Carl Michael Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 The laminated window needs replaced. Has anyone have suggestions of how to proceed. I am bringing it to a window company and looking at how to remove it looks difficult. Thanks Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I don't know about a laminated window in a 2000 Sig, mine is a dual pane 3 part window but yes, the removal is a bit harder because of the clearance between the lower window frame and dash. I used a racheting wrench with a screwdriver tip inserted into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Michael Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 Thanks It probably is dual Pane. It fogs up a lot. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 12 minutes ago, Carl Michael said: The laminated window needs replaced. Has anyone have suggestions of how to proceed. I am bringing it to a window company and looking at how to remove it looks difficult. Thanks Carl I had to pull mine and have one panel replaced. I was sort of LUCKY and UNLUCKY. I got a "projectile" in a campground in Oregon in early July, 2018. It shattered the lower panel...or more precisely, the outer pane of the dual pane window. I used a copious amount of Gorilla Tape and was able to also reinforce it with horizontal staves of lightweight aluminum strapping from Lowes. I then drove over 2,300 miles to Elkhart (a planned trip or leg of our journey). I was able to contact the original supplier and they made up all new panels for the window. It was a three panel window with a sliding (up) section. I was fortunate in that their turn around was exactly the DAY that the shop, which was working on other items, completed their work. OK....PRACTICAL AND WHAT I LEARNED... As Ivan said, there MAY be screws in the lower (Front) corner and it looks like a MISSION IMPOSSIBLE task to get them out. Remember, Monaco installed the window FIRST....then the DASH. However, a small ratchet with a "hollow" 1/4" hex hole and a short (had to grind it down) #2 bit allowed the bottom (most forward) screw to be removed without pulling the dash. YES...IT LOOKED Daunting, but I had a tool like that with me and saw that IT could be done... WHEW. OK...then the SHOP TOOK OVER. The shop was run by an EX Monaco Supervisor and he KNEW what he was doing. PULL ALL THE INTERIOR SCREWS... Then start the removal. Do NOT BE SURPRISED....if it takes WAY MORE FORCE than you suspect and are NERVOUS about applying. There is a layer of sealer or Double Stick Tape attaching or holding the frame to the exterior side wall. ALSO...there MAY BE A GIFT from a Monaco Assembler. The shop foreman said it was really quite common...maybe more than 50% of the time, for the hole to be cut...."a little too small". SO, the Assembler used a BIG, lead shot loaded, RUBBER MALLET and proceeded to make the WINDOW "FIT" as in DRIVE IT IN. He said that you would see ONE corner of the window frame sort of "CRUNCHED" and that there would be a similar spot on the side wall. KEEP WORKING SLOWLY and break loose the tape and then work very slowly around the perimeter of the window...a smidge at a time and get it out. You WILL have to straighten the frame...once out. You WILL have to use a "tool", as in a big piece of steel and ball peen hammer and then sort of beat FURTHER IN the offending corner. You MUST get the opening to what was the intended size to keep from damaging the frame... You do NOT want to have to beat it back in place like it was first assembled. Your Glass Shop needs to know that there was NO MAGIC sealing of the interior space of the panes. Some have posted, erronously, that Monaco purchased SEALED panes (as in there was a Vacuum pulled on the panels and an inert gas like Nitrogen or Argon was injected so that the interior of the two panes were sealed and NO MOISTURE). I talked to the lady that ran the "OEM Glass Shop". She said that was false. All they did was put in the TWO panes and seal them...no vacuum like you will or may find on a residential two pane glass. The Shop will also have to match the TINT (Mine was ordered as an exact OEM replacement so it was tinted like the REST of the windows in the MH) and then have to be tempered. NOW, some of the aftermarket shops do NOT do this. There is one, well known, shop that has TINTED WINDSHIELD (Two Panes with a plastic liner) Panels. They then cut and FIT a new Windshield Glass instead of going through the process of measuring and replacing the two panes with standard tinted glass, then having them tinted or maybe tinted first. They have "determined" the amount of tint, so it matches. They will replace only ONE pane...but recommend that you do all THREE panes....as in you want to look the same. AND, they have to pull apart the window and totally disassemble....so it is easier if they replace all the panes. NOW, I watched the OEM Supplier's Techs work on my window. The panes were a PERFECT (dimensionally to the nearest 1/32") size of the OEM. I had all THREE. It took 3 techs about 2 hours to get it all back together. They DO NOT GRIND or "fit" the panes. They just keep assembling and disassembling and "whacking" and pushing and pulling until the frame goes back together and all the parts fit. They seemed to know what they are doing. The lady that ran the shop said that making NEW glass, cut exactly to the OEM Dimensions (They had all the prints on my glass and frame and window and such..._ was an ART....and they spent ONE DAY on one....one time. NOW... Your Glass Shop may use a different technique.... BUT, that is my experience.... Good Luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT Stephen Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 (edited) Carl, In addition to the information provided by @Tom Cherry, here is a good video to help you envision the process: Edited January 4 by CAT Stephen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 My drivers side sliding window got to the point that I could hardly see out of it, it was fogged up. Two other window were the same. There were several good posts on IRV2 that I used to do my own repair, this may not be DYI job depending on skills and/or how deep you pockets are. The drivers side window is pretty heavy, I didn't have a problem then but now 8 years later I'd probably need some help. I took the time to document it here, the first post pretty much has all the info you need. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT Stephen Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 @jacwjames, I'm having the same issue on my drivers side window How much time was required for you to DIY the repair of your drivers side window? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Two items: (1) If you have Full Glass Coverage on your insurance, they probably will replace it without cost to you as it is a visibility hazard. I had this done for both the three-piece, driver side and the entry door dual-pane windows. The $4 annual premium is absolutely the best investment in the entire world! At two other times I also was covered for a cracked MH windshield and a pitted windshield on my wife's car ($4 each for two separate policies) (2) I used Sun Coast Design in FL, was pleased with their work, they had overnight parking with electric, and both were done in the same day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 4 hours ago, CAT Stephen said: @jacwjames, I'm having the same issue on my drivers side window How much time was required for you to DIY the repair of your drivers side window? Probably a day, I wasn't in a rush and took quite a bit of time with 00000 steel wool and CLR to get the glass as clean of etching as possible. When I do projects like this I use it as an opportunity to buy a tool if I need it. Specifically I bought a battery powered caulk gun. Made applying the sealant much easier. Set it at a low setting. After I had mated the two pieces together I set it on a work bench on a 5 gallon bucket with an old towel on top and slowly spun it around while applying the caulk/sealant. Using the guide block it made a pretty good seal, just minor clean up and then let it dry to the touch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Michael Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Thanks for the info. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgecederholm Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I agree with the thoughts on using a ratcheting screwdriver bit, possibly modified to make it shorter, to get at the inside screws in the lower right corner if the dash is too close and interferes. I’ll also caution that some of the remaining screws might not be perfectly aligned. When I had my fogged windows “fixed” the first time, the tech really gouged the interior frame in several places with his driver bit by rubbing it right against the frame. I had to smooth out the rough spots as best I could and use some touch-up paint afterwards. If he had held a thin piece of sheet metal in place to protect the frame, this wouldn’t have happened. Probably the biggest lesson I learned is that many of the “fixes” may not last. Ours fogged up about 3 years after purchase and I had it “fixed” at Suncoast Designers, one of the first to promote “defogging”. Lasted 4-5 years, well past the limited warranty. Then I had it “fixed” by Coach Glass in Eugene. Another 4-5 years. By the time I was ready to address it again, Coach Glass had essentially abandoned the defogging approach and was promoting using dual-pane laminated glass (no space inside to fog up) with a longer warranty. It’s been fine since, but you need to make sure they replace the seal, not just reinstall the new glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Hmm, wonder what they used to make it only last 4-5 years. Job security? I resealed ours, 6 sections, in 2016/17 and no fogging yet. Used the DK Hardware stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Thomas Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 On 1/4/2024 at 10:24 AM, Tom Cherry said: I had to pull mine and have one panel replaced. I was sort of LUCKY and UNLUCKY. I got a "projectile" in a campground in Oregon in early July, 2018. It shattered the lower panel...or more precisely, the outer pane of the dual pane window. I used a copious amount of Gorilla Tape and was able to also reinforce it with horizontal staves of lightweight aluminum strapping from Lowes. I then drove over 2,300 miles to Elkhart (a planned trip or leg of our journey). I was able to contact the original supplier and they made up all new panels for the window. It was a three panel window with a sliding (up) section. I was fortunate in that their turn around was exactly the DAY that the shop, which was working on other items, completed their work. OK....PRACTICAL AND WHAT I LEARNED... As Ivan said, there MAY be screws in the lower (Front) corner and it looks like a MISSION IMPOSSIBLE task to get them out. Remember, Monaco installed the window FIRST....then the DASH. However, a small ratchet with a "hollow" 1/4" hex hole and a short (had to grind it down) #2 bit allowed the bottom (most forward) screw to be removed without pulling the dash. YES...IT LOOKED Daunting, but I had a tool like that with me and saw that IT could be done... WHEW. OK...then the SHOP TOOK OVER. The shop was run by an EX Monaco Supervisor and he KNEW what he was doing. PULL ALL THE INTERIOR SCREWS... Then start the removal. Do NOT BE SURPRISED....if it takes WAY MORE FORCE than you suspect and are NERVOUS about applying. There is a layer of sealer or Double Stick Tape attaching or holding the frame to the exterior side wall. ALSO...there MAY BE A GIFT from a Monaco Assembler. The shop foreman said it was really quite common...maybe more than 50% of the time, for the hole to be cut...."a little too small". SO, the Assembler used a BIG, lead shot loaded, RUBBER MALLET and proceeded to make the WINDOW "FIT" as in DRIVE IT IN. He said that you would see ONE corner of the window frame sort of "CRUNCHED" and that there would be a similar spot on the side wall. KEEP WORKING SLOWLY and break loose the tape and then work very slowly around the perimeter of the window...a smidge at a time and get it out. You WILL have to straighten the frame...once out. You WILL have to use a "tool", as in a big piece of steel and ball peen hammer and then sort of beat FURTHER IN the offending corner. You MUST get the opening to what was the intended size to keep from damaging the frame... You do NOT want to have to beat it back in place like it was first assembled. Your Glass Shop needs to know that there was NO MAGIC sealing of the interior space of the panes. Some have posted, erronously, that Monaco purchased SEALED panes (as in there was a Vacuum pulled on the panels and an inert gas like Nitrogen or Argon was injected so that the interior of the two panes were sealed and NO MOISTURE). I talked to the lady that ran the "OEM Glass Shop". She said that was false. All they did was put in the TWO panes and seal them...no vacuum like you will or may find on a residential two pane glass. The Shop will also have to match the TINT (Mine was ordered as an exact OEM replacement so it was tinted like the REST of the windows in the MH) and then have to be tempered. NOW, some of the aftermarket shops do NOT do this. There is one, well known, shop that has TINTED WINDSHIELD (Two Panes with a plastic liner) Panels. They then cut and FIT a new Windshield Glass instead of going through the process of measuring and replacing the two panes with standard tinted glass, then having them tinted or maybe tinted first. They have "determined" the amount of tint, so it matches. They will replace only ONE pane...but recommend that you do all THREE panes....as in you want to look the same. AND, they have to pull apart the window and totally disassemble....so it is easier if they replace all the panes. NOW, I watched the OEM Supplier's Techs work on my window. The panes were a PERFECT (dimensionally to the nearest 1/32") size of the OEM. I had all THREE. It took 3 techs about 2 hours to get it all back together. They DO NOT GRIND or "fit" the panes. They just keep assembling and disassembling and "whacking" and pushing and pulling until the frame goes back together and all the parts fit. They seemed to know what they are doing. The lady that ran the shop said that making NEW glass, cut exactly to the OEM Dimensions (They had all the prints on my glass and frame and window and such..._ was an ART....and they spent ONE DAY on one....one time. NOW... Your Glass Shop may use a different technique.... BUT, that is my experience.... Good Luck... Tom your right about replacing all three panels . I have 2002 Windsor my sliding glass panel is fogged up, so about 4 years ago I stopped in to a glass company in Kent narrows Md. they were going to charge me 1200 dollars.They would remove my whole window unit make a template reinstall the window unit give me a call when it came in remove the window unit and install new glass and install.I should of taken them up on it but now they don’t work on RV’S they refer me to another place and they want to replace all of the windows (3) and their reason is in case one breaks while removing.I never got a price because I knew it would be to expensive. I’ve tried in my area can’t find anyone else I live in delaware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 2 hours ago, Wayne Thomas said: Tom your right about replacing all three panels . I have 2002 Windsor my sliding glass panel is fogged up, so about 4 years ago I stopped in to a glass company in Kent narrows Md. they were going to charge me 1200 dollars.They would remove my whole window unit make a template reinstall the window unit give me a call when it came in remove the window unit and install new glass and install.I should of taken them up on it but now they don’t work on RV’S they refer me to another place and they want to replace all of the windows (3) and their reason is in case one breaks while removing.I never got a price because I knew it would be to expensive. I’ve tried in my area can’t find anyone else I live in delaware If you are somewhat a DYI'er you can do it yourself but you'll need help getting the window out. Once out the frame is held together with screws. I did not take the drivers side window completely apart, just enough to to get the slider window out, the rest weren't fogged. I provided a link to when I did mine ~8 years ago. I can't remember the total cost but it wasn't much, I did 3 windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis.mcdonaugh Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 (edited) I removed and repaired the slider on my 2000 Dynasty. It cost me around $100 in supplies and took a little over 4 hours of actual work. Here's my thread on iRV2. I took it out by myself, its not hard, but make sure the window is locked, otherwise it'll slide and that change of balance can surprise you. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/2000-dynasty-drivers-side-window-334706.html Edited January 7 by dennis.mcdonaugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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