David Pratt

Bill D will never be forgotten, his knowledge, insights and common sense approach to problems was what made this group special. When I joined this group in 2004 this issue was a huge discussion on this Forum and Bill D was very adamant to everyone in his replies to never run your fuel down to less than a half a tank and always use the major trucks stops for fuel to avoid getting bad fuel.

Depending on the model and some optional accessories, (which were very few), the Baroness listed at $456,400.00 MSRP, the Colonel and the Victorian listed at $450,800.00 MSRP. I did three years of research to find a replacement coach for our 2005 Executive. We narrowed the search down to three. The ENTEGRA Cornerstone, the NEWMAR Kingaire and the FORETRAVEL ih-45. We went to each Manufacturers Factory to help in making our decision. The Entegra came close as far as quality, but was short on options that I had in The EXEC. The Kingaire came closer to the options I had in the EXEC, but the QUALITY was not present. The FORETRAVEL met all the criteria and checked off all the boxes. Came with a two year Factory Warranty. The quality is excellent, all the equipment and components are high end and what you would expect to see in an Expensive Conversion. The Customer service and support is Excellent. We have put over 50,000 miles on the coach since purchase and have not been disappointed yet. No major issues other than a couple operator errors. One of the better decisions we have made!

To get the correct and more accurate capacity of your fuel tank use the following formula. Multiply the Height in inches minus 3/8" X Width in inches minus 3/8" X Length in inches minus 3/8" and then divide the total by 231. When you measure the height of the tank measure from the bottom of where the filler pipe enters the tank or at the top of the filler tube if you can get that much fuel in the tank. The reason to subtract the 3/8" from each total is to adjust for the wall thickness of the tank This will give you the the INTERNAL CAPACITY of your fuel tank.

The Dynasty, Exec, Sig, Navigator and like models built in Coburg Used a Latching Relay that is activated and de-activated by the sales man switch. That is the reason they hardly ever fail. They are not a continuous duty solenoid as installed in the Coaches that were built in Elkhart.

Here is some food for thought in this discussion; In 2010 a very good friend of mine who owned a 2004 Signature had a left front tire blow out. The tire was a Junkyear GY670. he was heading East bound on I-26 in S. Carolina. He crossed the medium and the West bound lanes. He hit a vehicle heading west on I-26 and the driver was killed. The Signature was totaled. His toad was a Lincoln Pick Up Truck and he did not believe in an Auxiliary Brake System. During the accident the PU climbed up the back of the coach and was heavily damaged. He was not issued any Citation for the accident because it was the tire blowout that caused it, but during the Investigation the SC HWY Patrol issued him a Citation for Faulty Equipment because he had no Auxiliary Brake System or Breakaway Switch/Cable on the Toad. South Carolina Law and Florida Law Requires both on anything being toad that is over 3000 lbs. To make matters worse his Insurance Company refused to pay the Claim to fix the Lincoln PU because they claimed he violated the law and the missing Safety Equipment Contributed to the accident. The insurance company only paid 80% of the value of the coach and he lost the personnel Lawsuit the family of the deceased individual filed against him. There is a lot more to this but this is the Readers Digest version. It took over four years to settle the lawsuit. So, all I can say is in the Litigious Society we live in and if you think you are with in the Law taken these kind of Risks with you, your family and the public you might want to think twice. An Auxiliary Brake System and Breakaway Switch for the cost of maybe a thousand dollars might have saved him Millions as the jury agreed that the lack of the Safety Equipment Contributed to the Accident.

You got a very good deal, almost. BUT, I need to make sure all the members on this Group/Forum Understand that if you are purchasing a set of TYRON BANDS that are very cheap from any source, you should verify that they are a Certified TYRON BAND DEALER and INSTALLER, If the bands are purchased from a non-certified Dealer and not installed by that Dealer the TYRON BAND Warranty/Support is VOID. To verify that the company selling and installing the bands is certified, call TYRON USA "813-620-0364" and ask for Chuck Thatcher and he can verify whether a company is certified or not. TYRON USA pulled Buddy Gregg Certification several years ago and Buddy Gregg is not a certified dealer any longer. They have been selling their old stock of bands at discount prices to get them out of his stock. Call TYRON USA to order the emergency kit.

It helps everyone if the OP includes all the correct info about the component that they are having an issue with, which is a requirement on this Forum, IE., year, manufacturer, model of the Coach and the manufacturer/model of the component they are having an issue with and are requesting help for. Then those of us on the Forum with the knowledge, expertise about that component or issue can help without shooting from the hip as is done in so many of the posts. If the OP does not take the time to provide this information you are going to get a lot bad and costly information and it will take up a lot of unnecessary and valuable band width. I read and follow every post everyday and many times the OP is asked what the component is and is totally ignored. The Carefree and the Girard Patio awnings operate pretty much on the same principal and are similar in design. neither awning has a spring installed to help it retract, the motor has to do all the work It takes less power from the motor to Extend the Awning than it does to Retract the Awning. when it retracts the awning the mechanisms that help extend the awning are working against the motor, so if the motor is struggling to retract the awning, either there is a current deficiency or the motor is failing. Maintenance is another major issue and if all of the moving components are not cleaned and lubricated at least Annually they will over time get dirty and corrosion will build up causing them to bind up when the awning is extended or retracted. Their have been countless posts and information on awnings on this Form and if you do a search you can find and follow most of them. Also Chris Throgmartin, who owns Talon and Stonevos is the go to guy with any awning issues. His company's are also Certified and Approved dealers for Carefree, Girard, Dometic and ZipDee awning and parts.

I would suggest that you may want to acquire another set of gauges just to confirm the gauges you are using are working properly and accurate.

OK, so your brake lights work when you depress the brake pedal is depressed means the brake light pressure switch is functioning correctly. The brake light switch will be N/O in the rested state and will be closed when the brake pedal is depressed. The other pressure switch is your cruise control disconnect switch and should be N/C when in the rested state and will go to open when you depress the brake pedal. Just use a VOM to check either switch to determine which switch has failed. If both switches pass and are functioning normally then you have another issue. Another check to do is to starter the engine and turn the cruise control on and hit set to raise the idle. The engine will idle up if the cancel pressure switch is good.

You left out the cost of the new system in your remarks. If you have to have the old system removed from your old TOAD and installed in your New Toad,the cost at the current labor rate is what I quoted in my post. So if you were able to get your NEW System installed in your new Toad for the discount labor price of $600 in 2019 to have your new M&G System installed you have to add in the cost of the new system. You are not comparing Oranges to Oranges. There is no new info that supports the original post so I am asking that this thread be closed.

Everyone has their own opinions and personal preferences on what Auxiliary Brake System they want to purchase and use in their toad. Everyone's opinion and reviews are welcomed so everyone gets educated on the different systems that are available, how they work, how they must be installed and make their own decision's from the info that is posted. Anyone who is going to purchase a Aux Braking System should do a thorough research of any product and be able to make a purchase of a system they are comfortable with using. This FORUM is not a Debate Forum, but a place to get and share info and get help when needed. If you use an AFO, M&G, ROADMASTER, RVi or any other system that is your personnel preference. Share you experience with what ever System you have with the group and let them decide. I will not advocate which system is any better than another, that is up to the individual who will ultimately purchase a system based on their own preference. It does not matter what system you have installed in your toad, just have one and be safe.

There is no Way that the M&G Aux Brake System is easier to use than the RVi2 or 3 Aux Brake System. Every one has a different opinion about what, why and how they use the Aux Brake System they select to install in their toad and unless you have tried them all it would be very difficult to ascertain which is the best or easier other than the reviews posted by others. The M&G system may be just as simple after it has been permanently installed. I have used four Aux Brake Systems in my Coaches and M&G being one of them and from experience it is not any easier than the RVi system. The M&G System has to be installed permanently in your Toad and the going Labor rate is between $1200 to $1600 bucks and you cannot move it to enother vehicle without removing and installing it from one vehicle to another. To Move the M&G system from One vehicle to another will cost you about $2300 to $2500 bucks. Nothing wrong with this method if you like to spend your money. The M&G system is a good system if you want a permanent system. The RVi 3 System is Small,Light and portable and can be moved from one vehicle to another and can be set up in less than three minutes. Just like all Aux Brake Systems you will have to have a Emergency Break Away installed in each vehicle. It is a very good system if you trade up every few years.

I have attached the Monaco Windshield Wiper Parts list for to 05 Exec and Signature which may be the same for the 04 Signature. Windshield Wiper Assy. (old).pdf

The discussion on AC Drier and Expansion Valve is about the Dash AC in the coach not the Roof AC units. But you are correct on your info on the temp inside and outside. There almost is no way to put a duct thermometer in the input side of the evaporator on a dash AC. Just measuring outflow temp at the duct will help monitor the system. Also, while traveling and running the roof AC's will help tremendously to lower the temps of the dash outflow temps. I will run at least two of the four roof AC units while traveling, normally the front and rear unit set at 75 Degrees F and it keeps the coach very comfortable and the Genny gets its proper exercise.

The Pressure Switch on the old R12 Systems were just a single low pressure switch to cut the power to the compressor if the low side of the system got to low to protect the compressor. With the introduction and use of R134 in 1994 the manufacturers used to different pressure switches depending on the make up of the system. One pressure switch is called a Binary Switch and has a Low and High pressure cut out and can be identified with only two wires coming out of the switch. The other switch is called a Trinary Switch and has a Low and High pressure cut out and a third feature to turn the Condenser Fan on/off when the compressor is operating and can be identified with three wires exiting the switch. The Binary Switch is the most commonly used switch in our motor homes when the condenser is mounted adjacent to the Radiator. If the condenser has an electric fan it may have a Trinary switch instead. Using a scale is the correct method to weigh the proper amount of Freon that is added to a completely Empty, Evacuated System. If all the components of the system are working properly this will give you the correct Low and High Pressure readings with the gauges and the outlet temperatures exiting from the Dash Vents.. Those pressure readings and temperatures are then the Bench Mark for properly maintaining the correct levels of Freon in the system. When the system starts to get low on Freon, the Temperature exiting the Dash vents will start rising, the low pressure side of the system will get lower and the high side of the system will rise. The only correct way to properly add Freon to the system then is to use the gauges to add only the amount of Freon to bring the pressures and temps back into the proper range. The Dash A/C System is probably the most neglected system in our coaches. The pressures should be checked at least annually and the Dash Vent Outlet temperature checked more often, especially if the coach sits idle for any length of time. A rising Temperature at the Dash Vents is the earliest sign that the system is getting low on Freon. The Dash A/C system does not like to sit as seals and hoses have a tendency to start leaking with age.

If you have an older RM GPS you may have to purchase a new larger SD Card. The older GPS only had a 4GB card and you will need to purchase the Rand McNally 8GB card for the newest update.

You might want to think about replacing them with motion detection switches. Go to; Super Bright LEDs, Inc. 314-972-6200 Switch Part Number is; LPIR-6A: Mini PIR switch

I just updated the Rand McNally GPS in our Foretravel. Do as Gary suggested and go to www.randmcnally.com/dock and follow the instructions. The following is the information on the company that bought Rand McNally; You may want to contact them if you have any further issues. River Park, Inc. 21953 PROTECTA DRIVE ELKHART, IN 46516 574-522-7781

I have been using the RVi brake system for over ten years. Easy to install and use and can be used in multiple vehicles.

Lee I had the exact problem with my 05 Executive and was able to identify the problem and fix it without spending a bunch of money on needless parts. The fix is simple, I did a complete write up on it on the old Yahoo Monacoers Forum. I do not know if it ever get moved over to this site when we changed over. The cause of the problem is; The Pivot that the Wiper Arm is mounted on is made of hardened steel and has splines machined into the beveled surface. The Wiper Arm is made of a soft casting, (Aluminum or Pot Metal). When the Wiper Arm is installed on the Pivot and tightened the splines on the pivot will cut into the soft metal of the arm and hold it in place. Over time the Wiper Arm can loosen enough that splines on the Pivot strip the splines in the soft metal material in the arm mount and cause the Pivot to rotate inside the arm base. The simple easy fix is to remove the Wiper Arm Assembly and take a Stainless Steel Brush and clean the soft metal out of the splines on the Pivot. Also clean up the inside of the Wiper Arm mount of any loose metal. Re-install the arm and tighten. Install an internal star lock washer between the nut and the arm base and Torque to 40-45 ft/lbs. You may want to add to your annual check list to check the Torque of the Wiper Pivot Nuts.

Steve Are you sure that the A/C condenser is located in front of the side Radiator on your coach. On most 05-07 RR10RS Chassis Coaches, the Condenser was located under the coach behind the Generator and had an Electric fan attached to the front of it that ran when the compressor was running. I am not sure where the Condenser fan was located on the early Dynasty's. If my memory serves me right I know the condenser was installed in front of the radiator, outside on the lower side around 08. You need to operate the A/C System until all the pressures stabilize and measure the Temperature at the Center Vents with the System in re-circulate and fan on high. With the OAT between 75-80 degree's the outlet temp at the vent should be in the low to mid 40's when the pressures have stabilized. At that OAT your Low side Temp of 32psi is in the normal range, but your high side should be in the 175-225 psi range and the vent temperature at the dash in the 40's If you had a blockage in the system both the low and high side pressures would be high not just the high side. The Pressure Switch will cut the Compressor off when the High Side Pressure reaches around 398psi and will turn the Compressor back on when the pressure bleeds off to around 310psi. All the information you have posted indicates you may not be getting enough airflow over the condenser which will cause the High Pressure reading on the High Side. You need to confirm all the above to be able to further diagnose what is going on. You need to let the A/C System run until all the pressure's stabilize and until the compressor shuts down and see what your maximum pressures are and the vent temperature is.

That hose appears to be a #6 A/C hose which would be the high pressure side of the system. I would doubt that dent would cause your problem. You should put a set of gauges on the system so you can see what the high and low side pressures are when the A/C is running, That will tell you more than trying to guess what is going on. Another check you should do is to make sure the Condenser Fan is running when the Compressor is running. The A/C system is set up so that when ever the Compressor is running the Condenser Fan will be running. If the Condenser Fan is not running when the Compressor is running then the pressure on the high side will rise above the high pressure cutoff point of the pressure switch and shut the Compressor off. When the pressure bleeds off back to the normal operating pressure the compressor will come back on. Another issue could be you may have a Receiver/Drier Failing. A set of gauges hooked up to the system to monitor pressures is the only way to trouble shoot the issue your are having if it is a pressure related issue and not an electrical issue.

The purpose of the Expansion Valve in the A/C System is to convert the Freon from a Liquid to a Gas going into the Evaporator. The Expansion Valve is always positioned on the High Pressure side of the A/C system between the Compressor and the Evaporator. It is very rare for an Expansion Valve to stick open as they are normally open and only close to meter the amount of Freon going into the Evaporator that is converted to gas for cooling and is controlled by temperature. There is also the Receiver/Drier that is located on the high side of the system before the Condenser to filter any moisture or debris out of the system. If there is contaminates in the A/c System it may plug up the Expansion Valve causing higher than normal pressure readings. A contaminated Receiver/Drier will also cause higher than normal pressures. The pressure you are reading on the low side of the system when the Compressor is not running is called the Vapor Pressure. When the A/C System is properly filled the Vapor Pressure (some Techs will also call it Static Pressure) will fluctuate up and down based on the outside air temperature, normally between 80 to 120 PSI. If you have a leak in the A/C system the Vapor Pressure will go down as the Freon leaks out until there is no Liquid Freon left. When the Vapor Pressure goes below 50psi the system is out of Freon. When the A/C system is turned on and the Compressor is running, the Low side pressure should read between 30psi to 40psi and the high side pressure around 312psi to 390psi. These pressure are all regulated by the outside air temp. The higher the OAT the higher the A/C system pressure will elevate and fluctuate. The Pressure Switch will cut the Compressor off when the pressure on the low side goes below 28psi or the high side goes above 398psi If your system pressures are in range, another check you should do is to check the temperature of the air coming out of the A/C vents in the dash. To properly check that temperature, turn the A/C system on to MAX (Recirculate), and Fan on high speed. You should take the temperature from the closest vent coming from the Evaporator. That temperature will fluctuate up and down depending on what the OAT is. On a 75 degree day you should see temperatures in the low to mid 40's and a low side pressure between 25 to 32 psi.. You can Google for charts that will show you what pressures and temps your system should operate with the different outside air temps.

Paul It was not a Demo. We purchased it at the Foretravel Factory when we were there for the Factory tour. year is 2016.

We were very happy with our Exec and I was not looking to replace it. In 2010 our circumstances changed and we took custody of our 4 year old grand daughter. Sandy decided it would be a good idea to get a bath and a half coach so our GD would have some privacy and have her own bathroom. Our GD was with us when we purchased the ih-45. Now she is 16 and she has lost some interest in traveling with us old folks. Honestly we have enjoyed the extra bathroom and if I were to purchase another coach I would definitely want a bath and half..