David Pratt

Monaco never installed the 3M film on the front of any of their production coaches. Although the window sticker said otherwise. The Diamond Shield film is only 0.4mm thick where as the 3M film is 0.8mm thick and is a far better product. Dazzling Details uses only the 3M film and they will come to you to replace the film. It takes them two days to complete the process of removing and installing new film.

Yes, he was. Jeff did his presentation with Chuck Thatcher from Tyron Bands.

You should research Motor Home Tires - ( www.motorhometires.com. ) Jeff Bown is the CEO and they are are very big supporter of the Monacoers Group. He attended and gave a presentation at the 2023 Gathering and he Knows tires. He can get you any brand tire you may want and will come to your location to mount and balance the tires. His prices on tires includes coming to your location, Mounting and balancing the tires. His prices are very competitive and he will do his best to beat any of the other tire purchase programs like FMCA and the like. If Jeff does not have or can not find the tire you want it does not exist. He has access to over 5000 distributors and service centers throughout the country. They are also a Authorized Tyron Band Distributor. Many of our members have purchased tires through Motor Home Tires and have been very happy with the service they have received. Contact info; Jeff Bown, Motor Home Tires; www.motorhometires.com (866)-501-1998 The steer axle tires on our coach aged out in 2021-Michelin 365/70R22.5- and there were none available anywhere I checked and Jeff found me a set and installed them.

Mike, Welcome to the group. I personally want to welcome your knowledge and expertise to our Group. I am one of the four Members who started this group back in 2004. We wanted a Forum that was more technical and to develop a knowledge base of information to share and help other Monaco Brand Owners with issues that come up with owning these beasts. Bill Duckwitz was the Founder of the Monacoers Group along with Fred White, Rex Darley and myself as a Moderator. Bill, Fred and Rex have since passed away and I took on the ownership reins in 2018. I have a great knowledgeable Staff, Scotty Hutto, administrator, moderator and is our web site wiz guy. Frank McElroy, administrator, moderator and Tom Cherry, administrator, moderator that have a wealth of knowledge on the Monaco Brand Coaches. Frank McElroy also maintains our parts list and all the technical data you can access on the forum. There are also many members that have the expertise and knowledge and are always helping our fellow members with their issues. I look forward to your participation and expertise and I'm sure you'll be a great asset to the Members.

I have been involved in several investigations involving Monaco Coaches with the Roadmaster Chassis and a couple of Prevost Coaches. Everyone of the coaches were involved in head-on collisions or rollovers due to a steer tire blow out. The only coach that the house separated from the chassis and disintegrated was a rollover that hit a concrete light pole after it had rolled. The rest of the coaches all had sustained major significant damage to the front and side of the coach but the house remained intact. Two of these coaches were not Monaco welded steel Monocoque house structure, but had the aluminum frame structure which is now the standard on most production coaches manufactured today. Though the house structure on these aluminum framed coaches did not disintegrate they had separated from the chassis. The two Prevost coaches did not fair any better than the welded Monocoque Roadmaster Monaco coaches. Surprisingly, the majority of these accidents the driver and passengers survived A very good way to answer your question would be to visit an RV Salvage Yard and look at the wrecked coaches in their inventory and you will get all your answers. All the Monaco coaches built in Coburg, WA were all built with the steel welded Monocoque house structure. None of the Monaco coaches that were manufactured by REV are aluminum house frames. There is only one manufacturer today that still builds a welded steel Monocoque house structure and that is FORETRAVEL. If I were looking at purchasing a Class A DP today, I would be looking at any of the Monaco Brand coaches that were built in COBURG by Monaco.

Your Exec is equipped with the HWH hydraulic slide outs. The drivers side slide out has mechanical latches only. They are mounted on the each end of the slide outside and as Paul and Chargerman Stated are to lock the top of the slide in when the slide is retracted.. All the rest of the slides do not have manual locks and did not come with them. The HWH slide outs are held in the retracted and extended position with 1300 -1500psi Hydraulic pressure. Per HWH when you extend/retract the slide out there is a hydraulic pressure switch that will open when the slide out reaches its full travel to open the solenoid to keep from over pressurizing the system and when you release the the extend/retract switch the pressure switch closes the solenoid to hold the pressure to lock the slide out in or out. We have members that have an issue of slide out creep which is a common occurrence because in the majority of cases the solenoid pin seat has got contaminated. HWH recommends that when you extend or retract the slides that you hold the switch on for about 10-15 seconds longer after the slide out stops moving to help keep the solenoids clean.

When I am towing the Explorer it charges me for five axles instead of three.

I have the E-Pass and Sun-Pass. The E-Pass is a Transponder that I use in my Explorer and F-150. The Sun-Pass is a decal that is permanently affixed to the windshield in the coach. I keep the E-Pass in the aluminum pouch in the console when towing behind the Coach. I have never had an issue with the Sun-Pass in any of my travels.

The following is from your Owners Manual on Page 218-219: When you follow the Prior to Leveling procedure you are dumping all the air from the suspension in the coach. Your leveling System is Hydraulic and is independent of the chassis air system and does not need the Chassis Air System for the coach to remain level. Follow the Jack Retract procedure on page 220 to return the coach to travel mode. The coach will automatically air up. Prior to Leveling 1. Chassis battery voltage must be at least 12 Volts DC. 2. Park the motor-home on solid, level ground. If the motor-home is parked on an excessive slope, the motor-home must be moved to a solid, level surface before the leveling system is deployed. 3. Apply the park brake. 4. Place the gear selector in Neutral. 5. Lower the air suspension by stepping on the brake several times until system air pressure is below 60 psi. 6. With the ignition on, push and hold the Air Dump switch to lower the suspension. This reduces the amount the jack will need to extend before making contact with the surface. 7. Be sure all people and pets are clear of the motor-home while the leveling system is in operation. Automatic Leveling Procedure: Follow the instructions in Prior to Leveling. 1. Start the engine. The engine must be running for the leveling system to operate. 2.Place the gear selector in Neutral. 3. Apply the park brake. 4.Press the ON/OFF button on control pad. The system is now operational and the electronic leveling lights will become active. 5. Check to see that the ENGAGE PARK BRAKE light is not flashing on the control panel. If ENGAGE PARK BRAKE is flashing engage the park brake. 6. Push the AUTO button to begin leveling. 7. WARNING After starting the automatic leveling cycle it is very important not to move around in the motor-home until the unit is level and the green LCI logo light illuminates in the center of the touch pad. Failure to remain still during the leveling cycle could affect the performance of the leveling system. The green LCI logo light will illuminate when the motor-home is level. If further adjustments are necessary, push and hold the MAN button for approximately 5 seconds until the light under this button is illuminated. 8. Push the appropriate leveling leg button to override the system and the level the motor-home. 9. Turn off the system using on ON/OFF button on the control pad. 10. Turn off the ignition switch. WARNING DO NOT lift all the wheels off the ground to level the motor-home. Lifting all wheels of the ground may result in serious personal injury or death. Jack Retract Procedure: 1. Ensure the park brake is set. 2. The gear selector is in Neutral. 3.The engine must be running. 4.Press the ON/OFF button on control pad to turn the system on. 5.Push the RETRACT ALL JACKS button. All jacks will automatically return to fully retracted position. When all jacks return to full retract position the JACKS DOWN light will go out. 6. Push the ON/OFF button to turn system off

The first most important thing you should do is Consult The Owners Manual for the proper procedure that is recommended in the manual. That will keep you out of trouble. Always consult/review the owners manual First.

As Ivan has stated, you must remove all the cables from all the battery's-House and Chassis including grounds and Positive cables. Disable the Solar Panels and disconnect from shore power-Unplugged. Also as a Safety Measure turn off all the Battery Cut Off switches.

Yes, We are still reconditioning and re-chroming the VelVac and Ramco mirrors. We can re-chrome the bases and arms regardless of condition. We cannot re-chrome the heads because they are plastic, some Ramco mirror heads are metal and we can re-chrome those. The mirrors have to be completely disassembled before you send them to us and send only the parts you want re-chromed. I have VelVac mirror arms and bases that are already completed and will exchange for yours if they are a match. Turn around time is usually 2-3 weeks.

I posted this article back in April. There is a lot of info on Slide Out Creep if one uses the search function. If your coach has four room slide outs and a generator slide out, the hydraulic motor and manifold assembly will have ten solenoids on the manifold attached to the hydraulic motor and tank. The whole assembly is one piece. Each individual slide out has two solenoids, one for retract and one for extend and will be located on the manifold opposite each other. The solenoids are electro-mechanical coils that have a plunger that moves to open when power is applied. When you push the button to extend the slide out, the extend solenoid will open and the hydraulic pump motor runs to provide the pressure to the hydraulic cylinders to extend the slide. The opposite happens when you go to retract the slide out. It is a known practice and recommended by HWH that when you extend or retract the slide outs that you hold the switch in the on position for about 10-20 seconds after the slide out is fully extended or retracted or until the hydraulic motor changes pitch. This practice will keep the seats in the solenoids clean and will help avoid slide out creep. All HWH slide outs are held open and/or closed by hydraulic pressure, about 1300psi. This is the reason each solenoid will have a small nut or a lever located on the rear of the solenoid that is used to release the hydraulic pressure on the hydraulic cylinder to move the slide out in or out if there is a failure with the hydraulic pump or a solenoid. There is also a pressure switch that is mounted in the manifold that closes the solenoid when the cut off pressure is met-(1300psi) when the slide out is fully extended or retracted. If you experience slide out creep -(this is a common problem), the first method to try and correct the problem is to extend and retract the slide out several times using the above practice on extending and retracting the slide outs. If that does not correct the problem that indicates that you have a failed solenoid. It will be very rare to have an internal leak inside a cylinder that will cause Slide Out Creep. If the above method fails to correct the problem and the slide out still creeps out that indicates that the retract solenoid has failed and if it creeps in that indicates that the extend solenoid has failed. The solenoid have "o'rings" that seal the solenoids into the manifold and can fail and leak causing this issue. You can purchase o-ring kits from HWH or most RV parts suppliers. I have attached a diagram of a typical layout of a ten solenoid hydraulic manifold that may help you. HYDRAULIC PUMP MANIFOLD(1).pdfUnavailable

Jim I explained in detail how to adjust the AquaJet 55RV pump in a post dated August 11th IN this thread along with pictures of the installation in my coach. Go back and read it and it should help you solve the issue.. You may call me at 321-427-6909 if you want me to help you and walk you thru it. Let us know how it works out!

To all Our Monaco Friends and Family, Food For Thought; When the Civility on the Forum seems to get a bit out of control I believe it would be a good time for all of us to step back and take a deep breath. In the case of someone posting a Discussion about a certain subject, a Problem they are having with their coach, or even a Maintenance or Repair Issue, whether it be tires, batteries, engine and transmission etc. when posted on this FORUM it will bring about a lot of various discussions based on the Manufacturers Recommendations, owners preferences, owners experiences and Maintenance Repair Shops recommendations. It is not to say that all methods are the right or wrong way of doing any particular maintenance or repairs. What is important is that at least the information is correct, the minimum maintenance/repair or some maintenance repair is being done and the owner is comfortable with the outcome. Let's face it, it is definitely a one size does not fit all scenario, but basically, what works for the individual. Some of the most annoying frustrations are; 1. A member who posts a problem or question without a NAME, YEAR, MAKE and MODEL of COACH. 2. Not using the "SEARCH" function to research the issue to find out if has already been addressed before posting the issue on the Forum. 3. It is very obvious from a majority of post about issues a member is having can be answered by just reading the "OWNERS MANUAL" that comes with the coach along with the Operator Manuals for the different components that are installed in the coach. I appreciate those Members that Monitor the Forum and will ask a member to include this information when they forget to add it to their post. The request should always be done respectfully and courteously. Always Play Nice!!!! The Only Stupid Question is the one that is not asked! I read every post to this forum and everyday learn something new, something better and some things that help me improve the way I already do things. Everyone is entitled to their ideas and opinions and they should be heard. I believe that most members of this forum have the good common sense to know what is right/wrong and reasonable and not Cannon Fodder. We all should refrain from making or taking it Personnel. I cannot see where taking someone to the carpet because their way of obtaining a certain result doesn't fit ours to prove a point. If they are misinformed, then inform and educate them, not criticize them and in so doing we educate ourselves and others, I will usually only post to those things that I know and am familiar with and either I use facts that are true and founded or from my own personnel experiences. Hopefully it will help someone with a similar problem or help in a future situation. As Scotty posted earlier, the moderators and admins have a handle on it. We give posters great latitude to express what they need to, so long as it’s somewhat RV related and is not out of bounds and deal with the issue off the Forum. When it comes to any problem, maintenance or repairs, I have found that is always best to start with what the Manufacturer Recommends, followed up very carefully by what the maintenance/repair facility recommends based on the manufacturer's recommendations. DIY is the least expensive and sometimes the most practical, especially when it is based on the Manufacturers Recommendations. The Manufacturers Recommendations should always be considered the Minimum that should be done to get the best performance and longevity out of any product. When it comes to Maintenance and Safety there is one very basic "TRUISM" and that is "You can pay Now or pay Later" and the latter of that statement is usually the most expensive. The Monacoers Group and this FORUM is the best way to share ideas, offer and obtain help. The Monacoers Forum is a valuable Gateway to a lot of Knowledge from the minds of some very intelligent, remarkable experienced people that are Members of the Monacoers Group. The Monacoers Group has over 3000 Active members and is continually growing. Everyone of our members are a valuable asset to this group and forum. Enjoy it and Benefit from it, I know I do. If that does not work for you, there is always the Delete Key!

96 EVO You will really like the 795. I Purchased the 895 and have been using it for the past ten months. Lots of features including Voice Command, real time weather and traffic. It also has a split screen capability that will show you whole route progress plus the Navigation Route.

There are a lot of aftermarket replacements out there and Monaco may have used them. The ones that Monaco used on the Exec were an aftermarket variant .that replaced the OEM taillights. If all else fails you might try a salvage yard.

The tail lights are from an 03 thru 06 Lincoln Navigator. They are easy to find, just Google them.

Monaco had a known problem of Ignition Switch Failures during the time frame 2003 thru 2006. Before you go spending a lot of time and money trouble shooting your problem replace the Ignition Switch. Remove the Switch and take it yo any Automotive parts house and they can match it up. It is a common Ignition Switch used in most GM vehicles in the 60's and early 70's and inexpensive. The Ignition Switch has probably failed internally. If you do a search you will find several posts already on this topic and a most recent one less than three months ago.

Scotty, my suggestion would be to allow the ADD to be posted with an expiration date. You can set the expiration date at 90 days from the placement of the ADD. If possible, set it up so that the original poster will be notified 5-7 days before the ADD is to expire and also a way to automatically allow him to extend it another 90 days. If the OP does not respond in the 5-7 days after receiving the Notice, the ADD would automatically terminate. If it is possible to set it up this way it will take the burden off you and the other moderators to have to clean it up. Just my thoughts.

if the generator starts and runs when operated by that switch and the bulb does not illuminate then common sense should tell you that the bulb has probably failed. There are other switches though out the coach, ie the dash and bedroom that are identical to the one that is located on the generator.I f those switches start and the generator runs and the light is working, then common sense tells you that the light in the switch on the generator has failed. The bulbs in the Carling Switches prior to 2006-2007 all had Incandescent Wheat Bulbs internally and the Later Carling switches had LED Bulbs Internally. Your first call should be to Cummins Onan and purchase the correct switch or at least get the correct part number for the switch and then use Google or other search engines to locate one. To help you, the Cummins/Onan part number is 308-1038 and can be purchased from Amazon for $15.04.

Just use a compression fitting that matches up to the "Push to Connect" fitting you are replacing

That fitting is a "Push to Connect" fitting. You can purchase them at any automotive parts store, Amazon, Lowes and Home depot. Dump all the air in your coach before messing with it. Then push the airline into the fitting at the same time pushing in the release collar and while you hold the release collar in, pull the airline out of the fitting. Closely inspect the end of the airline where it goes into the fitting and you will see a grove in the line about a 1/4" from the end. Cut the airline at or just above the grove and reinstall the airline and check for a leak. If you are lucky this will fix the leak, if not you will need to replace the fitting. This is a common problem with these "Push to Connect" fittings because as the coach gets older the vibration and other issues cause the airline to move in the fitting and the grove you see is the area where the sealing "O-ring" sets on the line and the vibration causes the "o-ring" to wear a grove into the airline. Cutting the grove out of the line solves most air leaks if the "o-ring" in the fitting has not failed. If it still leaks, replace the fitting. With the airline removed it will screw out of the the airbag. One way to ensure you do not have the same issue happen again is to replace the "Push to Connect" fitting with a "Compression Fitting" and eliminate the problem. Every time i find a leaking "push to Connect" fitting leaking, I will do step one first and if I have to replace the fitting, I will replace it with a compression fitting. The compression fittings are usually less than half the price of the "Push to Connect" fittings.

If the Boiler fluid is cold and the temperature is below the "cut off" temperature of the Control Thermostat and below the AC and DC High Limit Thermostats they all should be all closed. The AquaHot will not start if any of the thermostats are open when the system is cold. Install a jumper wire between the connectors on the AC high limit switch like you did on the control thermostat and it should operate if that is the problem.

Damn, Congratulation on your success, I love it when things come together correctly!