Dr4Film

Neil, My opinion is that Zip Dee awnings are about the best you can get unless you want to spend tons of money on Girard awnings. Zip Dee is FAR better than Carefree and Dometic and reasonably priced too. http://www.awningsbyzipdee.com/

Not sure if it is a wise decision to place that much weight, freezer and contents in a slide. Another smaller option is to purchase an ARB combo freezer/fridge into a storage slide tray underneath the coach. It won't hold as much as the 5-7 cu/ft freezer. I had to purchase one as I needed it to store a huge Halibut fish that I had caught while fishing in Homer Alaska back in 2015. The unit can be used as a fridge or a freezer depending on the temperature you set it to. They are available in 37, 50, 63 & 82 quart capacities. Here is a link to the 63 quart one that I have. https://tinyurl.com/ufsmte4 it fit very nicely in one of my storage slides.

Scotty, In my endeavor to find a way to repair or replace the small 12 VDC electric motor that drives my hydraulic fluid pump for the Generator slide I came across a person who owns/works for a company in Cincinnati Ohio called Affordable Hose & Fittings. His name is Michael and I would bet that they could repair that hydraulic cylinder as they do a lot of work on snow plowing equipment. But that would require removing the cylinder and shipping it. I would also think that there may be a hydraulic shop in the area where you reside that could do the same thing. I had a small hydraulic leak that happened in my main hydraulic system for my side radiator fan/steering systems. I purchased two quarts of a hydraulic conditioner/sealer from Amazon, added one bottle to the reservoir and no more small leaks. Here is a link to it. https://tinyurl.com/qpf5nnp

Monaco has been dead for years now so the answer is no.

Folks, I posted my dilemma on the Monaco Facebook page and got a response from a person who owns a company in Cincinnati Ohio called Affordable Hose & Fittings. They have the ability to replace the motor with a new one fairly inexpensively. Once I return from the upcoming Monacoers Rally at Lazy Days which starts this Tuesday I will disassemble the unit from the chassis and ship it to them for repair. Here is their web site link. http://www.affordablehydraulics.com/ They also do repairs on HWH, Power Gear and probably many other products that our coaches have that need attention. This is a great contact to include in our Monacoers Parts List.

Bob, I am pleased to read your report of RV Glass Solutions as I have an appointment for Monday February 17th to have our original windshield finally replaced at their shop. Since owning the coach in 2003 we have had numerous very tiny stone nicks and then one huge stone chip the size of a half dollar that we sustained on one of our trips to Alaska. About three years ago one of the tiny nicks high above the drivers side decided to shoot off a crack that grew slowly moving diagonally down towards the curved area over the next 6 months and it finally stopped once it got to the edge of the glass. Been driving with that since then as it really wasn't interfering with my vision. Got an email advertisement from FMCA in regards to RV Glass Solutions and decided to give them a call. It was the easiest and most professional service call I have ever made. As you know their shop is in Lakeland and that's where we are headed after the Monacoers Rally at Lazy Days. They have 50 amp power for us inside a gated area for Sunday night. Then on Monday they will replace the windshield. I asked about the gasket and they said that unless it is damaged then they do not recommend replacing it which would be at my cost. The rain drip rail at the top is separating in three places but they do not replace those and suggested taking it to a RV shop for replacement. However, I am going to fill in the cracks with some type of material once the new windshield has been installed.

Nope, no luck but I have not taken it off of the mounting bracket as yet. I am going to pound on it with a hammer while my brother activates the switch to see if I can knock it into action once again. I did find a used replacement and will purchase it if my idea fails. Then once I have more time to look the failed one over to see if it can possibly be repaired it or I may rebuild it for a future spare.

Joel & Bob, This Sharp microwave is a replacement for the original one. The new one is Sharp Model R1874T. The grease screens are similar except that instead of the plastic tab there is a metal loop laying flat to the screen. Plus it fits very loosely in the slot location. There is nothing that really holds it there. Any more ideas?

Guy, Thanks, yours is much different than mine. I guess one year can make all the difference! Here is a typical photo of mine. It almost appears that the motor cover is pressed on which doesn't make any sense.

Guy, How does the motor disassemble from the pump? How do I get to the insides of the motor? The pump and its components are held to a mounting plate with two hex bolts. That removes the entire assembly which is the 12 VDC motor, pump and reservoir. I did locate a used one at Visone RV Supply but I would like to attempt to resurrect this one if possible or maybe match it up with a new one from someplace. Thanks for any advice!

Well, I did the park brake cycle and NADA. Then I took 12 VDC measurements at the weather plug for the motor and I have lot's of power so it is definitely the motor. I will get someone to help me with a hammer test to see if I can dislodge the armature and get the motor to run. Otherwise it is off to a repair shop to fix it. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Dave, I will give it a go today as it is an easy test. Thanks! What tells me that it most likely isn't is that since it has been parked and not moved I have cycled the generator slide out and in multiple times over the past 3 months without difficulty.

Ivan, Yes the park brake switch is working fine. All of the compartment doors are under the slides on the sides PLUS they have all been bypassed as I was tired of having them go out of adjustment. My plan is to check for 12 VDC at the hydraulic motor and if it is there then I will start beating on the motor to see if it is stuck. There is also a relay that when the ignition key is on it will Lockout the generator slide from working. I am assuming that relay is located on the generator slide-out control board. That will be another thing to look at.

Has anyone come up with an ingenious idea how to keep the two rectangle grease screens from falling out from underneath the bottom of the Sharp microwave? I would certainly be open to any ideas that people have. Thanks so much!

Hi Folks, I needed to run the generator slide-out today and quickly discovered that the hydraulic slide-out motor will not run. I attempted to use the three different switches I have to accomplish the same task and all of them provide the same results, NADA. The relays on the slide-out board do activate when I activate the switches but NADA. Is this pointing to a failed hydraulic motor or have I missed something? Once I have access to another set of hands I will have one person push the switch and I will pound on the motor with a hammer just in case the motor armature has gotten stuck at a specific point of the winding's. Any advice is appreciated!

Bill, For me a side-mounted site-glass would be far better than just a single bubble type site-glass mounted high near the top of the tank which I think you were thinking of possibly. Just my opinion.

I also use the Zerex Green EG Coolant in my Cummins ISC and the main reason for me is that it is the same coolant I use in my Aqua Hot boiler fluid so I only need to carry one type of coolant.

I replaced mine last spring before our yearly trek up north plus installed a new air filter at the same time. I also discovered a tear in the side while doing maintenance on the engine. It was 7 inch RFH Hose and I purchased a 2 foot section from an eBay supplier. Here is the link to the supplier. https://tinyurl.com/udymz7j This same supplier has other diameters also on eBay. I would definitely remove what you have and measure it before ordering to make sure you get the correct diameter and length. The new stuff is quite stiff so I used some Kentucky-windage in my measurement. I didn't have to trim anything off as the ends compressed onto the connections of the air supply duct in the rear cap and the air filter. The only thing I had to do was to relocate the gas spring location somewhat because that was what caused the tear in the air supply hose originally as it turns out.

Do a reboot on the thermostat!

Jerry, you didn't post what model 2002 Windsor and length that you own. I have a PBT model 40 foot with Aqua-Hot and the water pump module is located in the same small bay accessed on the passenger side where the water pump and Aqua Hot are also located. It is on the forward wall next to two fuse holders and HD relay that activates the water pump.

I purchased mine at Veurinks.com

Mel, that specific one has male threads however our coaches require female threaded fuel caps.

Here is one remedy to secure all of your bay, fuel, electric and any other miscellaneous doors on the outside of your coach.

John, Unfortunately those keys are a "dime a dozen" and most RV shops always carry all of the keys necessary to access bays, etc. The only keys they do not have are the ignition and deadbolt keys. Have you confronted the RV shop owner to let them know of your discovery?

Hi Jim, Here is a web site which reduces those humongous website links down to something manageable. FYI https://tinyurl.com/