waterskier_1

How did CoachNet pay four you HWH bill? Do they offer an extended warranty with their premium product? - Rick N

I have had AAA for over 30 years. I had the RV +++ or whatever the call the top tier coverage. The first time was when I was run off the road. The State Patrol called the towing company and they sent two Class 8 tow trucks. Since the operation was just to get me out of a ditch, and I was on so sever a slope that I had to crawl out the drivers window because the door was hitting the ground. Everyone was amazed it did not roll. On truck was connected just to keep me from rolling down the ditch, while the other pulled me out. The damage was minimal (as far as driving) and I was NOT towed, but drove to the Towing companies lot where I purchased and rigged a turn signal to replace the damaged one. This company did not accept AAA, nor was AAA called (there was no cell phone service, and the State Patrol Officer had to drive 4 miles just to get radio contact. I presented the bill to AAA and denied it since there was no Towing. It was considered "Recovery" which they don't cover, unless a tow in also required. The second time was to inflate a tire that had gone flat and the bead had come off the rim. AAA said they would have to tow it to a tire store. They called back and said the only Class 8 Tow truck was 250 miles away, and wouldn't be available for 3 days. I told them that all it needed was a mobile tire repair guy but they told me they don't have anyone that can do that under contract. Now this was in Denver, CO, not some tiny town 100's miles from civilization. I called a tow company, and the came, removed the inner dual, reseated the tire, inflated, and reinstalled for about $100. I presented the bill to AAA who declined it saying I didn't get prior approval. After escalating to higher management, they finally paid and I quit the expensive RV +++ towing. I still have the basic AAA for my other vehicles, and am reasonably happy with their service on cars. I switched to FMCA, but have yet to use it. I got a notice for renewal (I've had it for 5 -6 years) and tried to find out my renewal date. FMCA couldn't help. They have nothing to do with the Roadside Assist other than to advertise and get a discount (?) for members. It's more like their tire purchase program. I'm not happy with the lack of website (it goes by another name - I don't remember - who farms out insurance to lots of groups). I'll be seriously considering CoachNET when this policy expires (next year - they wanted me to renew 6-months early). Others experience may vary. I think AAA in general is okay, but they don't have contracts with many Class 8 Towing facilities. Only 3 within 5-miles of Denver. -Rick N.

Take note that you Diplomat's 8K generator does not output 220 VAC. You have to go to the 10KW or 12.5KW to get real 220 VAC (split-phase). So, if you did this mod, you would not be able to operate the dryer on your generator. Also, as Dennis points out, if you are contemplating at 50 Amp, 220 VAC dryer (typical residential dryer) it would require the 12.5KW generator. -Rick N.

Tom, you are correct regarding the differences in model years for the Windsor. I found the following based on the Wiring Diagrams I have which matches your post. Windsors in 2000 had Single Input/Single Output (SI/SO) Inverters. 2000+ Dynasties (Not including REV products which I have no information or experience) had Dual Input/Dual Output (DI/DO) inverters. Starting in 2001 the Windsors had DI/DO inverters upt ot somewhere around 2005. Then in 2006, the Windsors went back to SI/SO, the same as Camelots. The Inverter Subpanel technically was not (is not) contingent on Dual Output Inverters. I believe it was done as Monaco incorporated upgrades. You certainly could (and I have redesigned coaches that do) have an Inverter Subpanel with only a Single Output Inverter. The subpanel GFCI(s) - for only those circuits that required CFCI - are indeed GFCI BREAKERS, not Outlets. Regarding your recommendation of Split-Lugs. NEC allows use for a maximum of TWO wires. AWG 10 is normally connected with the appropriate sized (red winged) Wire Nut which will accommodate up to three AWG 10 conductors. I personally recommend and all my designs suggest a smaller (typically 4 Circuit Breaker) sized breaker box. I have the box at the output of the inverter and remove the "Outlet String" romex from the associated Inverter Output. I insert a new piece of AWG 10 from that Inverter Output into the input of the newly added breaker box. I put two 20 Amp breakers in the box (I use a 4-breaker box so I have more room for wiring-personal preference, not requirement) connected to the Romex from the inverter. I then wire the previously connected "Outlet String" to one of the 20 Amp breakers. If you carefully choose where you put this new breaker box (some might call a mini Inverter Subpanel) you won't have to splice - the "Outlet String" would reach. Then I wire the new circuit (in this case, the Bedroom Outlets) to the other 20 Amp breaker. I leave the Microwave circuit alone. The inverter doesn't care how many breakers or outlets you add - or how you name them. It only cares that you not exceed the 30 Amp output circuit breaker rating. Therefore, using the microwave output to supply the new circuit isn't necessary. Again, I stress that the OWNER will be responsible for proper Energy Management of the Inverter (same is he is now). If you add too much at the same time, something is going to trip a breaker. The only re-routing of wiring in this case is from the new circuit to the 20 Amp breaker in the new subpanel. You don't have to rewire the microwave circuit. You may not even have to get into the Main Power Panel (other than to disable the bedroom circuit as it will be abandoned). All that is necessary is to find the existing bedroom outlet circuit in question, and possibly put a Junction Box to tie that circuit to a new run of romex. That last sentence is the majority of the effort, and different for every coach model and year. From my experience, and from the experiences of others I have talked to who have actually re-wired their coach so based on empirical data, not theoretical suppositions, most all the wiring in the coach itself (not to include chassis wiring) is in the roof. Typically this is within 6 inches of the side (so be careful if you are drilling in this area). It then runs from the roof (ceiling) either down the wall to where it needs to go, or across the ceiling to where it needs to go. EXCEPTION: If the outlet or switch or whatever is contained within a slide room, it is wired from the basement, under the slide and up through the floor of the slide, then across the floor (under the cabinets) to where it's needed and then up the wall. I have never seen or heard of a slide room where the electrical wiring is run from the top or the sides into the slide room. So, in the OPs case, are the outlets you wish to connect in a slide or are they in a fixed wall/cabinet in the bedroom. That will be the clue as to how the wires were originally run. If through the ceiling, many have opted to intercept them at the main power panel. They have added new Romex or conduit, their preference, to the Power panel, and connected the wires removed from the breaker to the new romex inside the main power panel. Then they typically run the conduit down, through the floor and ultimately over to the new Inverter subpanel. Most of my efforts have been in the design phase, and I have worked with owners who know electrical and mechanical systems, and they perform the actual running and connecting of the wires, based on their coach. -Rick N.

Is is a page from the 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams that show how Monaco intended it to be wired - no guarantee it was actually wired this way, but certainly a good starting point. 2006 Diplomat AC Wiring.pdf

The likely reason you damaged you electric blanket is the MSW inverter output didn't play well with the elections in the thermostat control. - Rick N

Theorically there is nothing wrong with this, other than it might make the coach less sellable. Practically, it seems it would be a daunting process to rewire. From your description, I'm guessing your coach doesn't have an Inverter Sub-panel. This means you solo have to fish the wires from the inverter, oops, first you need to install a Junction Box to add more wire to the microwave wires, then fish them back to the main power panel. Then another Junction Box to extend the bedroom outlets so they can be fished up to the inverter. - Rick N

Slight correction. The Aquahot does have to be on, and heating, but it doesn't necessarily need to be on diesel. Depending on the temperature, and the Aquahot, the electric element(s) may be enough. Also, the thermostat pictured is the corresponding thermostat, and controls the Zone (usually Zone 2), no matter how the inside thermostats are set. At least on my Aquahot 600D. Even if the Aquahot is turned OFF, when that basement thermostat gets below the set point, it will tell the Aquahot to start up the zone pump and turn on the corresponding cozy fan. I found this when working on something in the bay next to the Aquahot, and heard the fan running. I have confirmed this operation with Aquahot (again, at least for my 600D, although the tech didn't seem to differentiate models). Since I often leave my coach stored in cold Colorado weather, I have installed a switch inline with that thermostat so it won't signal the Aquahot. Just have to remember to flip it when you do want basement heat. -Rick N.

I removed the old transfer switch, mounted the new transfer switch in its place, and then mounted the old transfer switch where the output wires that connect to the main breakers (main power panel) could reach. Then made jumpers from the new transfer switch output to the old transfer switch, and then bypassed the contactors in the old transfer switch so that they were always connected to the the input (shore power) and were never disconnected. Then used the electronics to feed the Aladdin as it had previously. Of course, all this depends upon having room to mount both transfer switches. -Rick N.

I looked it up, but it is not clear how the hose connecter will both fit inside 4" and at the same time fit over the existing dump valve. Do they have an adapter that fits on the dump valves to reduce it to a smaller connector on the hose?

Note that the connectors are larger, and while the hose may fit, the connectors on each end won't. Before the macerater, I had to remove one end to store. - Rick N

My Wiring Diagram Documents only go back to 1996, I owned a 1997 Dynasty, so I know what I speak. I am attaching 1996 and 1998 Dynasty 110 VAC Wiring Distribution Diagrams clearly showing the Block Heater on the Inverter. I can't answer why - only state the facts. If you want the actual wiring circuitry as to how this was accomplished, blow up the circuit I have circled in the 1996 drawing. Back then, the Shore Power (Generator) did NOT go through the inverter, and it didn't have an internal transfer switch like you are thinking of. The Shore Power was relay switched between the Inverter and Shore in a separate device (the one I mentioned above. By 2002, the Dynasty and above had gone to the circuitry you are thinking about, with a enable switch on the dash, an not powered by the inverter. I don't have 2001 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams so I can't say when the changed occurred other than it was in either 2000 or 2001. Your math is correct regarding the amount of pass-through current, IF the shore power went through the inverter - I didn't as explained above. Therefore, the full 50 Amps was available, times 2 since it's a 220 device. When the inverter is power those outlets that it's connected to, if it was a 2000 Watt inverter (I think mine was 2500, but not sure) you would be limited to 2000 Watts, which indeed is 16.7 volts if output is 120 VAC. Not sure that matters in this conversation. Now, the 90 Amps is at 12.5 VDC which is 1125 Watts. In fact, a 2000 Watt Inverter could draw 160 Amps at maximum load. I think (but am not sure, and I don't have that coach anymore) the inverter 12 VDC input was fused at 200 Amps, but that doesn't have anything to do with inverter capability. Now the Battery Charger capability has nothing to do with the inverter capability. Yes, you are correct that a 2000 Watt Inverter's Battery Charging capability may be 100 Amps at max charging. But, again, those are two distinctly separate devices in one box we conventionally call the inverter. But neither depends upon the other. In fact, my 3000 Watt Victron only has 125 or 150 Amp battery charger. If charger were a factor in Inverter capacity, that would mean it had less than 2000 Watts (150 x 12.5 = 1875 Watts). Your are correct that "today" all Monaco coaches' Block Heaters are only on Shore or Gen power. But that wasn't the case for Monaco "Legacy" coaches.

Good show. I have not looked up the 40100, but the big difference between the 40250 and others is not just the current (the donuts you described) and voltage, but that this data needs to be put on a serial buss that the Aladdin can access. I have a different setup, with all the monitoring components in a separate box, that goes to what Aladdin calls the ACI (AC Interface). I believe, but am not sure, that interface is mounted on the circuit card. Another option would have been to install the new transfer switch, feeding the existing transfer switch, but the transfer function bypassed such that the input was hardwired to the output, and use the old transfer switch just for monitoring purposes. This might be easier for less skilled owners or tech to accomplish. Of course, this would require real estate (space) nearby for the new transfer switch, and likely additional 6 gauge wires to interconnect, and those are not easy to manipulate. -Rick N.

I agree with Ivan, you either have a huge draw on the inverter, or the house batteries are bad and can't hold a charge, even though they seem to be taking one. The battery charger is doing what I would expect given the voltages your posted. You might go so far, if you are comfortable, of disconnect the AC OUTPUT of the inverter. Then turn on the inverter and see if it behaves the same, or if it stays at 12.5 or so for a while. If it does, then you know you have a problem in what is connected to the inverter. You have something drawing huge loads, or possibly shorted wires. I had a similar, but not as severe, situation when I got my first Monaco Dynasty. I never used the inverter because it would peg the current out at about 100 Amps (based on light status). Luckily another Monacoer was at the Quartzsite Monaco camp, and had the same unit. In 1997 Dynasty, every out was on the inverter. Including the block heater, which didn't have a switch back then. You turned it on by plugging it in. Well, this was in January, and I had the block heater plugged in before I left Colorado. It didn't dawn on me that it would run off batteries (via the inverter), but Jim realized the problem right away. So, you might have something you don't remember or realize is being powered by the inverter. Good luck. -Rick N.

I went to my normal trusted review sites, and none have reviewed Goldenmate. I looked at other reviews, but few were "technical". A couple things I found, is that it has a lower capability BMS. For example, it can only be charged at 50 Amps, Maximum. That not a real problem. But there are conflicting reports on temperature shutdown. Some say it has a temp sensor, but it seems (I can't verify) that it may only work on high temps. Being from Colorado, when I built my batteries, I made sure the BMS I selected had full cold temp sensing and shutdown, both on charging and discharging. If you never, ever expect the battery to be exposed to below 32°F (0°C) then this may not be a concern. Note that low temperature can actually destroy LiFePO4 batteries (no, they don't explode, they just quit working). It's rated at Max discharge rate of 100 Amps, which yields a max power of 1250 Watts. Some reviewer were pleased that they were able to draw as much as 150 Amps out of the battery, but, to me, that just shows the BMS has failed to shut it down on Over Current discharge - not good. Makes me wonder if the other parameters are actually protected by this battery. One of the main deficiencies of this battery is there is no way to "see" what is going on within the battery box. Remember, a battery is simply a collection of individual cells, interconnects, and a controller we call a BMS (Battery Management System). Higher end batteries also incorporate a USB or Bluetooth or both, connection which allows you to view the actual cells, how they are balanced, the actual current, the depth of discharge, etc. This is often built into the BMS circuit board. In some cases, you can actually program parameters of the cells and control limits via this connection (although I've never seen a commercially produced battery that allows the user to make any changes). If you are the type that like to monitor your systems, this is a big deal. On the other hand, if you don't care about how things work, just that they do, then this might not be a deal breaker. I think you'll find you'll need two of these, connected in parallel, to provide enough to run your inverter at nominal load. I'm not talking how long, but that 1250 watts out of the battery is more like 1100 watts out of the inverter after all the losses and inefficiencies (educated guess) are accounted for. This will not run your microwave, even though most don't suggest running the microwave off the inverter. My point is if you have a 2500 - 3000 Watt Inverter, or even just a 2000 Watt, you'll want batteries that will allow it to operate at it's rated output, even if you never intend to use it a full power. When researching this, I was amazed to find so many lower priced LiFePO4 batteries. There were several on Amazon for just under $200 (100 A-Hr). One of these is almost the same as 4 Trojan T-105 6-volt batteries, which yield a rated 225 A-Hr at 12 Volts, but you can only use about one-half that if you want maximum life (112.5 A-Hr). As of today, the best price on T-105 (some consider the "gold standard" of Flooded Lead Acid batteries) is $151.49. So four would be $605.06 or $2.69 per usable Amp Hourr. As of today the Goldenmate is $228.99 on Amazon. So two of these would be $457.98 or $2.29 per usable Amp Hour. While the weigh difference is not important to us, since the coach has already been designed and built to handle the FLA batteries, and dropping 50% of the battery weight is negligible compared to the total weight of the coach, there are a couple other considerations. First, even if this low-priced LiFePO4 doesn't last it's rated 8,000 life cycles, it will likely last longer then FLA batteries. But I can guarantee that it will charge much faster. This feature alone makes LiFePO4 batteries the choice for dry-camping (boondocking). Your generator run time will be cut in less than one-half due to the fast charging that LiFePO4 batteries can accept that would boil and destroy FLA unless carefully monitored. It also allows for faster charging from solar too. This is because they can take full rated charge (or the max charge you have available) right up to 99% (SOC). The FLA, AGM, and such stop full current and taper off over many hours to max. I can't say these Goldenmate are any better or worse than others in the $200 - $250 price range, but, from the limited reviews I've found, I'd certainly say there were likely worth the price. -Rick N. Personally, I am a convert, a believer that LiFePO4 should be considered by all, no matter if you are a boondocker or simply travel "power post to power post". But there are a couple caveats. First, you need to check that your current inverter/charger can be set to charge LiFePO4 batteries. If it can't, that need serious consideration. Also, you need to be aware that it is inadvisable to charge LiFePO4 from engine alternators. It can accept charging current so high that it can burn out an alternator. So, often a DC-DC charger is needed. Also, the charging parameters set for LiFePO4 batteries is not ideal for charging the chassis battery. So, you need to make changes there too. But, as I mentioned above, if you current inverter/charger can be set to charge LiFePO4 batteries (or close, as AGM2 in the Magnum is very close). Also, CC/CV (Constant Current/Constant Voltage) is what LiFePO4 batteries need (the LiFePO4 setting is just a custom setting of CC/CV) so if your inverter has CC/CV, you are good to go. Given this, and the fact that LiFePO4 batteries can be less expensive than FLA or AGM, that is no longer a valid argument against LiFePO4. As an aside, I mention LiFePO4 which is the designation (and chemical formula) for Lithium Lead Phosphate which is totally different from LI (Lithium Ion) batteries, which are the ones you have read about exploding or catching fire (cell phone, laptop and Tesla). LiFePO4 are very safe and won't explode even in a crash. -Rick N.

There would be no smoke or other ill effects if the four 12 volt batteries were connected in parallel. Nooooo. If connected four 100 A-Hr AGM (or any other chemistry batteries) in SERIES, you would still end up with 100 A-Hrs, but it would be 48 VOLTS!! Now you really would see the smoke Myron mentioned in his post. Clearly, the batteries are NOT connected in Series. Now, if you connected the four 100 A-Hr batteries in PARALLEL, you would still have the 12 Volts, but since each battery is contributing 100 A-Hrs to the total "system", you would have 400 A-Hrs. I have seen this done, but it is rare. In fact, back in college, we were taught that it was a poor design to install batteries in parallel, since the internal resistance of each battery varies (maybe more 50 years ago) and one battery would discharge to the level of the poorest battery. Series does not have this problem. Of course, that assumed we could spec a battery with the required current and voltage requirements need for the design, and didn't have to "make do" with what was available "off the shelf" meaning not custom designed. In any case, as long as the batteries were connected in any combination that yields 12 volts, no smoke. Regarding the Maximum output of a battery charger (Magnum or otherwise) that is the Maximum Current that the Battery Charger can deliver. The batteries can't suck or draw more current (combined with other DC loads) that that maximum. So, if I have 50,000 A-Hr batteries that need charging, it will not hurt the charger, it just may take over a year, assuming no further discharge. Nothing is hurt or damaged. Now, that is not true if we are speaking voltage. It must be the proper voltage for the system. If readers think it necessary for more details of Circuits 101, I think it best to start another post. -Rick N.

I apologize, but dinner is ready, and I only read your original post. But if your inverter says "inverting" then it is not seeing 110 VAC on its input. Since you say it works while on generator, but not shore power, it appears that the leg of the 220 that the inverter is on is bad. That can be anywhere from the power pedestal to the transfer switch. Easiest to check that you have 220 VAC at the main power panel 50 Amp circuit breaker, and go from there. I'll try and get to all the other responses after dinner and see where you are sorting this out. -Rick N.

Seems like that is a silly response from them. If you brought the air bags back up, you would likely no longer be supported by the jacks. It would totally defeat the purpose of leveling. -Rick

This reminded me I could just use one of my Scuba Tanks. They hold between 3000 - 4200 PSI. I know some plumbers (who are also Scuba divers) that use these tank to run their air tools. -Rick N.

Tom, he does have a BIRD, if you can trust the 2008 Knight Owners Manual, Page 173. -Rick N.

I just downloaded and reviewed your manual. You don't specifically ask, but you MUST extend/retract the slide-out room(s) (slides) with the jacks retracted and the motorhome supported by the air suspension (air bags). Do not operate with the air bags deflated. So, the first step would be to find a level spot to park, engage the parking brake, do a walk-around to make sure that the slides will not hit anything and that the utilities are okay. Some people hook up their utilities next, but that can be done at any time - the order of connecting utilities is not an issue. After the walk-around, make sure the engine is off, parking brake engaged, maybe open a window so extending the slides does not create a vacuum, remove any slide locks, and then extend the slides (taken from page 104 of the 2009 Knight Owners Manual). The leveling procedure is different from other Monaco's. It requires the Ignition switch ON and the engine running, transmission in Neutral, and Park brake applied. Lower the air suspension by stepping on the brake several times to get the air pressure below 60 PSI. With the ignition on, push and hold the AIr Dump switch to lower the Air Suspension. Then follow the procedure begining on page 219 of the Owners Manual to either Automatically Level or Manual Level the coach. To retract, Park Brake ON, Trans in Neutral, Engine Running, turn on Control Pad, Push RETRACT ALL JACKS button, allow all jacks to return to full retract, purs the ON/OFF button on the control pad to turn the leveling system Off. Then allow the coach to build up air pressure, to full ride height (allow to build to 120 PSI to ensure suspension if at ride height). Then make sure the ignition is OFF, Park Brake still set, Jacks fully retracted, and coach full supported by air suspension (air bags). Then retract the slides and install Slide Locks, if applicable. You will not bring the air pressure back up to 120 PSI until you have retracted the jacks. Hope this answers your question. -Rick N.

I have used something similar for my Jeep tires (32") but they only require about 35 PSI (less when off-roading). It will take a couple minutes, I didn't time it, to go from 25 PSI to 35PSI on those jeep tires, which have less volume, and far less pressure than your coach tires (if that's what you are looking to use it for). It will be interesting to see if you can take a coach tire from say, 70 PSI up to 110 PSI on a single battery charge, and how long it will take. I gave up on my Viair, and bought a 110 VAC compressor with small pancake tank because I didn't want to wait 30 minutes to fill my tires. -Rick N.

Tom, this is an interesting conversation, but I don't think the OP was asking how batteries are work, or even considered replacing them. But I must address a couple things that could be misleading or superseded by technology. First, all the charts and voltage to SOC graphs were developed in the lab using what was considered sophisticated equipment. That equipment is now available to all of us at a very reasonable price. Since we all didn't have common place Battery Monitors 20 -25 years ago, the manufacturers ran test and noted the voltage when the SOC was at different values. The voltage does not determine the SOC. Indeed, voltage has absolutely nothing to do with the SOC of a battery. But everyone wanted to know "how much battery power" they had. Since voltmeters were common, the manufactures generated graphs and charts that interpolated SOC to voltage, for a specific battery. The only reason you need to consider voltage in SOC is that is used to determine Battery Capacity. You have partially described that process of discharging at a fixed known rate (Amps) until the battery reaches the voltage the manufacturer defines as "fully discharged". By maintaining that constant current, over the whole discharge time (not easy as many load are resistive, and as the voltage decreases during discharge, so does the current (E=IR) so some means need to be incorporated to ensure the current remains the same over the full discharge cycle. Then, you simply multiply the the discharge current rate (in Amps) time the time it took to reach the manufacturers defined voltage (in Hours) and you have the battery capacity (in Amp-Hours). But this is not normally necessary. Most of us can accept the manufacturers stated capacity instead. After you know the Battery Capacity, you never need to look at voltage again. State of Charge (SOC) is a measure of how many electrons are still available based on how many a fully battery has. So, you measure the electron flow out of the battery (Amps is a measure of electron flow over time). If you had 100 electrons (for illustrative purposes only) and 50 of them were drawn out of the battery, you have 50% capacity left or the SOC is 50% It makes no difference if the battery we are talking about is 6 volt, 12 volt, or 48 volt. Granted the voltages at 50% will be different than at 100%, but what we really care about is how much capacity is left (SOC) or how much capacity we have used (DOD - Depth Of Discharge). Since the instrumentation to measure the flow of electrons out (and back into under charging) is readily available, there is no need to worry about voltage or the accuracy of the Inverter voltmeter (in so far as using voltage to determine remaining battery capacity. So, we can basically forget about voltage and calibration and accuracy of the voltmeter for purposes of determining SOC. The electron flow is usually measured by a Shunt installed in the negative battery terminal such that all current for that battery bank must flow through it, and electronic circuitry to take the measurement from the shunt, and apply algorithms (math functions) to it using the user inputed Battery Capacity and provides the SOC value. This is often displayed on a readout, but more recently may not include the readout, and send the info via Bluetooth to a phone or tablet for display. Ok, now on to AGS (Auto Gen Start). I think I understand what you are trying to relate, in simple terms the battery voltage of a battery under load is lower that the voltage would be if that battery were not under a load. The difference depends on a lot of things, but primarily the amount of load and the Battery Capacity. Obviously, the higher the load, the more it will drag down the instantaneous battery voltage. But the Battery Capacity also plays into this too. If I have twice the battery capacity, the amount the voltage will drop under the same load is less (not necessarily exactly one-half though). So, what you are proposing, is what Magnum talks about in their remote manual for setting the AGS, is to use a slightly lower voltage than what voltage has been extrapolated to relate to 50% SOC. This discussion applies to Lead Acid (FLA, AGM, etc.), NOT Lithium. Since it is an industry accepted practice to limit discharge of lead acid batteries to no more than 50% SOC. Ideally, we would use SOC (as Victron and many newer technology devices allow), since we wouldn't have to worry about this pesky voltage scenario, but most Magnum Inverters, even though they can display SOC, don't allow for that to be used in AGS. The term RECOVERY, as defined by Lifeline (I can find no reference to that term being used by Trojan) refers to deeply discharged (less than 1.93 volts/cell or 11.6 volts for a 12 volt battery). They define a special procedure to recharge these batteries in hopes of rejuvenating them. I think it best that "Recovery" be eliminated from discussions because its use is confusing. Victron's Specification for State of Charge (SOC) is =/- 0.1% over the 0 - 100% range. Voltage is =+-0.01V over 0 - 100Volts, Current +/- 0.01 (0 - 10A), +/- 0.1A )10 - 500A) and +/- 1.0A (500 - 9999A). Much more accurate than we need for our purposes. But remember, this equipment is designed for commercial (small towns in remote areas use Victron equipment with solar farm for the their sole power). Tom, you are wrong in your characterization of Lambert or Amp-L-Start and similar types of maintainers as THIEVES. This is simply not true. Yes, they take voltage from one battery bank to maintain another battery bank, but ONLY when a battery bank is being charged. The only connect the two banks together when the voltage of the "doner" bank is above 13.5 volts, and disconnect when the voltage drops to 12.8 volts. (These are spec's from one device, so the actual voltages may differ slightly). So, there is no possibility of the device allowing the "doner" battery to discharge. There are great devices, and I highly recommend them for those who use solar. For people who use mostly solar to charge their batteries, most connect it only to the house batteries. Under these conditions, the chassis batteries would never get charged (assuming the generator is not used). But with these types of maintainers, once the house batteries are charged (above 13.5 volts - typically Float Voltage) they engage and begin "stealing" the excess charge from the solar panel to maintain the chassis batteries. I'm not being argumentative, but trying to be informative, and reduce "wives tales". -Rick N. I did the same on my 1997 Dynasty.

That solenoid is used both ways. If it is bad charging the chassis batteries when on ShorePower, it is also bad charging the House batteries when running the main engine alternator. You can tell if it is engaged because it will be hot to the touch. If engaged, you should not have more than 0.2 Volts difference between the two main lugs. -Rick N

Easy way to find out. Turn off the Chassis Battery Disconnect Switch and try to start the generator. If it starts, it's starting off the House bank. If it doesn't start, turn on the Chassis Battery Disconnect Switch and turn Off the House Battery Disconnect Switch. If it start, it's starting off the Chassis bank. If it still doesn't start, you have a problem. It is relatively easy on many Monaco coaches to switch the generator to start off the other set of batteries. Both Chassis and House Battery circuits have large cables running to the FRB (Front Run Bay). The generator cable also connects to one of those circuits in the FRB. Simply remove from one and connect to the other. -Rick N. If you have LiFePO4 House batteries, I do NOT recommend trying to Boost to start the main engine. If you are boosting from the Chassis batteries to start the generator connected to the House batteries, it is less of a concern, if think. I have disabled my BIRD since I don't want either system connecting to the other. -Rick N. You can do a "dry run" in your driveway, during the day. Yes, there will be slightly more lights used in the evening, but then slightly less after you retire, with the possible exception of the furnace. -Rick N.