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I am preparing some area on the roof to mount struct channel, looks like the previous owner has painted the roof really good. some area even remove 1/8" or even more white stuff before I see the red roof.
I am starting to question what I removed, did it white stuff I removed were paint or fiber glass. if those white stuff are paint/primer, the previous owner must have dumped 50 gallons of paint/primer on the roof.
I actually used a planner , it just took too much time to remove by power sander. from the material it doesn't look like primer/paint, but if it is fiberglass, how come it is not red, does Dynasty has two layer color for the roof, white on top and red under?
Please advise.
Thank you.

 

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Edited by John C
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You have a one piece fiberglass roof. It appears you have scraped it down to the wood material underneath. 

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I wouldn't think that he sanded down to plywood,  but sanded off the gel coat down to the fiberglass. Seems a little extreme either way unless he is planning on glassing in the "struct channel "

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I worked at a business that built refrigerated trucks, spent a summer in the fiberglass department doing an internship while I was getting my MS Industrial Engineering.   The process of building one of the larger pieces was to take a large form, spry a chemical release chemical, spray down the gel coat, then multiple layers of woven fiberglass and epoxy.   After it cured the piece was separated from the form.  The result was  smooth finished side with a fiberglass body. 

I believe Monaco used the same process and made the roof in one piece. 

So what you've done is sand completely through the gel coat and you are in the fiberglass/epoxy portion.  Hopefully you did not take too much of the fiberglass and epoxy, if you did you've seriously compromised the strength of the roof IMHO.  

Not sure what options you have, at minium putting layer of gelcoat down, but you might consider a layer of fiberglass mat and epoxy before the gelcoat. 

Or you could go ahead and attach the channel that is in the picture to the roof as you are doing the above, using epoxy/mat on either side and then paint it. 

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Posted (edited)

OMG, WHAT HAVE I DONE!

I Should have asked this group first before I went so far.

The reason I sanded so much is because when it rains, a lot of paint got washed down to the walls, so I got the impression that there are lot of paint there.

Also I thought the roof should be red, so as long It is not red, it is not fiberglass.

 

Thank you so much!

Edited by John C
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1 minute ago, John C said:

The reason I sanded so much is because when it rains, a lot of paint got washed down to the walls, so I got the impression that there are lot of paint there.

The white chalking running down from the roof onto the walls is from the unpainted roof. A good coat of Marine Decking Paint will eliminate the chalking.

I had my 02 Windsor painted with Tuff Coat. One coat of 2-part epoxy primer and three coats of the rubberized Tuff Coat paint. 3 coats as I had purchased too much and didn't want to throw it away.

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Suggest that you read the “search” results. Used key words PAINT & ROOF.  

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Paint roof&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Many knowledgeable members have contributed a lot and the topics in the list describe a wealth of knowledge specific to Monaco.  Chris Throgmartin’s insights are from owning a reliable repair shop.

Don’t know your skill set, but a Pro Body Shop might be needed to fix… Having worked in a Boat factory as a summer job, your first priority needs to be covering (polytarps) the areas to prevent water infiltration.  Then get the roof properly restored….THEN think about the solar array.

The real question is…is the red panel FIBERGLASS?  First glance, it looks like it could be plywood….lets hope NOT!

SO….best case scenario….HOPEFULLY the damage is in the panel and not all the way through.  The “1/8” thickness, if taken that far down is a great deal…and fixing it must be tailored to how BEST to do it and restore the structural integrity.

Having built and helped repair boats in a large factory, as a summer job…that started parttime in the early spring….this is my assessment.

Gel Coat is usually the top layer over the “panel” or a hull.  We sprayed Gel Coat into a waxed mold….think a 20 ft mold for the hull of a runabout.  That was like applying a thick coat of latex paint.  Only is was an epoxy paint.  It went on “lumpy”….and then we built up several layers or thicknesses of differing types of fiberglass . The “resin” is actually an epoxy and you mix hardener in…so, the layers of fiberglass and resin were chemically crosslinked or “bonded”.  Don’t know how Monaco applied the top gel coat.  It was NEVER meant as a paint.  It will contine to chalk or leave white streaks.  Jim and others have noted the concerns…so moving on.

I would watch a lot of Youtube videos.  I’d actually do that myself to see what is new or some tricks.

IF…BIG IF, the dark red is the fiberglass roof panel, then the objective is to repair the ground out sections and get them smooth and level.  They MUST be flat or flush after the repair.  A steel ruler or steel straight edge must be used so, that there are no VALLEYS or pockets.  Water will pond.

IF, yes, 1/8th inch was ground off….then there may be several layers needed to build the ground sections  back up to smooth and flush.  The first ones will be “MAT” or pressed fiberglass fibers.  LOOK UP FG MAT.  Maybe the first grade or such is thick.  

The “abrading” step is already over.  Wipe off with ACETONE….then use a small (narrow) paint roller and coat the surface. Lay down a long strip, precut, of mat and then a special “comb style” roller to squeegee out the air bubbles and get the matting fully saturated.  Let it cure.  Then HAND sand with maybe 100 grit paper and get rid of the splinters and needle.  Knock down any high spots.  Use the steel edge to see where they are.  Blow off the dust, with a mask or respirator on, wipe off with Acetone. We had barrels of acetone.  It removes dust, evaporates.  It will NOT harm the epoxy gel coat…just use where you are repairing and use a cloth and don’t just pour  it everywhere

The trick will be to get the build up coats high snd LEVEL and then put on a layer of fine fiberglass cloth.  The trick with fiberglass resin….roll and roll and roll and work out the air pockets…

Once restored….follow the panting and such Instructions in the topics from the search.  If there is to be a rail or frame for a solar….then attach it and paint up or recoat to it.  Beware that dips snd valleys and such will collect water and dirt snd debris snd be s royal  PITA and  cause grief.

This is basically, undoing the grinding and restoration of the areas…

Maybe a Pro Body Shop job….as was posted….this repair or rebuilding the ground out areas to the previous thicknesses and flatness is essential….otherwise the structural integrity of the entire roof may be compromised…

Good Luck…

 

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The red is fiberglass, one of the main reason I made the mistake is I saw other dynasty with red fiberglass roof and I never those about gel coat and other layer on top of that. On top of the, the previous owner must have put a ton of primer/paint on top it. When I looked at the red fiberglass, it has a lot of spider web line on it. I believe that is probably the reason the previous owner painted the roof to make it look better.

I did drill some hole for the well nuts to tied the channel to the fiberglass roof, it looks like the fiber glass still has quite bit depth. according to my brochure, my roof from top on: 1/4" fiberglass on top=> 3/1/2" tapered bead form => 1/4" marina grade plywood=>.... so there is no way I could have reached the plywood.

To make it absolutely safe, I will put another channel in the middle of the two channels I already put on(of course just lightly sand it).

It turned out the 3M 5200 glue is SO SO STRONG, there is no need to put any anchor , screws ,rivet,well nuts.

I tried to pull it out with all my power this morning (it won't  be100% cured until 10 hr later) and it was not move a bit. I will have to tear the roof out in order to pull the struct channel out.

 

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Yes, 3M5200 is waterproof and permanent!

Is the area you sanded thru the gelcoat under the bracket on the left on the top picture?

If so, that's your rear cap.

Edited by 96 EVO
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53 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes, 3M5200 is waterproof and permanent!

Is the area you sanded thru the gelcoat under the bracket on the left on the top picture?

If so, that's your rear cap.

Yes, 90% of sanded area is under the struct channel. the rest 10% I covered with Decor 501(the edge next to struct channel) and EternaBond RoofSeal tape

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Don’t know if this is applicable to your rig, but you might find it interesting, if not helpful.

Best of luck!

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The one that I posted previously looked a little fuzzy, so hopefully this one is clearer.

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11 minutes ago, Patricia Ferrara said:

Don’t know if this is applicable to your rig, but you might find it interesting, if not helpful.

Best of luck!

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The one that I posted previously looked a little fuzzy, so hopefully this one is clearer.

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It is different, my coach has fiberglass roof on top.

Thanks

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