Hypoxia

Here are the gears

Good job on your part, although you never found the problem? I have a few of the steel gears that came out of a motor as well as a complete Liftmytv setup, motor, controller & TV mount out of a 2008 Patriot Thunder. The motor has some plastic gears and some steel gears. The plastic were OK but the steel gears bound up & broke some teeth. I removed the good gears for spares in case it ever happened again. Liftmytv said someone was probably hanging in it to steal the TV causing the bind.

What style relay is it? Some are continuous duty some intermittent duty. Some are tower relays etc. You could switch to a different style just to see what happens. I would be talking to a guy that rebuilds starters at an auto electric shop, not the parts changer at a diesel shop. Relays

Does the starter relay clunk when the switch is turned to start? If not I would get under there with a screwdriver and short the positive terminal to the starter with the ignition turned to the ON position. If it starts, don't turn it off till you reach your destination. I've had to do that with the last two coaches.

Do you know where your lift control box is? That's where I would start & see if it is sending the 120VAC to the lift. TV Lift Mechanism Trouble Shooting - Monaco 2006 up.pdf

The subject is 12 Volts DC

I have run wires out of a slide through those tubes and into the bay overhead. If your invertor is closer than the battery's you can use it as your source assuming it has a large enough wire to the battery's. Be sure to fill the holes when you are done to keep the critters out.

I have had to unplug the lift controller 120 VAC plug which cured it. It happened enough times for me to move the controller to a more convenient place than above the windshield and behind the stuck TV.

The VORAD indicators are on the right side of the dash. When the ignition key is turned on there is an Amber indicator light and a Green "SmartCruise" light that should be illuminated. Both should extinguish when you push the brake pedal. A failure of the VORAD system will keep the cruise control from working Vorad Installation Guide 2005.pdf Vorad Driver Instructions 2005.pdf

Any VORAD faults? With Cruise Off, simultaneously depress the Cruise On and Set buttons on the smart wheel and have the cruise control function without smart cruise. This may take more than one try. Each time you must first cycle the Cruise Off and then try depressing Cruise On and Set simultaneously again. Usually by the third try it will work and continue to work until you cycle the key off. This was on a VORAD troubleshooting document: Shop Talk If Adaptive Cruise Recovery is enabled, the driver can toggle the cruise enable switch from the OFF position to the ON position two times to get regular cruise control to operate

Hadley 450 Ride Height Valve or one similar. Sometimes you can get it to stop leaking temporarily by disconnecting the arm & moving it up & down a number of times. I've had good service with Hadley, not so much with off brand.

Do you have VORAD? That will lead us down a completely different path for cruise control.

I was wondering if the evaporator is clean or if it has fermongoloids growing on it? Assuming each P trap has water in it, shower included, that side of the system can't leak. An air vent valve can go bad especially in the desert heat and is there a possibility you missed one? I would have expected 3 or 4. You could cover them with saran wrap or similar for a test run. A duct leak to the exterior could cause negative pressure but so does a roof vent fan.

The third relay down is the Hamsar DRL Daylight Running Light Module. My wiring diagram page 113 (bottom Right) shows the top relay to be "BRK" Brake? lights, and the second and bottom relay as spares. Mine has Bosch relays plugged into those three. The black box on the bottom left of your picture should be the Smart Wheel Module. On edit I see page 188 of the wiring diagram shows, I think, what you are referring to. I'll go look at my paper schematic. After reviewing the paper schematic I cannot figure out where you came up with a Smart Wheel component on the 73-00845 board in the FRB.

If you do need a Turbo, everything I have read for the ISX 600 is that it is a Holset VGT turbo. For the slight difference in price I would put a new one on. Is yours a CM870 or CM871? The CM870 had EGR only and the CM871 had EGR and a DPF (diesel particulate filter)

The later model coaches, 2006 or 2007 and later had a Lift It TV lift. I think the delay comes from the Lift It control box. I do not know about the earlier version. I have had key pads that had dirty contacts which required more pressure pushing on the switch. On the subject of the Lift It control box, I have had a few times it "froze" and was unresponsive requiring me to manually lower the TV as the control was above the windshield. I moved it to a different cabinet to allow access. Normally unplugging the 120VAC line and reconnecting cured it. That happened with two controllers. Possibly the delay is due to the distance the signal travels from the front switch to the rear CPU and back to the controller and on to the Lift? I wonder how many folks with multiplexing are aware that many of the 4 button keypads have 6 switches. Simply replacing the face and buttons with 6 place face & buttons turns it into a 6 button keypad, once programmed. Availability of parts is the problem.

They are mainly for when I don't realize the steady wind is increasing or forget they are out. I rarely put the fragile Girard patio awnings out, one $500 wind gust taught me that lesson & it was a small gust. Has anyone tied the Girard awnings down? Seems like a lasso at each end might work.

Does anyone with a 3D printer make the Anemometer plastic piece? All of the replacement cups I have seen are very fragile. The Girard blade type is less fragile but doesn't seem to move with a small amount of wind. I have not found any of the blade type replacements.

I have backups that M&M did but would like to make some changes to a keypad or two thus am interested. I did watch M&M make some keypad changes, it wasn't as simple as I thought it would be.

Neighbor kids that smoke weed say it's not a problem anymore as they always get notice of drug testing and carry a bottle of someone else's pee for the test. That was never an option at the airline as they watched you pee and made sure that didn't happen.

Nice panel. My 172 has a whiskey compass & an iPad. No IMC with it though.

That big odd piece of glass that looks like a glock is the tinted outer glass that was replaced. Auto Glass Boss came to my place, made a diagram and ordered it. It took some time but I had no idea they were so special, working with unique shapes and radiused corners and tint. Looks good enough for me.

Challenger Door bought part of Duncan Systems after the Atwood sale. Any good glass place can order a piece of tempered glass, Auto Glass Boss ordered a L shaped driver side window for me. It was a dual pane outer piece which they installed. It did take some time to arrive.

I use this one. I'm a small guy and can scoot into small spaces easily. I'm also not a stranger to a wrench, however this tool makes life much easier replacing solenoids on my coach. As Dave said, you don't always need the tool, it depends on the space available on each coach. This solenoid is a HWH rebuild and is a spare. Be sure to release hydraulic pressure before removal.

I would invite you to do a show and tell on my 2007 Signature with your large pliers. Possible of course but you will be happy to use the solenoid tool after you bang around in there for a while. I have used both methods.