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Dual Pane Windows


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I am trying to increase the overall insulation of our 2009 Beaver Marquis.  Currently all our side windows are single pane.

Is it general consensus that dual pane windows do provide additional insulation and less heat load into the coach?

Has anyone changed out single to double pane?  Is it even possible or is the frame and side walls not conducive to a change out?

I have read on some coaches the dual pane windows are problematic, losing seals, fogging, etc.

Lot's of questions, trying to do research.  Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciative.  Bob...

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How thick is your single pane glass? Thick enough for double pane to fit in frame channel? Our double pane is just a hair less than 7/16 measured at the sliding half.

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5 hours ago, Bob125 said:

I am trying to increase the overall insulation of our 2009 Beaver Marquis.  Currently all our side windows are single pane.

Is it general consensus that dual pane windows do provide additional insulation and less heat load into the coach?

Has anyone changed out single to double pane?  Is it even possible or is the frame and side walls not conducive to a change out?

I have read on some coaches the dual pane windows are problematic, losing seals, fogging, etc.

Lot's of questions, trying to do research.  Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciative.  Bob...

Great question. Our Diplomat is double paned and some of them have “popped” and now have moisture in them. I did find an article on replacing the them but it seam like an expensive operation. Let’s see if somebody has the answers.

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I find it hard to believe that a 09 Marquis has single pane windows. My 04 Dynasty had dual and my 08 Navigator does too BUT they are not very thick… like 3/8” total thickness. Have you looked at a end of a sliding window?

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I have a Monica Signature noble lll and it had all double Payne windows. A couple in front failed . Monaco wanted $750 plus shipping for one. The other was not available. I replaced them with laminated tented glass at a reasonable price. 
A lot of the new motor homes no longer use thermal windows account of the failure problem . Recommend  you don’t replace the windows with thermal glass. Because of the thickness of the thermal panels, there is not that much heat or AC loss.

Dave Houchin

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I had 3 windows fog and repaired them myself buying most of the materials from DK Hardware.  Wasn't hard, did in 2015 and they are still all good.  Cost ~$100. 

As to modifying single pane windows making them dual pane, I'd be surprised unless the width of the tracks would allow for it.   Then finding the correct width aluminum frames would difficult at best.  I would suggest calling some window repair facilities and see what they say.   

A little surprised that a Beaver Marquis didn't have dual pane windows.  Wonder if someone made them single pane.  I'd looked at a 2007 Beaver Marquis Moonstone, really liked the layout but if it doesn't have dual pane windows it's off my wish list.

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14 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I had 3 windows fog and repaired them myself buying most of the materials from DK Hardware.  Wasn't hard, did in 2015 and they are still all good.  Cost ~$100. 

As to modifying single pane windows making them dual pane, I'd be surprised unless the width of the tracks would allow for it.   Then finding the correct width aluminum frames would difficult at best.  I would suggest calling some window repair facilities and see what they say.   

A little surprised that a Beaver Marquis didn't have dual pane windows.  Wonder if someone made them single pane.  I'd looked at a 2007 Beaver Marquis Moonstone, really liked the layout but if it doesn't have dual pane windows it's off my wish list.

Could you let us know how you did them?

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3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Here is a post I did on IRV2.  I had done quite a bit of research and reached out to a couple other members for advice. 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html

The hardest window as the drivers side with the slider, mostly because it was pretty heavy to handle myself. 

Thanks Jim, you just convinced me. I’ll do this job under your “shadow” guidance.

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Well, I feel really stupid.  I've never checked and "assumed" since my driver electric up/down window was single pane that the rest of the coach was single pane.  After the responses to this thread, I went and checked and we do in fact have double pane windows on all the side windows.  None have fogged by the way.  So, I can take this off the mod list.  I'm still underway adding insulation to the cap, engine compartment, front dash and inside as many cabinets and side walls I can get too.  I'm not happy with the really hot days.  It's not while stationary as it stabilizes pretty cool.  My issue is the coach does not hold temperature and heats up while rolling down the road.  I run the genset with all 3 A/C's plus dash air and have confirmed they are cooling down, it's just the heat load takes over.  I've looked for leaks as well.

Thanks for all the responses.  Problem solved on dual pane windows as I already have them.  Thx, Bob...

IMG_0789.jpg

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Bob125, I can't believe you are having so much trouble cooling down when running all three ACs going down the road. I can keep up with heat load on my 40ft Scepter with only the front AC that is sick (new one waiting to be installed). Your ACs should each cool to a minimum twenty degree differential. If they don't then they need some work or replacement.

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Bob, you just confirmed one of my favorite sayings “no one sees you when you’re cool” and on that subject…..

assuming only 2 people I would add a MaxAir vent cover to the bathroom vent and run that vent on hi when traveling. I would shut the sliding door to the bedroom while traveling.

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54 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Although my coach does have dual pane windows, single pane windows would not have been a deal breaker.

Sorry it’s a deal breaker for me. Guess you never camped when it’s cold or have a window over the head of the bed that’s single pane in the winter. If a DP had single pane windows I’d worry about what else they went cheap on. 

Last summer we had the outer pane on a side window get shattered in WY and 5 months later, had it fixed at Suncoast in Hudson Fla.  Did have to shim it to keep it from rattling. 

Edited by Ivylog
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I've confirmed all 3 A/C's cool at least 20 deg differential.  I even have checked the differential going down the road thinking maybe they get weaker with airflow, but they were good.  On this 2009 Marquis floor plan, while driving and slides in, the slides cover up 4 of the 10 AC outlets in the kitchen/driving area and the air just blows on top of the slides.  I guess it still circulates but I don't think this is good.  And all the bedroom outlets are this way.  I'm thinking about cutting holes and ducting area directly through the AC interior covers to get AC air flowing better.

I've confirmed I have no return air getting cycled back or mixed in with the supply side.  I've smoothed out the flow in the ducts and that helped get some more airflow.  I've checked the best I can for outside air filtration into the coach while driving and cannot find any.  Maybe there is some type of pressurization and/or vacuum that is cutting into the AC effectiveness.  We do have a gold and black exterior that adds heat load.  I wonder about the flooring as well.  Could be lot's of heat gain from the hot road in the summer.

So, what I am doing now is adding more insulation in the front cap, front dash area, as much of the interior sides I can get too and the whole engine compartment.

I do not have Maxxair covers.  I'll get some of those.  How would leaving the vents cracked or open while driving help the AC's cool better?  I figure that would potentially let cool AC air out?

Thanks for any assistance.  We have owned this coach new since 2009 and this is my one mod/fix I cannot figure out.  Bob...

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I would suggest just for comparison, rather than run the dash AC, try turning the selector to off.  That way no air comes in through the heating/AC dash system.  It makes a huge difference in our coach.  Now when it becomes too hot for the dash air I start the gen run the 3 roof AC's and shut off the system selector.

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Bob, if you use the engine (dash) ac on recirculate you can get cooling without letting warm outside air in. Also, I close all vents in the back of the coach and over the slides. That way you will feel the cool air coming from the vents over driver and passenger heads.

If you are like me and don't often use the generator, traveling is a great time to exercise it. You probably won't notice any impact to your fuel mileage and it keeps generator in top shape. A generator needs to work regularly under a load to remove accumulated moisture from the generating coils and short spurts of usage while in a campground is typically not enough.

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Just completed a really hot trip… CO to GA. Did most of Kansas at night but still had to run the 2 front ACs as the dash stopped cooling. After 12 hours on the road, got a CG with 50 A power and ran all 3 ACs. Open the engine hatch as the back floor in the BR was 110 degrees. Front stayed fairly cool but the back took 4 hours to finally cool down and that took closing the front ceiling vents to force more cool air to the back. We run the bathroom vent while on the road to help get some on the engine heat out.

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