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New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF


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Hello all,

We are about to take ownership (end of June) of a one owner 2016 Monaco Diplomat 43DF with 31,000 miles in Orlando FL.  This is our first diesel motorhome, having sold our 2022 Thor Windsport 34J to move up in the motorhome world.

I am feeling a bit overwhelmed having NO experience with running a diesel truck or MH, so any suggestions and tricks / tips to running the rig and figuring out the engine brake usage would be very helpful.  I suspect  that I might be a frequent poster looking for help from much more experienced Monaco Diplomat owners!

We both still work, though I could retire if I wanted to, but at least we both work remotely, so we can gt out on the road more often and for longer periods of time.

Thanks for welcoming to the community.  We look forward to getting out of the Southeast heading north, west, and up the East Coast with our 'new to us' Monaco Diplomat. 

Chuck and Kathy

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Congrat's on the new purchase!

I'll start with a couple of simple recommendations.

Limit idle time! Modern emissions engines don't like to spend a lot of time idling! Use HI-idle when possible (1000+ rpm)

Use your exhaust brake frequently. The turbo actuator likes to go thru it's full movement frequently!

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You are in a bit of "uncharted" territory...but we can help.  The 2016 Diplomat may be a little (a LOT???) different from the Diplomats that most have here.

OK....curiosity.  Pulled the Sales Brochure.  That Critter is interesting and also NOT your Granddaddy's Diplomat... YES, I've waited a LONG time to use that line.

SO, for YOU...as well as the other members...

It is a cross between the OLD Diplomat, the OLD Camelot and also a few THINGS from the Old Dynasty.

https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/user/1476904390_brc_pdf.pdf

It has the Freightliner "NEW ROADMASTER" Chassis. SO any comments about the OLD Roadmaster Chassis are totally OFF BASE.  This is the NEW REV version.

It DOES have a TWO STAGE Jake (assuming that) exhaust Brake. That was NOT a standard on the Camelot or Diplomat.  THAT WILL BE NICE....USE IT...save your service brakes.

It does NOT appear to have any "proprietary" Systems..  as in the OLDER Intelltiec Internal House Multiplex (MPX) CPU or Computer Controlled system.  For simplicity, the "has WALL SWITCHES" should be simpler, more robust and easier to FIX/Troubleshoot.  SO, never read about the Intellitec MPX system...yours has it NOT.

The rest are pretty straight forward.  Has a "Sani whatever" dump system.

Has an AquaHOT.  GOOD DEAL....the old Dip's I think, never had that.  Only the Camelot's  We DO have a LOT of AH resources and help here.

I would PESTER or even THREATEN REV to get you a set of WIRING DIAGRAMS.  BE A PAIN.  You need them.  We don't, I think have any.  YOU WILL, without fear of contradiction, NEED THEM.  TRUST ME and the OTHER folks on that.

NEXT.  We were ALL NEW to DP's  Yes... this is a different world...  BUT, you do have the Cummins ISL(9...whatever that is)....so we DO speak a LOT of Cummin's here.  Your Emissions are different. 

BEST ADVICE...  First, was there a REV DVD for an owner?  CALL and ask and get that if it disappeared.  WATCH  Take NOTES....replay.

Now....take a VOW.  READ THAT MANUAL.  Don't do it all in a day.  There are many sections (say 10 or more).  Devote ONE WEEK to each section.  READ and LEARN (you don't have to spend a LOT of time on the INTERIOR Cleaning...turn that over the the REAL Captain).

BUT, every section is important.  The MORE you read...the better. You DO need to spend time walking around with the manual and look at EVERY DIAGRAM or FIGURE.  This is a REV manual.....

I would download it from the site and put it on my laptop.  Go to MonacoCoach.com or Google..  Download the Sales Brochure.  IT IS INVALUABLE...  Then download the manual.  I often, as in every week, use the PDF.

FINALLY, there SHOULD (and this is REV...NOT guaranteed) be a LIST of every major Component in it.  Monaco had one.  It is called the BUILD SHEET or the RVIA DATA CARD.  It has the Model and SN of EVERY major item.  Every TIRE was listed.  All the HVAC units, microwave, inverter...whatever...  If you can't find it...sometimes in a clear folder in a closet...then BUG REV.

FINALLY.  NEVER LET ANY TIRE DEALER SET THE Tire Pressure.  There is a DATA plate near the driver's area for the TIRES.  I am OLD FASHIONED.  I use the long metal Trucker's Gauge.  it correlates and is accurate with my TPMS.  Set the Tire Pressure early in the AM...before the SUN hits the tires.  Set them to the recommended value.  The TAG adjustment is usually around 40 PSI.

Read the section on WEIGHING and then get it weighed...with your permament Stuff and what you would carry.  Have a full tank of fuel and fresh water.  Include the passengers...  The instructions are in the manual.  THE EASIEST...  Find a SCALE with a flat pad...not elevated.  You need one WITHOUT guard rails or only ONE on one side.  Drive on and maneuver and get each axle weight....that is BOTH sides or tires on the pads...but separated for each of the three axles.  THEN drive back ON...but have ONE side off the pads.  Then reweigh.  Subtract...NOW you have the corner or individual Tire weights.  Then look at the tire inflation tables (online) and set your TIRE pressure. You will PROBABLY find it is close to the MAX.  The TP on the data plate are MAX TP for the rated loads.

 

 

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Hey Tom,

Thank you for the very in-depth review of the build sheet.  I did get it from the gent at the dealership that is finishing prepping it for us to pick up later this month.

In looking at the build sheet and the MSRP sheet (attached to this reply) for this unit, it seems as if the original owner had almost all of the options in the build sheet included except for the  dual recliners and the facing dinette.  Most everything else is in the order sheet, including the 'waste management pump' thingy (whatever that is; I'm thinking that it's the macerator for the black tank drain line). 

We do have the 2 piece ladder and window awnings on the passenger side.  Also, we have the dishwasher, front overhead TV, and electric fireplace.  We also have 2 slide out trays in the garage for both storage areas.

I will check with the owner if they have a DVD and then contact REV to try and run one down, as well as the wiring diagrams.  I am ALL ABOUT reading manuals, so the 'VOW' is taken and ingrained in my frontal cortex!

Part of the dealer repairs prior to taking delivery is that they have replaced all 6 house batteries, all 8 tires, the driver's side window due to it being fogged, will have to replace the step motor, and they are still working on the front passenger slide (not working well).

More to come as I work my way through your list of MUST DO's! 

Thanks again for your suggestions and input!

Quote

 

s

IMG_6698.jpeg

8 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Learn about your new airbrake system!

Take a course if at all possible!

That's VERY high on my list of first things to do.  That, and the engine brake is the most concerning thing to me since it's the one thing that I have no clue about.

I'm thinking that I need a full training course on this thing.  Anyone in the Orlando / Central Florida area that might like to train a newbie?? 🥴

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Hello @Chuck-Kathy_Orlando,

 

Welcome to the forum!

With the age and mileage of your coach, it is highly probable that you may need new tires because tires age out at ~7 years as they becomes brittle and subject to unexpected failure.  Front axle tire failures can be deadly due to loss of coach control.  Rear axle tire failures are an inconvenience.  Because of the dangerous nature of steer axle tire failures, it is very customary for prior owners to replace the steer (i.e. front) tires early, so you may have newer tires on your steer axle.  In any case, you should check all of your tires for date codes.

Inspect the last two (2) digits of your tires DOT date codes for the year.  If the year indicated is earlier than "17", then it is time to replace your tires. 

Here is more information on tire DOT codes:

https://danthetireman.com/blog/article/how-to-read-tire-date-codes-what-do-tire-dot-numbers-mean

 

All diesel engines have two characteristics in common: 

  • They must stabilize and cool exhaust gas temperatures before shutdown.  Thus, you must let your diesel engine idle for three minutes after road use and before engine shutdown to avoid extreme temperature induced component failures such as coking (not cooking) of the oil inside of your engines turbo charger.
  • They must be fully warmed up before operating at full capacity.  Avoid operation beyond ~50% throttle until your diesel engine is fully warmed up.  Warm up times vary according to ambient temperature and driving conditions, so check your engine temperature gage.
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24 minutes ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

Hey Tom,

Thank you for the very in-depth review of the build sheet.  I did get it from the gent at the dealership that is finishing prepping it for us to pick up later this month.

In looking at the build sheet and the MSRP sheet (attached to this reply) for this unit, it seems as if the original owner had almost all of the options in the build sheet included except for the  dual recliners and the facing dinette.  Most everything else is in the order sheet, including the 'waste management pump' thingy (whatever that is; I'm thinking that it's the macerator for the black tank drain line). 

We do have the 2 piece ladder and window awnings on the passenger side.  Also, we have the dishwasher, front overhead TV, and electric fireplace.  We also have 2 slide out trays in the garage for both storage areas.

I will check with the owner if they have a DVD and then contact REV to try and run one down, as well as the wiring diagrams.  I am ALL ABOUT reading manuals, so the 'VOW' is taken and ingrained in my frontal cortex!

Part of the dealer repairs prior to taking delivery is that they have replaced all 6 house batteries, all 8 tires, the driver's side window due to it being fogged, will have to replace the step motor, and they are still working on the front passenger slide (not working well).

More to come as I work my way through your list of MUST DO's! 

Thanks again for your suggestions and input!

s

IMG_6698.jpeg

That's VERY high on my list of first things to do.  That, and the engine brake is the most concerning thing to me since it's the one thing that I have no clue about.

I'm thinking that I need a full training course on this thing.  Anyone in the Orlando / Central Florida area that might like to train a newbie?? 🥴

lazy days in Tampa used to have a FREEBIE, may charge now, driving course.  It was, IIRC, free to folks in the CG or having work done.

Might look into it.

Exhaust Brake lesson.  I use the Exhaust brake as a supplement to my usual driving (Car) practice.  I decelerate by LETTING OFF THE ACCELERATOR.  Unfortunately, trying to instill that in my DW and my GK and one Kid was a loss.  SO, let off the accelerator.  

I was trained WAY BACK WHEN.  You tap or feather the brakes.  SAME DEAL.  NEVER jamb on them.  In city traffic, SOMETIMES, I will leave the exhaust brake on.  I only have the VGT or Turbine Brake.  Your system is MUCH MORE effective...it works off the Intake or Head and has two positions...HIGH and LOW.  READ up on it.

Never, EVER, let anyone tell you....Run that sucker all the time.  That is a great way for expensive engine repairs...

SO..  If it is a long stretch and I am going down an interstate at say 62 MPH (my sweet spot for economy) and I have an exit ahead, I let off on the accelerator....and then when I get a bit closer, I engage the Exhaust Brake.  That will then downshift the Allison and I usually coast into the ramp or the rest stop.  Using my service brakes if necessary.

If there is a MAJOR Stop and Roll event on an interstate highway or such or a bypass around a large city...  I leave the Exhaust Brake ON...

NOW, never RUN with the Exhaust Brake ON with the cruise.  That takes about 10% off your economy.  Yours MAY be configured so that when you are ON CRUISE, and engage the exhaust brake, the cruise is cancelled.  MINE doesn't so I have to be aware.

When you are driving in any hilly terrain...I might have the Cruise on...and when I start to descend..  I then DISENGAGE the Cruise...and use the Exhaust brake. The HIGH position, and OTHERS will chime in, is for steep grades.

Never even THINK about using the CRUISE when climbing.  Keep the RPM up. You will SOON learn that manual shifting of the Allison is an acquired skill set. When starting up a grade....start to downshift when the engine RPM gets down to about 1600 or so...or that is MY rule.  You can NOT overrev the ENGINE.  The Tranny and ECM and Cummins prevents that. The TOP RPM on acceleration is probably 2100 or so...but you will see HIGHER RPM's going down.  NORMAL.

I use a combination of manually gearing down going down a grade as well as the Exhaust brake.  As I said, mine is NOT as effective, so you will have less issues.

That's it...

Good Luck.

LEARN and READ about the Allison.  There is an ECONOMY Mode. and a Standard or Performance Mode. The economy shifts quicker around town...but the final 5 - 6 shift is fixed.  I run around 62 - 63 on the Interstate and stay over and enjoy the ride.  Your TIRES are NOT rated for 70 for any sustained speeds.

I keep mine in the ECONOMY mode on the highway.  I use the Cruise. When you start UP a slight grade and use the Standard or Performance, the Allison will shift quickly DOWN to 5.  NOT GOOD.  BUT, if you have it in Economy, you will get several MPH and it will shift, say 3 -4 MPH lower.  SO, you roll along and you will save gas.

you WILL learn WHERE to set the Cruise so you stay in 6 longer...sometimes I have to bump up, on rolling terrain to say 64...but I get better fuel economy.

YES... LOTS of things to learn.  One DAY at a TIME...

FWIW. Order a Bottle of JF BioBor from Amazon. Use the FIRST Time dose and treat the tank. I use it religiously....from DAY ONE. A Cummins Tech Support person told me that was KEY to keeping the engine running. You do the 2X or Shock treatment....then do the normal dosage after that. I have NEVER had an issue with ALGAE in the tank. it is a COMMON problem in humid weather.  Always fuel up around half.  The Generator Tube is a bit higher than the main fuel. The Gauges are notoriously WRONG. you will soon learn what the GPM is.  THEN always stop and never put in less than 60 Gallons.  You have a large fuel tank...150 Gallons.  Mine is only 135... so, you can probably use the 60 or more rule.  Many will stop and do 50, just to take a break...

That way you NEVER run out of fuel. You NEVER, EVER want to run so low that you have to have a service come and air bleed the engine.  same for the GENNY.  Using common sense and being aware that the gauge is on a REFERENCE and planning your stops on miles and MPG is a common practice...

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One thing not yet mentioned is to do a very thorough walk through of everything in and on the coach to make sure everything works as it should before signing off. If needed take videos as your memory is not as good as you think ( my assumption). Examples: the hot water must work in all heating modes; the generator must work and run for at least 10 minutes before it is turned off; all the rooftop a/c’s must work and operate at the same time; how to operate coach leveling; etc. 

In addition, you probably need an upgraded drivers license as most states require this for a combined weight exceeding 26,000 lbs. Some states call it a ‘Class B’, others refer to it as ’Non-commercial CDL’. You should check this and determine if it applies to you in your home state. 

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@Chuck-Kathy_Orlando Our 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor is the sister to the Diplomat (like Mercury-Ford) but yours is nothing like ours.  Nice find!

There's a Monaco "Gathering" usually each year that, when I was a new owner, found eye opening.  It had been held at Lazy Day's Tampa RV Resort until they rebuilt the clubhouse / camping facility (I'm a little foggy on the details).  Looks like it's back open again but, as with many great grass root endeavors, is put together by volunteers like @Scotty Hutto (who happens to live 400 miles from Tampa).  Seminars are presented by industry experts and Monacoer members alike, plus you get face time with some really great knowledgeable people.  For a diesel pusher newbie it should be a top priority.

The exhaust brake is easy to figure out.  I keep a finger on the switch while in traffic and use it extensively whenever you need to slow down.  With it enabled "on" just let of the throttle and it engages and slows the coach, like downshifting a 1968 muscle car.  Highly recommended when exiting interstate to save the service / air brakes . . . and down mountain grades! 

Keep an eye on the water levels in your new batteries.  With a residential fridge if you're boondocking you'll be recharging the coach batteries often. 

If you plan on driving much consider the TSD Open Roads Fuel Program https://www.tsdlogistics.com/services/fuel-program/  for discount diesel fuel.  I just fueled ours where Love's was charging $3.74 and my net cost was $3.19.  This is typical.  They have a Facebook group also.  There's no sign-up fee, you fuel in the truck lanes (high speed pumps, EZ in-out).  Some people don't like using a checking account or submitting their SSN.  But it's not a golden ticket - always compare with Sam's Club / Costco, Buc-ee's, etc. (really slow pumps).  And while Buc-ee's will save you a few bucks at the pump NOBODY gets out of the store without spending at least $50. 

What people say about tire pressures is critical.  If you don't have a TPMS system get one.  Ours is the TireMinder but I believe there are better units out there - our sensors keep going bad and they're $30 each.  Corner weighing the coach as Tom described is best.  Always add a cushion amount of psi. 

Welcome to the Monaco family!

- bob

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1 hour ago, CAT Stephen said:

Hello @Chuck-Kathy_Orlando,

 

Welcome to the forum!

With the age and mileage of your coach, it is highly probable that you may need new tires because tires age out at ~7 years as they becomes brittle and subject to unexpected failure.  Front axle tire failures can be deadly due to loss of coach control.  Rear axle tire failures are an inconvenience.  Because of the dangerous nature of steer axle tire failures, it is very customary for prior owners to replace the steer (i.e. front) tires early, so you may have newer tires on your steer axle.  In any case, you should check all of your tires for date codes.

Inspect the last two (2) digits of your tires DOT date codes for the year.  If the year indicated is earlier than "17", then it is time to replace your tires. 

Here is more information on tire DOT codes:

https://danthetireman.com/blog/article/how-to-read-tire-date-codes-what-do-tire-dot-numbers-mean

 

All diesel engines have two characteristics in common: 

  • They must stabilize and cool exhaust gas temperatures before shutdown.  Thus, you must let your diesel engine idle for three minutes after road use and before engine shutdown to avoid extreme temperature induced component failures such as coking (not cooking) of the oil inside of your engines turbo charger.
  • They must be fully warmed up before operating at full capacity.  Avoid operation beyond ~50% throttle until your diesel engine is fully warmed up.  Warm up times vary according to ambient temperature and driving conditions, so check your engine temperature gage.

Hey CAT!  Thank you for the great list of suggestions.  The dealer has replaced ALL tires on the rig, so I know I have brand new Michelin's, as per my agreement to purchase the rig. I have known for years to replace tires either when they wear out, or age out, whichever comes first.

I was wondering about the warm up and cool down cycle.  A friend of mine has a diesel truck and he told me a long time ago, you just can't get into it and go like a gas engine.  Thanks for the info. You all are really helping me to get over that initial fear of the unknown factor.

1 hour ago, Martinvz said:

One thing not yet mentioned is to do a very thorough walk through of everything in and on the coach to make sure everything works as it should before signing off. If needed take videos as your memory is not as good as you think ( my assumption). Examples: the hot water must work in all heating modes; the generator must work and run for at least 10 minutes before it is turned off; all the rooftop a/c’s must work and operate at the same time; how to operate coach leveling; etc. 

In addition, you probably need an upgraded drivers license as most states require this for a combined weight exceeding 26,000 lbs. Some states call it a ‘Class B’, others refer to it as ’Non-commercial CDL’. You should check this and determine if it applies to you in your home state. 

Great info!   In Florida, we don't have a need for an updated / upgraded DL as long as it's for personal - non-commercial use.   RV's are especially exempted.  However, I will reconfirm since I only checked based on my 36 ft gas motorhome with a GVWR of 26,000.

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5 hours ago, cbr046 said:

@Chuck-Kathy_Orlando Our 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor is the sister to the Diplomat (like Mercury-Ford) but yours is nothing like ours.  Nice find!

There's a Monaco "Gathering" usually each year that, when I was a new owner, found eye opening.  It had been held at Lazy Day's Tampa RV Resort until they rebuilt the clubhouse / camping facility (I'm a little foggy on the details).  Looks like it's back open again but, as with many great grass root endeavors, is put together by volunteers like @Scotty Hutto (who happens to live 400 miles from Tampa).  Seminars are presented by industry experts and Monacoer members alike, plus you get face time with some really great knowledgeable people.  For a diesel pusher newbie it should be a top priority.

The exhaust brake is easy to figure out.  I keep a finger on the switch while in traffic and use it extensively whenever you need to slow down.  With it enabled "on" just let of the throttle and it engages and slows the coach, like downshifting a 1968 muscle car.  Highly recommended when exiting interstate to save the service / air brakes . . . and down mountain grades! 

Keep an eye on the water levels in your new batteries.  With a residential fridge if you're boondocking you'll be recharging the coach batteries often. 

If you plan on driving much consider the TSD Open Roads Fuel Program https://www.tsdlogistics.com/services/fuel-program/  for discount diesel fuel.  I just fueled ours where Love's was charging $3.74 and my net cost was $3.19.  This is typical.  They have a Facebook group also.  There's no sign-up fee, you fuel in the truck lanes (high speed pumps, EZ in-out).  Some people don't like using a checking account or submitting their SSN.  But it's not a golden ticket - always compare with Sam's Club / Costco, Buc-ee's, etc. (really slow pumps).  And while Buc-ee's will save you a few bucks at the pump NOBODY gets out of the store without spending at least $50. 

What people say about tire pressures is critical.  If you don't have a TPMS system get one.  Ours is the TireMinder but I believe there are better units out there - our sensors keep going bad and they're $30 each.  Corner weighing the coach as Tom described is best.  Always add a cushion amount of psi. 

Welcome to the Monaco family!

- bob

These are some pictures from the day that we decided to buy the unit.  I only have a couple of outside pix, as my wife has all the inside ones.

It appears (or so we were told) that the previous owner kept it under cover the entire time he owned it while in storage.  The coach looks very good, except for the diamond shield on the front, which is being removed.  The paint is good, so I think we have found a pretty good coach.

They have installed new tires all the way around and replace the 6 house batteries.  They are still working on fixing the steps, front passenger slide isn't working all that great, and replacing the power cord (not all that good of shape from what I could tell).  Maybe I can have them replace the plug since I think the cord is ok, but the plug isn't all that good.

 

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IMG_5770.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

That all bathroom behind your rear slide?

The back end of the unit (above the engine) is a walk in closet and the bathroom takes up from the back end of the slide to just past the rear window.  Yeah, there's a pretty big bathroom and walk in shower back there.

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You can replace the plug yourself.  Amazon has them.  Camco 50 Amp RV Plug.  You need Dow Corning Insulating Compound.  #4 or #5...memory.

The PLUG will be a accident waiting to happen.  It is the weak link. The terminals and cable are crimped.  Mine got a light tap (the strut pushed out the bay door). That hit the plug just right. I lost my NEUTRAL. You do NOT WANT AN OPEN NEUTRAL.  It will destroy every 120 VAC device. The voltage on each line will ramp up to over 175 VAC. One of our member spent over $20K on repairs.

The plug needs to be replaced and tightened down. LEAVE IT ALONE for a week or two or use it for a while. After a few times of being plugged in or "handled" or used, then retighten EVERY connection. Fill the cavity of the Plug with the Dow Insulating compound. IT will cure out and be better than the MOLDED one.

If the MH does NOT have an internal Surge Suppressor (your build sheet might list) then it is recommended that you have one installed.  I like the Progressive HW50C.  Older Technology..but works and you can do field repairs. There are NEWER styles and they are fancy and talk to your  phone.  Just a matter of being in business for 20 or so years versus new kids on the block.

Either WAY....you need or we recommend a SURGE Suppressor.  It will prevent brown outs and also make sure the CG pedestal is OK.

Any ISSUES with a line cord or PLUG....REPLACE THE PLUG

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I also have the Progressive Surge protector.

If I was shopping today, I'd buy the Hughes Watchdog! Nice feature keeping track of your amp hours since plugging in!

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10 hours ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

They have installed new tires all the way around and replace the 6 house batteries

That is great that they put new tires and batteries on for you. Two major items you don’t have to worry about. Very nice looking rig!

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10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

If you want to see ALL of the photos, inside and out, here is the RVTrader ad listing with the photos.

Great looking coach!

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2016-Monaco+Rv-Diplomat+43DF-5032153897

Thanks for the kind words! We're looking forward to getting it and starting our next RV journey with what we have been looking for for quite some time!

12 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

That is great that they put new tires and batteries on for you. Two major items you don’t have to worry about. Very nice looking rig!

Thanks Mike!  We do have to take it to a place in Tampa as they have to have the driver's window replaced since it's fogged up and by state law, they have to have it replaced as it's a safety issue.

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11 hours ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

We do have to take it to a place in Tampa as they have to have the driver's window replaced since it's fogged up and by state law, they have to have it replaced as it's a safety issue.

I've read there are people / places that will "defog" a window by disassembling it, cleaning, resealing and reassembling the window.  The cleaning is more that just a Windex approach.  You can do it yourself if you're handy.  Me, I'm too chicken. 

The Sun plays havoc on a fogged window.  If I don't have a clear view I'll open the window in a heartbeat.

- bob

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There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

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24 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

Actually, the dealer will be paying for it to be fixed, but we'll be taking to have the work done.  We agreed to that stipulation.  There are a couple of other windows that we may have fixed that are also fogged up, but since they weren't a safety issue, that will be on our nickel.

 

24 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

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I don't know what you paid, but you seem to have a very good dealer, who is taking care of all the issues with your coach.
Sounds like you'll have a great experience, and have a relatively trouble-free coach when you take delivery.

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