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When I was searching for solar panels, I calculated the number of watts per square inch for various panels. The reason is we are limited in space and need to utilize it wisely. Also, it's difficult to fit the new very large panels down the side of air conditioners.

It needs to be checked by a qualified Dometic repair technician. You probably should file a warranty claim as soon as possible.

Yes, this is a common issue with the Sheppard steering box. Many have swapped the Sheppard non-adjustable for a much tighter adjustable TRW steering box. Lots to read here: Steering Box Play- Sheppard M100 SHIM or Swap for a TRW ? - iRV2 Forums

Mine was caused by a loose wire on the transmission. I crimped it tighter and installed some zip ties to secure the wire and it seems to have cured it. The sending unit is on the back of the trans which in our coaches is the towards the front.

That's unfortunate. Many of us have it. Some more than others. It's called heat checking. It's caused by the fiberglass outgassing and forming hairline cracks. It's common in 2002 -2007 motorhomes from almost all manufacturers. It's more prevalent in darker colors. You must have an early 2008 model that has the earlier fiberglass. Some coach manufacturers replaced the sidewall fiberglass for the original owners. Approximate cost was $40k+. This is the only sure way of preventing it from returning. Mike's Custom Painting has a repaint process that will reduce the chance of it returning, but I don't think anyone will guarantee it. It helps to use light colors, store it indoors and not to live in the desert southwest. You can see the extensive prep work in post # 541 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-39.html In post # 552 he discusses the method to prevent the checking from reoccurring: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-40.html If you continue through the thread you can see the finished results. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-41.html Paint was done by- Mike's Custom Painting in Bremen, IN

We live in Tucson and I've never had good luck with 8D batteries. The heat kills them. Two years max. I converted the 8D start battery to two Group 31 12V batteries in parallel. They last much longer and are a lot easier to handle.

Frank is correct. We have two Engine Heat rocker switches next to the driver. One is Block Heat which turns the 110V block heater outlet on. The other is Engine Heat which turns on the pump to circulate Aqua Hot water through the block to warm it.

The gas shutoff valve is from Home Depot. The Plumber's Choice Premium Brass Gas Ball Valve, with 3/4 in. FIP Connections-256522T - The Home Depot The quick disconnect is from a local Tucson hydraulic hose company. The hose is crimped onto the fittings. They also made the male quick disconnect end hose that I connect to the grill. You need to make sure the hose is rated for propane high pressure.

Picture of the cutoff valve and the quick disconnect. I routed the new propane hose above the propane tank across to the passenger side and then rearward into the next compartment where we store the grill.

I installed a brass T on the regulator input side and then added a Mr. Heater 15' high pressure (600psi) propane hose. I routed it to the passenger side with a cut off valve and quick disconnect. The 15' hose is #F271470 from Amazon. I can now connect either our BBQ grill or Blackstone griddle to the quick disconnect and use propane from the onboard tank.

Try to avoid Bio Diesel when you can. You will get less fuel mileage and it's pretty nasty stuff.

I replaced ours as the levers had been cut off at the bottom. I purchased a new set at Veurinks RV Parts. They are expensive! If you can clean and lube yours to save them, you will save a lot of money. This is a link to the post: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/slide-out-lock-help-416803.html See post #11 for replacement black plastic rivets. I should add that I've driven 3000+ miles without operational locks and not had an issue.

Have you converted it to Allison Transynd synthetic fluid? Have you checked the fluid level?

First you need to check and clean the battery terminals. How many batteries do you have and how old are they? Is it cloudy on the coast?

I agree with Jim. Monaco manufactured most of their own parts back then. You'll be hard pressed to find another tank to fit. I'd repair the current tank.

The first one is a 9-10. The second one is a 6-7. By the time you get to the third one its a 4. It really helps if you make some 2 x 12 boards to raise the coach. Some folks also use a piece of steel between the H frame and main frame rail to support the coach.

I replaced our kitchen flexible drain hose also. I found a replacement hose and fittings at a large hose supply house. I also had to repair the trolley that the hose hangs on so that it would run smooth. The difficult part is getting in there. I was able to remove a panel under the cooktop adjacent to this area and access it that way. When done, it's important to zip tie it all properly so it will slide in and out smoothly.

This happened to us. I removed the propane hose going into the regulator and both the hose and the regulator were full of oil. Had to replace the regulator.

From the owners manual: Engine Heat Exchange System: When traveling, the water pump on the engine circulates heated engine coolant through the Aqua-Hot. Through convection, heat transfers to the Aqua-Hot coolant, providing hot water and interior heating. Use the Comfort Control to operate the heat exchangers. To Use the System: • Turn on the interior house power. • Set the Comfort Controls to Furnace. • Select the desired Zone and Temperature. Also, ours has a rocker switch next to the driver that must be turned on. You can download a soft copy of your owners manual for performing quick searches. The 2000 is not listed but a 2001 manual will work fine. Monaco RV Owners Manuals (monacocoach.com)

You need a heavy diesel code reader to check the ECU codes. Usually when the light comes on going up hills its an EGR system code.

Yes, mine uses the came coil assembly. I just looked and they are out. I guess Covid has caused lots of shortages. The part number for the solenoid coil harness is 3310714.005. Note that the valve itself is not replaceable, only the solenoid harness.

When you say older what year is it? I ask because I purchased a new reversing valve for our 2004 Dometic Penguin heat pump on eBay.

Welcome. Wow, what a great coach. What engine do you have?

Wow, that certainly is unique! All that space would be great to put the kids on one end. I'd like to see a walk through with all those slide outs in. No inverter!! And those steps are a bit ugly. Two gray tanks to drain?? I'm not so sure I could live with it.

Thanks Van. I'll do that.