Steven P

Oops, I should have reread the post. Thanks for clarifying. Were there any other changes made around the time of the new tires? Bearings, brakes, etc.?

I had a similar situation in my 06 Dip w 1.5 baths. GFCI in bathroom would randomly trip. Happened when we were gone a few hours and came back to find fridge warming up bc of the GFCI being tripped. I replaced the GFCI and it continued to happen. Looked into GFCI's more and found they have changed over the years and are more sensitive now. Replaced the new one with one in pic and no issues since. I also checked the wiring and made a list of what's on GFCI vs not on it. Then I changed the fridge line so if the GFCi tripped again, the fridge would not be affected. All good since then.

I've been watching this w interest. Recently installed larger tires just on the front of my coach and did not notice any mileage differences. @saflyer, were you checking mileage leading up to the tire change? Or had you stopped watching mileage for some time, then restarted after the change? Any other work done on the coach before the mileage change? Have you talked to the people who did the work w your observations?

I just replaced my front 275/80r/22.5 with 295/70r/22.5 per recommendations from others and have no issues. I was curious so I looked into your 04 Beaver and saw a thread on irv2.com w someone asking your same question. Interesting responses about clearance, but also some concern w power loss. Here's a link: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/tires-for-our-monaco-diplomat-433811.html It also references a tire calculator that was handy. See attachments. And here's that link: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=275-70r22.5-275-75r22.5 The 295vmay be too big of a jump for your coach in my nonprofessional opinion. Also, your coach seems to be equivalent to an 04 Monaco Diplomat, so search those some too for other threads. Good luck. Steven Edit: @throgmartin may can chime in here. His coach came w the same size tires as yours per the brochure and I think he's installed larger ones. Pic below from brochure of 05 HR Ambassador brochure.

@johncvandoren@gmail.com I have a ScanGauge on my 06 Dip connected to a port at the steering wheel. When I had transmission issues, the only port the tech could find with transmission data was under the engine hatch. The 2 or 3 at the front of the coach only had engine data. My Aladdin Jr display does she trans temp for me. ScanGauge will not for me.

@Robert92867 thank you. It has served me well.

@Scotty Hutto you're right, I did replace both of them. We haven't been able to use the coach as much, but the new units do keep it cooler and then the compressors kick on and off it's so much quieter and without that shudder.

Thanks for clarifying. I'm not familiar w this setup and think Tom has a good answer for it. Good luck w it.

I tow a Gladiator and do not have any switches. The switch you refer to, what does it do and is it stock or aftermarket? I've heard of switches to turn off the battery to prevent drain while towing. Maybe others can chime in too.

This is true. It's nice to have a group of people with common interests more interested in helping each other than shaming each other. It's like some people have to put others down to feel better about themselves. Thank you all!🍻

@JeffM31 I have an 06 Dip w 3 slides and worked through the electrical figuring out what was on what. I've had 2 main issues: the microwave outlet almost caught fire. Since then, ive been trying to go through replacing the stock outlets. @Scotty Hutto has same coach and his looked the same when he checked it. 2nd issue is the fridge (residential) was on the GFCI line and when that plug was faulty, it would trip the GFCI and shut down the fridge. Not good when you're gone for several hours. I replaced that outlet w a similar GFCi and still had issues. Changed to another brand (hubbell?) and no more issues. However, I traced all the outlets and decided there was no need to have the fridge on GFCI so I swapped it at the outlet so even if it trips, it doesn't shut off power to the fridge. Pics below. Also, for that fan, the PO tapped into the 12V above the dresser and installed a 12V fan. Works great for the bedroom. Also a pic.

Google Nason Park brake switch to see if it matches. . This is what I used. Price went up of course. https://rveliteparts.com/products/rev-rv-10119016-park-brake-switch?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=mid-performers&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_O2lBhCFARIsAB0E8B-QPuV6-orv-zwBpcDNgvyYUiWCHak7cJpRyLQEhA1VlcFQCIsrpZIaAg-5EALw_wcB

@deputylynch You'll have to bend/flex that panel if it looks like mine to remove the panel to get to the water reel. It's doable. I did it once, but it's a pain and i worried I was gonna break the panel. It didn't break, but with a cut, it's a lot easier to remove. You will have to reach up and unhook all plumbing from behind the panel. Take pics and notes and don't be in a rush.

Are you referring to the water hose or electric cord power reel? If water reel, I had to remove the panel in my wet bay, but I cut it in half to make it easier to remove and then only had to remove one half of the panel. Next if I remember right is removing 4 nuts, bolts that hold the reel in place. Remove the reel, drill out 4 rivets on the side where the gears are located and open the cover. Snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring holding the broken gear in, replace w new gear and snap ring. Grease it up. Then I tested mine before replacing the cover and 4 new rivets to hold the cover. Put the reel back in. I think that was easiest w the hose pulled out. Pics below of what I took. I think the hardest part of memory serves me right, was putting it back in and the 4 nuts due to tight access. But overall it's a pretty straightforward job. Let me know of I can help. Last pic shows a strip of gorilla tape hiding my cut. Googled it and found this video on our site. https://youtu.be/wCFmLTa4y0k

You're welcome and you may be on the right track if the house batteries are failing and some charging issues are happening and spilling over to the chassis batteries. Safe travels.

@Baldfuzzz sorry to hear you've been ill. Replacing the clearance lights is not too bad. I ordered mine online. The old ones will crack and fall apart as you remove them so have a broom ready for cleanup. Biggest point I'd make: make sure you don't let the wire go back in the hole when you cut them. Put some tape or something on the wires to keep them from disappearing into the front cap abyss. @Keith MoffettI wish ours had come w the full Aladdin system instead of the Jr. But you figure out workarounds.

@tomevansfl. What you may be experiencing is a pretty common issue. Slight overcharging w the genny and engine running. Next time, try turning your headlights off and see if the warning goes away. If you don't usually run your genny while driving and this only happens w the genny and engine running, that's probably it and not a concern. Mine does it a fair amount of the time, especially when my inverter is in "bulk" charging mode. I have an Amp L Start so the chassis batteries will stay charged when on genny or shore power. Hope that makes sense. Otherwise, check your chassis battery voltage w the engine running and see what you have across the posts, not on the dash gauge. It's always possible for an alternator voltage regulator to go out.

Here are some pics of the rot I had. @throgmartinsaid my surface area was close to the limit of repairing without pulling the whole slide out. That area has a large plate there now after they removed all the rot and repaired it.

Tim lazaroe at rvcams.com is very helpful and can work you through troubleshooting. I'd suggest going to their website and find his info and call for him. Mention my name. Just be careful, he's an LSU fan 😂.

When I took mine in, the amt of rot on one side was bad. Chris's team fixed the rot before applying the guardian plates.

You should be able to put a small TV on the dash and plug the RCA cables from the Aladdin box into it to see if it's the monitor or not. My monitor wasn't working when I bought the coach. New monitor from rvcams.com and all good. Used command strips to hold it up. Added a splitter to share the camera feed to the stereo I added.

Yes, it sits above the driver's seat w the black box on top of the silver receiver.

If you Google beltline molding, you'll see lots of options but they will need to be painted to match. If there is one 2 screws, I wouldn't worry. I think sometimes they are used to prevent it from coming loose.

@throgmartin Ya know! If you weren't so far away, Ray has a good idea! Ya don't need nuts when you're using rivets!! 🤔😂 @Scotty Huttomaybe Chris isn't so far away after all. Up for a road trip? You bring the scallops, I got the rest (scalpels) covered. Btw, I'll be selling t shirts w the above slogan at Talinrv.com soon.

@Doug Hoegh @Scotty Hutto Sorry for the late response, long work day. However, mine seems different, esp w the codes. Mine ended up being wiring. The cable that left the tranny and went to the computer was ziptied at a sharp angle ultimately leading to a shirt in the wiring. New cable fixed it. Also Doug, the only transmission code port is in the engine hatch and mine was black. The engine ones are all gray. In case the tech needs help finding it like mine did. On a similar note, we had a neighbor whose old Mercedes hadn't been driven in years and the transmission wouldn't shift at all but the gear selector would. 4 quarts of transmission fluid and it shifted again. I'm guessing you checked the level? Best wishes!