Hypoxia

That is a sad event. To answer Ken's question, I carry two pieces of about 10.5" X 5.5" drill pipe with me. Any time I get under there I put it in the frame. I do sometimes put the generator out and quickly scoot into the empty space. If an air spring blows I'll just be in a cage until rescued; I make sure I have a cell phone with me! 🥴 That being said, I'm a little guy, thin and agile and am not complacent.

+1, Auto Boss Glass replaced the inner pane in my driver side window.

I have had 3 of the Sanicon Turbo 600 1.5" hoses blow and dump the contents when running them through the garden hose adapter to a 3/4" hose. I think they are poor quality and not strong enough for the pressure the Turbo 600 puts out . They work great when the garden hose adapter isn't used. The ends are glued on. A parts house that sells fire hose etc. may have something that would work.

On my '07 Signature the carpeted face that you are showing comes off. There are always screws buried in that carpeting that are hard to find. I had a roller that pulled the retaining screws out because they weren't installed correctly. Get a rare earth magnet, you'll find them.

Thanks for the report. That 300-5961 board is also in my 12.5 HDKCB Spec B

We aligned and repaired it already. The movement from the torque rod bolt is what caused the cracks as stated in the photos.

I assumed it was a Roadmaster factory job. It could have been done by a previous owner though. It sure was a hack job!

Is there an error code? What model is it? On my 2007 HDKCB Spec B 12.5Kw there is a common problem with the Generator Control Board not sending power to the fuel pump. I think it usually produces a code 36.

Well I had to flap my jaw and say the FDC is OK. Now it is running full speed and the voltage to the solenoid is 1 volt so it is not a connector problem. I ordered the thermostatic control Mikee posted about & will try that. I think one reason the FDC is so expensive is the proprietary programming Monaco has on it which also makes it a 12 week lead time. Danfoss has a Plus+1 Service Tool program available to program them but you need the adapter $$$. Has anyone looked at programming one?

I don't see it as engine related. Monaco did a poor job on a spot weld on the torque rod nut. I think it would have failed on any chassis.

What temperature thermostat is in it? Try wiggling the Sauer Danfoss plug that is connected to the hydraulic solenoid. Mine would switch on & off so I took one apart and it had corrosion which may or may not be a factor. I've had too many other projects to get back to it as I want to replace the connector and put it on a switched circuit since it is powered whenever the batteries are connected.

I haven't seen a 2007 Signature with chassis MUX and a friends 2008 Patriot Thunder also does not have chassis MUX. There were some changes for the 2007 year model that are appealing, IMHO, although they are all very nice. The early ISX engines do have emissions, they have EGR but do not have DPF or DEF. There is a history of the 2007-2010 650HP with EGR and DPF ISX CM871 engines having valve problems but the 2002-2006 600HP EGR ISX CM870 hasn't. Didn't someone have a FRB fire and eventually reverse engineered a chassis MUX board?

I do not think there is a fix. I have friends who have been in the trucking industry for many years. They say the ugly fix sometimes works on one engine and not on another engine for no particular rhyme or reason. Trimline? I cannot find them.

You probably have an Actia Dashboard. Under the dash top cover you should find a control module like this. It has those white, orange and violet wires daisy chained from that module to each instrument. It doesn't matter what order they are in as long as the wires come in to each gauge then out of the other side of the same gauge to the next instrument etc.. In my case I ha a bad board on the module but it is worth re-seating those daisy chained wire harnesses. Module has 2 air pressure lines connected, front & rear air. It changes the pressure to digital. Wire harnesses go to the pressure gauges and to the instrument panel warning lights. After engine start all is normal for a bit, sometimes a minute or two or up to an hour, then the front and rear air pressure gauges start windshield wiping and all of the instrument panel warning lights start flashing on & off continuously until the engine is turned off. Restarting the engine starts the cycle over again. It will sometimes do it by turning the key on (no engine start) and waiting for the above described time.The module had a sticker on the back: Actia 106278 REVA-W-17279-06 and inside on a part attached to the circuit board 105580-B W-17875-06The instrument cluster is Actia.The black plastic piece with 3 black plugs and the pneumatic lines is the part that caused my problem. It screws on to the green circuit board. Actia sold me the entire module, jumpers and this little black plastic piece which I used to make a good spare module.

I have the same ceiling as you so I'm wondering about a different noise solution. It's fairly quiet with those mirrored assemblies but sure could be improved. I have a sheet of 5/8" thick sound absorption stuff I could put up there to see if it changes anything. I lowered the assembly 1/2" a few years ago for improved air flow so I do have room. The Whacko unit is large enough to fit the sound absorption stuff in so I can see how it works on a normal ceiling mount. This is the circular A/C cover my Signature has, the Executive is similar.

The 2007 Signature has a plastic vent louver below the radios at the bottom of the center console. It is Cary Products part 760. I found it at Danhard Inc. with their part number 19-2842 for $5.90 + shipping

I would like to see the compressor pressures on a hot day before and after installing those. Surely they restrict air flow which increases pressures causing the compressor to run hotter reducing efficiency and lifespan. How else can they reduce the noise level?

Photos describe the cause. We welded it and it is back in service. It is amazing how much movement there was.

Bought a couple at the local freightliner dealer for less than $5 each.

The end result is simply applying variable voltage, zero to 12VDC, to the hydraulic valve based on coolant temperature. It doesn't seem like the ECM wire has any effect, as replacing the FDCA with wax valves shows.

Mikee, that is an interesting idea. In my case I have a front mounted condenser so shouldn't have to do anything with that. I noticed the power always supplied to the FDC. My FDC is OK now but switched power may be a good idea to extend its life. I also think the electrical plug at the FDC seemed intermittent in my testing. I plan to order a new plug, it is always exposed to the environment. The thermostat from Amazon appears to be on or off while the FDC modulates the voltage and fan speed. Somewhere out there must be a modulating thermostat?