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I rebuilt our hydraulic pump as the seal in the front of the pump was leaking hydraulic fluid across into the transmission fluid. This is on a 2004 Signature as well. I replaced the small hoses on the pump drive assembly as they were leaking. I used a new gasket and some Ultragrey gasket sealer reinstalling the pump. I also changed the hydraulic fluid and filter. All is working well now. If you are concerned, maybe think about rebuilding the pump but as others have said these hydraulic motors are designed to run hundreds of hours. The most difficult part of this is draining 50-55 qts of hydraulic oil and loosening the large hydraulic hoses. The Detroit 60 should use a wax valve mechanical hydraulic fan controller so you should be good there. The Cummins engines use a Sauer Danfoss electric controller that fails frequently. Most of us end up converting to the mechanical wax valve controller.

We've owned two ISX coaches and they were both tough to crank over. I installed two of the larger 1125CCA NAPA group 31 batteries and it was still tough. I then read about the new gear reduction ISX starter and installed one. That was the best thing ever. It now cranks over faster and starts easier. However, you need to double check all your battery cable connections and make sure they are clean. Hope this helps!

I installed a new MSH3012 hybrid inverter. I wanted a pure sine inverter and I found a great price on the MSH3012, so it looked like the best option. I do like the hybrid design as I can switch from shore power to generator and back without my computer (or anything else) going offline. I can also use a small Honda generator instead of the large 12,500 Onan and the hybrid inverter helps out when the AC systems start up. Usually you look at your battery bank to decide what size inverter is right. You can do a search on idle current draw, but they are pretty similar. One caution on the MSH3012 hybrid is that it uses a single 50-60 amp supply wire where your ME-2012 uses two separate 20 amp legs. The MS2812 will also use two separate legs of 30 amps each. If you decide on the MSH3012, send me a message and I can send you a detailed how to.

Be careful with your A/C update. The thermostat version must match the A/C version. Or, you can install retrofit control boards. A 99 motorhome came with the old 4 button thermostat and is not compatible with any A/C units manufactured since 2002. After 2002 Dometic went to the 5 button Comfort Control thermostat. Dometic now makes the Comfort Control Center 2, a 10 button programmable thermostat for their new A/C units. You could try soldering in a charge port and recharge your old units. Many will say this is a questionable procedure but it may get you by. Or, if you watch the sales you can find new units for around $500.

You have a choice (sort of). The AC control board version must match the thermostat version. If you install only one new A/C unit, then you can install a retrofit control board in the new A/C unit and still use your older 5 button Comfort Control thermostat to control both the new and the old A/C. If you decide to replace both A/C units, then instead of purchasing two retrofit control boards for your older thermostat, you can just install the newer CC2 programmable thermostat. The new CC2 thermostat is not compatible with your old A/C unit and will only work with the new design A/C or heat pump from Dometic. Replacing A/C units is fairly easy once you get it onto the roof. They weigh about 100#. I used a long ladder and a rope to drag it up onto the roof (still in the protective shipping box). It is held on by 4 bolts accessed from inside. All the wiring is also accessed from inside. You will need to set the control board dip switches according to the instructions and it's a good idea to install a new foam gasket. Below are pictures of the A/C unit on the ladder. It takes two to drag it up. Next is the retrofit control board. Install this on the ground. Last is a picture of our new 15,000btu A/C. Hope this helps.

I had to replace both our slide lock assemblies because they had been neglected. One had a broken cable and the other was locked up with the bottom lever cut off (courtesy of CW). You can remove the black plastic cover (drill out rivets) to lube them and reinstall using new black plastic push in rivets. If you purchase the rivets from Monaco/Rev Group they are very expensive. I found a large package of the rivets on Granger for 1/10 the cost. The slide locks were originally built by Dewald Manufacturing. The purpose of the slide lock is to prevent the slide from extending while driving. It's interesting that Monaco only installed them on the drivers side front main slide out. Below you see a picture of a broken cable and where the cable is brazed into the bottom lever. Next is a picture of a new slide lock with the black cover off. Last is a picture of the new slide lock set. Yes, they are expensive, so you want to take care of them. Also attached is an original drawing from DeWald. You can see the cable runs the full length of the lock assembly with springs in the middle and rollers in several places. The best lube I've found for these is CRC Spray lube with Teflon (green can). Hope this helps! Slide Lock breakdown 2.pdf