Hypoxia

I used this Air Spring . It is not an easy job for some of them, the ones between the drive & tag were easy. hockeydiesel on the other forum was a big help. Just break off any brass air fittings that cause problems with air shock removal. 2013AirSpringCrossReference.xlsx Firestone Air Spring Replacement Guide.pdf

Do you have a voltmeter, VOM? I normally remove the remote and hook it up at the inverter with a different data wire, frequently the wire is pinched somewhere. Call Magnum Tech support.

PM me when you are in town. We come & go quite a bit.

Mine is right beside the Magnum Inverter Charger. Which model AGS and Charger?

I've been undecided which direction to go westbound this year, guess that may help decide!

Here's others with a similar problem. Coolant Temperature sending unit

Yes nearly half the year. Should be there in late Sept. for a bit.

Common leak is at the fitting at the compressor which is difficult to see in many cases. Other fittings also but the compressor is where there is quite a bit of heat and vibration. My approach would be to replace all of the crimp connections and hose from the compressor to the rear charging ports and a short piece (12") from the ports to the hose that goes forward. The old hose will usually seal at the new fitting but most shops won't warranty that as it isn't 100%. That doesn't cover the condenser or evaporator but does cover the high heat and vibration areas. Oil travels with the refrigerant so any damp areas indicate a leak. Like others here have offered, you could use my crimper if in the Phoenix area but it may be a good investment. Then there is the Vacuum pump you will also need.........

A shop vac connected to the drain hose at the front & rear should suck any debris out. I used a leaf blower by putting a funnel on the suction side of the blower and sticking the small end against the drain line. Give it enough time to suck it all out.

My ISX uses an "O" ring Cummins 4331267

Normally just that corner will lose air and deflate, however, the front will lean that way also since there is just one control valve up there.

If it is the hydraulic slide it is normally caused by the solenoid mounted on the hydraulic pump located under the entry step. You can try holding the switch for a few seconds after it is fully extended, sometimes that will help. You can locate the solenoid by unplugging the solenoid plug one at a time until the slide doesn't extend. HWH does a fast turnaround if you send it in for rebuild and very reasonable pricewise. Release the pressure before unscrewing the solenoid, it is very tight in there space wise. Your Owners Manual discusses the Hydraulic System on page 231 Monaco HWH Solenoid Valve Replacement & Positions Noble III.pdf HWH Service Bulletin.pdf

The rear is the most important adjustment as it will affect the front more than the front affects the rear. The ride height valves are not extremely accurate and can vary a little. I find I get better results by driving it to see where it ends up. I adjust the rear based on the airbag in front of the drives and don't bother checking the other rear bags. I adjust the front based on which one is easier to measure and ignore the other. You aren't building a timepiece.

Alaska is another option once things get back to normal. Polar Bears I flew DC-3's into Barter Island daily 40 years ago. Polar Bears are interesting.

Did you get them from Amazon or a dealer?

This one is by the engine (ISX) and the other one is in the driver side console at the forward end.

Terminating resistors? I have two that I know of, one by the engine and one in the drivers side console.

From your 2009 Dynasty Owner Manual Page 125: Air Seal The entry door is equipped with a one-piece air seal to reduce wind and road noise. The seal automatically inflates when the the transmission shifts into 2nd gear. The entry door seal will inflate to approximately 3 to 4 psi. The pressure regulator control valve is located behind the front cap on the curb side of the generator. When the transmission is placed in neutral, the entry door seal will deflate. CAUTION: If the pressure regulator should require adjustment, do not exceed 5 psi. Damage to the seal will occur.

I installed the new LED Hella Step Lamp in the stair well. Quite a bit brighter than the original. I'll replace the second one today. On the photo, the lower step has the new LED light. I have a spare which I would like to use to illuminate the door handle. How do you folks find the interior door handle at night? I suppose a strip of reflective tape might help but figure one of you master minds have figured out a solution?

I use a Protect a Tow which was given to me, Ivan's setup is as good or better. After a few thousand miles I still think it is worth having. I never remove it except at the stick house. I just fold it over on top of the tow bar when parked.

I’ve been hearing daily rates of $300 and up for cars when you do find one. This may be the best year ever for RV touring. Lots of businesses closed due to no help. Kids from all over the world that normally work the summer are not coming. Booney camping is not affected by any of that.

We are wandering around Alaska in a rental 24’ Thor Chateau class C. No crowds, no air conditioning, campgrounds are empty. The little camper is great as it fits anywhere. We mostly stay in the boonies or friends driveways. It did get into the low 70’s for a couple of days but normally we are wearing everything we brought to stay warm. I’ve been told that all rentals are sold out up here, RV’s and Cars. I made the reservation in February.

The remote is, I believe a model 104. A few years ago Fantastic Vent still had the makings and could put one together. I would call them & see. The top lid had a lifetime warranty and they came out with an insulated version which they sent me at no additional cost. That also was a few years ago but was after they sold out to Dometic or whoever bought them. Model 104 Wall Control

I think Stephen got it. Your Owners Manual shows Moen as the faucet vender. Moen 4000

I did find THIS post which states they are Ford license plate lights. Of course that's just a teaser since Ford has been making many models for about 100 years now. It does show the assembly which helps quite a bit for removing it. I did remove the light and found the number 994.555-00 stamped on the light, That crosses to a Hella Marine 2JA 958126-001 Step Light