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We also have the BMW 5 series halo headlights. I replaced ours with new Hella light modules and I'm also very disappointed. The problem is Monaco just cuts off the locating tabs and mounts the light assemblies with aluminum straps screwed into the fiberglass. There is no proper way to locate the light assembly in the front cap. My high beams were actually crossing each other. These light assemblies have an internal aim adjustment, but it's just for fine tuning. I've played with them some and they are slightly better. I purchased and installed new HID bulbs and ballasts for the low beam. They are brighter but I still have the aiming problem. The best light modification I've gotten is by replacing the original Hella FF300 fog lights with Hella FF300 driving lights. They are easy to aim and very bright. Now the problem is they only work on low beam. Hella makes an LED driving light in this model, but they are very expensive. I'm just using the Hella incandescent version.

There should be a power control relay that prioritizes power to either the the washer or the A/C. The issue is locating it. First I would look inside your circuit breaker panel. If you have two circuit breaker boxes, then look in the main one, not the Inverter panel. If it's not there then look behind the washer.

The big Monaco coaches with a Detroit Series 60 are highly sought after. If you are a wood worker and can replace all the doors and repair the other items, I'd bid up to $50k on it. If you have to go to Oregon and purchase all the wood work, it will cost a small fortune. Good luck!

It's perfectly doable, but you will occasionally have to back a trailer. With time you will get very good. We use two walkie talkies with my wife performing lookout duties. Skip the V nose. It's behind your motorhome. (Sorry John). Actually, the tailgate has almost as much drag as the nose. Look at aluminum trailers like Featherlite and Gold Rush. Avoid the plywood trailers as they weigh almost double and will deteriorate quickly. Aluminum Enclosed Trailers | Featherlite Trailers (fthr.com) Welcome to Gold Rush Inc.

We have a 2004 Signature. Should be identical with an HWH air leveling system. The reset button is on the drivers left side console most of the way to the rear.

I think it converts the Aladdin display video to NTSC so you can display it on your TV.

What is the issue? I've been able to fix some issues by removing the fuses and wire connectors and cleaning them with DeOxit D5. Most of these boards were manufactured by Intellitec. You may have to remove it, but you need the number off the board. Then perform a Google search. Also, if it's just a bad relay, you can purchase those and replace them.

I've had good luck with the small DeWalt pancake compressor. It has 165psi and has worked well for filling large class A tires to 120psi. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWFP55126-6-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00K34UZBW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dewalt+air+compressor&qid=1614038104&sr=8-2

Instead of WD40, I'd use DeOxit. https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Deoxit&qid=1614012114&sr=8-3

If your front A/C is original, it is not compatible with the CCC2 thermostat. You can get an adapter control board for your new Penguin II to work with the old 5 button thermostat. Or you can also replace the front A/C with a new one. You also need to set the dip switches on the new unit for the proper zone and if there is a furnace connected.

Just remove the aluminum probe and clean it with Scotchbrite or steel wool. It helps if you have two probes as you can always have one ready to go. We put a new probe in the lathe and bored a hole up the center. It still needed cleaning periodically. Just be caerful not to overtighten the probe or the bottle will crack.

Yes, it's the same with the data cable on the inverter remote control also.

Your generator will run two 15k btu heat pumps or A/C just fine. The current draw from 13.5k to 15k is negligible. The thermostat version must match the A/C version. When you get into trouble is when you try to replace only one A/C. Dometic makes a conversion control board for the old 5 button Comfort Control (2002-2012). They do not make a conversion control board for the older 4 button thermostat that came in your 1995 model. If you replace both A/C units and install a new compatible thermostat, you should be fine. If you order from PPL, just tell them you need the new CC2 (Comfort Control 2) thermostat to match your new A/C. There are several shops in Mesa that will do this for you, but it will be expensive. And new A/C units are hard to get right now. You should consider staying with heat pumps as it will only be a few hundred extra and it adds versatility. If you stay with Dometic, you have a choice of the standard height Brisk Air II, Penguin II (low profile), or the Blizzard NXT. RV Air Conditioners and Parts for sale | PPL Motor Homes Just wanted to add there are only four bolts holding an A/C on the roof and they are accessed from inside. The only hard part is getting the new unit up on the roof. I used a very long ladder and pulled the box up the ladder with a nylon strap.

When you replace just one A/C, you have to purchase the adapter control board for it to function with your original thermostat. So there is an advantage to replacing both at the same time. And the new thermostat does have functions that make it nicer. I've never heard of anyone complaining about too much cooling so I would spend the extra money and go with two 15K btu units. You can call Dometic customer service and ask the question on the two different models. 800-544-4881

Depending on how your system is wired you should be able to do this. Sometimes they are daisy chained. Lower your rear A/C filter inside and disconnect the RJ11 telephone cord to the rear A/C and then see if you can still control your front unit. Now, I need to ask why? Is it because RecPro says they are quieter? Down the road when you want to sell this coach some folks may balk at a system like this. And, the front unit does the bulk of the cooling work. I would install a 15K Dometic Heat Pump on the front and the rear would not have to work as much. There are also quiet kits you can get for the rear unit.

Great find! Let us know if it fits?

You probably should start a new thread with the lighting problem. Almost all of your lights are 12v. The fuses are the small blade fuses in your bath or closet. If a fuse doesn't fix it, then get out the voltmeter and start checking for voltage at the switches and work backwards.

I no longer use the large 8D batteries. I'm using two NAPA Group 31 batteries rated at 1100CCA each. They are 12V and I connect them in parallel. They crank better and last longer than the 8D batteries. Plus they are much easier to handle.

We have similar coaches. I agree with Dennis but I'd also check your backup camera. It sounds like the camera is always on and you are getting audio noise. Have someone stand at the back and say something.

There are rubber hoses attached from the regulator to the hard line. That is usually where they develop leaks. Also sometimes at the compressed fittings.

First, what warning light are you getting? Here is a link to Cummins lamp ID guide: https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/files/brochures/Cummins Driver Lamp Identification Card 4971518.pdf Next, you will not get a light that means the oil needs changing. Most check engine lights are related to sensors on the engine. When were the fuel filters changed? Many of the issues with these large diesel engines are related to the fuel filters. Where did you take the coach for service? Do they have a certified Cummins technician with the proper diagnostic equipment? Do you have a complete list of the codes?

You will hear the diesel burner inside the coach when it's running. If you are on electric only, you will get a small amount of hot water and a limited amount of coach interior heating. You should turn on the Aqua Hot diesel switch inside the coach (probably in the kitchen) and hear the diesel burner light. First you will hear the pump spin up, then after about 20 seconds you will hear the burner light. It will sound like a small jet engine and the Aqua Hot exhaust pipe will blow out very hot exhaust. Hopefully it has been serviced. If not it can smoke badly.The diesel burner will run for about 20 min and then first the burner will shut down and it will go into the cool down cycle for 1-2 min and finally shutdown and all will be quiet until the system demands more heat.

Reset the Dometic Comfort Control thermostat by sliding the black switch on the bottom to off. Then while holding both the top and bottom buttons down, slide the switch on. You will see FF in the display. From your description it's difficult to tell what's wrong. First, when you turn on the Aqua Hot diesel switch do you hear the diesel burner light and run for about 20 min? Also, to heat the entire coach in cold weather will require the diesel burner. The electric Aqua Hot is only for small heating situations or a small amount of hot water. The heat pumps work well down to about 40 degrees. Below that they loose efficiency and the coils begin to freeze up.

Your Aqua Hot can heat water as well as the inside of the coach using heat from the engine while traveling. Look at page 128 of your owners manual. Engine Heat Exchange System: When traveling, the water pump on the engine circulates heated engine coolant through the Aqua-Hot. Through convection, heat transfers to the Aqua-Hot coolant, providing hot water and interior heating. Use the Comfort Control to operate the heat exchangers. To Heat the Interior While Traveling: • Turn on the interior house power. • Set the Comfort Controls to Furnace. • Select the desired Zone and Temperature.

HWH uses the Thomas 405ADC 12v air compressor. It's the same one used in dental offices, so its very quiet. You can purchase a new pump for $374.99. NEW THOMAS 405ADC38/12 Piston Air Compressor,1/10HP,12VDC 100PSI FREE S&H! 94700357458 | eBay Or you can purchase a rebuild kit for $270. NEW OEM THOMAS 405ADC38/12 Rebuild /Service KIT Piston Air Compressor SK405DCMAJ | eBay If you air the coach up as high as it will go and place jack stands under the rear crossmember for safety, you can remove the old pump in a few min. Replacing HWH auxiliary air pump: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-hwh-auxilary-air-pump-369684.html You're going to have a hard time finding someone that will reliably work on the air suspension system. I would avoid most RV repair places and focus on a large truck/bus repair center. Give Paul Maddox (AZPete) a call and ask who he recommends. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net<mailto:pfmaddox@att.net> and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a message. Fixing Air system A large percentage of the time (maybe 90%+) the leaks are in the air solenoid valves, or "6 packs". They need new o-rings installed both inside the solenoid and also where the air lines insert into the solenoid. You need to get the coach up in the air because after you locate the leaks you need to bleed the air down to work on the solenoids. If you do not have a lift, build some ramps from 2" X 12" boards stair stepped together. Someone also posted a link to a leak detector spray product on Amazon that is superior at finding leaks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B00LOS/?coliid=IU9P1ZNDSADZ4&colid=32KSGI9ODYMBD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it This process takes lots of time and patience and very few shops have either. HWH will work on your system if you are near Iowa or Paul Maddox. A good way to start would be to search the IRV2 Monaco and Roadmaster sections and pre-purchase the o-rings needed. Mike Canter suggests you use Dupont Viton orings. The internal oring is a -019 size, the large one on the bottom is a -028 and the small one on the bottom is a -015. Then remove the 6-pack valves in both front and rear and rebuild them. Label all wires and air lines. It will help to have a special "pin wrench" tool and cannon plug pliers to get the valves apart. Here are some links to get you started: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/air-leak-in-chassis-leveling-system-160935.html You Tube video: http://beamalarm.com/Documents/hwh/hwh-solenoid-valve-disassemble.html Hope this helps.