Scotty Hutto

The Moderators are following this thread (there are five of us), and no rules have been violated. Three comments: 1. The OP mentioned inflation the the context of RVing. There’s no rule against discussing the economy. It was done in the context of RVing, which would still comply with the rules even if it was “political”. 2. Discussing past experiences regarding the economy isn’t considered politics. If it was done in a Democrats vs Republicans or a political nature, we’d take a hard look. We’re not about being censors, just keeping the conversation somewhat on-topic. 3. As a reminder, if you see something you think might be a violation of the rules, click on the three little dots in the upper right hand corner and “Report” it. DO NOT call someone out in the thread. The Moderators will most likely discuss it, and we will handle it. Carry on…

Echoing what Frank said…. My gaskets were attached to the covers (and looked about like Frank’s), and when I replaced the covers after a storm blew them away in summer 2017 I attached the foam to the AC unit like Frank did. I wasn’t as smart as Frank… I just couldn’t figure out where the gaskets were supposed to go on the cover, but I could clearly see where they had been touching inside the unit, so…. As my older brother would say… “even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while…”

Well, I have his number, but I was told very emphatically never to give it out under penalty of severe harassment. 🤪

Ray, et. al., Invision deployed an upgrade yesterday. Most of the changes were “behind the scenes”, but a few affect the user experience. For those interested, a full description of the upgrade is described here: https://invisioncommunity.com/news/company/whats-new-in-460-r1229/ The only exception to these changes (and for reasons I believe we all understand), Monacoers does not allow anonymous posting.

But, but, but... that's what we DO.

Bill, I'm no expert on headlights, but I have fooled around a lot with the ones on my 2006 Dip and learned a few things the hard ($) way. Couple of thoughts from a lighting engineer: - I sell LED lights (street lighting to utilities, mainly) for a living. We spend a lot of time and money on engineering to make sure the light coming out of the LEDs goes in the right place - it's not easy! Don't get me wrong -- I love LEDs; they feed my family. ...and LEDs will put out a LOT MORE light for the energy used, BUT... the reflectors in your headlamp assembly determine where that light goes. Unless you really do your homework and get LEDs with the exact shape, size, and focal point of the Halogen lights they're replacing (no small feat), most of that extra light goes in the wrong places (i.e., oncoming driver's eye, shoulder of the road, etc.). Also, technically speaking LED headlights in a reflector designed for Halogen (incandescent) bulbs aren't DOT approved, and I hear that in certain places you can get a ticket if caught with LED retrofit bulbs. - Aftermarket headlight assemblies abound, from cheap to expensive. Short of a specialty company that knows what they're doing (see JD's comments above), spend the extra $$$ and buy OEM Lincoln headlight assemblies. (Mine are from a 2000 Buick Century. My coach came from the factory with TYCO knock-offs that put light everywhere but the road. I found actual OEM units on GMParts.com for about 50% more than knock offs, and the difference in light distribution is quite noticeable.) - If you stick with incandescent (Halogen) headlights, make sure you're getting good voltage to the bulbs. My coach did not use relays and ran the headlight current through the headlight switch (!!!). IF your coach doesn't use relays for the headlights, adding them will improve your voltage and light output. The best source for info on how to do this is http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html. Warning: Daniel Stern hates LED headlights. - Aiming is critical. Good article at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html As for me, I've gotten great results with actual GM OEM headlights from a 2000 Buick Century (to replace the TYCO knockoffs - in your case it would be actual Lincoln OEM headlights), a well engineered, but (not super high-output) LED bulb, and some basic headlight aiming. Hope that helps.

Still a goal for some of us...

Plus you have a really nice looking, freshly painted battery tray! 😁

Here’s my current setup, which is still evolving…. Left to right: TireMinder TPMS (running on an old iPhone 6, soon to be replaced), 10” 4:3 Eyoyo monitor - divided into three screens, rear, left, and right cameras. Garmin RV780 GPS unit. Below and to the right, original Weldex screen showing Aladdin engine data full time, and to the off to the right of that (not in picture), Pioneer double-din stereo. All of the dash mounted equipment is using Ram mounts. Most ideas shamelessly stolen from @pwhittle it took some trial and error to get things positioned low enough so they don’t distract from my road vision but also high enough so they don’t cover any dash gauges. Next project is to replace the failing Weldex with an 8” 4:3 Eyoyo monitor and rear camera control switch…

Just a Slight correction…. The $498 includes the cost of your site. Here’s the full info: “Rates for the gathering include a full hook up site with 50amp service, all (5) of the evening buffet meals, all seminars/presentations during the week and vouchers for breakfast in the Lazydays cafeteria (main building). 2022 Gathering Rates: Couples - $498.40 plus tax, Two adults per coach, pets included Single - $403.92 plus tax, One adult per coach, pets included Seminars and meals only for those not staying onsite - $94.48 plus tax per person”

Bob, We typically have 40-50 coaches, and currently have 40 slots on hold with Lazydays. We typically use all of the slots reserved at some point in early fall, and depending on what LazyDays has might be able to pick up a handful more, but that could be different this year due to the pandemic. Based on the level of interest I’ve experienced so far, I think our allocation of slots will be used up pretty quickly. As far as a maximum, I’ll have to defer to @David Pratt But in the end, all of that is a guess based on experience.

please take pictures and document as much as possible!

Since I have a "connected coach" I would love to have a Bluetooth unit! ...but alas, I installed this almost 4 years ago before I started adding all the connected gadgets.

Progressive Industries, Hughes, and SurgeGuard are all popular, reputable brands, although a strong majority on this site prefer the Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C based on the experience of our members over the years that this group has been around - both on Yahoo! Groups and now here. It's a very robust unit with great customer service and a good warranty. I believe @Tom Cherry has an excellent write-up on the installation (possibly in the files section?) Here's the installation I did myself in my coach using Tom's guidance: Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C installed with display and display switch in electrical bay. (Note: Display and Display Switch are held on transfer switch with velcro in case I need to remove them.) PI EMS-RDS remote installed on my indoor display panel.

Please see the update hosted on the site calendar here. All updates will be posted to the calendar. (Please note that you must be signed in to view this item):

Ok, try this again, we updated the download to the new version that includes the text and pictures:

No window removal for me…. Notcold went out through the door, Samsung went in through the door. Like Steven, I had to remove the passenger seat, the grab bars, and detach the door scissors. I also had to remove the doors from both fridges.

Elaine & Clarence, Download this pdf from our “downloads” section. It’s a great write-up from one of our members @Bob Nodine on lowering the floor above the furnace and installing a residential fridge. I used this as my guide to install a Samsung RF18 fridge in my 2006 Diplomat. Also, @Steven P installed a GE counter depth fridge in his Diplomat that has ice and water in the door, and I think he used this as a guide also. It can be done! I’m hoping someone with a 2001 Dip will chime in with their experience.

isn’t the horn test required by law or something?

You are correct sir, it does operate by a vacuum. Can I redeem myself by saying “negative static pressure”? 😂

What a great thread. Thank you Rik for sharing and opening this door. Hopefully you’ve gotten some encouragement here. Wish we were all sitting around a campfire discussing this, because I’d really enjoy putting faces with all the names. Maybe we can do that next Feb. at the Gathering? I will say this thread makes me feel like I’m just getting started on my second career and RVing at 60, and I’m blessed to have a wife that loves to RV as much or more than I do. We both still work, but she only works part time at a church, and I’m lucky to have a job that can be done from anywhere. If I could just talk her into selling the house 😂

It sounds like the original question has been answered, but I just can’t help weighing in here… 1. If all systems are operating properly, the Filter Minder will tell you when to replace your filter. This is especially good when operating in dusty conditions. 2. Most failures in the filter / Filter Minder system are going to cause the Filter Minder to indicate all is well… - if the filter minder itself is broken and just indicates all is well all the time - if there’s a leak in the hose to the filter minder, it won’t generate enough static pressure to move the indicator - if the filter glue or filter media is breaking down, or the filter is not seated properly, it generates a lower static pressure, and the Filter Minder will indicate all is well. THIS is your worst-case scenario, because the air is not being filtered properly, but you think it is. This could result in a dusted engine and $$$$! Repairs. So in light of that, my advice would be: 1. If the Filter Minder indicates you need to change it, then change it. You have high static pressure, which indicates the filter is dirty or otherwise clogged. 2. If you haven’t changed it per the intervals in your owners manual, change it! Mine says every two years. Your manual may have a different interval. At the end of the day, air filters are relatively cheap compared to other coach maintenance items. Your Filter Minder is ONE way to know you DO need to change the filter. But not the definitive answer. I’ll leave it with this… if you change the air filter too often, what harm have you done other than a minor dent in your wallet? If you don’t change it soon enough, you may end up rebuilding a dusted engine (according to my sources - @throgmartin - about $20k). I can’t speak for anyone else, but that would hurt my feelings and my wallet. …and my DW would be very unhappy because we couldn’t use the coach for an extended period! As with all things RV related, your mileage may vary…

It’s all good! Leave it up for a while; not all of our members look at the site everyday. Hope you find one! PS - @pwhittle is really good at figuring out those connectors. He may be able to help.