TomV48

Thankfully, I've never had the problem but I have read a suggestion that might be of value. I have read that it takes a whole lot less to start your generator so jumper the truck batteries start the generator get the jumper off and then let the generator charge. If your battery charge crossovers are correct, (mine are not) you're inverter should step in and charge both sets of batteries. Otherwise make sure you use a real powerful jump starter because my book says we can pull a 1300 cold cranking amps. Good luck and Happy New Year Sir

Did that include checking the reset on the GFI? Mine in on the outlet in the bathroom though I hear it varies widely.

TRY this site for information They seem to be at the heart of MAGNUM parts and repair although no one jumps out and offers the schematics. https://www.zonnaenergy.com/parts/me2012-g-inverter-charger/

DITTO on the Breaker reset; and I would unplug and see how things are on just my Generator before I panic. If your coach wiring does not have a problem, you should have gotten nothing if the Neutral pin was not set up and if he fed Ground to Neutral from his house main panel you should not have had a problem although the GFI may not have liked it and may have popped too. All 50 amp outlets are basically 240 volt outlets and we just use one line or the other and the neutral but the ground line can figure in to the equation. Most homes should be Ground bonded to Neutral at the main box (never at the sub panel but not fatal to you if they are, just bad if you have a grounding short. Our coach should not be internally ground bonded, so you should have gotten nothing if his Electrician did not run neutral to the center pin, but strange things can happen. Any way lots of things to go wrong there. Hope you did not suffer a hard lesson. I will not plug in to any outlet without first hooking up our Progressive Industries EMS. It reads voltage, polarity, ground, neutral and whatever. It will not let me hook to anything bad, at least, not without warning me first. Hope on just your generator with the reset on the Magnum and the reset on the GFI, that you are ok. Good luck AND HEY Please be sure to let us know how things turn out. Otherwise Happy New Year Tom

Wow. That looks like some serious corrosion. Obviously, replace it. Locally for one of cables,if I don't have a big enough crimp I go to Interstate battery distributor who will make it on the spot

At the risk of repeating myself. I say again I put an oscilloscope on my 2004 model 2000 watt Magnum and it is a perfectly square wave. While most things will tolerate a bad waveform, when you can hear the difference in the motor between shore power and inverter power. Good mechanical sense says that just can't be the best thing for a motor. I am passively curious to know how many out there have replaced the old Magnum with the newer pure sine wave Magnum. It seems to be available in 2000 watt or 2800 Watt just bolt-in compatible with the old unit. I have been tempted but my wife said she'll kill me if I spend $1,800 on something that isn't broken, yet.

Sadly, we coaches of the lower model have no AH

I think it requires shore power or generator. I keep saying we will stay somewhere cold enough to test it, but so far it's just theory.

I am not concerned Rick. But they say modified sine, I put an oscilloscope on the now 19 yr old Magnum, and it is flat out a near perfect square wave. That said,the microwave runs on it but in DW's defense the motor cries when it is on inverter. I had to run the fridge on elect during a three week trip, (after burner failure while waiting 7 months on a new fridge back order), and was not always on shore power sites. With that 40+ amp draw on a 100% duty cycle, if I had not had the 600 amps of LiFePo, 600 watt solar and a 40-40 DC charger, we would not have made it.

Behind my fridge there are two outlets. The inverter circuit is intended for the ice maker. While the non inverter outlet is intended for the heating element. In an emergency I have run the frig off the inverter, as it pulls only 4-5 amps for the 500-600 watt boiler heater. I would not mess with 1500 watts on that leg, but even the fridge boiler heater was pulling over 40 amps from the batteries which is not desirable long term, even on my big battery bank. My wife will not even run the microwave on the inverter as it is not pure sine and the she says, "I don't like the way it sounds on the inverter, and the generator needs to run once in a while anyway."

Wow. Ambitious undertaking. If it is too challenging you might look at switching the microwave outlet and using it for the two as it is not likely you can run both at the same time off the inverter legs without shore power. Sorry I must admit not being too familiar with the separate inverter sub panel. But I did find it easier to run flex conduit through the basement when running wiring for my solar install.

With no water in the tank, can't you just turn the pump off. In both of my travel trailers, with just the basic little SureFlo pump, the pump was inside the coach and the tank below the floor. Neither had and trouble pumping up from below or self priming. My coach pump is next to the tank, below the water line until the tank is down to the last 15 or 20 gallons, and it does not even have to self prime and works fone. You must be sucking air somewhere when the tank becomes less than full.

Sounds like the same features as the TST. I won't take my toad up to the corner without the tire pressure monitors on it. Plus the 6 tires on the rig.

Weldex makes a color direct replacement I THINK. Prior owner of our rig had upgraded to that but then said the color intensity was so minimal he is not sure it was worth it. Anyway, I think I saw a receipt and it said rear and both side cameras $1600 installed. Oh and I hate the slow switch over went it changes with the turn signals

I'm not aware of anything that grows, fungus wise, that would be pink, but for safety sake I think I would do a sanitizing flush of the entire system. Couple of quarts of bleach could make a big difference and that process is a must-do annually for me anyway.

OMG. Our 05 Ambassador does that too. All of a sudden began about a year ago at 80,000 miles and keeps getting more and more troublesome.

I defer to your wisdom. I haven't been since mid sixties so back when it was one lane each way through the res.

Been 55 yrs since I did it, but I seem to recall pretty good mountain between Roswell and Alamogordo. My default thought would be look Carlsbad to Alamogordo. Figure out what wrong--with the 82, if any thing. Is that a big RV Garmin wanting you to go the long way?

I think traditionally, controls in the dash, actuate a valve in the hot water line from the hot side of the radiator. In my car and trucks they are on the outside side of the dash/firewall. Usually it is a vacuum control activating a diaphragm that opens the valve. Sadly or gratefully, I have never had to look at ours in the DP.

You can just call CalTrans at 1 800-427-7623 speak the highway number and it will give you up to the minute road report on the requested road. Traffic feature on Google maps is sometimes more comprehensive. But also sometimes wrong completely.

Looks normal but then what do I know?

Oh heck yes. If you don't have them buy them. Ur TSTs have saved my bacon twice. One time it was less than 2 miles from home that I had a problem with my brakes dragging on my toe. That's the kind of thing that can catch the toad on fire and cause a real problem. I won't even take it down to the shop for service without the tire pressure monitors working on all 10 wheels. Like I said has saved our bacon twice.

The Watts link in front and cross bars in rear made our coach corner like a sports car and the tail wag is gone. Looking to put the cross bars on the front too. Just had Cary from Kaiser Brake & Alignment, in Eugene , tune up our alignment and inspect the king pins and other running gear. He was very caught up in wheeling around on test drives. Maybe the shortest wheel base in a pusher at 196 inches but our baby can corner. I gave him an opening to sell me shocks, but he passed on replacing the Bilsteins on there. After deliberately crossing some tracks and gutters he said it pretty well stops bouncing on the second bounce which is all you can hope for with our RR8R chassis. Kaiser in Eugene and Henderson's Lineup in Grants Pass seem to be the Gold Standard for undercarriage. Both were recommended to me by Source Engineering Inc. the guys who designed the specialty shocks for our rigs.

I stripped our back to factory default. That dumped all maps. Then in a three hour + process, I hooked it to a computer and downloaded only the newest map sets. With a clean install it is working better and smarter. Only time will tell if I cleaned it up enough.

Well it should be simple. Shunt is the only thing hooked to the Negative terminal of the battery and all negatives or grounds hook to the other side of the hunt. A simple buss bar can be added to give plenty of hook up points for Negatives.