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Brett, I assume by HH you mean the Aqua-Hot heating system? Are you running it on diesel, or pure electric? Also, do you have the front thermostat zone mode set to Furnace? I have not seen doors or covers on the Aqua-Hot vents that require vacuum. They should blow hot air regardless of the settings on engine/dash heating system. I would check the blower fan and also the recirculation pump for that zone. Many times they will stick. You can usually tap on the recirculation pump and get it to start pumping. You will need to remove the stainless cover over the Aqua-Hot burner assembly to access the pumps. While you are in there check for 12v power to the pump also.

Take a look at post #5. Paul has replaced the original side cameras with new color cameras. SL Glass Dash - iRV2 Forums

All of these air ride coaches (and trucks) have air leaks. Over the years the air leaks get worse as dirt and corrosion takes its toll. Your air ride height valves may or may not be bad, but you cannot tell unless the air system is fully pressurized and the coach is in the travel mode. Leaning after sitting for a week is actually pretty good. It takes lots of hours of dedicated work to make a coach completely leak free. It's like searching for the Holly Grail. I doubt you will find a shop that will go to this extent or expense to repair your air ride system. If it pumps up fairly fast and stays pumped up at least overnight you are doing great. Enjoy your coach.

Bill is correct. the early Essex remotes are no longer available. I purchased a new Remocon RMC-105 universal remote fob from:https://www.cruisingforremotes.com/They preset the frequency (on the back of the old remote) and I programmed it to my original RF receiver. It locks, unlocks, and also lights the entry lights.

Instead of adding another one of the old 100w panels I installed three of these: 200+25% Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel Off Grid RV Boat highest power 12V you can buy | eBay I also purchased a solar wiring kit and a new junction box for the roof. For now I've left the original Heliotrope RV-45D charge controller. In the future I would like to update it.

I also purchased and installed one of Paul's control boards for our Sealand toilet. It works great!

Check the grounds. If necessary fabricate a new ground wire.

A 2002 model should have a Freedom Trace inverter/charger. Download the manual and make sure all the settings are correct. Then just keep an eye on the voltage and water levels.

I've added three 225w solar panels so our Heliotrope charge controller was boiling the water out of the batteries. I tried to change the jumper pins from EQ to Float but just couldn't find the pins while the charge controller was attached to the basement ceiling. I unscrewed the charge controller from the ceiling and let it hang from the wiring so I could get a good look at it. I then found the pins and relocated the jumper.

I replaced the rear shocks on our coach with Bilstein Comfort Drive shocks from Amazon. They were $80.20 each and take about 10-20 min per shock to change. They are part number 24-187321. Our coach also uses the same Bilstein shock part number all around. Bilstein provides a small package with a steel bushing kit for the different applications. Koni uses two different part numbers: 8805 1004 front, and 8805 1005 for the rear for our S series chassis. Koni shocks are double the price of Bilstein but some owners are saying they work well on the front.

I bought new seats from Villa International. They manufacture motor home furniture for most of the diesel motor homes. villainternational.com

Dimensions for the Sharp R-1870 Width: 29 15/16 Inch Depth: 15 9/32 Inch Height: 16 11/32 Inch Also, the Sharp gets a 4.4 out of 5 rating on AJ Madison.

Great idea. I've thought about removing the large propane tank and installing a smaller horizontal tank. I also use it for my BBQ grill.

Beautiful coach and trailer! The early Aqua Hot systems only have a single element electric heater. It is 1650 watts and produces about 5000 btu of heat. If the incoming water is fairly warm, it works well for a short duration of hot water. However, if the incoming water is very cold, it is not sufficient. It will not heat the interior of the coach when the temperature is low. The diesel burner is 50,000 btu. It will produce sufficient heat for heating the inside of the coach, the basement, and even pre-heat the engine. It will also produce hot water regardless of the incoming water temperature. The newer Aqua Hot systems have dual electric heating elements and will function much better on electric only. However, if you are paying for electric the diesel burner is more efficient.

Does it still shutdown if you remove the Bluefire dongle? If so, you probably need to remove and clean the wire connectors.

If you have the one wire sensor, remove it and polish it with some scotch brite or steel wool. I used to keep two sensors, one polished and ready and the other in the tank. You will need to change them about every 6 months.

Thanks for sharing. That's a great price for a 15k heap pump unit. All RV air conditioners use the same 14 x 14" opening that a roof vent uses. The price on the thermostat looks good also. As long as it uses the same RJ11 phone cord. A potential issue is the thermostat can only handle 1 zone.

I assume you've verified the tank pressure is correct? Have you checked the tank sending unit? One of the talented Signature owners on IRV2 (Hypoxia) has been able to source dash instrument parts. He has a 2007 Sig, but the dash may be related. Another source would be one of the RV salvage yards. Best of luck!

Changing the airbags is not rocket science but can be a dirty job. Actually, an old division of Chrysler Corporation developed the Roadmaster Chassis for a heavy military vehicle. Monaco purchased the design from them. Most of us that have been around for a while actually think of Freightliner as a low-price poor-quality choice. The large corporations concerned with only the bottom line lease Freightliner trucks. Those that care purchase something with better quality. Like the others said, ride height is set by adjusting mechanical links, two on the rear and one on the front. No software required. In fact, if it was correct before the air bag change it may not require any adjustment.

Same on ours. It's a double outlet and one plug is inverter and the other is not. This is so you can run the Norcold ice maker on the inverter.

Wow, very nice coach. You should have an Intellitec Big Boy relay in the rear electrical run bay (next to the engine). Under the proper conditions it ties the two battery banks together (or it should when working correctly). These relays are notorious for going bad. They get a large amount of carbon buildup on the copper contacts. You can remove it and rebuild it (instructions below). Or, you can replace it. Expect it to stop working again in a few years. Big Boy Relay rebuild instructions.pdf

I found replacement Carling switches at Northwest RV Supply. If you don't find your switch listed give them a call. http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/170.html http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/177.html http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/172.html http://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/25-BASE.html

I agree the draw should go to less than 1, but even with a 3 amp draw your batteries should last much longer. Either the batteries are going bad or the draw is higher. I'd start looking at the Intellitec Big Boy isolation solenoid in the rear run bay. It connects your house to chassis batteries under certain conditions. They are notorious for going bad. Also, have you checked all the battery cables? Hope this helps.

Sure sounds like you are on the right track. I agree you are not getting +12v to portions of your system including the fuel shut off. Another thing to try is the Boost switch on you drivers side console. It ties the chassis and coach batteries (provided you Big Boy solenoid is working). I would start by testing the voltages on both sides of the Intellitec Big Boy isolator relay located in the rear run box. These are notorious for the electrodes getting carbon build up and then your chassis batteries will not charge while plugged in. If necessary, you can remove and disassemble it and clean the contacts (or replace it). Rebuild instructions attached. Then the next step is to charge the chassis batteries up to 13.8v (or replace them). If that doesn't get you back on track I would start looking for a bad relay or blown fuse. Best of luck! Big Boy Relay rebuild instructions.pdf

John's right. First check the 1-way valve. Then you'll find it's probably the sprayer. Clean the tank well first. You'll need to get access to the opposite side of the black tank, usually the passenger side. Most Monaco coaches have another access door on the passenger side of the tanks. It does not have the normal latch but has two releases underneath. Release these and open the door. The sprayer is usually attached with 2-3 screws and some sealant. Remove the screws and use a small drill bit to clean the holes out. Use some sealer and screw it back down. The only advantage to the Sanicon is you can pump uphill. It is easily removed if you decide you no longer need it. Then you can add a 90 degree adapter.