David Pratt

Good Afternoon Everyone. I was on the phone with one of our members and the issue of new tires and what should be done to protect the tires when the coach is parked at a campground or in storage for an extended length of time. This Subject is brought up every year at the Gathering and there is a lot of various discussions on how members address it. I thought that maybe it might be a good time to do a refresher course on what to do. The question was, and I Quote; "Does any one have any concrete (no pun intended) information as to the real value of parking on wood, etc over concrete.I have never thought about it much, but I have read on other Forums all kind of answers and they are all over the map about the best way to take care of the tire when the coach is in storage. But, as a almost new tire owner I want to treat all tires to a good and happy life. Big deal or no big deal?" I dug into my notes and old files from past Gatherings and tire discussions and will share them with you. First of all, regarding the effects of storage: A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is. The following steps have been brought up as recommendations and make good common sense to use when storing your motor coach or any vehicle: 1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to tire rubber compound characteristics. 2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water. 3. Regardless of what kind of surface you park your coach on, place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface. The rubber in our tires can act like a sponge and can possibly absorb water,(known as leaching), when stored without a protective barrier for long periods of time. This will occur more often when the tires are filled with just air. Tires filled with Nitrogen in most conditions will not allow moisture to leach into a tire and can actually push the moisture out of the inside of the tire because the Nitrogen Molecule is heavier than the Air Molecule. 4. If possible cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays if you have to store the coach outdoors. 5. Do not store the coach in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate the oxidation of the rubber. 6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air. 7. When the coach is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 1 to 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operating the coach on the highway. Now, about the effects of time: Rubber compounds slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as the tire ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be: 1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration. 2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage. 3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods are. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone.

Another Product to look into for closing off the holes where the sewer, electric shore power and fresh water hose exit the service bay is a produt called RV-Critter Guard. Easy to use and works great. https://rvcritterguard.com/

I will second Fresh Cab. We have been using it for years and have never had a Varmit Intrusion. Great stuff and like Steve I have installed one bag in each of the bays and replace as per the instructions. Cheap Insurance. If you suspect you have the Varmits in your coach put several bags inside the coach above the ceiling, in the ac ducts and cabinets and within 24 hours they will leave. I have remove a puck lite in the ceiling and put a couple bags in the ceiling as insurance. Fresh Cab Botanical Rodent Repellent can be purchased on Amazon. WalMart for under $15.00 per box. Four bags per box. Fresh Cab Botanical Rodent Repellent.

Tires are a major concern to everyone, whether it be a motor-home, travel trailer, truck, aircraft or even a bike. All of us want to maintain and service our tires to get the most life from them. I am most conscious about proper tire care, tire inflation, heat, load limits, speed ratings to name a few things of importance. Somethings about tire care are very simple and in most cases other things get more difficult because of lack of knowledge or experience. Tire Maintenance and Tire Care is always a Discussion we have at the Gathering. I learned a lot about tires mostly because of my experience in auto racing and maintaining my own aircraft. Tom Cherry and Frank McElroy mentioned Thermal Equilibrium. I would venture to say that most folks have never heard of it, let alone understand it. Thermal Equilibrium is the one most important issue we dealt with in our race cars. It alone can determine how the car handles and tire life/wear. Thermal Equilibrium sounds like it is more heat related but, the air pressure in the tire is what regulates it more unless some outside development was in play, such as overheated brakes, bearings, heat from the sun and road surface temperature. Since I purchased my first Motor Home, my first project was always to weight the coach and establish the correct tire pressures. When TPMS came on the scene it made the job much easier. One of the methods that is always discussed is to have the coach weighed on all corners and establish the maximum axle weights to establish the correct air pressure for each tire on that axle based on the heaviest corner on the axle. Tires should be inflated to the same pressure on that axle with a minor exception. Once I have established the Load factors for each axle and the base line air pressure I will take it to the next step which does take time and some driving. This is where Thermal Equilibrium and how it effects tire performance comes into play. I take the coach out on the highway and at highway speed 60 - 65 MPH I travel one hour and log the tire temps, Then again at 1.5 hours and log the temps again at the 2 hour mark and monitor each hour after that. Under most normal circumstance the one hour mark will be your tire blow up pressure.This is the point where the tire pressure has achieved Thermal Equilibrium. At this point forward your tire pressures should be stable with little change. That one hour tire pressure(blow up pressure) will be different depending on what air you use to fill your tires. The blow up pressure will be higher if you fill your tires with just air and will be lower if you fill and maintain your tires with Nitrogen. The ideal Blow Up pressure should be no more than +/- 20% max. The second step is to lower the tire pressures in each tire 2-3psi below the baseline tire pressure in step one and take it on the highway again repeating the first step and logging the temps. The third step is to repeat the first step again but raise the tire pressure 2-3psi above the baseline tire pressure in step one. Compare the one hour blow up pressures. If the blow up pressure is higher in step two it indicates a low base line temp. In step 3 If the pressure is lower that would indicate to much pressure. If your using Nitrogen to keep your tires inflated your average blow up pressure will be 12-14% above your base line pressure. If you fill you tires with just air the blow up pressure will be 14-20% higher than you base line pressure. Raise or lower the baseline tire pressure to where your blow up pressure is is with in the percentages and stays stable for the duration of your trip. An Example; My baseline pressure in my Steer Tires is 115psi and the blow up pressure stabilizes at 128psi. Drive Axle tires baseline pressure are105psi and the blow up pressure is 118psi. The tag axle tires baseline pressures are 95psi and blow up pressures are 107psi. these pressures are consistent whether I am on the road two or five hours. As noted in prior posts about the inner drive axle tires having a higher pressure than the outer drive axle tires this is not uncommon, there is a lot of heat generated by the engine and transmission being funneled through that area. but a 30% jump above the base line pressure is and indication something else is going on. When I was doing the tire pressure tests I saw that the inner drive axle tires blow up pressure would be 3-4psi higher than the outside tires. So I started to adjust the inner baseline pressure down until the inner tires would be at the same blowup pressure. My base line pressure on the drive axle tires are; L/Outer-105psi, L/Inner-103psi, R/Inner-102psi, R/Outer-105psi. One hour Blow up pressure is stable at 118psi. All the tires on my coach are filled and maintained with Nitrogen. My TPMS also measures heat. I very rarely pay any attention to it. Your tire psi will warn you of a problem with the tire long before the temperature will. With the race cars the only time we are concerned with the tire temps is when we changed the tires in the pits. We would measure the temps across the tires along with the tread depth. The tires temps would tell us how the tire was contacting the track surface(GRIP) and if we need to make any alignment/suspension adjustments.

I want to dedicate this to all our members who have lost their Fur Babies. A Letter from the Rainbow Bridge Hi, Mom, Dad, Now that I’ve crossed The Rainbow Bridge, they said I should write a letter home. Sorry, Mom, Dad but I have been so busy ‘across the bridge’ that I haven’t thought of home much. They said it’s okay and that you would understand. I hope you do. (I think you will.) Remember that last day when I wasn’t feeling very well, having a hard time breathing and you were all crying? I don’t remember much, but I do remember seeing and hearing all of you and feeling your touches and hugs…I remember hearing “we love you” and that one last command of “Goodbye, Rest in Peace”. I didn’t know what you meant, so I turned around and walked through the fog that was in front of me. I saw the biggest bridge I’ve ever seen! And so many friends on the other side of it! They were all playing with toys and balls! My feet kept moving forward, but my heart kept pulling me back. Your touches became lighter and lighter and I wanted to come back and nudge your hands for more love, but I was overcome by this feeling of curiosity for the happy place over the bridge! My feet started moving on their own, like a gentle breeze was moving them forward for me! I can’t explain it, but I had no doubt that it was the right thing to do! So, I walked across that big, huge bridge by myself! I looked for you, because you were always by my side, walking with me, but this was different. I didn’t have a collar around my neck or a leash connecting me to you ~ I was ‘free’! Even though you weren’t there with me, I never felt alone! I actually felt like I had a huge cape of love wrapped around my body and the more I walked, the easier it was to breathe! So, I kept walking! I could feel more warmth from those big hugs, so I kept on walking! I eventually made it over the big bridge – I did it by myself. When I got here, all of my new friends greeted me and helped me walk off the bridge ~ it was so cool! They gave me a pair of wings and said that I was now a Guardian Angel! What I’ve learned over these past days has been amazing and nothing like I’ve seen before! We’re all the same up here ~ we all have wings and we all have Forever People to watch over ~ that’s YOU, Mom, Dad! You’re my Forever People and I’m your Forever Dog! We had such a great life together and I do miss you both a LOT, but please know that I am happy in my new home across The Bridge! I will send you another Earth Angel one day so you won’t be alone. Give them your whole heart, like you gave it to me. I’ll check in every so often to make sure they treasure your love ~ I always did! When you miss me, think of a rainbow and know I’m on the other side of it, waiting to walk with you again. I’ll always be in your heart. I love you both very much! Time for me to go play...Bella

So, Sorry for your loss. I truly feel your pain. We lost both of our Fur babies. RJ our Pomeranian left us over two years ago and Bella just a few months ago. They both loved traveling with us and and we miss them every day. RJ was just over 16 and Bella passed away on her 16th Birthday. We did fill the hole left to us when RJ passed. While she doesn’t replaced our lost loves, CoCo is a joy to be with. I miss Bella a lot more than I thought I would, It is never easy when you lose one of our family members. Bella and RJ were best Buds, We miss them both so much.

Paul, All this is documented on the Wandering Thread on IRV2, but here is the backstory. When Van started to pursue a fix for the Wandering issue on the Road Master Chassis his primary Focus was on Non Tag Axle Coaches. Van and I had several discussions on installing the Watts Link and the Rear Crossbars on a Tag Axle Coach. My 05 Exec, I thought handled very well and Van and I agreed that it probably was the addition of the tag axle that made the coach more stable. At first I did not believe the addition of the Watts Link or the Cross Bars would Improve the Handling or make it more stable. Van was persistent and his Engineering Curiosity needed answers. I decided to use my coach as the guinea pig. Van manufactured the Watts Link and Rear Cross bars for the Exec. We decided to install the Watts Link first and test it and then do the Rear Cross bars. Well to my surprise The Watts Link made a huge improvement in the handling of my "I thought", good handling coach. What little Wandering the had prior to installing the Watts Link was gone. We took a 1200 mile trip around the South East after installing the Watts Link and I was amazed at how much more comfortable the coach was to drive. I also had the Blue Ox Tru-Center Stabilizer installed on the coach, which enabled me to change the steering center for winds and roads. The Watts Link actually enhanced the performance of the True Center Stabilizer. The only negative I felt was that I could still feel the aerodynamic push from the air off a passing Semi. It was much less after the Watts Link Installation but I could still feel it. After We got back form the trip I wanted to install the rear cross bars. Van at first did not think they would make much of a differance on a tag axle coach, but what did I have to lose. After the installation of the Rear Cross Bars, we went on another 600 mile trip and the coach rode like it was on a set of rails. No more push from an approaching Semi, in fact I would not know a Semi was passing me unless I saw it in my mirror or when it passed. So, to answer your question, If you do not have the Watts Link get it. It is a worth every penny.You will be very surprised how much better your coach will handle and a lot more comfortable to drive. Van and his Engineering Curiosity made a believer out of me and I am very grateful he convinced me to install the Watts Link.

My first Viper was a 1992 Gen 1, serial number 038. I attached a picture when I took Delivery of it from Chrysler. I also had Gen 2 1997. I always liked the Roadsters over the Coupes. The Viper is a powerful automobile and not for the faint at heart. To an unskilled driver it can get away from you quickly under acceleration and your day will be ruined. Out on the Road with the top down, it doesn't get any better than that.

When you speak to Mike Hughes he will be able to supply you with the correct parts that you will need to reinstall the bellcrank.properly. You will need the Bronze bushing and Nylon washer that the bolt goes through to mount the bellcrank. My email address is viperrrr@msn.com. I am on my third and last Viper. Generation III 600HP.

Vipeboy 2000 My 05 Exec was the guinea pig for the first watts link to be installed on a Tag Axle Coach. I did all the drawings and specs and sent them to Van. Van built the system. I installed the system myself. The center pivot bolt coming loose happened to me also. When I replaced the Bolt I installed a bolt that was 1/2 inch longer and put a doubled nutted the bolt. No problems after that. I am attaching the Auto Cad Drawings of the Bellcrank Installation and also the parts list for the Watts Link System. Contact me if you need any further help or have any other questions. Cell phone is 321-427-6909. Also, just curious as per your handle, do you own a Viper??? atts Link Installation.pdf Bellcrank Drawing.pdf Bellcrank Mounting Plate.pdf Watts Link Materials.pdf Watts Link Pivot Installation Side view.pdf Watts Link Pivot Installation Top view.pdf

The previous owner installed the Watts Link to correct the wandering of the Roadmaster chassis. It is not broken, what has happened is the Bolt loosened and dropped allowing the bushing in the center of the bell crank to fall out. Contact Mike Hughes at monacowatts.com and tell him you need the hardware to re-attach the Bell crank to the center bracket. The center bracket is the plate that is horizontal and welded to the to vertical braces for the generator and has the bolt hole in the center. Maybe Van Will will chime in as he was the designer of the Watts Link.

The question about a schematic for the plumbing on the various Monaco Coaches has been asked many times. Unfortunately Monaco and most of the manufacturers do not supply any plumbing schematics for the coaches. It can become a real pain in the butt sometimes when trying to trouble shoot a fresh water or plumbing issue and trying to understand the routing, components and location and the order the manufacturers use to get water from the shore line an/or the water pump to the faucets. and toilets. I was very surprised that Foretravel actually does supply a Plumbing fresh water, Black/Grey water and Manabloc Schematic. for the ih-45 I was trying to help Scotty with an issue he is having with his fresh water system I thought the Schematics would be great to share to the group. Basically this Schematic is the basics of the plumbing in all our coaches. other than the addition of options like auto fill and auto dump the basics are all the same. I am going to post the plumbing and Manabloc Schematics and hopefully it will help to understand the plumbing in our coaches.

Joe, if your Signature has four room slide outs and a generator slide out, the hydraulic motor and manifold assembly will have ten solenoids on the manifold attached to the hydraulic motor and tank. The whole assembly is one piece. Each individual slide out has two solenoids, one for retract and one for extend and will be located on the manifold opposite each other. The solenoids are electro-mechanical coils that have a plunger that moves to open when power is applied. When you push the button to extend the slide out, the extend solenoid will open and the hydraulic pump motor runs to provide the pressure to the hydraulic cylinders to extend the slide. The opposite happens when you go to retract the slide out. It is a known practice and recommended by HWH that when you extend or retract the slide outs that you hold the switch in the on position for about 10-20 seconds after the slide out is fully extended or retracted or until the hydraulic motor changes pitch. This practice will keep the seats in the solenoids clean and will help avoid slide out creep. All HWH slide outs are held open and/or closed by hydraulic pressure, about 1300psi. This is the reason each solenoid will have a small nut or a lever located on the rear of the solenoid that is used to release the hydraulic pressure on the hydraulic cylinder to move the slide out in or out if there is a failure with the hydraulic pump or a solenoid. There is also a pressure switch that is mounted in the manifold that closes the solenoid when the cut off pressure is met-(1300psi) when the slide out is fully extended or retracted. If you experience slide out creep -(this is a common problem), the first method to try and correct the problem is to extend and retract the slide out several times using the above practice on extending and retracting the slide outs. If that does not correct the problem that indicates that you have a failed solenoid. If the above method fails to correct the problem and the slide out still creeps out that indicates the the retract solenoid has failed and if it creeps in that indicates that the extend solenoid has failed. The solenoid have "o'rings" that seal the solenoids into the manifold and can fail and leak causing this issue. You can purchase o-ring kits from HWH or most RV parts suppliers. I have attached a diagram of a typical layout of a ten solenoid hydraulic manifold that may help you. HYDRAULIC PUMP MANIFOLD(1).pdf

The Hydraulic Pump, manifold and solenoids may be mounted under you entry step. Also, your owners manual should indicate the location. Every model may have had a different location.

Yes. All of the HWH Hydraulic Slide outs and Jacks use the same solenoids. The new part numbers are interchangeable with the old ones.

There are two solenoids available from HWH. RAP39015 is a large diameter solenoid is no longer available from HWH and was replaced by RAP0642. The RAP0642 solenoid is the large diameter solenoid-2.25" diameter and Solenoid RAP90729 is the small diameter one 1.5" diameter. Solenoid RAP90729 has been replaced by Solenoid RAP42632. RAP90729 has a nut to release hydraulic pressure and RAP42632 has a white lever. They are interchangeable. The correct solenoid for your coach is RAP42632, the small diameter solenoid and it will have a white pressure release lever instead of a nut to release the hydraulic pressure. The older solenoids all had the nuts to release the hydraulic pressure and HWH superseded them to the new solenoids with the levers. All the solenoids are interchangeable. The RAP90729 Solenoid is still available thru the Internet. Just Google HWH and the part number on either solenoid and you will find many new solenoids for sale.

On my 05 Exec I had Michelin 315R80x22.5 and the TYRON BANDS and also the 12oz Dynabeads in the steer tires and Dynabeads in all the rear tires. I never had any issues with the Dynabeads and TYRON BANDS in the 13 years we owned the coach. The new owner of the Exec still has that combination and has never had any issues either. My Foretravel ih-45, had Dynabeads and TYRON BANDS also in the steers. All the other tire just the Dynabeads. In February, I replaced the steer tires and decided to try the Balance Masters instead of the Dynabeads. I had no Balance issues with the Dynabeads and still have no balance issues with the Balance Masters. I still have the Dynabeads in all the rear tires and the coach rides just as smooth and vibration free as before. I cannot speak for the Centramatics, but they work on the same principal as the Balance Masters and other members have posted that the Centramatics perform the same. Just my opinion, but I would definitely stay away from the external balance weights if possible.

When a member posts a question about purchasing a product and wanting the groups experience about a that product, any member responding should post about their experience and recommendation about the particular product they are using and refrain from comparisons on the other products available for the same purpose unless the member has personal experience with those products. There are many manufacturers that produce different products to balance tires on an RV and all of them can do the job. Maybe one product can/will outperform another and that is where personal experience is valuable in reviewing/recommending an individual product to other members. What ever the cost of that product is not the most important, what is, does it perform as advertised and do those with the experience of using the product confirm it does. Having the many choices that we have to be able to purchase different products that do a certain job can fit the wallet and needs of the RV owner. We all try to purchase a product that works as advertised and will pay what we are comfortable with. Our Safety and Comfort is the most important consideration in operating these monsters. WE, as individuals have to determine as what we want to spend for that result. With over thirty years of RV'ing experience I know what works for me on my coach and I will spend what I am comfortable with an can afford. I will post my recommendations based on my research and experience. I will suggest new products that works for me, but everyone should do there research and due diligence before making a purchase of any product. I have been an avid fan of DYNABEADS for and still recommend them for balancing the tires. The other balancing bead products that claim to perform as well do not based on the personal experience of other members who have used them. Centra-matics and the Balance Masters are also a good choice and perform as advertised and many members that have them installed on their coaches have had great success with them. They are a good alternative to the Balance Beads, but are more expensive. Last month I replaced mt Steer Tires on my coach and decided to try the Balance Masters and I am not disappointed. My steer tires are 365R60x22.5. I still have the Dynabeads installed in the drive and tag tires. I appreciate all the contributions by the members of this group. The depth of our knowledge base sometimes is overwhelming.

I believe this long post on this coach has run its course to the conclusion that it was totaled, sold and now has a new owner. I agree with Tom and a Title Change would be appropriate.. the suggested Title of; "2009 Signature Restoration - Kongsberg CCM " could work and would hopefully cover most search's for those that would be interested in the progress of the restoration of this coach. I would like to see the post stay on Topic about the progress of the repairs and not go back to re-hashing allthe issue in the prior posts.. Whatever the collective minds decide is ok with me!

I got involved with the Kongsberg System back in 2014 when a good friend purchased an 08 Beaver Marquis with the System. The coach had several issues with the chassis electronics and most could not be resolved. He lost all the smart wheel functions, no headlights and no wipers. I was able after many hours labor do a work around and got them working again. You could not turn the Aquahot off using any of the switches and the only way to shut it down was to remove the fuses. Never did find the issue that was causing the problem. With the headlight switch turned off all of the clearance lights stayed on very dim. You only would notice them at night, but we were not able to find the cause. The coach had ABS/ATC issues that were intermittent. There were many small issues with the System that were never resolved. The Straw that broke the Camels Back was when the CAT C-15 Engine ate an injector and destroyed the engine. After eight months the engine was repaired thanks to his extended warranty and he sold the coach. I pity the individual who owns it now.

Gary and Joyce; I am so sorry to hear of your loss. I know it hurts in the deepest way. Losing a pet member of the family is the most difficult, but she crossed over the Rainbow Bridge and is in no more pain and healthy again. You gave her a great life and the pain of losing her will lessen, but the memories will be there forever We lost our little girl Bella last Friday. She had just turned 16. She was healthy other than she had a collapsing trachea, which is common among Yorky's. It was getting harder for her to breath and she would have eventually suffocated. I know we did what was best for her and let her go. I wrote this letter as if it was sent to us from our precious Bella. I hope the following letter will help you and Joyce thru this tough time; Hi, Mom, Dad, Now that I’ve crossed The Rainbow Bridge, they said I should write a letter home. Sorry, Mom, Dad but I have been so busy ‘across the bridge’ that I haven’t thought of home much. They said it’s okay and that you would understand. I hope you do. (I think you will.) Remember that last day when I wasn’t feeling very well, having a hard time breathing and you were all crying? I don’t remember much, but I do remember seeing and hearing all of you and feeling your touches and hugs…I remember hearing “we love you” and that one last command of “Goodbye, Go and Rest in Peace”. I didn’t know what you meant, so I turned around and walked through the fog that was in front of me. I saw the biggest bridge I’ve ever seen! And so many friends on the other side of it! They were all playing with toys and balls! My feet kept moving forward, but my heart kept pulling me back. Your touches became lighter and lighter and I wanted to come back and nudge your hands for more love one more time, but I was overcome by this feeling of curiosity for the happy place over the bridge! My feet started moving on their own, like a gentle breeze was moving them forward for me! I can’t explain it, but I had no doubt that it was the right thing to do! So, I walked across that big, huge bridge by myself! I looked for you, because you were always by my side, walking with me, but this was different. I didn’t have a collar around my neck or a leash connecting me to you, I was ‘free’! Even though you weren’t there with me, I never felt alone! I actually felt like I had a huge cape of love wrapped around my body and the more I walked, the easier it was to breathe! So, I kept walking! I could feel more warmth from all those big hugs, so I kept on walking! I eventually made it over the big bridge. I did it by myself. When I got here, all of my new friends greeted me and helped me walk off the bridge, it was so cool! They gave me a pair of wings and said that I was now a Guardian Angel! What I’ve learned over these past days has been amazing and nothing like I’ve seen before! We’re all the same up here, we all have wings and we all have Forever People to watch over,- that’s YOU, Mom, Dad! You are my Forever People and I am your Forever Dog! We had such a great life together and I do miss you both a LOT, but please know that I am happy in my new home across The Bridge! I will send you another Earth Angel one day so you won’t be alone. Give them your whole heart, like you gave it to me. I’ll check in every so often to make sure they treasure your love ~ I always did! When you miss me, think of a rainbow and know I’m on the other side of it, waiting to walk with you again. I’ll always be in your heart. I love you both very much! Time for me to go play......Love you Both, Bella

At first I thought that that the post was a late April Fools Joke. Maybe the OP has a death wish or is suicidal.💀

Kevin, You posted; "I'd love to do a electronically controlled Air suspension so that I can vary the ride height as it's driving. Drop the suspension height as you pick up speed, for that road hugging handling and improved aerodynamics. Also would be nice to have an "off-road" button that lifts it up a bit for getting into camp sites. The solenoids are already there for the air leveling, so it's just some sensors and programming." You would be re-inventing the wheel. HWH does all the above with the ACTIVE AIR System. My Foretravel ih-45 has the Active Air System and does all the above in your post except it will not adjust the ride height up or down automatically, but I have the ability to raise it or lower the coach manually on the fly as needed. It also automatically adjusst the steering input for crosswind and other highway issues. I can monitor the air pressure in each air bag and monitor the movement of air pressure to and from the bags. It makes all these adjustments in Milli-seconds. The HWH Active Air system has been around for several years and is installed in most of the higher end coaches. HWH can retro-fit any air ride coach with the Active Air System. Silver Leaf also has a complete Chassis MUX system that can be retro-fitted to any coach and can replace the Kongsburg Junk. All you need is $$$$$$.

Those are called Air Tank/Drain Cocks. They are manufactured by Haldex and the part number is MBI 12110. Napa Auto parts sells them for $17.49 each.

M.J. You can call anytime that it is convenient for you.