6Wheels

In response to the OP original topic, here is a video on that right here: How To Connect An RV To External Propane - TheRVgeeks

I would not run bio-diesel in my tractor unless it was specifically designed for that fuel mix. Never in an expensive DP. Even though some of you are running without DEF, I like being able to breath in the barn with the engine running (door open of course).

I should clarify regarding RV voltage (this is covered extensively elsewhere). There are NO 240 VAC circuits on your rig. Your home's dryer is designed to run on 240 VAC. The breaker you are installing for the RV is actually 2 120 VAC circuits and is wired such that they each can deliver 50A to each of the 2 120VAC circuits, a total of 100 Amps.

Dryer plug is 240 VAC - RV is 120 VAC and is NOT compatible. You are better off installing a dedicated breaker and the correct outlet for your coach. If you are not competent and confident do not attempt this yourself. The attachment should guide you through the process. In my case I had to add a sub-panel to allow enough space to add the circuits. I am an electrician and don't recommend this to an amateur due to code and safety reasons. Wiring for 50 Amps.pdf

It seems prices have doubled since you last bought the 15# tank. The RV version is now $871.95 Power Tank Packages I use the Amazon.com: Viair 40047 400P-RV Automatic Portable Compressor Kit: Automotive <$300

The word ban is used entirely too often in today's society. It is a violation free speech when one person doesn't like to hear that of another and tries to silence them. Let's try to avoid this kind of tyranny.

On both of our coaches we were told to turn all appliances OFF before connecting/disconnecting shore power. Wait until the transfer switch pops before turning back on. This is especially applicable to the AC's and microwave.

Drain the fresh water tank and all holding tanks. Now might be a good time to pressure clean the holding tanks (black and grey water) to remove any Struvite deposits (yout.be/2mGY63kgjh8) Drain the water heater and leave the plug out, then close the cold water input side valve. Make sure the bypass valve is NOT routing water into the water heater. Having drained the plumbing as much as possible previously via low-point drains, now make sure that all valves are closed so you have a closed system. 20 lbs. will work just as good as 60 lbs. Connect the compressor to the the Schrader valve and pressurize the plumbing to 20-30 lbs. Then open the farthest faucet cold first, then hot. Repressurize to 20-30 lbs. and go to the next faucet, etc. until all fixtures have been flushed. Sinks, shower, toilet, toilet sprayer, outside shower, electric pressure washer, and the washer. Open the low point drain valves, the fresh water drain, and all fixtures so any residual fluids can escape. Pour a couple cups of RV antifreeze into the washer and run a rinse cycle briefly. Pour 1 cup antifreeze into each sink trap and the shower(s) drain. If you have a pressure regulator switch on the compressor you should be able to set to 20 lbs. and keep the compressor running. It should shut off shortly after you connect to the Schrader valve, meaning it only pumps when the pressure drops. If it runs continuously use above method. Pray for warmer weather so you can flush out the tanks and sanitize for the next season. If all else fails, head South!

Take note: Suburban water heaters have a sacrificial anode because they have steel tanks. Use an OEM anode as some of the aftermarket versions DON'T WORK! Atwood water heaters have an aluminum tank and do not require an anode rod.

If 50A is available, I would put a 1200W ceramic heater behind the driver set to 50 deg., with all the cabinets under sink and bath, as well as shower door open. Second - there are tanks below, right? Put a mini heater down there and set to low and adjust the temps to 45 deg. I put it it my wet bay. We've been doing this for 8 years with no issues down to 20 deg. Add a third heater in the bath if it goes below 20.

Once you figure the operation out by testing JP5, you could get a SPDT momentary switch and hardwire it in permanently. Problem solved.

good write-up is here: 30-Amp and 50-Amp RV Service: 7 Things You Need to Know | etrailer.com

Does anyone recall folding and re-using "tin foil"? We had a drawer dedicated to that.

We have the RVi2 because have 3 vehicles involved as toweds. The setup for each brake system on the AF1 costs money, and with the RVi, if we add a vehicle all that is needed is brackets and wiring-no need to pay the mechanic to install the braking hardware or for that matter buy the hardware. Either will work well.

Are you sure that marine plywood is in current production. I suspect you will see OSB in many.

We have our home trimmed in AZEK, and we have the 900 sq ft covered deck covered with their TimberTech. Recommend.

Instead of a subterranean drain, you could pour the slab with a curb to direct water away from the walls into a trough in the center of the parking space. By a trough I mean just an area1-2 inches lower than the sides at the curb. Slant the trough from the far end toward the overhead door and out the building, or if you will have two doors maybe from the center. Be specific in your requirements with the concrete company so you get no low spots that will collect liquids. Require laser leveling to avoid low spots as was mentioned. Finally, if you think about it you probably want the surface broom swept so you don't have a slip and fall accident. I know because our concrete was smooth finished and it is very slippery when wet! If you seal the walls properly or use metal siding you could have a wash bay with proper drainage. And as Bill said, be sure to seal the floor before you use it. Product recommended: Siloxa-Tek 8505 Ultra Concentrate - 1 Gallon (Makes 5 GALLONS) Penetrating Concrete Sealer, Water, Salt & Oil Repellent This is a 40% formula, so compare it to others that are 20% or even less (as low as 8%). In warmer climates any water based siliconate mixture will suffice. Be sure to match the treatment to the finish on the surface you choose. There are both smooth finish and rough finish formulations.

Of course if the whole coach is involved there is more prep, but if you hit a "goal post" at the fueling station all you might need is a new bay door and some paint in that area. 4 colors means more work and material. $3,800 worth in my case. The tech said he could do it for $2,100 with only one color.

If I had my 'druthers there would be only one color on my coach, or maybe one above and one below the bay doors. Every time a paint repair is done it costs thousands. If only one color was involved it would cost hundreds. Who came up with the current design so prevalent these days anyway?

If you have a reliable 12VDC power source on the trailer, you could set up a WiFi network and use IP Cameras. Need help?

eTrailer.com has these: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/STL179RB.html you surely can find a way to mask 1/2" at each end?

We had a cubical powered woofer next to the driver's seat in our '13 Discovery. The corners started tearing the seat material so I removed it and replaced it with an 8 in. self-amplified tube speaker. Works great and takes up no useable storage space. https://www.bing.com/search?q=tube+woofer&cvid=275cda00699d4a0dbed99b2246ac599a&pglt=547&FORM=ANNTA1&PC=HCTS

Can you secure a site on base? Some of these facilities are nicer than civilian.

https://dicorproducts.com/product/self-leveling-lap-sealants/

Try searching for dual pane RV skylight. All kinds of choices. For looks I would replace as a unit., plus you might want to look at tinted skylights if you are trying to keep heat out. https://www.bing.com/search?q=dual pane rv skylight&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=dual pane rv skylight&sc=0-21&sk=&cvid=3DA6159E8B5A4109B906991D2CACD030