long.  Screw it to the interior wall so that there is maybe 2 or 3” sticking up or above the top of the refrigerator.  Cut a piece of the decking about 1-1/2” wide and about 1/4” or less than the distance between the side walls.  Need two 2x4 blocks…maybe 8” long.  Sand the bottom (4” side) smooth.  Use 3M VHB double stick tape…CLEAR…it is stronger.  You put s layer of the tape on the bottom of each block.  NOTE….these blocks will be taped to TOP.  Whateve thickness you use….you have to have clearance so that if you ever remove the refrigerator, these blocks will have to SLIDE UNDER the front edge of the wood above the refrigerator….as you look at it from the insdie.  Make sure you understand that.

Insert the refrigerator….slide OUT of course.  Then, from the upper vent…may have to remove the sheetmetal “flue” that Monaco might have put in….you predrill maybe 2 or 3 holes through the 2” wide cross brace.  Put the cross brace in from the rear.  Lay it on top of the refrigerator.  Slide it forward until it (the crossbrace) contacts or is butted up against the two perlines on the side walls.  The brace is on rear….not against the front edges of the perlines (the interior side ).  NOW…peel off the other side of the double stick tape.  You are going to seat of tape or attach these blocks to the top.  Push down….hit a few times with a rubber mallet.  NOW, use 3” or 3-1/2” deck screws…..the crossbrace is predrilled.  You screw the crossbrace to the blocks.  That prevents it from going or moving forward.  

The rear brace is dealers choice.  You put 2x4 blocks or braces on the bottom to hold or wedge it in.  The 4” side is vertical.  Use some 90 deg angle brackets to hold in place.  NOTE….if Monaco still has a piece of the shelf that the Dometic’s sat on in place, remove it or use a 4” hole saw to allow air circulation.  I cut maybe 6 holes….works fine.  You MUST have air circulation from the very bottom of the unit.

That’s it.

 

 

[camelot]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

@camelot

Two things.  

Do a search using the search bar in the top.  Use residential or samsung.  Click on the EVERYWHERE and chose TOPICS.  A world of information on hos members have done this.  

Next….  Here is the drill, from a Camelot owner,  your MH is probably a twin to mine.  Yes…it will fit, but measure anyway.

The earlier Camelot’s had a drawer under the Dometic 1402.  Your picture wooks like they pulled that drawer and the refrigerator is sitting on the floor of the slide or the body.  That makes it simpler.

There will be (probably) insulation on the interior walls Or maybe on the existing refrigerator.  PULL THAT OUT…it was needed for safety (CO2) as well as to keep the heat from the burner from infiltrating the interior.  You need air circulation….so, don’t be fooled into thinking it is needed with a residential.

Use a side window.  Under NO Circumstances remove the windshield.  You will need to dismantle the old unit.  Pull the doors and such.  You will need a lift….or make a platform at the height of the bottom of the window you pull and a lot of helpers and muscle.  Some try to manipulate and maneuver the refrigerator in through the main door.  Will have to oull the passenger seat.  Also use duct tspe and thoroughly pad the dash and interior.  Some have not heeded and done significant damage to interior.  Not saying it can’t be done, but probably (guestimate) 80+% come through window.  All the pros do that.

Remove the valance and blind assembly as a unit.  Cut caulk on outside.  Pull the screws.  Use a rubber mallet or whatever to loosen up or a putty knife around the outside frame.  There is a band or strip of double stick gasket from the frame to the sidewll that has to be broken loose.  You will need to purchase this, probably Amazon, when you reinstall.  Use black or clear Proflex to seal and caulk afterwards 

Need to insulate the top and bottom covers.  This is discussed at length and you will find it when you do your searches.  If you have the vent frames with a louver on eqch side….insulate that.  Basically, you have to make the sidewall solid…except for where the vent covers go into the frame.  The Res Refers are finicky if the temps drop below freezing.  The new government required energy standards rarely let them work on a back porch or an unheated garage.  You CAN do research for an ALL WEATHER model.  More $$.  Most if not all just insulate.  Would be surprised if you found a model that would fit.

The Samsung is the most popular model. Others have used other brands.  I read all the stuff online,  Yes, we have had a few failures.  However, to the best of my knowledge, there have been no failures on the current model.  Mine was out in circa 2017.  Had the issue of low temperature not working.  Samsung factory tech said he gets a plethora of calls where someone replaced an old unit and had it in an unheated area….you nave to unplug….wait for 5 minutes. RESTART.  Once I insulated, nary a moment’s issue with it.  I bought 2 of the adjustable fences or bars and use them to keep stuff from sliders. DW said….why did we wait this long.

Use the inverter or Icemaker outlet. You will need to run genny maybe 2 hours per day when boondocking.  Offline, I will share the simple what to rewire the GFCI outlet.  NO RES REFER likes to be on a GFCI.  Monaco, stupidity, did this.  The rewiring takes 5 minutes….as you move one piece of romex from one side of the GFCI to the other.  Coached at least 50 folks….no issues and no “nuance” trips.

You have to turn off icemaker and use the energy settings when boondocking. Even the folks with the 8 battery house banks do that.

Main thing is fabrication of a “hold me in place” mount.  My system was “self designed” and the big RV shop now uses it.  You screw a “perline” to each of the interior sidewalls.  Maybe 8” from where the rear or back corner will fit.  Use a piece of 5/4 X 1 deck board.  Cut a 2” wide strip avout a foot long.  Screw it to the interior wall so that there is maybe 2 or 3” sticking up or above the top of the refrigerator.  Cut a piece of the decking about 1-1/2” wide and about 1/4” or less than the distance between the side walls.  Need two 2x4 blocks…maybe 8” long.  Sand the bottom (4” side) smooth.  Use 3M VHB double stick tape…CLEAR…it is stronger.  You put s layer of the tape on the bottom of each block.  NOTE….these blocks will be taped to TOP.  Whateve thickness you use….you have to have clearance so that if you ever remove the refrigerator, these blocks will have to SLIDE UNDER the front edge of the wood above the refrigerator….as you look at it from the insdie.  Make sure you understand that.

Insert the refrigerator….slide OUT of course.  Then, from the upper vent…may have to remove the sheetmetal “flue” that Monaco might have put in….you predrill maybe 2 or 3 holes through the 2” wide cross brace.  Put the cross brace in from the rear.  Lay it on top of the refrigerator.  Slide it forward until it (the crossbrace) contacts or is butted up against the two perlines on the side walls.  The brace is on rear….not against the front edges of the perlines (the interior side ).  NOW…peel off the other side of the double stick tape.  You are going to seat of tape or attach these blocks to the top.  Push down….hit a few times with a rubber mallet.  NOW, use 3” or 3-1/2” deck screws…..the crossbrace is predrilled.  You screw the crossbrace to the blocks.  That prevents it from going or moving forward.  

The rear brace is dealers choice.  You put 2x4 blocks or braces on the bottom to hold or wedge it in.  The 4” side is vertical.  Use some 90 deg angle brackets to hold in place.  NOTE….if Monaco still has a piece of the shelf that the Dometic’s sat on in place, remove it or use a 4” hole saw to allow air circulation.  I cut maybe 6 holes….works fine.  You MUST have air circulation from the very bottom of the unit.

That’s it.

 

 

Tom, Thank you as always we have identical units. Did you have any pics concerning the bracing to hold in place. TY Steve

17 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Mine had a rubber gasket for the seal,  but many of them have a black sticky tar ( forgot the name ) and then a bead of clear or colored caulk around the edge.   I used a bronze caulk.   You may need to reseal it, it depends on how stuck it is.  My rubber seal tore up so I bought the same stuff at Lowes.  It's a narrow ribbed seal.  Yeah, it would be a good time to fix a fogged window, I have never done that but others on here have and I don't think it's too hard to do.   If you decide to remove the window you need to be sure it doesn't fall out after removing the screws.   To guard against it falling I placed a 2x4 leaning against it until I could get outside.  That's the only window I have removed & it's a little heavy I did it by myself but it wouldn't hurt to have help.

Thank You! for all the answers everyone. Ty Steve

[camelot]

On 9/26/2023 at 9:10 AM, CAT Stephen said:

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?  

no on the grid at all really! I dont know what a LiP04 Bank is? I have (1) inverter. TY Steve

[Gsmentko]

I replaced my Gas/Electric fridge a few years back when the old one died.... A $1,100 residential fridge sounded a lot better than a $6,000 new gas/electric.  Also, the tech that helped me recommended against the Japanize brands and any fancy electronics.  I installed a Frigidaire that just fit.  Brought it in through the drivers side window and had to reseal it (He helped with that).  My problem was my inverter was not a sinewave inverter and the fridge would not work with the step wave inverter.  So, it didn't work once I unplugged from shore power, so I did two things....  

1) bought a UPS that could power the fridge for about 4 to 6 hours based on wattage (probably not needed after I installed the new full sinewave inverter, but I feel better).

2) Then I bought a new Magnum energy  full sinewave Inverter, replacing the old one.  So, now all my electronics run great on the inverter. I lost a few clocks, electric toothbrushes, and a few other small electronics trying to run them on the original step wave inverter. 

My 2 cents of experience,

Greg

[Rocketman3]

If you full-time - next time you are needing batteries look at the Lithium batteries. 
 

They have three big disadvantages-cost, modifications needed & can’t charge below 32 F.

They have several advantages: lighter, more power for the space,no absorbed time needed, are fine not being charged up.

If/when you look at them- just look at the LiFePO4 chemistry- others are not safe for RV’s.

Good luck with the fridge- to get you old grit out sawzall it in half - then the front door is plenty big.

[camelot]

1 hour ago, Gsmentko said:

I replaced my Gas/Electric fridge a few years back when the old one died.... A $1,100 residential fridge sounded a lot better than a $6,000 new gas/electric.  Also, the tech that helped me recommended against the Japanize brands and any fancy electronics.  I installed a Frigidaire that just fit.  Brought it in through the drivers side window and had to reseal it (He helped with that).  My problem was my inverter was not a sinewave inverter and the fridge would not work with the step wave inverter.  So, it didn't work once I unplugged from shore power, so I did two things....  

1) bought a UPS that could power the fridge for about 4 to 6 hours based on wattage (probably not needed after I installed the new full sinewave inverter, but I feel better).

2) Then I bought a new Magnum energy  full sinewave Inverter, replacing the old one.  So, now all my electronics run great on the inverter. I lost a few clocks, electric toothbrushes, and a few other small electronics trying to run them on the original step wave inverter. 

My 2 cents of experience,

Greg

What model frigidaire? My pure sine wave inverter is a magnum 2011, will that be suffice? TY Steve

[Gsmentko]

58 minutes ago, camelot said:

What model frigidaire? My pure sine wave inverter is a magnum 2011, will that be suffice? TY Steve

The inverter sounds good.  Just ensure the total watts is enough for all your electrical needs... Fridges don't take much...

Mine is a model LFTR1835VFO, Manufactured in January of 2021 with the optional ice maker.  It's only 2 amps at 115 Volt max draw so that is only 230 watts.  It also says defrosting power is 178 Watts.

Greg

[camelot]

TY Steve

[camelot]

On 9/27/2023 at 8:12 AM, Tom Cherry said:

@camelot

Two things.  

Do a search using the search bar in the top.  Use residential or samsung.  Click on the EVERYWHERE and chose TOPICS.  A world of information on hos members have done this.  

Next….  Here is the drill, from a Camelot owner,  your MH is probably a twin to mine.  Yes…it will fit, but measure anyway.

The earlier Camelot’s had a drawer under the Dometic 1402.  Your picture wooks like they pulled that drawer and the refrigerator is sitting on the floor of the slide or the body.  That makes it simpler.

There will be (probably) insulation on the interior walls Or maybe on the existing refrigerator.  PULL THAT OUT…it was needed for safety (CO2) as well as to keep the heat from the burner from infiltrating the interior.  You need air circulation….so, don’t be fooled into thinking it is needed with a residential.

Use a side window.  Under NO Circumstances remove the windshield.  You will need to dismantle the old unit.  Pull the doors and such.  You will need a lift….or make a platform at the height of the bottom of the window you pull and a lot of helpers and muscle.  Some try to manipulate and maneuver the refrigerator in through the main door.  Will have to oull the passenger seat.  Also use duct tspe and thoroughly pad the dash and interior.  Some have not heeded and done significant damage to interior.  Not saying it can’t be done, but probably (guestimate) 80+% come through window.  All the pros do that.

Remove the valance and blind assembly as a unit.  Cut caulk on outside.  Pull the screws.  Use a rubber mallet or whatever to loosen up or a putty knife around the outside frame.  There is a band or strip of double stick gasket from the frame to the sidewll that has to be broken loose.  You will need to purchase this, probably Amazon, when you reinstall.  Use black or clear Proflex to seal and caulk afterwards 

Need to insulate the top and bottom covers.  This is discussed at length and you will find it when you do your searches.  If you have the vent frames with a louver on eqch side….insulate that.  Basically, you have to make the sidewall solid…except for where the vent covers go into the frame.  The Res Refers are finicky if the temps drop below freezing.  The new government required energy standards rarely let them work on a back porch or an unheated garage.  You CAN do research for an ALL WEATHER model.  More $$.  Most if not all just insulate.  Would be surprised if you found a model that would fit.

The Samsung is the most popular model. Others have used other brands.  I read all the stuff online,  Yes, we have had a few failures.  However, to the best of my knowledge, there have been no failures on the current model.  Mine was out in circa 2017.  Had the issue of low temperature not working.  Samsung factory tech said he gets a plethora of calls where someone replaced an old unit and had it in an unheated area….you nave to unplug….wait for 5 minutes. RESTART.  Once I insulated, nary a moment’s issue with it.  I bought 2 of the adjustable fences or bars and use them to keep stuff from sliders. DW said….why did we wait this long.

Use the inverter or Icemaker outlet. You will need to run genny maybe 2 hours per day when boondocking.  Offline, I will share the simple what to rewire the GFCI outlet.  NO RES REFER likes to be on a GFCI.  Monaco, stupidity, did this.  The rewiring takes 5 minutes….as you move one piece of romex from one side of the GFCI to the other.  Coached at least 50 folks….no issues and no “nuance” trips.

You have to turn off icemaker and use the energy settings when boondocking. Even the folks with the 8 battery house banks do that.

Main thing is fabrication of a “hold me in place” mount.  My system was “self designed” and the big RV shop now uses it.  You screw a “perline” to each of the interior sidewalls.  Maybe 8” from where the rear or back corner will fit.  Use a piece of 5/4 X 1 deck board.  Cut a 2” wide strip avout a foot long.  Screw it to the interior wall so that there is maybe 2 or 3” sticking up or above the top of the refrigerator.  Cut a piece of the decking about 1-1/2” wide and about 1/4” or less than the distance between the side walls.  Need two 2x4 blocks…maybe 8” long.  Sand the bottom (4” side) smooth.  Use 3M VHB double stick tape…CLEAR…it is stronger.  You put s layer of the tape on the bottom of each block.  NOTE….these blocks will be taped to TOP.  Whateve thickness you use….you have to have clearance so that if you ever remove the refrigerator, these blocks will have to SLIDE UNDER the front edge of the wood above the refrigerator….as you look at it from the insdie.  Make sure you understand that.

Insert the refrigerator….slide OUT of course.  Then, from the upper vent…may have to remove the sheetmetal “flue” that Monaco might have put in….you predrill maybe 2 or 3 holes through the 2” wide cross brace.  Put the cross brace in from the rear.  Lay it on top of the refrigerator.  Slide it forward until it (the crossbrace) contacts or is butted up against the two perlines on the side walls.  The brace is on rear….not against the front edges of the perlines (the interior side ).  NOW…peel off the other side of the double stick tape.  You are going to seat of tape or attach these blocks to the top.  Push down….hit a few times with a rubber mallet.  NOW, use 3” or 3-1/2” deck screws…..the crossbrace is predrilled.  You screw the crossbrace to the blocks.  That prevents it from going or moving forward.  

The rear brace is dealers choice.  You put 2x4 blocks or braces on the bottom to hold or wedge it in.  The 4” side is vertical.  Use some 90 deg angle brackets to hold in place.  NOTE….if Monaco still has a piece of the shelf that the Dometic’s sat on in place, remove it or use a 4” hole saw to allow air circulation.  I cut maybe 6 holes….works fine.  You MUST have air circulation from the very bottom of the unit.

That’s it.

 

 

Hey Tom! does our camelot have basement heating to keep water line from freezing. TY Steve