MHRookie Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 I’m mechanically inclined so just asking as a DIY’er... scale of 1 to 10 (10 is simple), how difficult is the job to swap o-rings on the 6 pack leveling units? I also assume, air tanks are emptied AND bags are deflated correct? Second - while under coach, would you upgrade the ride height valves... I assume measurements from installed units can be used for new valves? Scale of 1 to 10?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 Replacing the o-rings is simple. The most painful part of it is getting that manifolds out. Not a complex project, just in a tough location to get to. Be sure to Mark all of the lines and plugs. Ride height calves are simple but not really needed if they are functioning fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwhittle Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 When I replaced my o-rings, I did not remove the manifolds from the coach. I removed the solenoid/valves one at a time, replaced the o-rings, and replaced it. I did not remove any airlines. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted May 15, 2021 Author Share Posted May 15, 2021 38 minutes ago, pwhittle said: When I replaced my o-rings, I did not remove the manifolds from the coach. I removed the solenoid/valves one at a time, replaced the o-rings, and replaced it. I did not remove any airlines. Paul Paul, but the total air drain of tanks & bags is needed correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwhittle Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 Yes. Everything was drained and the chassis was blocked in place. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 I decided to remove mine after pulling the first solenoid and noticing a bit a corrosion on the aluminum body of the manifold. Just didn’t want it to still leak so I milled the face of the manifold just a bit so the surface was clean and like new again. I also had a few of the push fittings that were leaking. This is easily resolved by removing the hose and snipping off about 1/4” from the end and reinstalling. Be sure to cut it squarely. Easy fix. I went over the whole Coach with a soapy water squirt bottle and found others with this issue good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planodp Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 I’m doing my right now. After trying a few different things getting the valve off the manifold I decided to remove the manifold. Getting the airlines off was the tough part. You have 3 option getting the airlines off. 1. Taking if off the proper way by releasing the lock collar 2. Taking the fitting off the manifold with the airline on the fitting (this what I did) 3. Cutting the airline off and use a compression fitting to extend the airline if need be. Plus getting new fitting. The electrical connection I also thought will be difficult but it turns out to be the pretty easy. All the wires ran to 1 round quick discount and this was the only thing I had to disconnect. Make sure that you check all the solenoid. The coils should ohm to about 15.5 ohms (which can be easily checked by just unplugging the coil from the wire harness and inserting your multimeter test probes into the connector going to the coil. On my first manifold and found 1 coil bad. So, for me it would be an 8-9 on the scale and a lot of this having to do with getting to the airlines and electrical connection. Just make sure you really want to tackle it. Once you start the coach will be seating there till it put back together. Here is a link to an o-ring size chart at the o-ring store.https://www.theoringstore.com/index....5fd42776832106I think the best way to purchase these is in a kit that has Viton o-rings in all three sizes we need: -015, -019, and -028.https://www.theoringstore.com/index....5fd42776832106 From Paul Whittle, This is the wrench you need to take the solenoids apart to get to the inner o-ring.Newco 202079 Spanner Nut Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PCOBCE..._-TgNBbHXBBKW6 Amazon is out of stock. use this https://discountcoffeeequipment.com/repair-parts-c-19/newco-c-19_59/newco-202079-spanner-nut-wrench-p-39757.html Coil wrong plug $20https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SF55LNS...ing=UTF8&psc=1Coil no plug $40https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DG7BYC...EFYQ2Y3N1TDYNE 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted May 15, 2021 Author Share Posted May 15, 2021 Thanks everyone! Prepping the coach appears to be the most challenging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 (edited) I do a significant amount of R&R plus custom upgrades on my coach but if it requires me to get under the coach I leave it to the experts who are equipped to handle the job. I am pleased of my recent HWH 6-Pack repair which I had done at Josam's in Orlando. I had been plagued for years with the ass end leaking down plus the raise function would not work in the rear. They found one valve leaking plus the wiring harness was hooked up to some of the valves and check valves incorrectly. They didn't have all of the o-rings in stock but they did have one complete valve so I had them replace the one leaking valve and correct the wiring mistake from the factory. BTW, Josam's stated that if the valve isn't leaking there is no need to replace the o-rings. Don't need to fix something that isn't broken, However if you are doing it yourself and have to remove the entire 6-pack block then a complete overhaul would be my choice. We are now parked for about 5-6 months and the coach is level and stable. I am a Happy Camper! Edited May 15, 2021 by Dr4Film 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgecederholm Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 I can echo most of the comments above from experience. I removed the manifolds because I thought I should bench test everything before calling it “done”, which was extra work and hard to verify in the pin out. There are actually 3 o-rings per valve (detailed write-up with pictures on the hated iRV2), and I had to get and modify a special wrench used on nitrous injection kits to access the internal one. Most of the air lines needed to be trimmed to clean stock to re-attach without leaks; plan to trim them all. Many of the fittings needed to be replaced as well. Many of the air lines were already too short and/or routed at weird angles by Monaco, so I had to get more air line and make up short “jumpers” with elbows to get them to align correctly. Glad I did it but wouldn’t do it again. Lasted ~5 years before I made a stop at HWH in Iowa and they ended up replacing 3 (of 18) solenoids, which weren’t leaking but not operating correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planodp Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Got everything back together. Replaced all o-rings and 1 complete Raise solenoid assembly (left raise) on the driver side manifold . The system was working correctly but now it not. This is what it doing, when put in travel mode the driver side complete lower and the passenger side rise to the max height. Went back and recheck all of the solenoid plugs to verify that the plug are plug into the correct plug on the pig tail connection. All the plug are correctly plug in. Looking for the HWH control box that is suppose to be in the center bay didn't see it. Is it on top under the cover? Anybody have any suggestion? This is crazy! Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Sure sounds like you got some wiring bass-ackwards. You should find the master control board with tons of fuses mounted on the ceiling in one of your storage bays (mine is in the rear most pass-thru bay) and it's under a shiny SS cover. The HWH Manual for your system has lots of trouble-shooting steps that you can follow to help figure out what's wrong. If you don't have the manual you can download it from here. It appears that HWH Corp is revamping their website and it is now very difficult to find what I was looking for previously. Here's the best that I can offer. If you know the model number of your HWH Air Leveling System I may have the proper manual for your System which I can send to you OR it may even be on this web site in the support section. You will need to do some searching. http://server51.hwhcorp.com/?page_id=28042 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planodp Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Thank you for the Information. Its HWH 2000 model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 I only have the HWH-500 and HWH-600 manuals but here is a link that I found to the HWH-2000 Manual. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/chassis/HWH2000_owners.pdf Plus here is another link to the HWH Leveling Systems Text Book manual which has LOTS of information. https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20635.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgecederholm Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 4 hours ago, planodp said: Got everything back together. Replaced all o-rings and 1 complete Raise solenoid assembly (left raise) on the driver side manifold . The system was working correctly but now it not. This is what it doing, when put in travel mode the driver side complete lower and the passenger side rise to the max height. Went back and recheck all of the solenoid plugs to verify that the plug are plug into the correct plug on the pig tail connection. All the plug are correctly plug in. Looking for the HWH control box that is suppose to be in the center bay didn't see it. Is it on top under the cover? Anybody have any suggestion? This is crazy! Thanks in advance. Our Exec is 2005, so might be different. Our HWH "control box" is mounted to the ceiling of the large pass-thru bay, in the center covered by a large panel. The panel covering the center of the bay is held on with 4-6 screws which can be hard to see unless laying on your back with a flashlight. Ours also has a drop-down hatch built into the panel specifically for the HWH box, but it's a little tight to get the box in and out through that hole. The control box is screwed to the bay ceiling with some custom brackets; you should be able to remove the control box by just loosening the screws holding the brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planodp Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 I do see the drop-down hatch panel on my also. Thank you I just need to remove the HWH cover to see what the light indicate to help troubleshooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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