David Pratt

If the generator was Cranking/starting and running before you replaced the Controller and all you did was replace the controller it should start and run. Make sure the controller is plugged in correctly. If all you did was replace the controller and it won't start after it goes through the automatic pre-heat timer sequence and the fuel pump is running it should automatically crank and start. If not, my next call would be to Flight Systems. Ya never know, new parts can be bad out of the box. It would be unusual for this company, but crap happens.

Heed Tom Cherry's advice and replace the Ignition switch and it will fix the problem. I have posted this previously on our old Yahoo Group and on this Forum. Monaco received a batch of defective Ignition Switches that were installed in 2004 thru 2006 Monaco Coaches built in Coburg. All the failures were exactly as your are experiencing. The affected coaches are the Dynasty, Executive, Signature, Beaver and Holiday Rambler and similar models manufactured from 2004 thru 2006 with either the DD60 or Cummins ISX or Cat engines. It might be prudent if you have own one of the affected coaches and the Ignition switch has not been replaced to either replace it or purchase a new one to have on hand when the one in your coach fails. It takes about 45 minutes to replace.

Tom, Excellent post. Thank You!!!

None of the Road Assistance plans will cover a TOW if the vehicle is involved in and Accident. Most if not all will have a mileage limitation if the TOW is related to a Mechanical Breakdown. I am not going to allow a debate on the issue of Roadside Assistance Service Providers, But of all the companies that provide towing have mileage limitations. Coach Net is arguably the best company for Roadside Assistance as the majority of their customers are more than satisfied with the services they provide. Coach Net offers many different services with their plans. Coach Net may not be the least expensive but then you get what you pay for. If you go cheap, you will be disappointed when you need them. I have been a member of Coach Net for 20 years and have never been disappointed with their service yet. Roadside Assistance that is provided by your insurance carrier is the worst. AAA and Good Sam are some of the worst. If your your coach is involved in a traffic accident, then recovery and towing is on your insurance provider and most of the reputable ones do not have limits when the vehicle is involved in an accident. If you have Roadside Assistance as part of your policy it will have a limitation for towing in the event of a mechanical breakdown.

Yes, there are probably many 08-09 Monaco Dynasty, Executive, Signature and HR coaches of similar models that have the KONGSBERG Chassis MUX system that have not had an Issue yet. It is not a matter of "IF" it will, it is just a matter of "WHEN". And when "WHEN" happens, you have a very expensive "Boat Anchor". We have a member on this forum that had to total his coach because of the KONGSBURG system failure because of a surge from a lightning strike near his coach. There are several members working on the Issues for a fix, but progress will be slow and Expensive. You should do your due Diligence and research on both this Forum and the IRV2 Forum on the KONGSBERG System and get your self educated on what you may be getting your self into if you purchase this coach. The ISX-600HP Cummins is the least of your worries, The valve issue was more prevalent to the 650HP ISX.

The Onan part number for the Control Board is 300-5961. That is the part number from the ONAN Generator Parts Manual. The part numbers on the Control Board are not the part numbers. The Flight Systems replacement part number is 56-5961-00 for their rebuilt unit. Both the 10K/12.5KHDK generators use the same control Board/Unit. But you should check with Flight System to verify. The following pictures show the hot/burn spot on the Control Board that I discussed earlier. Picture 1 shows the two areas of concern and show evidence of the boards getting hot. Picture 2 is a close up of the upper left corner in Picture 1. Picture 3 is a closer look of Picture 1 that is rotated upside down. Picture 4 is picture 1 rotated upside down.

The Control Unit is located in the front of the generator. You have to unbolt and move the Coolant Expansion Tank and the Air Filter Assembly for access. It is mounted behind/forward of those components Google "Replacing Onan 10/12.5K Control Board Location" and "Replacing Onan 10/12.5K Control Board". Lot of good Tutorials on how to do it

Let me expand more on this issue. The Cummins/Onan Control Units for the 10K-12.5K Generators are sealed in Epoxy and moisture/water will not effect their performance. The Harness plug is sealed when plugged into the control unit to prevent any moisture intrusion. Dirty fuel filters or low fuel is not the issue. there is a component on the control unit circuit board that is getting hot and causing the Generator to shut down. In most cases the generator will immediately restart and run. Mike's started to shut down and would not restart and run until it was shutdown for a longer length of time, probably waiting for the area on the circuit board to cool down. Five of the six Control Units that I have been involved with all showed signs of an overheating issue. Looking at the Control Unit after is has been removed and looking at the Circuit Board side that is Epoxied, there is an area on the board that is discolored about 1.5 square inches. On a couple of the boards the color was light brown and a couple of the other boards were much darker. Only one board showed no signs of discoloring and that board was from my Foretravel. Mike took a picture of the Onan CU that he replaced that showed signs of this overheating. If he still has it I will try to post it here. It leads me to believe that it may be a cold solder joint in that area, but that is just a wild ass guess on my part. The Control Unit is not difficult to replace takes about a half hour. Flight Systems Tech support is very good, but I could not get an answer from them what they find wrong on the CB they rebuild. I have been in contact with Cummins/Onan about what I have found and the fix. It will be interesting to see how far it goes with them. I am sure that there are many more coaches out there equipped with the 10K-12.5K QD generators with this issue and the owners have spent a lot of $$$$ replacing parts that are not the problem.

This is a known problem with the Onan QD 10K and 12.5K Generators. Code 36 is a generic code and it means the Generator shut down from and outside source or the operator. Cummins will tell you it is fuel related because it has no stored codes or you may have low fuel or a weak fuel pump that is intermittently shutting the Generator down. IT IS NONE OF THESE. The issue is the Control Unit that is at fault and needs to be replaced. Do NOT REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONAN CONTROL BOARD OR YOU WILL STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. If the generators starts and runs normal and then for no reason it shuts down, but it will re-start and run normally again this is the issue. The generator may run only a few minutes or a couple of hours and shut down for no apparent reason, but will always restart and run again. Sometimes the Generator may run normally for several hours or cycles without the issue. Mike Hadley, who purchased my 05 Exec started to have the issue with the 10KQD. Sometimes the generator would start and run for several hours and several cycles/days with no issues. Intermittently it would start and run 15 minutes and shut down and then restart and run for hours and cycles and days before it would do it again. On a couple of occasions it would not restart until it had set for a while. After several trips to Cummins/Onan and replacing the fuel pump, fuel control solenoid it did not fix the problem. Because it was not throwing any codes Cummins did not believe it was the control unit, but did admit it was an issue they new about and had no fix. I was having this same issue with the 12.5QD in the Foretravel since new. Sometimes the generator would start and run for several hours and several days with no issues. Intermittently it would start and run 15 minutes and shut down and then restart, run for hours/cycles and days before it would shut down again. After several trips to Cummins/Onan and replacing the fuel pump, fuel control solenoid it did not fix the problem. Because it was not throwing any codes Cummins did not believe it was the control unit. Cummins finally did replace the control unit and it ran normally for a few trips and started again, but not as bad, but still with the symptoms. Thankfully all the repairs were covered under warranty. Mike found a company, "Flight Systems, Inc " that sells rebuilt Onan Control Units for half the price of the new Onan Control unit. He purchased a rebuilt Control Unit from the and replaced the Onan Control Unit and it solved the problem. No more Shutting down. I had a Mobile Technician come out and Verify that I was having and issue with the generator shutting down and the Extended Warranty approved the replacement of the Control Unit. I replaced it with a rebuilt Control Unit from Flight Systems, Inc. My generator has not shut down since the Replacement. Several other members who were having the same issue with their 10K/12.5K generators have purchased the Flight Systems rebuilt unit and the problem was fixed. This may not fix the issue with your 10K/12.5K generator, but it might be worth looking into. The Onan part number for the Control unit is 300-5961. The Flight Systems replacement part number is 56-5961-00 for their rebuilt unit. Cummins/Onan cost for their new Control Unit is $1000-$1200. Flight Systems price for their rebuilt unit is $695.00. The rebuilt Control Unit is sealed an epoxy material to prevent moisture contamination. Flight systems contact info is; https://www.flightsystems.com 1-800-333-9912

Disconnect the connectors going to the Control Thermostat and connect the ones from Aqua hot together, not the connectors going to the the control thermostat, leave those disconnected. When you restart the unit and if it does not shut off and continues to run past the 4 minutes, then YES you have a bad control thermostat..

The Dash AC system in our Coaches hold a lot of Freon. They are the approximately the size of a 1.5 ton AC Unit. and hold anywhere from 40 to 60 ounces of Freon. You have hoses that run the entire length of the coach. Most hose failures occur in the area of the fittings unless the hose has been rubbed through or chaffed by a chassis component or improper installation. another area of a potential leak is the AC compressor shaft seal. It is not uncommon to have to add a small amount of Freon annually to keep the system fully charged and operating at it's best. Check the hoses for any chafing and inspect closely the area around the fittings. If you detect any sign of an oily residue it is a sign of a leak. The older AC hoses had a tendency to become porous as they age and will show these signs. The newer hoses are manufactured much differently and prevent the hose from becoming porous. Seals in the compressor will also leak slightly as age sets in. It is very difficult to prevent this and the best way to stay on top of it is to annually have the system inspected, the pressures checked and add Freon as necessary to top the system off. AC systems should be exercised as much as possible. They do not like being OFF. As long as the AC system stays closed and is operating normally just add Freon as needed. You may also want to add a dye into your system the first time you have to add Freon. With the Dye in the system you will be able to detect a leak or potential failure using an Ultraviolet light. The Dye used for the AC systems is a very small amount and will not hurt the system. There are also some very good Sealers on the market today that will seal off any small leaks that may show up in the AC system, such as Evaporators, Condensers and other components. When properly added they live in the system, will not harm the system and if a small leak were to develop may and can stop it. I have four Coleman MACH8 Roof Top AC Units on my ih-45. The rear unit failed due to a leak in the evaporator. I installed a schrader valve in the system and recharged the unit. It leaked down again within about six months. I decided to evacuate and flush the system with Nitrogen, recharged it and added a stop leak into the unit. That was three years ago and the Unit is still working and cooling great and no leaks. The sealer is used through out the commercial refrigeration Industry and is called PROSEAL XL4. It is compatible with R134A and R410A and other Freon systems. You can purchase in various amounts to service AC units from 1.5 tons to 5.0 tons. When used properly it will not harm the system or the compressor. The receiver-drier, expansion valve, pressure switches and thermostat are all installed outside of the Evaporator case and normally in plain site. I keep a Thermometer stuck into my center AC outlet in the dash closest to the Evaporator so I can observe the temp coming out of the duct. The outlet temperature will vary based on the ambient temperature inside the coach on recycle mode. I travel with the front and rear roof airs operating and the thermostats set at 76 deg. The dash outlet temp is always between 49-55deg when the outside temperature this summer was 105+ deg. I added approximately 4.5oz of Freon to my system when I serviced it this year. This was a bit less than what I added to the system when I serviced it last year. This is another indication that the system is still tight and operating normally.

The new Remco-Aquajet 55RV water pump can still be adjusted. When you are looking at the head of the pump-(refer to pictures in prior post), The flat cover on the lower left of the head is the pressure switch and the Switch cover with the wires connected to it on the right of the head is the cut off switch. They both have an Allen screw for adjustment. The left one is 3/32" hex and the right one is 1/16". The older pumps had the electronics mounted on the head of the pump. in the later pumps they moved the electronics under the pump and sealed it with a gasket and cover plate. TOn the new Aquatec pumps the electronics are still mounted under the motor, but are sealed in Epoxy. There is no electronics in the head, the switch that has the wires connected to it is just a micro-switch to turn on and shut off the motor. The post from Tom Cherry with the instructions to adjust the pump to stop it from pulsing is the same with the new pumps. Remco seals the Allen adjusting screws with RTV. Just pick the RTV out to adjust. I have replaced at least four Water Pumps with the Aquajet 55RV and have had to adjust everyone after installation. I am attaching a Drawing of the mounting pad I designed to mount my Water Pump. It will eliminate almost all the noise from the pump. Make sure when you install the pump that you install flexible looped water lines to and from the pump. The installation of the coiled flex line will help eliminate the Hammering. I have also included pictures of the Water Pump Installation in our coach. Water Pump Pad.pdf

I am confused1 You stated that you tested the control thermostat when you checked the High and Low thermostats cold. You stated that the high and low limit thermostats had continuity and the control thermostat was open. Now, you tested it again and you have continuity. You connect the two wires that go to the unit and not the two wires that go to the control thermostat. Consistent and correct info is a must to be able to correctly diagnose a problem.

Yes, If the water is cold in the boiler and the control thermostat is open it indicates it has failed. Jump the two spade connectors together and it should stay running.

The Aqua Hot 100-04s Boiler has only three thermostats. The thermostats are located behind the Removal-able Square Cover located in the boiler above the burner. The two lower thermostats are the High Limit, 120VAC and next to it is the High Limit 12VDC. Above them is the controlling thermostat-(185deg)-this controls the temperature of the water when you are on either Diesel or Electric and will cycle on/off as hot water demand is needed. What you are describing may indicate that the controlling thermostat is failing as it is effecting both the diesel and electric operation. The simplest way to verify this is to access the thermostats and check for continuity on all three. All the thermostats should read closed when the system is cold. If they all read closed next disconnect the two wire connectors-( they are spade connectors)-going to the controlling thermostat and jump them together and start the Aqua Hot. If the Aqua Hot stays running then you have a bad thermostat. All three Thermostats must check closed when the system is in the cold state for the system to work. The high limit thermostats will shut the system off when the water temperature reaches 200degF when on diesel or Electric. If you do not have the Manuals you can download them from the Aqua hot website or I can send them to you.

The coach you have is far better in Quality and components Than any of the current production coaches built today. We spent three years researching for a coach to replace my 05 Monaco Exec. We narrowed it down to four manufacturers; Entegra Cornerstone, Newmar Essex/King Air, Tiffin and Foretravel. We looked at all the models at the Tampa Super Show other than the Foretravel, none of the others came close to the quality of the 05 Exec. In our research, everyone we contacted about Foretravel had nothing but praise for the quality of the coach and the service from Foretravel. My BIL just took delivery of a 2024 Entegra Cornerstone and another good friend took delivery of and Entegra Anthem. Both coaches have multiple issues with fit and finish and issued with electronics. My BIL is stall waiting after six weeks for the manual for his coach. Purchasing the Foretravel ih-45 has been a very good experience and we have not been disappointed with the coach or the factory support after six years of ownership If you are looking for a great replacement look into a Foretravel. Any year including the older Foretravels are great coaches

My Foretravel ih-45 has all AGM batteries including the chassis batteries. In the past ten years most of your higher end coaches have all gone to AGM 's compltely and do not install Lead Acid batteries anymore. As part of my yearly maintenance schedule I do a Load Test of all the AGM's. When the batteries are tested in their resting SOC they all have remained constant at 13.5vdc+/- each year. My 05 Exec has the Duracell AGM's and the new owner has had no issues with those batteries. When your batteries are in Float Charge they are drawing less than 2.5 amps to maintain their charge. There is no such Lithium battery that will not catch on fire under the right conditions. Lithium Batteries should never be used as a starting battery. A Lithium Battery cannot handle the High Current Discharge AMP Load that is need to start a Diesel engine or any engine. My BIL just took delivery of a 2024 Entegra Cornerstane. As part of the purchase Entegra was to replace the flooded cell batteries with AGM's at the Factory in Elkhart. The Factory forgot to do it and the dealer was given the task to replace them. The Dealer made the mistake of replacing the Flooded Cell Batteries with Lithium instead of AGM's. After several times starting the coach with no issue, recently, we were at a campground and when he went to start his coach to reposition it, he heard a pop and all the power to the coach died. On trouble shooting the problem, I found the high limit breakers open. Further inspection revealed that one of the Lithium Batteries was completely discharge and swollen. I believe that the high limit CB's prevented a very disastrous out come. I instructed my BIL to not try to start the coach. The dealer would not admit to making the mistake and it took over two days of arguing with the dealer and Entegra to send some one to replace the batteries with AGM's Lithium Batteries do not have a CCA rating. Never use them as Chassis Batteries. My experience from this issue is the manufactures are producing junk, they do not do to what they agree and the dealers do not give a crap and do not have the Technical Expertise to fix them.

Sorry about that. Try this: Actia_Cluster_2006_Service_Manual.pdf

Here is the 2006 Owners manual for the Actia Dash Gauges. I am not sure it is the same on your coach but it may help in trouble shooting your issue. file:///C:/Users/David/Downloads/Actia_Cluster_2006_Service_Manual.pdf

Buyers should be made aware that this coach will have the Kongsburg Chassis Mux System!

If the chrome is in good shape, NO. We cannot chrome plastic and you can purchase replacements from RAMCO.

Yes it is a poor design. A heat gun should work. That light on the bottom of the arm should flash with the turn signal activated. The wire connectors will get corroded and prevent them from working. They will just pop out, just gently pry down on either end to remove them.

Your mirrors are Ramco's. They will have only the bolt to hold the arm in the base. You can try spraying something like PB Blaster around the arm at the base and let it soak in over nite and that may help loosen the corrosion and allow you to turn and separate them. Another method is to use a propane torch and heat the base and not the arm and that should allow you to get the arm to turn and get it out. If that fails, remove the head and wiring and send them to me and we can get them apart for you.

Are your mirrors Velvac or Ramco??? If they are Velvac they will also have two Allen set screws on the bases that you have to loosen to get the arm to turn on the base. Ramco mirrors do not have the Allen set screws. In most cases the arm and base has corroded together making it difficult to separate them. If you can post a picture of the arm and base will help identify what mirror you have to proceed.

LazyDays RV in Wildwood FL will be able to diagnose and repair your dash AC system. Your system takes R134A Freon and can be purchased at any automotive parts house. I would suggest that you add at least two cans of Freon to the system first and if the compressor is good, starts and continues to run, your system should start to cool. Your system will hold between 44 to 52 OZ. of Freon, about four and a half Cans total. A can of Freon is 12 oz. You may have to By-pass the low pressure switch to get the compressor to run at first. You can buy a AC Service Kit at any parts house which will include a gauge and hose that will connect to the low side of your system. You just screw a can of Freon into the adapter where the gauge is and squeeze the trigger to let the Freon into the system. The gauge will have a green band on it. Just fill the system keeping the gauge needle in the Green Band. You should add check the Freon Pressure in the Dash AC System to your Annual Checklist. It is not uncommon for the system in our coaches to lose two to four ounces of Freon over the course of a year under normal operation in a good system.. It should be part of your Annual Maintenance check list if you have one. If your system has been in-operable for a long time it should be serviced. Replace the receiver drier, evacuated and recharge the system. Another suggestion is to purchase an AC thermometer and stick it into one of the AC center outlets in the dash to monitor the air coming out of the ducts. The temperature coming out of the outlets will vary but should be anywhere between 25 to 30 degrees F below Ambient. This will give you a warning that if the system starts to stay higher that it might be time for service or check for leaks. The Dash Ac system is probably the most neglected system we have in our coaches.