Scotty Hutto

It takes my flashing green light several seconds to go off, but if it’s staying on for “minutes” I would go ahead and do a hard (power) reset. If that doesn’t work, call Magnum tech support. My problem turned out to be a bad ME-ARC. I thought I was looking at a new inverter ($2,000), but it was just a flaky remote ($200) causing the whole system to not work properly. I confirmed that by completely shutting down the 12v and 120v, removing all of the network connections, and powering back up. (The inverter runs in “default” mode). When I did that, I had normal power and charging. Then, I added back components one-by-one (removing 12v and 120v power each time) until I found which one was causing the inverter to show a fault.

I found the replacement board (EMS Control Board Kit, Model 760, Intellitec 00-00894-200 at rvpartscenter.com for $284 plus shipping. Right at $300 delivered. @pwhittle might be able to help, also. He's an authorized Intellitec rep. Scotty

Just for the record, Bill Groves did have a Diplomat before he bought the Dynasty. May not be the coach discussed here, but he did have one. On my Diplomat, the front AC does go through the Intellitec. I know this because the relay burned up and I had no AC in front until I temporarily bypassed the Intellitec. Had to replace the board.

BlueFire does have logging capabilities, and the app gives you a choice of downloading the file or emailing it. Apparently its a CSV spreadsheet that allows you to manipulate it. I wish I could tell you more, but I haven't used any of those capabilities... yet! but you've piqued my interest, so logging will be turned on from now on...

First, try a soft reset of your inverter. If that doesn’t work try a power (hard) reset. Here are instructions from the Magnum manual: Under some fault conditions (e.g., an internal fault), the inverter will need to be reset. Prior to performing any reset, ensure all AC power (utility, generator, shorepower) is removed from the inverter's input. 4.4.1 Performing an Inverter Reset To perform an inverter reset (also known as a “soft reset”): 1. Press and hold the Power ON/OFF pushbutton (see Figure 4-1) for approximately fifteen (15) seconds until the Charging/Inverting Status LED comes on and flashes rapidly. 2. Once the rapid flashing has begun, release the Power ON/OFF pushbutton. The Status LED will go off after the pushbutton is released. 3. After the inverter reset is completed, press the ON/OFF pushbutton to turn the inverter on. If the inverter reset fails, you will need to perform a power reset using the procedure below. In either case, if an internal fault does not clear, the inverter will require repair at an Authorized Service Center (ASC). Info: The Power ON/OFF pushbutton is a small momentary type switch which operates by lightly pressing and releasing. Be careful not to apply too much force when pushing or the switch might break. 4.4.2 Performing a Power Reset To perform a power reset (also known as a “hard reset”): 1. Open the inverter's positive DC disconnect (or disconnect the positive battery cable to the inverter). CAUTION: If removing all battery power (positive and negative) to the inverter, remove the positive battery connections fi rst, then remove the DC negative connections to the inverter or to any accessory. This will prevent damage to the inverter or to any network connected accessory. 2. Ensure the inverter and the remote are disconnected from all AC and DC power (the remote display will be blank). 3. After the inverter has been disconnected from all power for 30 seconds, reconnect the inverter DC disconnects (or reconnect the positive battery cable) and resume operation. Info: If DC disconnects are not used, there may be a momentary spark when the positive battery cable is connected to the inverter's terminal. This is normal and indicates that the inverter's internal capacitors are being charged.

Yes. My CAC is being tested and repaired (if necessary) today.

Jeff, There’s another recent thread with info on alternators (but not belts) for 2006 Diplomats. Since your coach does not have a DUVAC alternator, you might rethink rebuilding your old L-N. You may be able to use a Delco 28si or similar, or purchase a new L-N for close to the cost of a rebuild. I searched for a reputable rebuild shop for quite a while, and when I found one the cost of the L-N brand parts plus the rebuild was a major portion of the cost of a new alternator. Also, I would rely on Cummins QuikServ before the owners manual for this specific part. My owners manual for my 2006 Dip had the incorrect part number for the belt. (And I only have one belt for the AC compressor and alternator, not two separate ones as indicated in the Owners Manual.) This is from the Dealer Parts list for my 2006 Dip: …and this is from the Owners Manual: Both came from Monaco 🤦🏻‍♂️

Sharing my embarrassment as a reminder to those folks who have rear radiator coaches… Do a good job cleaning that rear radiator! There are other threads here detailing the process, but I want to emphasize spraying cleaner on *both* sides of the radiator and rinsing. I thought I had been cleaning my radiator the six years I’ve owned my Dip - it looked really good from the back of the coach, but I’ve never done much cleaning from the front (engine) side of the coach. Shame on me. Fortunately (and I really mean that!) it sprung a leak after 17 years and 102,000 miles. Wifey said she wanted a new radiator - don’t wait to see if this one can be repaired because if we waited to see if it could be repaired, and then had to order it after they pulled the old one, it could mess up our “big” trip coming up in August. So we ordered a new radiator from Radiator Supply House that arrived last Friday MTR Fleet Services in Cumming, GA pulled the radiator this morning and I was floored at what they found. My coach has only overheated once in the 6 years I’ve owned it, but this is what they found: Radiator: Up close… The entire center of the radiator was completely plugged! The four corners were all blocked. There was a ring of open area around the plugged center where air could pass. Fortunately, my CAC was pretty clean, but will undergo pressure testing, repair if necessary, and cleaning. The squeaky (bearings) water pump is being replaced, a stainless steel Talin Vector surge tank installed, and all new belts and hoses. Charge Air Cooler (CAC)

my apologies if your app looks different; I have the iPhone version… I was also looking at these settings and wondering if you’ve tried increasing the “Adapter Connection Timeout” value to a larger number, like 120? In the “Advanced Settings”, there are also settings that could be adjusted to keep the adapter connected. Try increasing the “Adapter Heartbeat Timeout” to a larger number like 120 seconds. If that doesn’t help, check the “Ignore Heartbeat” as a test to see if that’s what’s causing the disconnection. It says to contact BF Support first, so I’ll simply say “beware” (but I’m the type person who likes to twist the knobs and flip the switches before I ask for help. Your Mileage May Vary…)

Also, since you are an Android user,you can check these settings: Use Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE): Select this to always connect to the Adapter using Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE). This will not be shown for Apple devices as all Apple devices use BLE. For Android and Windows devices this will automatically be selected when connecting to the Adapter but you can speed up the connection time if you have a BLE Adapter and you select this first. This will not be shown if 'Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1)' is checked. You must uncheck 'Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1)' to check this option. Note, a BLE Adapter is an Apple/Android/Windows Adapter and has a square Bluetooth module under the cap (See Adapter Styles above). Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1): Select this to always connect to the Adapter using Bluetooth Classic 2.1. This will not be shown for Apple devices as all Apple devices use Bluetooth Low Energy. For Android and Windows devices this will automatically be selected when connecting to the Adapter but you can speed up the connection time if you have a Bluetooth Classic Adapter and you select this first. This will not be shown if ' Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE)' is checked. You must uncheck ' Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE)' to check this option. Note, a Bluetooth Classic Adapter is an Android/Windows Adapter has a rectangular Bluetooth module under the cap (See Adapter Styles above).

@Yoaks5 Kevin, I agree with Gary that changing to the J1939 bus won't fix the bluetooth dropout problem. Here is what I shared with Gary. I'll take some more pics at the coach over the next week and write up exactly what all I did. In short I made the connection to the J1939 bus in the console left of the driver (where the transmissions shifter, etc. is located) Scotty ***** I bought a splitter off eBay, and a pre-wired plug, then ran the 2-J1939 data wires up the plug. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354323662047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Gfczo2RxTuS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=4JE8IY8nRVa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/354288615555?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Gfczo2RxTuS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=4JE8IY8nRVa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I replaced the j1708 plug with a J1939 plug, and used both the J1708 and J1939 data wires. Here's where I purchased the plug: http://obd2allinone.com/products/j1939m-t2.asp I bought the j1939m-t2j "jam nut" connector with 5 pins, and the j1939pins package of 5 extra pins. (BTW, you need the plug AND pins. Pro tip: get extra pins. They're cheap, and if you mess up, you're dead in the water until you get more.) You will need a good pin crimping tool. Here is a picture of the wiring under the console. At the bottom left you'll see the cable with 3 pin Deutsch (triangular) connectors labeled "ALADDIN" (circled in white). That is where I put the "Y" adapter. The other cable goes to the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Since I had the Aladdin J1939 connector, I felt that was less "risky". I didn't really want to mess with my transmission. Here are the J1939 bus pinouts: ...and the J1939 bus pinouts: I used pins A through G. Pins H and J are not used. A & B are self explanatory. C, D, and E come from the "Y" cable where I tapped off the Aladdin port (pay attention to the orientation - the wires are NOT labeled.) F & G come from the existing J1708 cable. Here is the tool that came with the new port to pull pins from the old port and insert into the new port. Note that the J1708 pins are larger than the J1939 pins, so the pins are cut off and replaced with the pins that come with the port. If I was going to do it again, I'd spend a little more and get a nicer Deutsch pin tool.

Larry, Rick, Here is the Chassis Wiring file converted to PDF. I used large format so you can zoom in close... 38041505 Chassis Wiring.pdf Also, I went by the coach and confirmed my 2006 Dip does indeed have a L-N 110-192 (AKA LBP2180). It is wired as per the diagram Rick provided above (which I added to our files).

@Gary Cole Just to be clear…. The BlueFire will work with the J1708 bus, and Bluefire sells a J1939 to J1708 adapter. It *may* not be able to access as much data, and is certainly a slower update speed. I added the J1708 and J1939 so I could read my ECM, Allison transmission, and Bendix brake system from the front of the coach. It also increases the update rate for the BlueFire substantially.

Use the Aladdin J1929 bus cable in the side console instead of the transmission cable. Less risk! I used a "Y" connector on the Aladdin feed, replaced my J1708 with a J1939 plug, and all works great! I *think* I sent you a PM with info on the Y connector. PS - I still need to write that up...

Rick, I'm heading over to my coach today and will take pictures of my alternator. If you still have the updated drawing please upload it (if you haven't already). My electrical drawings still show the DUVAC alternator 🤦🏻‍♂️; I'd love to get a copy of the correct drawings... at least for the alternator!!

The Aladdin Jr (limited monitoring) was an option on the 2006 Diplomat; I don't see it listed as an option on the 2005 Dip brochure. You may not have any engine/transmission monitoring system. ScanGauge D is an option. See @96 EVO's comments. Several friends have them and like their simplicity and ability to display codes. Bluefire is an option, but be aware the engine diagnostic port on your 2005 Dip is a J1708 and will have limited information available. I have an Aladdin Jr AND a Bluefire. I love the configurability of the Bluefire It's a little work, but you can set it up to monitor what you want, and can customize how it's displayed. Note that you will need some type devices (iPad or Android tablet) to view the Bluefire info on. Silverleaf VMSpec is the most complete (and expensive) system, but has the most functionality, to my understanding... It requires a Windows tablet or laptop to display. Maybe @redstickbill could post some photos or tell us a little more about his system. 😉 Just FYI... The Intellitec Energy Management System (EMS) was an option on the 2005 Dip. You most likely have that to manage your shore power.

@JeffM31, Try the easy fix first: On my 2006 DIp, and on every 2006 Dip I've seen, the section of pipe between the two dump valves (black and gray) will rotate. Gently try to rotate that down (or up) until the dump hose will fit through the hole. Longer term fix (Thanks @Doug Hoegh, Moderator of the FB Monacoers Group for the idea and link to the 6" port) is to replace the 4" port with a 6" port. Here's the one I used and it completely eliminated any issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRAUSMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Photo credit @Doug Hoegh too. 🙂

Total stored in your PM inbox

Folks, I just discovered there was a private message quota of 50 messages, and some of you have been unable to send or receive private messages. My apologies… As admins, we have unlimited messaging so I never realized it had a cap. The limit has been raised to 250. If you still run into a “mailbox full” error, please let me know. I’m not quite sure where the sweet spot is for the membership, but it doesn’t take long to collect 50, so I raised it. If you get a message that you can’t send or receive private messages, it’s not the Admins dissing you. Email us at moderator@monacoers.org and we’ll fix it.

EDITED for clarity… That’s where I store *some* of that stuff in my Dip. I do have it in plastic boxes in case something ruptures. Nothing explosive that a *spark from the inverter* might ignite. I store some hydraulic fluid, antifreeze, and grease in there. No diesel or other fuel; no propane containers (!); no spray cans, etc. Please note I also have an automatic Halon Fire extinguisher in there that was formerly in my refrigerator compartment Your mileage may vary. 🤣

I guess the first question we should ask is what did Bay State Truck Center install? Leece-Neville, Delco 28SI, or something else? It’s critical to know whether they put a L-N DUVAC alternator or something else before heading down the troubleshooting path. The troubleshooting paths diverge depending on what they installed. Having an Alt Chg light may indicate a problem, or not, depending on what was installed, as Myron notes above. My 2006 Dip charging system is completely OEM (at the moment), and I can do things in a certain order that will cause it to come on. And sometimes, it just wants to remind me it’s there…🤷🏻‍♂️ I can drive 2 hours with the genny running with no issue, and suddenly it pops on. Having fully tested it, I can say with confidence that my Trombetta relay, my IRD, and my alternator are functioning properly.

Here is the alternator info for a 2006 Dip. The unit shown below is a direct replacement, per the Presto-Lite (Leece-Neville) website. The 110-912 has been discontinued. Hope that helps!

We tried several method, but in the end we used utility knives to remove the “bulk”, the plastic razor blades and De-Solve-it to get the remnants. I believe Talin uses Boeshield T-9 to help loosen it. Caulk removal is the toughest part. On the other hand, if you use a two handled rivet gun to do all 300 rivets, you can skip “arm day” at the gym…