Where to drop the solar wires from fridge top vent?

[John C]

I am getting ready to run the wires from the fridge vent, there are only two locations above the fridge vent where I can drop the wire all the way down .

First one is on the left corner, but the boiler tube(gas burner chimney) is right next to it. I guess I can wrap the wires with those tapes for high temperature environment, but it is still not ideal.
The 2nd one is in the middle of the fridge, but there are two pipes in the middle, I am not sure if those two pipe will get hot and how hot will those be when fridge is running. if no , then that will be the  perfect place.
Please advise.
Thank you.
 

[timaz996]

You should have a factory buss bar for solar on the roof under your fridge vent cover.

[John C]

Unfortunately it is almost impossible to direction the wire to a place I can drop the wire to the bottom. I have to cut a open on top mesh net to drop the wirs.

Also I have 10 solar wires.

[JohnC3]

I am not sure of your fridge setup, but I suspect I am seeing a msb baffle from the outer edge of the RV inward to the fins to direct the airflow up through the fins to improve cooling. I would suggest verifying the baffle location from below and then going through the baffle. You can then secure the wires away from heat sources on the way down. My thought would be to make the hole large enough for 1 wire and an mc4 connector to fit through. Leave some slack above the fridge in case you ever need to pull the baffle (you shouldn't but just in case you need to remove it to work on the fan thermostat or something, you can add a disconnect if you need to in the future. ) my solor controller is in the void below the fridge, I went through the space behind the fridge but used the opportunity to get rid of the top vent as I replaced the original with a 12 compressor model.

Hope it helps and good luck,

John

[Frank McElroy]

By any chance do you have a rectangular solar junction box on the roof?

[John C]

50 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

By any chance do you have a rectangular solar junction box on the roof?

The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.

I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.

for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.

for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.

 

1 hour ago, JohnC3 said:

I am not sure of your fridge setup, but I suspect I am seeing a msb baffle from the outer edge of the RV inward to the fins to direct the airflow up through the fins to improve cooling. I would suggest verifying the baffle location from below and then going through the baffle. You can then secure the wires away from heat sources on the way down. My thought would be to make the hole large enough for 1 wire and an mc4 connector to fit through. Leave some slack above the fridge in case you ever need to pull the baffle (you shouldn't but just in case you need to remove it to work on the fan thermostat or something, you can add a disconnect if you need to in the future. ) my solor controller is in the void below the fridge, I went through the space behind the fridge but used the opportunity to get rid of the top vent as I replaced the original with a 12 compressor model.

Hope it helps and good luck,

John

So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?

Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?

[96 EVO]

6 hours ago, John C said:

The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.

I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.

for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.

for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.

 

So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?

Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?

None of those tubes are going to get as hot as your burner chimney!

[JohnC3]

6 hours ago, John C said:

The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.

I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.

for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.

for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.

 

So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?

Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?

Actually, I think you should drill a hole in the msb away from the fridge where you can and then run your wires down through the msb panel. This will put your wires down closer to the side of the RV. Also, talk more about your setup. 10awg can carry 30A,  I would probably join at least some panels in series to raise the voltage,  this will allow the panels to provide usable power to the mppt for longer(when the sun is lower angle). I have a 36 ft and had convenient space for 2 (410w) panels. They go to a victron 100/50 controller to output 600w to the batteries. 

[John C]

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

None of those tubes are going to get as hot as your burner chimney!

Good, that is what I want to hear 😀

What are those two tubes for ?

2 hours ago, JohnC3 said:

Actually, I think you should drill a hole in the msb away from the fridge where you can and then run your wires down through the msb panel. This will put your wires down closer to the side of the RV. Also, talk more about your setup. 10awg can carry 30A,  I would probably join at least some panels in series to raise the voltage,  this will allow the panels to provide usable power to the mppt for longer(when the sun is lower angle). I have a 36 ft and had convenient space for 2 (410w) panels. They go to a victron 100/50 controller to output 600w to the batteries. 

The problem is I got 7 panels with 4 different voltage. I will connect 2 pairs of two 300W panel in series.

no sure what is msb panel.

For me fridge is safest place because I won't accidentally break a wire and also I don't have to worry about the ceiling.

[JohnC3]

6 hours ago, John C said:

Good, that is what I want to hear 😀

What are those two tubes for ?

The problem is I got 7 panels with 4 different voltage. I will connect 2 pairs of two 300W panel in series.

no sure what is msb panel.

For me fridge is safest place because I won't accidentally break a wire and also I don't have to worry about the ceiling.

Look at your original picture. Drill the hole near the base of one of the red arrows you added to the picture. Msb=multi stranded board. Also known as chip board. If you remove the lower exterior fridge vent from the outside of your RV and place a flashlight in the void behind your fridge and shine a light up towards the roof, you will be illuminating the bottom side of the piece of "wood" (msb) that is in your picture. I am suggesting you rout your witts frome the roof closer to the outside wall of your motorhome than the fins of your coils in your picture. That wood (msb) in the picture is a baffle used to force air over the coils of fridge to increase thermal efficiency. There is 2-3 inches of space behind the fridge coils (as you can tell by the presence of the piece of msb you are photographing) send it down through that void, but 1st convince yourself I am right drill a hole small enough for a wire to go through ( or a string or fish tape, your choice) push the wire ,etc through the hole about 6 feet and look through the lower outside fridge vent and see what you find. The wire, as long as it didn't get tangled in fiberglass insulation or caught in the coils should be between the rear of the fridge an the side of the motorhome. If you run the wires here, you can still take out the fridge when it needs repair or replacement, without cutting your solar panel wires.

[Bill R]

John C - is there room to run rigid or flexible electrical conduit down the back of the refrigerator?

[Brad Loehr]

I ran a solar connection J-box on the roof next to the sewer vent standpipe.  Brought it down interior bathroom wall along the side of the pipe above the black water tank. From there it is just a short distance to the battery bay.  Add lots of sealant or and eternabond for your modifications on the roof...

[John C]

On 7/1/2024 at 4:12 PM, Bill R said:

John C - is there room to run rigid or flexible electrical conduit down the back of the refrigerator?

Unfortunately no enough space for 10 wires.

 

On 7/1/2024 at 6:09 AM, JohnC3 said:

Look at your original picture. Drill the hole near the base of one of the red arrows you added to the picture. Msb=multi stranded board. Also known as chip board. If you remove the lower exterior fridge vent from the outside of your RV and place a flashlight in the void behind your fridge and shine a light up towards the roof, you will be illuminating the bottom side of the piece of "wood" (msb) that is in your picture. I am suggesting you rout your witts frome the roof closer to the outside wall of your motorhome than the fins of your coils in your picture. That wood (msb) in the picture is a baffle used to force air over the coils of fridge to increase thermal efficiency. There is 2-3 inches of space behind the fridge coils (as you can tell by the presence of the piece of msb you are photographing) send it down through that void, but 1st convince yourself I am right drill a hole small enough for a wire to go through ( or a string or fish tape, your choice) push the wire ,etc through the hole about 6 feet and look through the lower outside fridge vent and see what you find. The wire, as long as it didn't get tangled in fiberglass insulation or caught in the coils should be between the rear of the fridge an the side of the motorhome. If you run the wires here, you can still take out the fridge when it needs repair or replacement, without cutting your solar panel wires.

Will definitely give it a try when I am back from traveling.

I am traveling without RV right now.

Will be back home in the middle of next month.

[scottknight]

I ran the 14 + volt cable thru the rear cap using a  rv weatherproof sealable entrance because the controller could be located near the batteries and inverter compartment. I avoided the refrigerator area. Adding a vent in the last bin on passenger side of rv that stored the inverter into the rear cap area. The vent also provided the power cable from the solar system to enter the bin.  

[bryan browne]

last monthy I installed 8-200 watt panels and relocated my existing 100watt panel to charge the chassis battery. I set it existing panel over the area that was the fridge vent that only had the wires for that 100w panel running in it (Residental refrigerator). then I drill and ran my new wires 2 pair of #6 and 1 pair for future down on p/s near tank vent. I ran my panels in set of 2 series to 2 parallel and tied to 1 pair of #6. they are perfoming well so far. In my 2007 Dynasty Palace III I have a small pantry cabinet that back up to shower. I remove the shelves and the interior side panel was screwed on. opened it up and it was the main chase from the invertor up and had a lot of room to pull the wires down.  Picture is just prior to completed.

[scottknight]

wow nice,    i have some room to add but left some roof space open for equipment maintenance, just under 800 watts installed but only getting best under 500 watts, no tilting and Death Valley type environment. This was my first solar test and what i learned over a few years is that when boondocking the competition for shade on rv vs solar causes me to consider a remote panel group that folds and i could store under bed to try and manage shading vs producing electricity.  I dream of when the patio shade awning becomes a large flexible solar panel a twofer (shade and power) a cable entrance already exsists for my power awning. All shades could become solar panels!! Because the controller reduces the voltage of my panel to keep from cooking the batteries the 200 watts listed capacity of the panel is reduced .....  Volts x Amps = Watts. I lose power from panels to protect the batteries.

[bryan browne]

1 hour ago, scottknight said:

wow nice,    i have some room to add but left some roof space open for equipment maintenance, just under 800 watts installed but only getting best under 500 watts, no tilting and Death Valley type environment. This was my first solar test and what i learned over a few years is that when boondocking the competition for shade on rv vs solar causes me to consider a remote panel group that folds and i could store under bed to try and manage shading vs producing electricity.  I dream of when the patio shade awning becomes a large flexible solar panel a twofer (shade and power) a cable entrance already exsists for my power awning. All shades could become solar panels!! Because the controller reduces the voltage of my panel to keep from cooking the batteries the 200 watts listed capacity of the panel is reduced .....  Volts x Amps = Watts. I lose power from panels to protect the batteries.

I agree Scott, it would be great to be able to grab the solar from the awning and slide toppers. I am waiting for the a/c units to be inverter technology like the mini split a/c units, they ramp up and down as the demand call for it. much more efficient...

[Traveling Dodsons]

On 7/15/2024 at 7:27 AM, scottknight said:

wow nice,    i have some room to add but left some roof space open for equipment maintenance, just under 800 watts installed but only getting best under 500 watts, no tilting and Death Valley type environment. This was my first solar test and what i learned over a few years is that when boondocking the competition for shade on rv vs solar causes me to consider a remote panel group that folds and i could store under bed to try and manage shading vs producing electricity.  I dream of when the patio shade awning becomes a large flexible solar panel a twofer (shade and power) a cable entrance already exsists for my power awning. All shades could become solar panels!! Because the controller reduces the voltage of my panel to keep from cooking the batteries the 200 watts listed capacity of the panel is reduced .....  Volts x Amps = Watts. I lose power from panels to protect the batteries.

I hear ya Scott I look forward to flexible solar panels  by the way do you know what is actually behind these end cap? Ive thought about some different mods but wasn’t sure what I’d be digging into!

[scottknight]

57 minutes ago, Traveling Dodsons said:

I hear ya Scott I look forward to flexible solar panels  by the way do you know what is actually behind these end cap? Ive thought about some different mods but wasn’t sure what I’d be digging into!

on the driver side flex air intake duct to air filter maybe rear camara and brake third eye cable, engine heater ac plugin cable not sure what other cables and a inch or two insulation batting. From the roof  i drilled a hole and inserted a 3\8 plastic conduit to push the batting aside then dropped a plumb bob down to some kind of fiberboard in the area of the oil\transmission fluid fill area (passenger side rear cap), using plum bob string to pull dc cable thru rear cap. My inverter is in the rear passenger storage bin and a convenient place for my solar controller passing dc cable thru to next bin mostly batteries.

[John C]

Hi, @JohnC3,

I just dropped 10 x 6 awg wires behind the Msb, it works perfectly, there is still more space for another 100 wires😀

Thank you so much!