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Air leveling aux compressor air line routing


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I was replacing the auxiliary air leveling compressor 90-120 psi switch and noticed some water in the low spot bend by the T push connector.   Line was routed as compressor air enters T on the side, up goes to the tank, down loops down then up very high to the pressure switch.  So looks like moisture will collect in the down bend but never reach the internals of the pressure switch as that is tied up high, but that is a dead end line. Should it be plumbed such that moisture will blow thru into the tank?  i.e. instead of the T being on it's side it would be horizontal with pressure switch line coming off the top of the T and in/out lines on the horizontal plane (T upside down rather than sideways)?  I've never seen any sign of water vapor when cracking the air bleed valves.  Or would it make sense to plumb in another cheap/simple dryer from the aux compressor which feeds only the air suspension tank.  Moisture probably would not be ideal in the six-pack valves.  Either I had a bad switch (which I assumed) or the water in that bend made the pump cycle wierd ... as in run sometimes for a minute then cycle off but at other times run for part of a second every couple of seconds for minutes before staying on long enough to build up pressure.  I assumed bad internal switch contacts but would water caught in that low bend make sensing pressure wierd?   It works normally now with the new switch and drained line, but wondering about future condensation.  Guess I could break the line every now and then for draining condensation but the tubing and push connector would likely wear out.  Just trying to figure out what idea is best long term.  It was probably collecting condensation for years...

 

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Can you insert a "T" in the low spot on the bend? Then a short piece of tubing off the "T" leg pointed down and put a 1/4 turn drain valve on the end. Similar to the drain valves from the MFG.

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I installed an auto draining water/sediment filter after the compress check valve. Cost about $45.00 plus a couple npt to push lock air fittings and should protect everything in the system.

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28 minutes ago, Old Dog said:

I installed an auto draining water/sediment filter after the compress check valve. Cost about $45.00 plus a couple npt to push lock air fittings and should protect everything in the system.

Would you have a picture or more info on the filter?

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I can dig out a pn tomorrow. Not too hard to find. I searched by npt size (either 1/4" or 3/8", most are 1/4" but I up sized my compressor and line to the tank to 3/8") filter seperator then you have to id one that has the auto drain that way you're not crawling under all the time. The water seperator is real important in high humidity areas if parked for long periods.

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P/N for 3/8" NPT Fiter is SAF300-N03BD-MEP, 1/4" Unit is SAF200. They can be ordered with a bunch of different configurations i.e auto drain, metal bowl etc which is what the 2rd and 3rd set of numbers indicate. Units are very compact and readily available from Amazon. Hope this helps

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It does.  Thank you very much.  I have never worried about water in the line, but mine makes a big loop, so the water gets caught there, and it seems about once a year I break the lines for one thing or another and get a small amount of water out, but the filter makes sense.  I moved my pump inside a bay compartment so it is very easy to get to now and is out of the weather.

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Curious as to we’re everyone is getting parts, this is all new to me, I checked the power to the compressor last night and it has power, now trying to get the pump to come on…..

im assuming I’d have to level the coach then drain the air tanks and see what happens???

 

Thanks

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FWIW, Rock Auto also has DOT fittings.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/brake+&+wheel+hub,air+brake,air+brake+union,244

There are many other online places that may sell industrial fittings (for a lot less) as opposed to DOT approved.  Just saying to be careful...  Sometimes it is handy to have a spare T or straight connector, they don't take up much room... Seems like I never need the spare parts I carry but always need what I left at home.

BTW, I ended up putting a simple desiccant cartridge inline between my check valve and close to the aux pump. I'll have to see how long it lasts as opposed to a filter drain bowl/valve but my thinking was low use volume and hopefully dryer air. (Some cartridges are only rated for 90 psi so I made sure the one I selected was good for >120 psi of the pressure switch.)

Edited by amphi_sc
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On 10/21/2021 at 4:06 AM, Jdw12345 said:

Curious as to we’re everyone is getting parts, this is all new to me, I checked the power to the compressor last night and it has power, now trying to get the pump to come on…..

im assuming I’d have to level the coach then drain the air tanks and see what happens???

 

Thanks

Just open the drain on the bottom of the aux leveling tank. 

If the compressor is functional, and has power, it should start up.

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You don't say what brand of air leveling you have in your coach.

I replaced & relocated my failed air compressor back in 2019.

Here is the thread and photos of what I did.

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/296-hwh-air-compressor-replacement-last-summer/?tab=comments#comment-2064

My original unit (HWH) came with an air dryer which I cleaned up and tested. It automatically expels any trapped moisture in the line.

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