6Wheels

A properly installed and adjusted supplementary braking system will reduce the distance it takes to stop. It will prevent jackknifing and damage to the towing gear. We all know how much a cap repair costs, so $1-2000 is a worthwhile investment in my opinion. I used the RVi2 for towing because we only keep our vehicles 2-3 years, and we share the coach with family. This system can be moved vehicle to vehicle.

Maybe a braided grounding strap would carry the leaking current away from the rollers and eliminate the damage. Connect from the tray to ground on the battery. Amazon.com : braided grounding strap

The biggest area where heat comes in is behind the cabinets in the front. If you can get access, try spraying closed cell foam along the top of the windshield up to where the cap meets the roofline. Go under the dash and plug any holes you can find. Check your slide seals to make sure they seat properly. If not put some talcum powder, baby powder, or slide seal treatment on the inside and outside of the seals and check again. Check under the kitchen and bathroom sinks for leaks in the floor where rodents and hot (cold) air might ingress. If you can access under the shower pan inspect for the same. As already stated, a see-through heat reflective windshield cover is excellent for summer heat from the sun. You could see a 10-12 degree drop in that area if done right. That helps the front AC keep up. If you have a thermal imaging camera use it to find any leaks. Use slow expansion foam to plug the leaks. However, if the gap is large, first stuff it with fine steel wool if possible to prevent rodents from chewing their way into the coach. The best time to do this is when it is cold outside. Warm up the interior for a couple hours and then scan with the camera - it will be obvious where you have a leak. I just remembered another leak we fixed. The front door is provided to Fleetwood by a "vendor". When I stopped in Indiana to have the post-delivery warranty issues (many) fixed that the dealer could not address, one of the items on the punch list was noise from somewhere in the front area. After three trips around the block to find the leak and adding sealant in critical areas, we found that the door also was not installed properly. These are cheap doors, unlike the ones you find on upper-end coaches (Prevost, Newell . .) The on-site tech (vendor) spent a couple hours adjusting the door position, seals, etc. He was able to get a balance we could live with. Again, these are cheap doors. Anyway, the front door may be leaking, so check that out on yours.

I found this information on the Microsoft site how to convert old Symphony wr1 files to Word doc - Microsoft Community

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I got stuck with the Discovery in our front yard, because we couldn't back in from the side street. The only choice was to come in through the main road and hope it didn't sink. That didn't work, so I had to call a tow truck to winch it out for $50. I was lucky. We sold the house soon after. The rig was too heavy for the 4" of concrete with no base, and the RV garage would no longer fit our RV. It was fine for our 32 ft. rig, but when we upgraded this home just didn't fit the bill. Went full time for a while to see how that would work out, and when winter came, we got an apartment (compartment). This story is very long, I'll write a journal someday (or not).

It appears that you also are temporarily homeless! Glad to hear you have it resolved, it could have been a lot worse.

CAC = Central Air Conditioning RAD = Rare Antarctic Disease

Chris, Try baiting the Copperhead into a trap. You can use a minnow trap if you already have one. Use "Nothing But Mice" for the bait, or even live bait if you can find some. Small toads, lizards, etc.

Ben, I learned a long time ago to compare the cost of a service to what you make per hour. If you do better working a couple hours instead of doing the work yourself, then it pays to let the experts do it. Now with coaches you have to factor in the joy of working on your baby and knowing it is done right, plus the added benefit of being familiar with things when they go wrong. Plus you get to buy a lot of cool expensive tools!

Diesel went up this week from 4.39 to 5.49 in North Georgia.

FCCC, not Cummins.

We live so close the Freightliner Custom Coach in Gafney, SC that it is easier to camp and service than to do the work. I don't have the size tools that it requires, nor the knowledge. When you take it to the factory service shop you know they will follow the book and hit everything on the list. You can watch them if you want. (pre "covid")

Mexico has never been 100% safe. Watch some cowboy movies. You have to know when and where you can travel safely, but even then, all it takes is one individual to mess up your day. My roommate in college told me that the "banditos" set up ambushes in the remote areas, take all your money & and anything else they want (wife, kids?), and if you resist they have no problem with disposing of you. That was in the 70's. Now that the clandestine operations from US are entrenched and in complete control via the cartels, with corruption at every level, it has gotten really bad. I would feel like a juicy 12 inch fish swimming by myself in a large pool of sharks, just waiting for the sharks to notice me. The best advice from those who really know is travel in caravans, maybe even hire security. Never travel at night. If you don't know the area bring someone who does, and if there is any question take another route. Check daily with the locals, and remember they might be scouts for the cartel. Don't talk too much about yourself or your family, don't bring in anything you wouldn't want to lose. With all that said, I hope you have a wonderful time and never have these issues while there. If you do and survive - you will have an interesting story to tell. Here's some study material: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mexican+banditos+ambush

What is this ROFLMAO? How is it pronounced?

Does this slide clamp turn clockwise to tighten? Some do. Is there a tension screw (hidden)?

I like it!

With all the nice pictures I have a question. How do you keep critters from scooting up the opening into the basement?

Yes, unless you have a rear window, the view is better from the front. Utilities would then be on the driver side if you pulled into the site instead of backing in.

SteveC: I never received feedback from the King. One of the other employees told me that I was criticized for my suggestions in passing. My impression is that the King asked me to submit any suggestions in order to put me off. He must have already had a design in mind. I'm sure that with his vast experience my petty ideas were of no consequence. TimAZ is correct about the attitude of government with regards to listening to and doing the will of the people it serves. This is the biggest problem we have going right now with the gov. Bob: This park probably has 25% big rig occupancy or more if you include 5thers. The park was built in the 60's and needed updates for years and this guy finally looked like he might do something. It is the only County managed park on this side of the lake and is a money maker. Typical of government, the septic field had to completely fail before anyone paid attention. I am a firm believer of "plan, then execute" instead of "panic, draw from the hip". We as locals spent more time than most for a couple years in this park so we became quite familiar with its issues. Since I was asked to present suggestions in a letter, I submitted them as you read. However, maybe I should have dropped the engineering approach. Chuck: Back in the 60s most camping was done in tents. This park was remodeled a few years back, spending a lot of money (millions) but whoever designed the work missed a few things especially in predicting how these sites were to be occupied by larger land yachts. The second half of the park was set up for tents and smaller trailers but was seldom full. Back then they were planning upgrades for these sites. I will have to go back and see what they have done, as it has been 5 years now. 1NOLAguy: Don't know the inner workings of the process at the county, nor the corp. of engineers. They keep that a secret. I'm over it, just thought I would start a discussion.

I was talking to the county's new campground King about some of the improvements he had planned for Shady Grove Campground in GA. The year was 2016. After submitting suggestions (that he told me to submit) I received feedback that was quite snarky (how dare a citizen who uses the campground offer any suggestions, or criticism). No feedback to me directly, but through someone I know at the County. The topic was a failed and neglected sanitary station - the only one in the whole campground. The county has the money, so that was not the issue. Message starts here . . . I became aware of improvements scheduled for this year and was asked to provide my input for suggestions. ENTRANCE (Main Entrance at gate) Getting in and out of the entrance is difficult for full-sized rigs. The normal height for a motorhome is 12’10” (but up to 13’4”) and the width is 8’6” plus the mirrors. The length can exceed 45 ft. If any changes are made in this area, please widen the drive to a minimum of 12 feet, and check the swing of longer wheel bases (my 42 ft. has a wheel base of 176”, some go up to 302”). Some chassis can swing up to 3.5 ft. so trees and brush have to be cleared to accommodate that far from any curved pavement. DUMPING STATION I know you are already addressing the failed sewerage system. As far as the actual facility, there are a few issues remaining. Again, larger rigs have a tight squeeze to get in the driveway. The driveway is not wide enough to allow a longer unit to stay on the pavement resulting in tire tracks in the dirt and the mud that goes with that. This applies not only to motorhomes, but 5th wheel trailers as well. Trees can be a hazard when navigating this area and should be trimmed back 10 feet from the driveway. The pavement currently is pitched away from the septic tank inlet, resulting in raw sewerage running out on the driveway, as evidenced by toilet paper still on the driveway. There is no good way to get it back down the inlet, even when rinsed with the hose. If I were designing this from scratch, first I would make the concrete for the inlet 6’ x 6’ and I would make a 6” curb around all four sides, and pitch the concrete toward the center where the tank inlet is with at least a 2” drop. I would make the driveway pavement pitch slightly toward the inlet to help the holding tanks drain more completely (rig leans toward the drain). The driveway would be even with the top of the curb around the sewer inlet. Currently there is a fixture with a spring and hose that has been damaged from usage and time. It is too close to the driveway which makes it difficult to maneuver when setting up the sewer hoses and opening the doors to the wet bay. I would bring it back 4 feet from the edge of the driveway/curb. Then I would provide both the spring and hose as it is now with a permanent spray attachment. This was a good design when it was new. I would add another 20 foot hose with the end terminated in a male standard hose fitting for flushing tanks on modern rigs. Don’t forget the back-flow preventers. I would be emphatic with a sign in the area stating that any water available in the dump station is NOT for drinking. Move the trash can intended for disposal of gloves and wipes back to allow better access to the facility and to not block the area. End . . . It makes me wonder what the attitude towards the public is across the country. I hope this county is the exception.

Sharkbite fittings will work on PEX-B not PEX-A. In a mobility environment I would not advise these fittings due to the vibration they would experience. I would not put them behind a wall either. The best fittings would be the crimped ring, but the clamps are good as well. None of these will last forever.

You have PEX-B, 3/8"

There are two common kinds of PEX in use for plumbing. There is the red/blue/white PEX-B and there is the white PEX-A (red/blue can be found but hard to find) PEX-A is my preference because if the water inside the line freezes, it can expand to greater degree compared to PEX-B. However, PEX-A uses different fittings and requires a more expensive expansion tool ($399) vs. the much less expensive crimp fittings used on PEX-B that works with a crimping tool ($25-$50). PEX Tubing size Outside Diameter Minimum wall thickness Inside Diameter 1/4" 0.375 0.0575 0.26 3/8″ 0.500″ 0.070″ 0.360″ 1/2″ 0.625″ 0.070″ 0.485″

That was my size in 5th grade. And no, I don't fit into the same jeans I had in high school!