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Scotty Hutto

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  1. Scotty Hutto
    Just curious about refrigerators, how many have chosen different options, popular brands, and your experiences. Since it will only let me ask 3 questions, feel free to add comments below.
  2. Scotty Hutto
    PS - I have also applied to be a beta tester for the Tank Whisper system. Will post a review in a separate thread if/when selected.
  3. Scotty Hutto
    Thanks everyone for your input. I’ve closed this thread to further posting.
  4. Scotty Hutto
    Just to clarify, it was the Magnum Inverter battery temp sensor that was bad, not the RV Whisper sensor. I identified it because the house batteries would not charge above 12.7vdc, which I identified using the RV Whisper sensor (if I was at the coach I could’ve used the Magnum display panel.). RV Whisper gave me an alert that my house batteries were low. Upon investigation, everything seemed normal with the inverter except the charging voltage. Looking at the Magnum troubleshooting chart, I identified the battery temp sensor (BTS) as the possible culprit. This was confirmed by disconnecting the BTS from the inverter, and the battery charging voltage immediately went up to the normal range. When the BTS goes bad, it sends a signal indicating the batteries are overheating to the inverter. The inverter lowers the charging voltage to 12.7vdc to prevent boiling the batteries. Unplugging the BTS removes the “overheating” signal, and the inverter returns to normal operation. …that may be more info that you were looking for, hope it helps.
  5. Scotty Hutto
    I ordered mine after the post above, and installed it last weekend. I am monitoring: - Coach temp and humidity - Fridge temp - Wet bay temp and humidity - House battery voltage I have a fairly weak cell signal at my coach (1-2 bars) but have no problem receiving data and alerts. (This connects through a ToGo RoadLink [aka Winegard ConnecT 2.0] that is on 24/7) It was easy and straightforward to set up. i did have one battery sensor that was DOA, and they shipped a replacement immediately, no questions asked. (I thought the customer service was great! Very friendly, helpful, and interested in getting me working properly) The app is good, not great... you have to log back in if you’ve switched to another app or closed your phone. (it remembers the details for you). In addition to the app there is a website you can use to check the coach. It’s already helped me identify that my house batteries were not charging fully, and my chassis batteries not charging at all. Turns out I had a bad battery temperature sensor on my Magnum Inverter, which was causing the inverter to only charge house batteries to 12.7vdc, and the chassis batteries not at all. The alerts are very customizable and work as advertised. I plan to add a chassis battery monitor and a freezer temp monitor. May add the tank monitors later if it all continues to work well. Scotty
  6. Scotty Hutto
    Thank you for the suggestion. I’ll address it more specifically below, but this gives me the opportunity to mention how the site works, and how to report content you feel is “out of bounds”, which may be helpful to newer members. The Moderators attempt to address rude or unhelpful comments, but as everyone involved with running this site is a volunteer, there is not someone monitoring the site constantly and we don’t always see every post. We have community guidelines that address behavior on the site, and ask that members report rude, abusive, or unhelpful comments. You can do this when you see one of these comments by clicking the three little dots int he upper right hand corner of that post, and click “Report”. That will bring it to the attention of the moderators, and one of us will address the comment as soon as possible. While we’re on the the subject, I’d like to remind everyone that when we DO take action, NO ONE sees it but the offending party. We will NOT publicly reprimand or take further action where others can see. As Momma said, “Praise in Public, Punish in Private.” Unfortunately, this sometimes gives the impression we’re not doing anything, but I promise you... we are. Finally, I’ll add that there are occasional posts that never see the light of day, or are removed by a moderator almost immediately when posted. We don’t typically “ban” people unless they are multiple offenders or obvious spammers. We typically follow a 3 step process: 1. warning, 2. Suspension of posting, and 3. Ban. As for the “read the manual” comments... yes, that comment, made without additional advice, comment, or context is not helpful and somewhat rude. When I see that as the entire post, I usually just delete it. That said, with all of the different models and years of coaches, it is often necessary to refer folks to the manual of their specific coach, because the poster may not have details available only in the manual. (But I don’t think that’s what’s being discussed here!) Thanks, Scotty
  7. Scotty Hutto
    Out of intellectual curiosity, I was at the coach today and decided to test my theory on disconnecting the current transformer of the Intellitec EMS. Before starting I checked the amp draw (battery float charge and lights on) Opened the breaker panel and disconnected the current transformer... checked amp draw... No alarms or shutdown. I cut on the electric water heater to test loading and it stayed at zero. So... this worked. Your mileage may vary and please remember, those amperage draw limits are there to protect you, the coach electrical system, and the power source feeding your coach. Disabling them for a short duration in an unusual situation might be ok, but long term you might inadvertently overload circuitry and cause a fire or other damage. PLEASE be careful!
  8. Scotty Hutto
    Awesome work Frank! Did you ever wish you could talk to a Monaco Tech, or at least ask what they were thinking? THIS IS AS CLOSE A CHANCE AS YOU'LL GET! (Forgive the yelling, I'm a little excited!) I've read through almost every one of these tips, and there's a tremendous amount of great information. There is some "story behind the design" and good information that goes beyond just the "what" that's in your owners manual. As Frank mentioned, since these range from 2001-2008, not all of this information applies to every coach. And a few tips pertain mainly to travel trailers (yes, Monaco and Holiday Rambler made those too.) But MOST of the tips apply to all diesel pusher coaches, and a majority apply to all Class A coaches. Enjoy!
  9. Scotty Hutto
    I definitely see some possible synergies with Silverleaf and Winegard in terms of "connected coach" possiblities. As someone that's trying to modernize a 15 year old coach (that I plan to keep a long, long time!), the integration of connectivity into the coach to monitor coach systems has been very piecemeal. If they can leverage Silverleaf's knowledge of RV-C, Winegard's expertise in communications, and work with some partners for end-use equipment, they could be a real force in standardizing coach electronics and communications. IF they use their superpowers for good... 🙂 On the other hand, I've had my challenges with Winegard support. They're great once you get them on the phone, but that has always taken a while for me...
  10. Scotty Hutto
    Rich, I think we're just going to have to settle for "it's something like a Knight" although it has a different chassis than the 2003 Knight. As far as placement on the chart, I'll leave it where it is but I'm open to suggestions. Maybe someone with better knowledge of the matter will come along and share some insight.
  11. Scotty Hutto
    I’ll have you know I resemble that comment! 🤣😂
  12. Scotty Hutto
    Soo... You always wanted to know, what DO those letters stand for in your Monaco designation. Here it is, straight from Monaco: Floor Plan Coding System: Trailer Definitions: RKS – Rear Kitchen Slide CKT – Center Kitchen Triple SKS – Side Kitchen Single SKD – Side Kitchen Double RLD – Rear Living Room Double SCD – Side Center Double RKD – Rear Kitchen Double SKT – Side Kitchen Triple FKS – Front Kitchen Single FKS – Front Kitchen Single CKS – Center Kitchen Single RLT – Rear Living Room Triple NOTE: There are occasional exceptions to the above guidelines. Beginning with the model year 2004, all Safari products were reclassified under the above listed guidelines. Units built prior to 2004 follow the below listed method of designation: First Two Numbers represent the approximate floor plan length. Third Number represents bath designation: 1 - Center 2 - Rear 3 - Side Aisle 4 - Walk Through 5 - Private Center 6 - Private Rear 7 - Private Side 8 - Private Walk Through 9 - Bath and 1/2 Fourth Number represents Floor Plan Callout and Entry Door Designation: 1 – Deep Slide D/S – Front Door (dinette and chair) 2 – Deep Slide D/S – Side Door (dinette and chair) 3 – Deep Slide D/S – Front Door (dinette and sofa) 4 – Deep Slide D/S – Side Door (dinette and sofa) 5 – Galley Slide D/S – Front Door (galley and sofa) 6 – Galley Slide D/S – Side Door (galley and sofa) 7 – Galley Slide D/S – Front Door (galley and dinette) 8 – Galley Slide D/S – Side Door (galley and dinette) Fifth Number denotes the Number of Slides: 1 – Single 2 – Double 3 - Triple
  13. Scotty Hutto
    Found it. Thanks!
  14. Scotty Hutto
    I get a "404 - File Not Found" error. Am I doing something wrong?
  15. Scotty Hutto
    Wondering if anyone can help with a bit of Monaco/Beaver info... I'm trying to figure out where to place the Beaver Baron (specfically, 2003) in the coach lineup. It appears to be similar to the Knight, but used a R4R chassis. Anyone have any history / information / lore about the Beaver Baron? Here's the coach lineup I mention: Thanks, Scotty
  16. Scotty Hutto
    New goal: At least once in this lifetime, I’m going to buy the TV and sound bar from the same company so everything works seamlessly... 😂
  17. Scotty Hutto
    We've had a request to add the 2003 Beaver Baron. The floorplans look similar to a 2003 Camelot, but not an exact match. Anyone know the answer?
  18. Scotty Hutto
    This is a question frequently asked on the site (and other Monaco sites). I've done the best I can to compile what information is available. See note at bottom regarding corrections. Monaco Holiday Rambler Beaver Safari “Mostly” Built in Signature - Marquis - Oregon Executive Navigator - Panther Oregon Dynasty Imperial Patriot Thunder Zanzibar Oregon Windsor Imperial (02-05) Contessa Gazelle OR / IN - - Monterey Sahara Oregon Camelot Scepter Sabrina Cheetah Indiana Diplomat Endeavor Santiam Simba Indiana Knight Ambassador - Passage Indiana Cayman Neptune - - Indiana LaPalma (2006-9 DP) Vacationer (2006-9 DP) - - Indiana LaPalma (gas) Vacationer (gas) - - Indiana Monarch (gas) Admiral (gas) - - Indiana Notes: 1. 2004-2007 considered "prime" years of MCC by some because of quality, non-DEF engines, etc. 2. Late 2007 through 2009 MCC was heading into bankruptcy (unpaid vendors, random parts). Still great coaches, but some parts may not be standard. 3. Beaver coaches are known for beautiful burl wood designs, cabinetry, and multiple species of wood on raised panel doors 4. Higher-end Beavers have more robust slide construction, with encapsulated corners and additional cross-bracing Please provide any corrections, updates, or additional information in the comments below. This will be updated as new or more accurate info comes available.
  19. Scotty Hutto
    History: 1953 - Holiday Rambler founded in Wakarusa, IN 1968 - Monaco founded 1968 in Junction City, Oregon as Caribou Manufacturing Company 1968 - Beaver Motorcoach Corp founded in Bend, OR. (Named after Oregon State mascot) 1977 - Caribou Manufacturing Company changes name to Monaco Coach Corporation (MCC) 1984 - Monaco acquires Roadmaster Chassis division of Chrysler 1986 - Safari Motorcoach Corp founded in Harrisburg, OR 1994 - Safari Motorcoach Corp purchases Beaver Motorocoach Corp 1994 - Monaco moves from Junction City, OR to Coburg, OR 1996 - Monaco acquires Holiday Rambler 2002 - MCC acquires Safari Motorcoach Corporation (including Beaver Motorcoach Corporation) 2009 - MCC files Chapter 11 bankruptcy (reorganization) in April; converted to Chapter 7 (liquidation) in June 2009 - MCC assets purchased by Navistar; division renamed Monaco RV LLC. 2013 - Monaco RV assets purchase by REV in 2013 as part of Navistar restructuring 2016 - Ty Kelly / Beaver Sales & Service purchased Beaver brand from REV with intent to eventually resume production 2019 - Currently last new model year for Monaco brand coaches with the Signature and Marquis being the last coaches remaining; apparently the 2019 model year coaches are still in production as of 2/15/2021. Links with coach history and support for specific brands: Monaco Coach Corporation - Wikipedia article Monaco Coach - Current (REV) Site Monaco Coach Parts - Current (REV) Site Holiday Rambler - Wikipedia article Holiday Rambler - Current (REV) Site Ramblin' Pushers on Groups.IO Beaver Motorcoach Corporation - Wikipedia article Beaver Motorhome History Beaver Ambassadors Club (We are not aware of a current Beaver Motorcoach site) Safari Motorcoach Corporation - Wikipedia article Please feel free to add updates, additional information, suggest links to related sites, or add color commentary in the comments section
  20. Scotty Hutto
    I’m hoping @Larry Laursen or @Frank McElroy can straighten me out here, but this is my understanding from the Intellitec manual: “Energy Management is only enabled if 240 VAC Service is not available. When connected to 240 VAC Service, the Energy Management features of the unit are disabled and the unit switches all controlled loads “ON”. The main neutral line is routed through the magnetically coupled current sensor, which measures the current flowing through the neutral line. This is the total amount being drawn by all the 120 volt appliances in the RV when the available power service is 120 VAC. When this current exceeds the "shore" service rating of 30Amps (20Amps if the threshold has been set lower or the generator service rating and 240 VAC service is not available, the will turn off the controlled loads in an effort to bring the total current to the limit of the incoming service” So... why wouldn’t disconnecting the current sensor (CT, or current transformer) disable the EMS? On my board it has a small connector that will allow me to disconnect the CT. Theoretically you could mount a small DPDT switch to enable or disable energy management... at your own risk, of course. It is there for a reason, but Bob’s situation seems like one that would merit that. It seems a very simple solution to @W7BE_Bob’s problem, or am I missing some important point? (I probably am, but wanted to ask...)
  21. Scotty Hutto
    Good point Chuck. That can cause a lot of frustration if someone attempts to use a regular phone cable. Additionally, the cables used for Progressive Industries remotes are also data cables, not phone cables.
  22. Scotty Hutto
    Bob, There are some people on the board more knowledgeable than me, but you should be able to take the cover off your breaker panel and unplug the current transformer from the EMS board.
  23. Scotty Hutto
    I’ve been interested, but haven’t bought it yet. Curious to see other’s experiences.
  24. Scotty Hutto
    I purchased these for my coach on Amazon; however @Steven P found a source for them that was significantly less expensive. Hopefully he’ll share... Kaper II L14-0026A Amber LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113XWJYC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Kaper II L14-0026R Red LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113XWAR8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share 1. IF yours are like mine, the screws will be rusted. Lots of liquid wrench (or equivalent) for a day or two before trying to remove them. If you break a screw, don’t fret... just grind it down level and drill a new pilot hole just above or below. You won’t be able to tell the 1/16” difference... finally, take this opportunity to replace the screws with stainless steel screws... (like Monaco didn’t) I used #8 1-1/4” stainless steel screws. 2. There are crimp connectors on the wires that will not pull out through the hole on the outside. Don’t try. Please. (voice of experience: if you pull it loose, you have to take apart the cabinets over the front of the coach to get to the loose wire 🤦🏻‍♂️) Another tip from @Steven P; clip the wires right at the light and use those wires to attach the new lights. Shove the connections one at-a-time through the tiny holes Monaco drilled and seal the hole with Proflex. 3. Mine had liberal amounts of proflex adhereing them to the coach body. A little elbow grease, a sharp knife, and lots of care to remove. I only broke 2 of 12 (I replaced all the Amber and Red on my coach). 4. once you’ve crimped (or soldered, etc.) the wires, use liberal amounts of Proflex to seal the hole and adhere the new light to the coach. Done correctly this will prevent future leaks. Being a little uptight about leaks, I also sealed around the lights after they were installed. I hope I never have to replace them again...😂 Before: After:
  25. Scotty Hutto
    While addressing similar issues a couple of years back, I discovered that Monaco used the same basic wiring harness across much of the coach line (I.e., all diesel pushers). So on my 2006 Dip, I have the same base wiring harness as all the coaches “above” me in the product line and they include connectors for things that were never even an option on my coach. (There was also a LOT OF extra wire, because the harness had to fit a 45’ coach as well as my 40’ coach.) I know this doesn’t help solve the issue, but it may explain some of the extra connectors.
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