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Welcome to Monacoers! The power shades have a fuse/breaker in the front run bay (outside below the drivers feet). It's on board 11, Fuse 4, 6 amps. (Ours is a small breaker but some are fuses). It powers both shades. The relay is in the Intelletec system fuse board (usually in the rear closet). Should be Fuse 2, 5 amps. More than likely they are Carefree of Colorado shades and the motors are bad. Try putting a voltmeter on the wires going to the shades. The shades are installed with 2 screws, one on each end. Ours were square drive. If you need new shades, I purchased ours from PPL as they had the best price and fast shipping. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/entertainment-comfort-camping/sun-shade/shades-visors

Monaco used readily available suspension parts for trucks and busses. Try these guys. (You'll need the measurements). http://www.truckcomponentsonline.com/TRUCK-CASTER-SHIMS_c_316.html Or, try Source Engineering. 458-207-9442

I'd recommend you replace your Trace inverter with a Magnum. Monaco switched to Magnum inverters in 2006. Magnum inverters are made in the US and have great tech support and parts readily available. Magnum inverters also have a three year parts and labor warranty. A Magnum ME2012 will install with a minimum of rewiring (you will need a new longer ground cable). If you need a pure sine inverter (required for some electronics and residential refrigerators) then a Magnum MS2012 will work well. https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/mobile-power-products/inverter-chargers?field_input_current_tid_selective[]=89&field_output_power_watts_value[min]=200&field_output_power_watts_value[max]=15000&field_output_frequency_value_selective[]=2&field_output_voltage_value_selective[]=1 This place has great prices on Magnum inverters. i also saw one of the marine supply places had them on sale. https://www.donrowe.com/Magnum-Energy-ME2012-p/me2012.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt62FpsLD7AIVBInICh314QDTEAMYASAAEgIOkfD_BwE

Unfortunately, most RV repair places do not stock air conditioners. There are to may different versions so it would be tough. I purchased a new Penguin II (low profile) heat pump from PPL RV parts last year. They are one of the largest RV parts dealers and usually have most models in stock. Give them a call and ask when they expect A/C's to show up. Below is a link to the PPL A/C page: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner?facetValueFilter=tenant~manufacturer%3adometic Also, I'd recommend you purchase one of the 15,000btu or high capacity units for the front.

I just went through a similar issue with the Aqua Hot in our 04 Monaco. I first had an intermittent issue and I had the electronic controller rebuilt. It ran for a few months. This is the guy that rebuilds the controller: James Frerichs <frerichs@rcom-ne.com Two weeks ago it did not light again. I again replaced the fuel filter and nozzle, but with no help. I then tested the fuel by disconnecting the outlet fuel hose (right where it exits the Aqua Hot Stainless Steel enclosure) and placing it into a container. This was an eye opener as the fuel does not shut off when my helper turned the inside switch off. I had to quickly disconnect the controller main wire connector. I also checked for closed circuit in the high limit thermostat (one with black circle on it). It was good. I again removed the pump/nozzle assembly and then removed the ignition coil from the top (four Phillips screws). I applied +12v to the black wire and watched for spark across the electrodes. When you do this leave the brown (ground) wire connected. At first I could hear a very weak spark for about three tries (but really couldn't see it) and then nothing. I called John Carrillo ((970) 518-3085) and he was sure it was the ignition coil. I ordered the ignition coil from him and he shipped it the same day. John is great and even offered a discount. As soon as I connected the new coil brown wire to ground and again applied +12v to the black wire I saw a large spark jump the electrode gap. I tried it several times and it worked every time. I then read in the repair manual that these ignition coils are often intermittent and need to be tested repeatedly. When I reassembled everything the Aqua Hot came on and I could hear the diesel burner light and the exhaust was hot. It has now worked well for a week. Keeping my fingers crossed!

RV Glass solutions in Phoenix had a back lot with 50 amp electrical hookups. We spent the night there while they repaired our fogged window. Very professional group.

I replaced ours with Valvoline MaxLife synthetic. Its backwards compatible with Dexron II, Dexron III, or Dexron IV. Ours takes 50-55 quarts. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-MaxLife-Multi-Vehicle-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/15125768?findingMethod=wpa You can save a little money going with non-synthetic. This is also compatible with Dexron II or Dexron III. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon-Bottle/20573820?athcpid=20573820&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=2e4c9f96-006-174c7b39b9098d&athancid=null&athena=true

How do you know it's not working? On a good day the 100w panel only produces 5 amps and is not enough to recharge the batteries. You will have a Helitrope charge controller on the ceiling of the large basement storage bay. There may be a fuse near there or it may possibly be near the battery compartment. From the charge controller, output is split to both the chassis and house batteries. The distribution box is on the roof next to the refrigerator vent. The wires go down through the vent behind the refrigerator into the basement. If you decide you need more, it's easy to replace the 100w panel with a 200 or 225w panel.

The old drains can be adapted but you will need to drill new holes in the bottom steel pan. You will also need two A/C to roof gaskets each to make space for the drains. If you decide to replace only one of the front heat pumps then you will need a retrofit control board for it to work with your old 5 button CCC thermostat and the older heat pump. You cannot adapt an older heat pump or A/C to the new 10 button thermostat. They are saying it's very difficult to locate new A/C or heat pumps after Covid-19. I'd check with PPL Motor Home parts.

Have you tried starting the generator? Is the green LED status light on the side of the inverter (in the basement) off, flashing slow, or flashing fast? Have you checked the three small round white push in circuit breakers on the side of the inverter? Next thing to try is an inverter reset by depressing the white inverter power button (on the side of the inverter next to the phone cord) for 15 seconds until the LED comes on and starts flashing rapidly. Link to your inverter manual: https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/me-series-invertercharger-owners-manual-64-0002-rev-c

You can easily reassign the zones. The zone number is set by positioning the dip switch on each A/C control board. Need to pull the plastic shroud and then the small metal cover over the control board. Just be careful not to break the dip switches. I set the front as zone one, the center as zone 2, and the rear as zone 3. When you install a new heat pump or A/C, you have a choice of operating it with the new programmable CCC2 thermostat, or installing a retrofit control board and operating it with the older 5 button CCC. However, you cannot control an older heat pump or A/C with a new CCC2 thermostat. Either way they operate through an RJ11 telephone cord.

On our 2004 Signature the HWH reset switch is on the drivers side console all the way to the rear.

Remove the alum sensor and clean it with a scotchbrite pad. Be careful not to crack the bottle when reinstalling.

This is a link on how to clean the radiator stack: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/how-to-properly-clean-a-side-radiator-condenser-oil-cooler-cac-501612.html The oil pressure gauge uses a different sensor than the engine ECU. The gauge sending unit is a common VDO sending unit with two outputs, one for the gauge and one for the warning light. It is part number VDO 360 023. More on the oil pressure gauge: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/trying-to-fix-oil-pressure-gauge-on-2004-monaco-signature-350743.html

Bart, I recognize your old 2007 remote as the early Trimark system which you already found is out of production. However, you can purchase an aftermarket programmable remote for it. I purchased a new Remocon RMC-105 universal remote fob from:https://www.cruisingforremotes.com/They preset the frequency (on the back of the old remote) and I programmed it to my original Trimark RF receiver using the steps in post #21 in the link below. It locks, unlocks, and also lights the entry lights.The FCC ID is: JLFTX4 310mhz Read post # 22. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/help-with-trimark-key-fob-programming-324146-2.html Let me know if you have any more questions?

Paul, you are truly a genius! With a little bit of mad scientist mixed in.

Check the chassis battery voltage. You will probably find it's low. Charge it, or jumper the generator and charge everything back up.

I would guess up through the rear cap into the rear closet area somewhere. You should also check where the steering column comes up through the floor. There is a large plastic cover over it inside so it may be easier to check from underneath.

I believe the Series 60 Detroit came from the factory with a wax valve fan speed controller attached to the side of the radiator. The Cummins engines used a Sauer Danfoss electronic controller that fails quite often.

Richard and Bill are correct. The old drain kit does not fit the new A/C units. It can be adapted by drilling some new holes but it will be an easier install with the new drain kit. Regardless, you need two roof gaskets for the drain cups to fit under the unit.

One of our talented members soldered service ports to his Dometic A/C and successfully recharged it. Sometimes they will slowly leak down around the seals while sitting through the winter and recharging can add some additional service life. I replaced one of our 13,500 Penguin Heat Pumps with a new high capacity Penguin II. They used to label them as 15,000btu but now refer to them as high capacity. I only replaced one of three units so I installed a retrofit control board so it was compatible with my 5 button Dometic thermostat. I agree it produces more cold air and cools down faster than the older units. If you decide to install one new unit I recommend you install it in the center position. This position is able to cool both the bedroom and the living room. PPL Motorhomes runs some great sales on these units and they also have the retrofit control boards. There are only four bolts holding it on the roof. Once you get it up on the roof they are fairly easy to replace. The adapter control board is Dometic #3313107.107 (control board adapter kit).

I see John has a 2009 Camelot also. Like the others said, first you need to tell us where you have no power. Try resetting the shore power breaker on the pedestal. When I say reset I mean turn off, and then back on. Then try resetting the two breakers in your main breaker box that go to the Inverter. Next is to crawl into the basement and find the push in breakers on the Magnum inverter. You can also try running your generator and see if that resolves the issue. Let us know how it goes?

We also added a third battery and used the larger NAPA Group 31 with 1150CCA. What really helps is one of the new Denso gear reduction starters. For your Cummins CM870 engine the part number is: Denso R5 428000-4440 It will crank the engine over so fast you will not believe the difference. And that is without pressing the boost switch. Be careful not to get one of the knock offs. Not hard to change but it is heavy.

The dual in/dual out is interesting. Our MSH3012 inverter only has a single AC input (50amps). According to Glen (the Magnum tech), it is designed this way so the hybrid inverter can sense the AC throughput. For input wiring, I already had two 10 gauge wires running from the main breaker panel to the inverter in the basement. Instead of rewiring and adding a single 8 gauge wire, I ran the two 10 gauge wires in parallel. As far as 12v cable size from the batteries, it only matters if you are running a heavy amp draw from the batteries. I have no plans on running my A/C units from battery power and I do not like to run the microwave on inverter power. The startup amperage for the microwave is hard on the inverter system as well as hard on the microwave. It's just easier to start the generator. However, I think the larger Monaco coaches come with 4/0 cables. saflyer, you can install an MS2812 (or MSH3012) using your existing wires, just make sure you size your breakers according to the wire size. If later you decide you want more available amperage, then you can add more batteries and pull new cables.

Try removing your regulator and see if the flow improves. Some regulators will severely restrict flow.