Florainer Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 We have a 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial. The entry door has begun to leak when it rains. The rig has been in storage for almost a year; we didn't notice this problem before then. The problem may be with the door seals. Is a list of what seals this door uses available anywhere? Or is there a recommended company for me to contact about this problem? I'd like to try to fix it myself, rather than have to break down the whole storage setup to move it someplace. Thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gospel Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Don't have a HR, however look on the roof directly above the door. I had a open seam above the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 After you check the roof above the door, you need to adjust the door so it will close tight against the seals. Just because the coach was in storage doesn't mean when you take the coach out of storage everything would remain the same. The ole saying "that if you do not use it you loose it" applies. If you put a coach in storage you need to take it out of storage at least once a month to exercise all the systems. Chuck B 2004 Windsor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Did a little research before I posted. Your entry door is designed to be “water tight”, which is a misnomer….it is not sealed like a submarine. That is the primary gasket around it. That is where you should look. BUT, seeing water inside the MH “in and or near” the entry door might be from a leak on the sidewall or where the roof joins or rolls over. So, do some inspection on the top. Based on your posts, if you can duplicate the water leak by a controlled garden hose spray directly above the door or on the sides, the that focuses you there. By controlled, I don’t mean blasting it….just a mist pattern that would simulate rain or perhaps blowing rain or a hard rain. There is a secondary seal, in case you are not familiar with it, called an “Air Seal”. The internal gasket inside and on the interior frame is a hollow air bladder that runs around the entire frame. It is pressurized to maybe 4 or so PSI. There is a regulator and a control valve just inside the Generator compartment towards the bottom front corner of the door frame. That is ONLY activated when the ignition is ON…and some systems have a speed input from the tranny or ECM and the MH must be in drive and going say 5 MPH. That seal is for AIR NOISE….of course it would help prevent water, but it turns off or exhausts when you shut down and set the parking brake. It is, in NO way, active in storage …. Nor is it designed for storage entry water control. So understand there are two different gaskets…and the larger spongy or compressed rubber one on the outside is the one to look at…or above….don’t mess with the air seal bladder or the regulator. I actually use a high performance gasket grease or lubrication on both the exterior gasket and the air seal to keep the rubber pliable…..same thing that Jay Leno has his 25 man crew use to lubricate the gaskets and weather stripping on his car collection of antiques or expensive ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 If my memory serves me correct, the air seal was only used on higher model coaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Just now, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said: If my memory serves me correct, the air seal was only used on higher model coaches. He has a 2003 Imperial. That had that feature….as best I can determine from folks with 2003 DynastyImperials posting questions here or other sites on the “air seal” issues. Monaco kept upgrading and adding to models. My Camelot has it In 2009, but it was on them for several years back. I think some of the lower ones, below the Camelot maybe. But definitely, unless the info was incorrect, on the Imperials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 I believe that back in 2004, the HR Imperials and the Windsor were cut out of similar cloths. If so , my 2004 Windsor did not have the air seal on the door. Chuck B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florainer Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thanks for all your great help! I'll check out the things that have been recommended. BTW, the info I have is the Imperial was equivalent to a Monaco Executive, which was "above" the Dynasty and Windsor. It was HR's top-of-the-line. That said, I don't know if we have the air seal or not - guess I'll find out! Thanks again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 That depends on the year the coach was made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 12 minutes ago, Florainer said: Thanks for all your great help! I'll check out the things that have been recommended. BTW, the info I have is the Imperial was equivalent to a Monaco Executive, which was "above" the Dynasty and Windsor. It was HR's top-of-the-line. That said, I don't know if we have the air seal or not - guess I'll find out! Thanks again!! i can’t speak for 2003, but from about 2004, according to a HR RV General Manger of a large sales site, it goes like this. He always had Imperials, but upgraded, to a Navigator. He had a new MH every year that was “personally owned” by him, but leased back as a “demonstrator” so folks could see the differences. He also sold the Navigators, special runs….with the equivalent “Signature” features, to NASCAR Drivers and Crew Chiefs….the owners were Prevost folks. I’d heavily wager on the air seal. If there is a rubber gasket all around the inside of the frame and it is molded and joined, almost seamlessly, in each corner….that is the air seal. The main gasket can be on the door or sometime on the body or just outside the frame… do not mess with the air seal. It is very robust and is not replaceable. Folks have used a variety of methods to salvage and fix pinhole leaks. Yes…some HAVE been able to find a replacement….or so has been posted, but that is a true rarity, like a prize Pearl in an oyster… Imperial = Dynasty Navigator = Executive No HR Equivalent for Signature. BUT could custom order some Sig features on a Navigator….sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Check the belt molding above and near the door. If there is a gap of any kind it will allow water to penetrate, and it can travel quite a ways so look along the length above the door. Within the last couple years there was someone chasing a leak at the entry door and I believe it ended up being the belt molding. On my coach at the junction of the rear cap and roof there was a slight distortion (curve) in the belt molding, there was a crack in the caulk that allowed for a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad A Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 I had a leak that showed up on the bottom step. Turns out it was the caulking at the lower front moulding of the door. Recaulked it and the leak went away. Might want to check there as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florainer Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 So if the belt molding or door molding needs caulking should I use Geocel ProFlex RV for that? Thanks for wonderful replies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 1 minute ago, Florainer said: So if the belt molding or door molding needs caulking should I use Geocel ProFlex RV for that? Thanks for wonderful replies! Belt mouldings or cracks or seams…YES. PROFLEX works fine. No CLEAR GENERIC SILICONE…POOR UV RESISTANCE. BUT, the gaskets around or on top or bottom are “self adhesive”. You will need to find the profile and order or go by a large RV dealer. Their parts Dept can usually cross reference. IF the gaskets are OK, BUT pulled loose or partially detached, I have carefully removed with WD40 as a glue loosener or “solvent”. Then you remove the glue or adhesive residue from the body with WD40. On Rubber, I used acetone. Then I washed the mating surfaces with soap like Dawn Detergent. Rinsed thoroughly and dried. One quick thin swipe, carefully ONLY on the painted surface with acetone. You can mask off with blue painter tape. Don’t get carried away and do twice the width. Same for Rubber. use the 3M CLEAR VHB Double tape. Amazon has. Order the width you need (whatever was OEM) or trim. That stuff will be better that OEM. It is the thinnest you can buy with the adhesive power of OEM. GOOD LUCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 So on the air seal is there a Way to inflate it to check it and also is there any way to repair it if it’s leaking? I was wondering if anybody knew where I could buy a new one if I needed it? Thanks Don 2007 Monaco Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 There is a Mac valve in the air line that feeds the regulators and could be hot wired but in my case all I need is ignition ON and a magnet at the door switch. I had a crack at the bottom threshold location. Also had to replace the rubber hose feeding it through the lower front frame corner. I bought a bicycle tube, cut a piece, cleaned and roughed up with sandpaper and made a single wrap around the crack. Tried different glues to hold it in place with just temporary success but at the end, black flexseal (used to be all over TV) did the trick few years ago. Make sure the regulators work and set the pressure very low, like 5 psi at most. Good luck finding a new one but I heard someone had one made, just don't know where and how much. Years ago I saw it for sale, like $800 range, crazy IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 We had an enterprising person check theirs. He bought a low pressure gauge. You need one that is maybe 0 - 10/15 PSI. Some vacuum gauges, back in the dark ages, also would measure Fuel Pressure ….when we had mechanical fuel pumps. He put in a “T” after the Mac Valve. He ran a line up, on the outside, and taped the gauge to the windshield. Then drove it. There were different circuits…but basically, above say 5 - 8 MPH, the valve opens. So the seal is inflated. Gauge should read about 4 - 6 PSI. Then you slow down, some dropped off when speed was reduced, OTHERS, dropped off or expelled the air when the ignition was turned off….otherwise, no open door. The air seal is for WIND noise. The outer gasket is for WATER. Otherwise, you would have to pressurize it when in storage or Parked. I would work on the exterior gaskets…..and see where the penetration is….I just added the air gasket info so that you did not mistakenly do damage to the inner air seal or bladder. That will set you back today….if you can get one, upwards of $2K. Good luck… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 Wow very pricey. I’m going to try the magnet trick if that doesn’t work I will try and hard wire it. I love the flex seal idea. I noticed a lot of wind noise the last few trips and what looks like a tear in the rubber. My door was lose when you lifted up and down on it so looked for a way to tighten it with no luck so I put a bolt in the framework now the door is tight by I have noise. I wonder if I should have left well enough alone🤷🏼♂️. Don 2007 Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florainer Posted October 19, 2022 Author Share Posted October 19, 2022 Thanks again for all the help!! So far I've checked the top belt molding all along the passenger side of the rig, and found cracks that had developed. These are likely the source of the leaking, especially since the front of the rig is lower than the back, so leaks can run up to the door. I sealed them with ProFlex, and I'm waiting for it to rain some to see if that's fixed it. There is also a strip of small, narrow rubber weatherstripping along the top of the door frame that was loose, with a section missing. I contacted Lazydays in Wildwood about this. They found to correct part number and ordered it for me. I'll see if this helps seal the door when it's raining and windy. I'll use Tom's advice about how to properly install the new strip. The outer seal on the door meets with this small rubber strip to form its seal, so the problems with the strip are significant. I should put newspaper in the damaged carpet area inside the door to see if it gets stained from any further leaking. Thanks again for all your help! Oh, one further mention - there were cracks above the top belt molding on the passenger side, but not the driver's side, I wonder why the difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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