Jim McGarvie

Disregard. Problem solved. I found a post on IRV2 which said all circuit breakers must be on for the EMS panel to function normally. I had turned off the circuit breaker for the front A/C because it is running continuously (another issue; stuck relay maybe?). I turned that breaker back on and the EMS panel is now indicating correctly.

We have an Intellitec 50 AMP Smart Energy Management System (EMS) Model 750. We are currently plugged into a good (verified by Progressive PT50C) 30A receptacle. At one point our EMS indicated a 50A source rather than 30. I started the generator and the panel correctly indicated "GEN SET", but when I killed the gennie it went back to indicating 50A. I was able to reset it by killing all power (AC and DC), waiting a bit, then re-establishing power. It indicated normally for a day or so, then went back to the 50A indication. I tried the reset procedure again, twice, but this time it didn't help. So my questions are, what causes this malfunction, and how can I fix it? Do I need a new control board? Thanks. Jim

Thanks to those that responded. I have to admit, though, that even as a fairly capable DIY mechanic the job sounds a bit more daunting than I expected. I.e., I did not anticipate the need to remove the radiator etc. I think this is beyond my desire, if not my skill set, and we don't have time before our next trip to have it accomplished. I do agree, though, with the suggested work while the radiator is removed. But for this trip I will just carry a new pump, tensioner and belt, JIC. The leak is so small at this point there is no coolant on the floor.

My mechanic was trouble-shooting something else and noticed coolant leaking from the water pump weep hole. I think that means I need to replace the pump pretty soon, before the leak reaches the pump bearing. Is this the same pump as on the Dodge pickup with that engine? And how big a job is it to replace in the motorhome application? Thanks. Jim

That is one reason I also have the Progressive EMS.

Hi Chuck, I'm curious about Bill's recommendation. We have both the Hughes Autoformer and the Progressive portable EMS. I installed the Hughes first, after a brown-out in an RV park cost us a TV. But I think the capabilities of the EMS are more important.

I've been using mouse milk for years on the Pacbrake. I use it because we use it on turbocharger wastegates for airplanes, and those get pretty warm too. But I'm a big fan of Tri-Flow so might switch to that.

Thanks Richard. I have decided to try the Zero G. The light weight and ease of handling are very appealing. Jim

Those look great! Thanks Dick.

Thanks Scotty.

I have a couple of Camco water hoses (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ME11FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that were highly rated, but I think they are terrible. Contrary to claims, they kink easily and are difficult to coil up, even when warm. Can anyone recommend something else for me to try? Thanks! Jim

I find this discussion quite interesting, and I am curious how much of it applies to our little 5-speed Allison 1000 with the 5.9L ISB engine. I have experimented a bit with the Econ mode, but couldn't detect a significant difference so I don't use it. On uphill grades I tend to downshift manually when I decelerate to about 1900 RPM, which jumps the RPM up to around 2500. The engine seems happier.

Most of the time we hear about good camping areas from friends. We have often camped in our local national forests, and because of our proximity we usually scout out suitable sites in our Jeep before making the trip in the motorhome.

Thanks, JD. I will check out your tips.

My wife and I have been RVing for about 45 years, and about 90% of the time have been boondocking. But that has always been camping in the desert or the forest with a group. We are about to take a trip in Arizona during which we will want to stop overnight and are considering boondocking, probably west or south of the Phoenix area off of the I-10. I am interested in experience and suggestions. We would consider rest areas, Walmarts, or just out in the middle of the desert somewhere. Thanks.

I replaced ours with an aluminum from Source, and dittos the kudos to them. I also checked Talin (Chris Throgmartin), but theirs was too large. The takeaway is be sure to carefully measure your space and make sure you check measurements of a replacement before buying.

My Rear View Safety camera is on whenever the key is. I like it that way.

About three years ago I replaced our old camera with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GM5GKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was able to reuse the original cable with this: RVS splice kit: https://www.rearviewsafety.com/splice-kit.html. It wasn't a bad job once I figured out the old wire color coding.

We have one of those. I believe Lyght and Esco are one and the same.

Out of curiosity, Bill, how old was the tire that blew?

I changed our little 8 cu.ft. Norcold for a 10 cu.ft. Magic Chef a little over a year ago. Not the greatest brand, perhaps, but it fit and has been working fine. What a difference!

That's fabulous! Thanks so much, Frank!

Incredible project(s), post and pictures, John. Quite a family too! Congratulations.

What brought this up? Was there some question about that? Monaco made Knights for several years. We bought one in 2001, although it turned out to be a model year 2002. We still have it; it has been great.

Should have been visible in my signature block. It is a 2002. I can just barely hear the pump run from the driver's seat with the bed and engine cover up; it is easy to hear from the bedroom. To prime the system after a filter change I have to turn the key to tap the starter, then the pump will run for 20-30 seconds and stop. Then I need to turn the key off for about 10 seconds before another attempt. It typically takes several attempts before I can start the engine.