pwhittle

Hi Neil, @vanwill52 has one that has never been installed available. It is located near Pinehurst, NC.

Hi Doug, I sent you the details by a Private Message on this forum. Paul

I checked fuel pressure on one last weekend and it was over 200PSI. Adjusted it back to 145PsI, but the coil was not sparking. Paul

Hi Brad, Mine failed in a similar way to what you describe. The board thinks it is turning the motor on, but I it does not. The error code is that it never changes the limit switch it expects to change if the motor actually came on. Count the flashes on the one that is flashing and that will tell you what the error code is. Paul

I faced this on our 1994 Signature. The solution was to install a bridge rectifier in the wiring for each LEDbulb. The two inputs can be GND or 12V, when one is GND and the other Is 12V the output -ve will be GND and the output +ve will be 12V These ones are rated at 2A, which is plenty for a single marker LED. (Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 2W10 Bridge Rectifier Diode 2A 1000V WOB Single Phase, Full Wave 2 Amp 1000 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KD43YG Paul

Scotty sent me a file and I 3D-printed a couple for him. I forgot to take a picture before I mailed it to him. Scotty, can you post a picture when you get it?

Scotty, We don’t need “professionals”. Paul

Our 2005 Signature has some of those screws converted to bolts and nuts with fender washers. Paul

Hi Tom, What does the pump look like? Do you have a picture/ part number? I had a 1994 Crown Royale and was able to rebuild mine. If it the same, I will dig out the part numbers and where to get them. Paul

It would be in the window awning motor. Perhaps it is intentional, but the replacement motors don’t do it. Paul

Hi Mike, The $125 was a speculative target price suggested a long time before I understood the cost and effort to get these ready for sale. I do offer a special Monacoers only price if you PM me through this forum for two reasons: To reward all the help and support given in this forum, and because it is a members only forum so this is not available to everyone. NW RV Supply has all manner of overhead to run their business and I do not begrudge them making money on the things they sell. They offer a tremendous service to us RV’ers and that is how they stay in business. I do request that the Monacoers special price is not disclosed on this forum or elsewhere out of respect for NW RV Supply and their business. Paul

I also have some small screwdrivers in order to add to the kit. Plastic handle so easy to drill if you want. Paul Not really. For the time I have in this one I could have bought everyone new toilets. 🙂 I see there are a couple on eBay with a new one is listed for $200. Paul

Thanks for the feedback Bill. I have some more connectors on order to be able to make extensions for all the wires if you need them. Did anyone else have a similar issue? Paul

Replacement controller boards are now available for the Magnum Sealand Opus 3110 electronic toilet! This is Part number 385310887. This board has been unavailable for over 10 years and many of the boards are starting to fail in different ways. Symptoms of a failing/failed control board are motors not turning on, flappers staying open, slow motor movement and other errors. The original boards have a conformal coating on them that makes troubleshooting and repair less straightforward than uncoated boards. The replacement is a new design and incorporates a display to show the state of the controls in plain English text and the status rather than the row of status LED's. It also uses a motor control chip rather than mechanical relays so there are no moving parts to wear out. The new controller is plug compatible with the two types of boards that were used: One with the two switches on the left, and the one with a switch at each end of the top of the board. NW RV Supply is now carrying them. http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/385310887AM.html Some discussion and user feedback is available here: In recognition of the help and support offered by so many here, there is special Monacoers pricing available if you PM me direct through this forum. Paul

Hi Rick, Mine has done that a few times but I have not found a way to make it happen. It does seem to happen after the battery cutoffs are turned back on so it may be an interaction when the inverter starts inverting. I can't recall if it happened when I had the original Xantrex or only after I updated to the Magnum PSW Inverter. I have replaced the motors (quite a job) on the two bedroom window awnings, and I have not seen it happen with them. I recently saw it on the drivers side lounge window awning which is still the original motor. Paul

Thanks for the feedback Bill (and others). Your old controller will also store in the anti static bag and box that the new controller ships to you in. I have completed some controllers that are ready to ship if anyone needs/wants one. They are now available through NW RV Supply. http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/385310887AM.html Message me through this forum only for special pricing. Paul

On our 2005 SIgnature I started getting an ABS code for the drivers drive axle. The issue was that the wire for the sensor was wiretied too tight and it prevented the sensor from maintaining the correct distance from the tone wheel on the rotor. i was able to pull some slack through and it was fixed. Paul

I recently bought the Milwaukee Fuel 3/4” impact wrench. 1400 ft lb loosening and 1200 ft lb tightening torque. It has no problem taking nuts off my coach and Van Williams coach. I use a 475 ft lb torque stick to put them back on. Paul

Yes. Definitely high pressure. It is tee’d before the regulator on the main tank. Paul

Our 2005 Signature has a port on the passenger side that is plumbed with iron pipe. It is high pressure teed off before the regulator. I will likely convert it to a tee after the regulator. Paul

I am glad to see you are in operation again Bill. Bill’s board was from the first run of prototype PCB’s and he got priority as they were without a working toilet. This board is compatible with the two models of boards I have seen. One has two switches on the left hand side, and the other, later one has a switch on each side with an additional Manual Operation mode available by moving the right hand switch to the right position. The board has an OLED display to show the status of the switches and the operational state of the flapper, motor, and water valve. This is easier to understand than the multiple LED’s on the original board. It supports the same functions, including three water levels, a Service mode to open the flapper for cleaning and lubing the seal, and a Manual Operation mode if you want to to try to manually operate the mechanism through the hole in the side of the porcelain. Early Opus models had a metal arm and a flat head screw slot to manually open and close the flapper, Later models had a plastic arm with a flat screwdriver slot and a 7/16” hex head. I did not have much success with the plastic arm version and caused damage to the plastic arm which failed shortly after. I expect the metal one was more durable, but that it was tough to manually operate. I have also had reports of some Opus models that do not even have the hole in the porcelain. The new controller board is housed in an enclosure for improved protection for the circuit board and its components. Additional circuitry has been included to protect against static and other noise and transient spikes. The software has safety code that will detect a blocked flapper, stop the motor to prevent damage, and set an error code with a text display on the display. Once you clear the blockage, you can put the controller into Service Mode to clear the error, then put it back in Normal mode and retry the operation. The project turned into substantially more work and costs than I had anticipated and hoped for. Unfortunately I will not be able to offer them at the target $125 price that I shared with Bill Groves at the Gathering in February. For others that would like to purchase a replacement control board, I will have some more built up in the next couple weeks. The next revision has an improved placement of the 3 position connector for the flush/fill switch so that it is in the original position. The enclosure will also have the switch operations printed on it. I am in discussions with a well regarded RV retailer who would offer them for sale as I get them completed. However I will be offering a friends and family discount to fellow members of this Monacoers forum if you PM me through the board here. This discount will not be available through any other forum and is in recognition and appreciation of all the help and support that is given on this forum. If you are buying one as a spare, I recommend you take out your working controller and install the new controller so you can make sure it works. You will be able to safely store your original working controller as a spare in the anti static bag and shipping box that the new controller will arrive in. On our Opus I found the 8 position cable to the mechanism was pretty short and it made getting to the screws holding the cable connector to the board somewhat of a challenge without removing the toilet. I will have some extension cables available to make future swap outs easy. You can check to see on yours how easy it is to maneuver the board and get a 1/8” flat screwdriver on the screws retaining the connector to the board. If it is not easy, I recommend also ordering the extension cable. I look forward to any feedback on the installation or operation of the board for future improvements. Paul

Congratulations! I have some part for that filter if you want them. Paul

I have not used the new cord in cold weather, but it is SEOW which is pretty flexible. My old cord had the same issue with needing to push it in. My collection bucket screws had come loose and it was moving around some. The PVC pipe was no longer connected. It was a mess. As part of replacing the cord, I had the whole bucket and mechanism out and cleaned and lubed up the adjustment bolt threads. I also welded up a frame to go around the bucket base to provide additional screws into the floor to keep the bucket secure. I wanted to use bolts and large washers, but there is a thin metal plate below the floor that stopped that idea.

I meant to type Newmar. I suspect that @scottyHutto has installed a filter so than no other brands can be mentioned on the forum, 😀

I did not get the whole 100’ in. I still have what is left to make an extension cord. Paul