martinsimba Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 No leaks that I know of from my windshield in my new to me Safari Simba 07, however, I would like to scrap off whatever is there and reseal around the top of the windshield. The manual says use black silicone sealant for small areas or imperfections around the windshield and black urethane for windshield installation. Not sure which to use and how to remove whatever is there. Appreciate your wisdom, TIA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 (edited) the right tool looks like a scoop that is sharp that you insert into the urethane and pull to cut out the chunk of Urethane. https://www.gtglass.com/products/razorscraper-anti-scratch-winged-windshield-urethane-scraper-blade Then you clean with Prepsol. Then a primer specific to the new urethane. Then cut the nozzle on the urethane so it provides a smooth caulk joint (unlike whoever hacked yours) and put a smooth bead. Then, use a gloved finger and tool / smooth the urethane into the joint and make it cosmetic. Edited February 29 by DavidL 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 DO NOT use anything with silicone around the windshield gasket! If / when you need a windshield replacement, the shop doing the install will appreciate it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LakeBob Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 2 hours ago, DavidL said: the right tool looks like a scoop that is sharp that you insert into the urethane and pull to cut out the chunk of Urethane. https://www.gtglass.com/products/razorscraper-anti-scratch-winged-windshield-urethane-scraper-blade Then you clean with Prepsol. Then a primer specific to the new urethane. Then cut the nozzle on the urethane so it provides a smooth caulk joint (unlike whoever hacked yours) and put a smooth bead. Then, use a gloved finger and tool / smooth the urethane into the joint and make it cosmetic. Agree with all the above, gloves and old clothes, I strongly recommend a good caulk gun such as , Red Devil 3989 9" Extreme Duty Caulk Gun - Thrust Ratio 26:1,Black as the urethane is quite thick, and put the tube in the sun to warm up if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Wightman Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 I agree with DavidL, the only thing to add is to have mineral sprits on hand, a lot of rags, and rolls of blue tape. Having done this kind of work many times, put the blue tape on at the point where you don't want the urethane to get on your paint (it wants to go everywhere), carefully apply the caulking as if there was no blue tape there, tool with mineral spirits on your hand/glove. When all the caulk is installed immediately remove the blue tape and clean any excess with rags soaked with mineral spirits. I have found that this method creates a nice clean line that looks like the windshield gasket just extends onto the paint surface and stops any potential or current leaks. This method also works for belt line seal & slide out panel caulking failures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 The 2009 Camelot’s used BOSTIK #1100. The 3M cross reference is 3M #540. I would replace with a similar Urethane based product. Never use a Silicone caulk on an RV. The UV will destroy it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Put the tube of caulk in a bucket of HOT water for a bit. It's sooooo much easier to apply and work with. I put the caulk tube in the gun, hang over the top of and in the bucket. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinsimba Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 Tom, Would I need a primer with the 3M #540? A friend recommended the following because you don't need to prime: Sealant Windshield Urethane Glue Sikaflex P2G Primerless Adhesive Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 1 hour ago, martinsimba said: Tom, Would I need a primer with the 3M #540? A friend recommended the following because you don't need to prime: Sealant Windshield Urethane Glue Sikaflex P2G Primerless Adhesive Thank you! https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/569029O/3m-500-series-polyurethane-sealant-data-sheet.pdf If you get the metal and the original rubber cleaned properly, then no. I don't have any information or experience with the Sikaflex materials. My manual had a specific callout for the material and I cross referenced it. As to cleaning, I'd go easy and get all the old caulk off using mineral spirits and scraping. I have successfully used WD-40 to soften up adhesives in the past. My usual procedure is to soften the adhesive and scrap it off. Then I wash the surfaces with a mild detergent mix of Dawn dishwashing soap and water and rinse. Then, I "activate" the surfaces with acetone. Some GASP at this. It is a matter of being careful. I use a cotton rag with the acetone applied to it and wipe off the excess material. At that point, any of the left over adhesive will be sort of "gummy" and not really an issue. BUT, I do get all of the adhesive off and down to bare metal or bare rubber. Then apply the new sealer and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinsimba Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 Now I am dazed and confused,LOL. After scraping off the black substance fairly easily, it is paint underneath and I am not sure it is urethane there above the gasket where I am working. The window appears to be "Floating" in the gasket. As per the manual, there are 3 choices highlighted that are recommended, silicone, urethane and acrylic-please see the manual picture and I appreciate any thoughts. IMG_3751.HEIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 The unsightly black mass on the lip of your gasket is most likely someone's failed attempt to seal a loose leaky gasket. When I had my windshield replaced, Coach Glass sent me tubes of black Bostik 70-08A Windshield Adhesive. The installers only used a tiny bit of one tube to seal where the gasket seemed loose from the body opening. None on the glass itself. Not over the lip like in your picture but he lifted the gasket lip and ran it between the rubber and body. None of the sealant is visible after cleanup. BTW, I would think that there should also be a gutter strip over the top and partial sides tightly sealed to the windshield gasket. I can't find a link for the one I have right now but surely someone would know a source. And I don't use silicon anywhere except maybe around the bathroom counter top. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveD Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 I would not use Sykaflex on anything unless you want it there forever. We use it in our sand plant to glue rubber in place and once it sets it will not let go. Extremely hard to clean up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 44 minutes ago, SteveD said: I would not use Sykaflex on anything unless you want it there forever. We use it in our sand plant to glue rubber in place and once it sets it will not let go. Extremely hard to clean up. I used black Sikaflex (can't recall the number) around my passenger side window. Super nice product to install, with plenty of time before the skin hardens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveD Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 I agree works great. It is extremely hard to remove. I used it to glue down solar panel mounts to the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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