David Pratt

The key pads on the mid 2000's Monaco coaches are known to go bad after time. The early units had a flexible e-poxy sealer under the buttons that got hard over time because of exposure to the sunlight. As it hardened the buttons would get harder to push and would not respond to any input. when they fail they can also put pressure on the internal electronics and causing the key fob to quit responding. Remove the keypad and on the back is a label with the Manufacture's info and part number that you will need to purchase a replacement. If trying to reprogram the old keypad fails, replace it. The replacements do not have the issue.

I discovered cracks in both vertical uprights on my 05 Exec. This is a common problem on all the RR10R Road Master Chassis's built in Coburg from 2004 thru 2006. Monaco did not install a vertical support brace on the rear of the vertical support and large enough Gussets to keep the drive axle from flexing the vertical supports that the trailing arms are connected to. I took the coach to JOSAM's for the repairs. Because I caught the problem early and the uprights were only cracked the repair only took one day. JOSAM's has been doing this repair for several years and has all the parts to do the repair already fabricated and in stock. There are pictures posted on this forum of the before and after pictures of the repair that was done on my Exec. There has been a lot of discussion on this group and on IRV2 for several years about this issue, If you own a 2004-2006 Dynasty, Executive, Signature or Navigator, you should inspect the drive axle uprights that the trailing arms are connected to and verify whether you have the gussets installed or not. If you do not you make an appointment to have them installed. JOSAM's has the knowledge, parts and expertise and does and excellent job doing this repair. Research the forum for the picture I posted of JOSAM'S repair work. As a last resort I may still have them that I can re-post, not sure since I sold my Exec three years ago and may have not kept them after I posted them to the Forum.

That is exactly what Sandy said after it was all done. My answer to that is that is what a hose, soap and water is for

How long the Ceramic Coating lasts depends on whether the coach is outside in the environment or inside a covered storage when not in use and also the care of the coach. It also depends on the process used to apply the Ceramic Coating and who Applied it. You should quiz the original owner to find out as there is no way to tell for sure. Three years ago Ceramic Coatings were just starting to catch on. Maybe someone who is doing the service might be able to tell you. Dazzling Details performed the service on our ih-45 and the coating is warranted for five years. There is a maintenance process to the coating that is done at that time to rejuvenate the coating.

All new information will be posted here to all members and you will also be notified by the daily Newsletter

The finished product. I took the pictures with the coach still in the Barn. I thought it was sort of neat the way everything is reflecting off the coach. The coach will be a Rolling Mirror going done the road. Picture 6 is me standing at the rear of the coach against the back roll up door. you can see me taking the picture, When I pull the coach out of the barn I will take some full shots.

Let us know how it all works out.

Please give me a call at 321-427-6909 so I can discuss further. It can get lengthy and I do not want to burn up a lot of Forum space.

Rethinking about the voltages you are seeing, the house batteries should be at a higher voltage than the chassis batteries by +/_ .3 to .4vdc. If the batteries stay charged at that voltage, the bird relay is probably working. I am just not sure why green light goes out when in float. Does your coach have the chassis MUX system.

The green light should remain on when connected to shore power or when the generator is running regardless what state of charge the batteries are in. When the batteries are in float the light should be on, the Big Boy Relay should be humming and hot to touch and the voltage on the Big. Boy should be above 13vdc on both of the large posts. The voltages I sent you for diagnosing the bird relay need to be verified.

There has been countless discussion on this Forum about replacing the Alternator on our Coaches. Out of all these discussions it has been documented that the best route to take is to have your OEM Alternator rebuilt unless you can find the exact replacement, The reason is that most RV Alternators, especially on Diesel Pushers are custom built for the RV environment and most "off the shelf" Alternators either are not compatible and they do not work or cause other problems, some serious. Although those "OFF the shelf" Alternators look the same and have the same specs there can be internal changes that are RV specific. If you still have your OEM alternator I would suggest you get it rebuilt by a reputable shop or find the exact Manufacturer, part number, model number of the Alternator that was on your coach to replace it with..

As Owner of Monacoers.org and along with the other Moderators we do not allow, condone, promote or support any post that discusses any methods to restrict, disable or modify any of the factory installed safety devices on the coaches unless these modification were used by Monaco or the Manufacturer to improve functionality and safety of later year coaches and the modification would also be applicable to older model year coaches. Let's keep the discussion limited to how Monaco or the Manufacturer configured the slide safety systems in later model year coaches that they may be applicable to issues with older coaches. While Monaco did make some higher-end coaches that would allow slides to be closed with the engine running, they had additional features such as automatic slide locks that prevented the slides from deploying or creeping out while the coach is in motion.” “Please use extreme caution when disabling any factory-installed safety devices." The Monacoers.org group is for the Technical Support and information for the Members and to promote discussions in the Safe Operation of our Coaches. Our forum does not condone discussions on unapproved modifications to factory installed safety systems. Any Member can modify, alter or operate their coach as they wish, but when it goes against safety, WHETHER IT IS REMOVING, DISCONNECTING OR ALTERING ANY SAFETY DEVICE OR COMPONENT, we do not support or promote these discussions. They have no place on this group and they need to be discussed elsewhere. I appreciate all our Members cooperation in such matters in the future..

Yes it is a lot cheaper than a paint job, in fact It looks better than the new Factory Paint when I purchased the coach. The cost to do any coach will vary depending on length and how much paint correction has to be done. Also wet/dry sanding the coach is not normally included in the cost that other companies quote to do the process. Most just buff, glaze and Ceramic Coat. The cost to do our coach was $8500.00. I have a couple of pictures to attach. The first picture shows the coach after it has been wet/dry sanded and they have started buffing. The top half of the coach is still sanded and the bottom the have started to buff. The second picture is just a close up. I will post pictures of the coach done in a day or two.

When you placed your order for the slide out solenoid did HWH tell you about how long the wait time would be. The reason I ask is back in the first of March I had a Solenoid fail and had to replace it. The coach was still under warranty and when the tech called to order the parts he was told there was a six to eight week hold up on shipping the part. Fortunately I had a new one in my stock of spare parts and replaced it. The tech ordered a new one and when it comes in will give it to me to replace my spare I used. This is the seventh week since the part was ordered and HWH has no idea when they will be shipping the part yet. The solenoids are available new on eBay for around $260.00. You might want to purchase one as as a spare. I learned that lesson when I had my 05 Exec. Back in March I sent you a trouble shooting guide about slide out creep, Was it Helpful. You do not need any special tools to R & R the Solenoid. A pair of large pliers will loosen the Solenoid and it will turn easily out. The HWH Service manual cover the steps to replace them.

I finally bit the bullet and decided to have the Ceramic Coating done on our FORETRAVEL ih-45. Dazzling Details of Florida did the job. They service many states all over the east to the Mississippi River. I have used Dazzling Details for washing, waxing and detailing my coaches for over the last 15 years. They are also listed in our vendors section. They completed applying the Ceramic Paint Protection on our ih-45 Sunday. It took 6 eight hour days. Properly done the process is a 7 step process and very labor intensive. The paint on the coach has no more orange peel or iffy spots and is like looking in a mirror. The final outcome is amazing and I am very pleased. Money well spent. I will elaborate more if anyone is interested. The process is done in seven stages; 1st they wash and dry the coach, 2nd they remove all the old wax from the paint, 3rd they wet/dry sanded the entire coach, 4th they then buffed the whole coach removing any orange peel, scratches or imperfections from the paint, 5th they then put a glaze on the entire coach removing all the swirl marks and the glaze brings the paint to a mirror finish and is the base for the Ceramic Coating, 6th the coach is completely washed and dried again and any paint correction is completed and the 7th step they apply the Ceramic Coating. The first five days all the work was done with a four man crew working 7 to 8 hours each day. The Ceramic Application is done by a two man crew and took about 9 hours. All the work done included the entire coach, wheels, Roof and windows. The final outcome is that the coach looks AWSOME. When you look at the Coach you are looking into a mirror. The Ceramic Coating is Warrantied for five years and I do not have to wax it again other than a maintenance check on the Ceramic Coating in three to five years.

There is no manual for this relay, so maybe the following will help you. Here is the info for the Big Boy System that might be helpful. That circuit board is called the Bird Relay Module which is located in the RRB. There is a Green LED-(ISO Relay On)-third from the top on the board that should be Illuminated and the Big Boy Relay should have a low humm and be hot to touch when working properly. When you disconnect from shore power and the generator is not running, the Green LED should be out. The Big Boy Relay will drop out of the circuit when the dc voltage drops to 12.5 to 12.8 vdc when measured at the Battery side of the Big Boy Relay. When connected to shore power or when the generator is running you should have power to the #2 pin on the eight pin connector on the right side of the board. The #1 pin is ground and the #3 pin is powered on when you turn on the Ignition Switch. Pin #4 is from the battery boost circuit, Pin #5 is the Domestic power circuit. Pins #6 & #7 are blank. Pin #8 is a ground circuit. The six pin connector on the top of the board powers up the relays. The left pin is Pin #1 and is ground, Pin #2 powers up the Big Boy Relay, Pins #3-4-5-6 power up the two Domestic Relays to the right of the Big Boy Relay. When working properly you should measure about + or - 4.6vdc on Pin #1 when the Board is powered up and the Big Boy Relay is working. If the BB is powered up and running correctly, you should have around 4.5 to 4.8 vdc on pin 1 of the 6 pin connector. You should also have that same voltage on pins 1, 4, 5 & 8 on the 8 pin connector. On the BB Solenoid you should be seeing 12.8+ vdc on the chassis side battery post-(left side) and 13.0+ vdc on the house battery side post-(right side). A differential of .3 to .6 vdc between these two posts is normal. If your Inverter is set up correctly and the Bird relay is working-(green light on) the Inverter through the BIRD Relay and the BB will charge the Coach Batteries first and then the Chassis batteries and when all the Batteries are fully charged the Inverter will go into float charge. When plugged into Shore Power or with the Genset running the Green LED will be Lit on the BIRD Relay Circuit Board, If not I would venture to guess that the circuit board is failing or has failed. The relay above the eight pin connector on the BIRD circuit board controls the Big Boy Relay, it could be failing.

I have no desire to travel, visit or participate in the Commerce of California, Oregon or Washington State. I would not attempt in anyway to bring my RV to those states to enjoy their beauty or campgrounds. You do so at your own risk.

Your house battery's have no effect on your chassis battery's. Your chassis battery's run all your lights, Transmission/Engine Components and everything else that functions when you turn the key on. Properly maintained battery's will last much longer than four years. You House battery's are their to power the Inverter when you are not connected to shore power and do not have the Generator running. Do you run your Generator while traveling? Not sure about your coach but in most coaches the Generator through the Inverter charges the chassis and house battery's. This will give you a good back up if you do have an alternator failure.

Before you spend all the money on new batteries it might be prudent to have the Alternator Checked to see if it is properly working and charging the battery's. I am not sure about your coach, but in most of the older coaches the Tachometer Signal comes from the Alternator. First sign of a coming alternator failure is the Tachometer starts going erratic. Battery's that are only showing 12.0 VDC are basically dead to most of the electronics in your coach and your Transmission is going into Limp mode at that voltage to save itself from damage. A new engine control module is several thousand dollars. Replacing battery's without checking the output of the Alternator to make sure it is functioning properly is like closing the Barn Door after the Horse escaped.

Go to RVCHASSISPARTS>COM they sell replacement parts for Monaco, Spartan, Freightliner, Roadmaster and Workhorse Chassis. The Monaco Part Number for the boot is 0180561, the Vendor Part number is 182-KK1 which is a spartan Part number. When you have logged into rvchassisparts.com search part number 182-KK1, sale price is $22.31. Dimensions are 9.5" X 8.5" X 9.0" tall. This info will be added to our parts list and our vendor list.

Bill D's Monacoers.Org is free to Members only. Bill D is not paying the Invision Community any monthly fee to provide this Forum as Bill passed away years before we moved to this Forum and would be unable to to pay if there was a fee. My goal as the Owner of the Monacoers.org Group as with the other Moderators was to make it available at no charge to all members. We are fortunate that we have been able to do just that. When necessary I use many other search engines and do not care if they share my info because I am very cautious about what information I have made available. Everyone has their own methods for searching information and should use whatever they feel comfortable using. What Search Engine a member uses is their business and I have no problem if a member wants to post something positive or negative about their experience as long as it is kept respectful and to the point. This thread started out as a discussion about a small engine Invention and got hijacked into a discussion about Web Search Engines. There has been a lot of good information and opinions posted and has made some good informed reading for all who have followed and participated in the thread. The Monacoers.org Forum has the most Comprehensive Information gathered to help assist our members with just about any problem they may have with their Monaco Brand Coach. If you couple that with the Information that is available on the IRV2 Forum, you have two formidable assets to glean information from and there are members on both groups with the expertise and knowledge to help each other. What I am asking is that anymore discussions about web search engines be taken off line and the search engine discussion ended. Thanks

The Aladdin Wiring Diagrams are in your Electrical Wiring Diagram Schematics Manual. The Drawing Numbers are 38050049, pages 1-2, and Drawing Number 38050050, pages 1-2. If you Monitor failed, why did you not just replace the Monitor??? Inquiring minds would like to know.

Monaco uses the coach air to operate the Air Horns and not a separate compressor. That is your air horn solenoid. One of the airlines going into the solenoid will have the coach air pressure if the coach is aired up. The other line goes to the air horns. When you press the horn switch it activates the solenoid and send air to the horns. You should make sure you dump the air in your coach before removing the solenoid. After you dump the air it will be safe to remove and replace the Solenoid. That solenoid might be obsolete, the replacement solenoid is a Hadley, Part Number is H00550B. They are on Amazon for under Fifty Bucks.

If the leaking regulator is set at a Specific Pressure for the weight of the coach and it is holding that pressure despite that it is leaking, there is no real reason to re-weigh the coach unless you have changed the loading since you last weighed the coach. Just set the new regulator to the correct pressure and go.

The Monaco part number for the tag axle air pressure regulator is 01807886. The vendor part number is Parker 2617-MRK-5 and the gauge reads 0-160 psi. The old Monaco part number was 01807096, Parker P/N 2617-MRK-3 and the gauge read 0-60psi that was superseded to the new part number in 2005. Grainger has the correct replacement Parker Regulator, the Grainger P/N 21U810, Parker P/N06R118AC, $82.00 and also a Norgren Regulator, P/N 22ZD19, Norgren P/NR73G-RMG-7419. $74.19. Both are the correct replacements for the Monaco Tag axle Regulator. Grainger also has a Speedaire replacement for about half price, not recommended.