Hypoxia

I'm not following that logic. The compressor doesn't do anything different in heat or cool. The high side is always the high side. Are you charging it after the reversing valve? I can see that working but never considered it before.

They are crap and should be re-engineered. I have blown two or three of them. Not a pretty sight. Thetford should be notified and they will honor a 12 month warranty.

Compressors rarely fail. Check the capacitors and PTCR. Unless the capacitor is bulging or leaking a meter is necessary. The PTCR usually stinks of burnt electrical when bad and frequently is physically disintegrated. It is normally on the capacitor terminal.

There is a DOT number on the lower corner of the glass, mine is on the drivers side. That is what is needed. Mine was replaced with a Coach Glass windshield DOT 623 AS1 M60

What caused the chain failure? I'm getting some creaking with both slides with X Slides. I figure they need lube although HWH manual says no need for lubrication.

I raise the tag frequently when on soft ground and when I need a tight turn radius. It takes a few minutes to come up and for the drive air bags to adjust height so I don't do it on the fly. On soft ground the tag has to be raised so the drives don't spin. It also allows more wood to be added for levelling.

I was camping on a ranch south of Walden CO on Tuesday with no cellular service so I missed your post. I'm glad you found the plug though. There are two camps on the repair; One camp says get a new electronic controller. The other camp says put in a wax valve. The wax valve camp is very vocal as you have seen and I am sure they will pipe in again. And again. I am in the camp that would keep the electronic controller If I could get one. If you wish to pursue the electronic controller get the part number off of that controller & I can help you with the replacement part number.

I knew there were flying termites in California where they tent an entire house to fumigate them. Perhaps they figure there is no other good way to treat a motorhome for subterranean. Subterranean termites are common throughout the South and they start out needing ground contact but can live in a log or a house for a long time without ground contact. I have seen subterranean termites living in a log that has not had ground contact for a year. Fipronil is what I use to treat them which comes in many brand termiticides. Permethrin is also used and I cannot think of a good way to treat a motorhome with either one.

TriMark

The sink light is a Liteco model 176. The porch light is a Thin-Lite model 162A. Both are 12 volt fixtures

Have you called Valid?

Works on my 12 volt lights so far. They are nice. Thanks Tom for finding the GE LED Tubes, I put two of the 12" ones in the sink light and two in the porch light.

As Tim says, you have an undetermined problem. Did you figure out if you have the electronic fan control or wax valve? Cummins Insite will not show that which leads me to believe Kenworth didn't really do any real troubleshooting. You should be able to run over any pass in Colorado without overheating.

As you can see by Terry's post, there can be a variety of causes. The Switch pad has its board but there are other MUX (Multiplex) boards that would be more likely. As a "for instance", I had galley lights that would turn on or off randomly. I eventually realized it only happened when the bedroom door was closed. There is a door switch to prevent the slide from being retracted with the door closed (crushing it). The module that controlled that was above the windshield and had a bad component. I was able to simply move the wire to another terminal and change the DIP switch for that terminal. I would have never figured it out and would be currently residing in an Insane Asylum but for Jason (Rev Group Coburg) figuring it out and sending me the wiring diagram page that is not in the book. That was prior to them divorcing the pre-bankruptcy owners. Do you have a bunch of MUX boards in the rear closet or bath?

Is your lighting is switched by the Intellitec Multiplex System or by normal wall switches?

Intellitec board may be going bad. Fairly common in my experience.

If it is the electronic Sauer Danfoss control, Unplug the fan control & it should go to high speed continuously. If the fan control module fails it reverts to high speed.

I found a note from another Actia windshield wiping and flashing lights problem that was caused by water in the connectors of the Front Run Bay F1 panel Intellitec 73-00835 board.

Kevin, that looks like an Actia Dash. Those Orange, Violet, White wires are daisy chained from one gauge to the next. You can change wires from one to the other as well as changing the gauges they go to & from. The only requirement is to have them go into one side of a gauge & out of the other side of that gauge and then over to another gauge in any order. I see someone added a blue Scotch Clip to a wire between the gauges. If it goes to any of those daisy chained wires that would be a problem.

It's interesting to see the difference between the 2007 Navigator and Signature. Here is the air module on my 2007 Signature

Yes it uses a 35 amp fuse which requires larger wire depending on the length of the run. I used 10 gauge.

With my Sanicon Turbo 600S I have been using 1 1/2" Lay Flat Discharge Hose this summer. I bought a 300' roll and cut several lengths; 25', 50' and 75'. I put 1 1/2" plastic hose couplings on each end and use a piece of 1 1/2" coolant hose to join them when needed. I also have two of the 21' flex hoses from Sanicon that I join which gives me a total length of around 190'. I left 150' at my stick house this year but will bring at least 50' of that next season. I had occasion to use all 190' twice and shorter lengths a number of times, all on relatively level ground. The lay flat hose works great and doesn't take much storage space. There have been zero issues with flow and that large hose sure gets the job done in a hurry, 100+ gallons in less than 10 minutes on flat ground. The one restriction on the lay flat is that it cannot have any kinks, the run must be fairly straight. If I need to go around a corner I would place a Sanicon flex hose in that position.

You can listen to your engine while backing up, you sure won't hear your marshaller tell you when to stop! The only use for audio that I can see is when using the camera at night to hear what is going on back there. That is also the reason I would prefer a newer camera with better night vision as well as brighter rear docking lights, basically a security camera. That would require the new camera to have audio and I don't know which ones do.

What else have you done? First, that filter is restricting air flow. You need a non-restrictive filter like the $2 ones. Have you made sure the A/C units have the correct foam seal between the cover and the unit and that they are sealed with metal tape and not leaking air? Have you checked for leakage on the ceiling where the A/C units flow into the ducting? There was a thread here recently that discussed the large improvements made by doing those things.

Should be a set screw holding it on.