cbr046

My ATC light has been coming on intermittently, maybe 5 secs once or twice every few hours. And the cruise control would kick out of overdrive (or down to 5th) on flat ground. I don't know if those 2 are related. Then coming home through a big rain (cats & dogs stuff) this past weekend started hearing an alarm very faintly but no lights. Stopped & restarted after ~ 15 minutes of ignoring it and the alarm stopped. I didn't think of it at the time but maybe it was the ABS module down in the service bay under me, which has an LED on the module. The ABS bulb does light on startup (so we know the bulb works). rogers59 - what connections did you clean / dry ? Best, - bob

This is kinda out there, but no way was I going to pay $400 for a board inside my roof's dome that would let it's single LNB work with my Dish Network receiver. No way. So . . . . I bought a 3 LNB dish (same as mounted on the house) and mounted it to a 4 legged home built PVC stand, 2 ft out and 2 ft down. I don't even glue the joints and it folds up flat for storage. A bit of coax, a $15 satellite beeper, a bit of patience and I'm good for instantaneous HDMI channel changing on 3 satellites. I imagine you could do the same with DirectTV. Now, this isn't for everyone, but I move a lot and can't count on a clear Southern sky when I get there. The coax plugs into the Cable TV jack back in the power service bay (03 HR Endeavor) and I didn't like the DirectTV receiver location so my Dish receiver sits on top of the video distribution switch. Cost was about $100, and no contract. - bob

It's explained in the videos but basically there's a safety recall for when Norcolds exceed 800F they don't burn down the coach. The recall is an add-on mod that shuts the fridge down completely. No codes, no display, no power, no fridge light (1st clue). Not having or by-passing the recall mod could be catastrophic (fire, death, etc). Here's an info sheet with a handy troubleshooting chart - https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/635412E-SB_1200_1210_BoilerLeakCheck.pdf Best, - bob

HA! I went out to turn off the battery operated fan inside the fridge and discovered the fridge was dead as a stone. 😵 Went outside and discovered a red LED lit inside the fridge bay ! 😵😵 After hunting around on the internet for a while I discovered the magnet-reset-Norcold trick. All is well, - bob

There's a company in AR that offers guts replacements (burner, boiling tank, condensor, lines, etc.). They can replace in house or ship for DIY. http://ozarkcoolingunits.com/ They even have a video that makes it look easy. How is your unit failing? Ours (Norcold 1200) performs marginally maintaining 40F on AC but averages 45-50F on propane, and this is springtime weather. I do a lot of gen-free boondocking. Keep us posted! Best, - bob

My HVAC tech buddy told me 30-40 psi on the low side would be good enough. I brought mine up to 10 psi and 58F (20F differential) with Max AC & fan on HI when I checked it for the first time last week. It took 2.5 cans and if it's still 10 psi I'll add a few more cans. The PO told me the dash air didn't work so no telling how long it had been since it had a good charge in it. Of course I have a piercing type valve and now I need a "special" valve for self-sealing cans (flat pin vs sharp pin). As far as evacuating and starting over . . . . As long as air didn't enter the system IMO you'll be ok. Of course, if you have the time and pump that's another story. The bad news is I get a lot of outside air coming in the coach at highway speeds. The old F53 gasser leaked outside air too, but the HR is much worse. Same for cold days. I'd love to be able to find those leaks . . . . Let us know where you find your freon leak. Our HR's back end is over a bunch of rocks and not fun to crawl under. Still chasing lots of other things too, like the back marker lights not working (fronts ok). Yeeesh. Best, - bob

Just a side comment . . . . I've read where Zep Wet Look Floor Polish is the hot ticket to make the finish look showroom new, but if you read the comments (Amazon) the Zep retail technical support rep says it will "whiten, peel, yellow and deteriorate. The Wet-look Floor Polish is not UV resistant and will require stripping to remove". So maybe not the hot ticket after all. Kudos to Zep for giving us the straight scoop at the expense of a few sales. Nice job having your coach professionally done. Yes, we all want to know the cost (even if ballpark). Best, - bob

Too bad we can't fit the electronic torque adapter on the multiplier socket! Thanks for the tip. Looks like the next purchase, which of course I will procrastinate until I need to add air again. If I move this valve stem inward (or 90d), is there an o-ring under the nut? Is it a flare type seal? Best, - bob

I looked at those but was concerned #1 the anchor leg wouldn't fit against an adjacent lug nut and # 2 still need to re-torque. It would make removal MUCH easier! They say they will mark up the aluminum (thin hub cover is under the lug nuts) but maybe can be fixed with a plate. Hard to say without buying one . . . As for re-torquing . . . . a longer breaker bar, or some good pipe! I already have an electronic torque adapter coming. - bob

The saga continues. I was able to install 1 of 4 extenders. Pitiful! One wheel the hub cover tabs line up, but the outer wheel valve stem points into the wheel and the Wheel Master extender just doesn't work unless the valve stem is pointed outwards (or at least not between the wheel). I knew that going in so no surprise. Can the outer valve stem be removed and rotated without destroying the seal / o-ring / whatever? Biggest fear is getting it out and creating another problem. On the other wheel the stems aren't 180 apart and neither line up with the hub cover tabs. Now here's the rub - lug nut socket arrived today when I discovered my 4 ft breaker bar is really 3 ft. *IF* the lug nuts could be loosened with 500 ft lbs that would 170 lbs on the end of that bar. That's 20 lbs more than me! So do I take it to the truck shop or get a bigger breaker bar? I'm not afraid of man-handling the wheel . . . . if it doesn't crush me first! Best, - bob Post Script - All 4 rear valve cores were jammed open when the TPMS sensors were removed. Partially unscrewing the core and re-inserting usually fixes it. One core was physically damaged at the inner tip, and I felt something as I was pulling it out. Balancing bead maybe (and if so the wrong kind). At least all 6 have 90+psi now.

X3! Very sharp! On ours the floors had been re-done like that and there's some scraping from the slide behind the driver's seat. Maybe it's a slide adjustment, maybe something else, but you might look to see if there's any interference before it starts showing up. Best, - bob

I've been battling this also . . . . PO had installed TireMinder TPMS. On the fronts the sensors push the cores into the stems. When removing the sensors to add air (or double check with a gauge) the stems gush out air. New cores don't help, but I can back out the core and screw it back in and it will seal. Set the air, re-install the sensor and repeat next time I need to second guess the TPMS sensor. I'm afraid to check the back wheels because the outer wheel sensor is pointed into the middle of the tire. The only way to access is to crawl under and blindly stick an arm between the tires. The inner tire sensor is the same access problem. If I have to fiddle with either inner or outer valve cores it'll be challenging. So I bought the Wheel Masters 8110A 4 hose set . . . . and discovered the left side inner sensor isn't aligned with the hub cover (mounting tabs are already on the hub cover). And the inner stem isn't 180 degrees from the outer valve stem. That outer wheel will need to be rotated slightly (and hub cover aligned). On the right side everything is aligned. Two different tire guys? *THEN* discovered none of the tire tools from the F53 are compatible. The joys of a new coach! So on the way are the socket (1 5/16), some 3/4" extensions and a 750 ft lb torque adapter (electronic type). I have a 4 ft breaker bar to use on it, but probably won't arrive before next Friday (the next trip). RM R8RR - 500 ft lbs, right? I'm considering the gutentite method. The saga will continue . . . . Best, - bob

OK, my bad. I just looked at some old photos of the Coleman Mach III from the roof of our 02 Fleetwood. R-22 on the plate and compressor. It was built 46th week of 2001. Sorry to waste a lot of bandwidth! - bob

Right, but R-22 is like a 90's refrigerant, right? All my 2000+ vehicles are R-134. Maybe I'm missing something? - b

R22? - b

I would say yes - can be fixed. Ours wasn't working so good so an HVAC friend installed a tap and recharged the freon. If it's a slow leak no problem. If it's a monthly recharge a good tech can locate the leak and repair . . . . or replace at a much higher cost. Best, - bob

On my 03 HR Endeavor that would be the water pump switch, but there's an indicator light next it. The lights might fluctuate with activation of the pump but you'd also hear the pump. Different platform, different year, just what's on mine. - bob

Keep in mind WD-40 is NOT A LUBRICANT. Never was, never will be. If anything I'd try some silicone spray as it won't attract dirt like oil will. Best, - bob (NOT a petroleum engineer)

30% 5-star and 20% 1-star . . . . given the ratings I wouldn't get my hopes up. - bob

Ours leaked at the regulator just rear of the air tank. I could hear it leaking after I crawled under. I could run my fingers near the air leak and hear a change in sound. But yeah . . . . make sure you have good jacks under it. Good luck, - bob

BTW, I found I could look into the high beam (lights off) and see the LED magnified by the lens. By centering my vision on the LED I can determine pitch. On top of the assembly there's a sight glass with a bubble but it's very hard to see. The adjusters are a 4 mm male hex sticking up vertically from the back of the units. One for U/D the other for L/R. - bob

The "wing style" antenna has 12v running through the coax that's turned on with the amplifier switch. There's an amplifier in the antenna. Whether this is directly compatible with the Winegard Air 360+ I don't know. The yellow wire might be for an "antenna raised" sensor? Does it go to the small module on the antenna shaft? - bob

Previous owner replaced ours (2003 HR Endeavor) with units for 2000-2002 Lincoln LS made by TYC through Amazon. They're close but not a direct fit and get a GREAT view up to 50 ft. The TYC's are no longer available but maybe another Taiwan replacement. I just got done shimming the mountings which might get me in range for the adjusters. Not sure when I'll get to try them at night. You want a 2" drop at 25 ft. I've heard late 90's BMW 3 series are the ticket. Another option is a headlight restoration kit. Just be sure to apply a UV sealant to prevent re-yellowing. Because this is a factory fit this would be my personal preference. My LS headlights are just screwed in with alum brackets and sheet metal screws. Best, - bob

I can't comment on your situation but you can pick up owners manuals at https://www.monacocoach.com/rv-owners-manuals And there's a Download tab at the top that has a wealth of information. Wiring diagrams that will make your head explode, Monaco Tech Tips, and so on. Good luck, - bob

I'm in trouble. Now I'll never get anything done. 448 pages. WOW! Thank you, - bob