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Brake shoe(s) stuck to the brake drums(s) -again


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Hello Monaco'ers

This happened to me couple years ago. Back then I have tried shifting D to R a few times, then hit the drums with a 4 lb hammer, but at the end force separating the shoe with a 15" hook bar did the trick.

So, this time, I've tried all the same tricks; shifting/rocking, hitting the drum, and even the hook bar, but no joy, the darn shoe is still stuck 😫 

Next I am thinking to use a cold chisel between the metal on the shoe and drum (red arrow) and see if that can separate the shoe with a hammer. I was wondering if you nice folks has any other thoughts on how to deal with a stubborn stuck brake shoe.

Thank you

Ali  

rear-brake.jpg

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27 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Before you hit it, can you see the s-cam on top to confirm that there is space for the shoe to back off, in case the rod was bent or something?

Yes, this is the driver side rear wheel, and the first photo was part of the wheel facing back. I think the s-cam is the part facing the front (please see below). Do I need to remove something to expose the s-cam?

rear-brake-R.jpg

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You might need a new maxi brake canister, a s-cam bushing might be bad and the s-cam is wedged.

 Your arrow is pointed at the anchor pin side of the brakes, very little movement on that side, the front of the brake is where the most movement occurs, that’s the s-cam side.  It’s also possible that you have a bad slack adjuster and it’s adjusting to tight. If you freed it before I’m guessing you might have a bad s-cam or bushings.

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Here is another photo. This one is the passenger side rear wheel. For both wheels, the top shoe is loose, but the bottom ones are frozen. Last time we used the RV it was for a Christmas trip, and on the way back there were heavy rain. It has been parked since, and many rainy days in California.  I must find a way to un-stuck the bottom shoes with minimum force.

pass.jpg

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Yeah, I forgot about the orientation and was hoping that you might have better view of the s-cam. Both wheels the same bottom shoe, probably just rusted in. Air hammer with a flat metal (like a prybar?) between it and the shoe frame to introduce vibrations?  Maybe? Sound shade tree but I would try it, at the front side where it should have more play.

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Make sure wheels are choked just in case the coach is on a grade and you release the stuck brake and it rolls,strange this came up this morning, was thinking about it ,I may have the same issue when I get to my rig in couple weeks,I am going to spray penetrating oil on the from caliper pins and let soak for a few days while I change Aqua hot fuel filter and top up the water in the batteries, hopefully my back brakes release, let us know how you make out,good luck.

Ivan ,have you ever had a problem with back brakes releasing? 

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

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If your rig has sat for a while and the last time you drove it it was raining, it’s not uncommon for the brakes to stick to the drum, I’ve has this happen to my work truck, if you simply release the park brake and step on the brake pedal somewhat hard but not a full application it might brake it lose,if that didn’t work you might try putting the coach in reverse and try to back up a bit if you have the room to do so, just be ready to apply the brakes with your left foot should brake lose,  obviously if you decide to go under the coach block at least two wheel positions, if not more and tap the drum with a hammer, hit on the outer edge of the drum progressively harder till the brakes free up. It sounds like your coach has sat for a bit, I didn’t realize that, I was under the assumption that you may have just stopped for a rest stop during the day. Hopefully this will help you out.

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Your engine torque will easily overcome the friction of a stuck or frozen brake pad. No reason to beat or hammer on it. I would backup as some brake systems are designed to utilize forward rotation as mechanical advantage to increase shoe pressure. Then you can make sure the S cam is rotating properly and the springs are holding the shoe off the drum.

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4 hours ago, WayneC said:

Ivan ,have you ever had a problem with back brakes releasing? 

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

Wayne, I only have drums on the tag, so no, I did not since they are no parking brake. 

But I had a problem with the LR caliper sticking on its sliders and wearing down the outer pad and rotor side which I did not realize until late, if that's what you are referring to.

Edited by Ivan K
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  • Solution

As a retired truck driver from BC Canada with 43 years and 0ver 3 million miles I have had this issue with both rusted and frozen brakes. What this person is suffering from is shoes rusted to the drum. You can hit the drum with a hammer, pry with a bar or release brakes and use power. With drums it is easier if you back up but will break loose by going ahead. No one here laying on their side or back under there coach and hitting the drum with a hammer is going to hurt the drum. Recommend when driving in heavy rain and just before parking gently apply brakes while under power until you feel them start to grab just to dry them out. 

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I had this exact situation happen to me a few year’s ago after parking the rig for 2 months. I attempted to use the engine torque to release the rusted brakes. What broke loose was my rear end. That cost me $4200 plus towing costs. If you use engine power be gentle, diesel engines have a lot of torque. Before towing, the mechanic freed the brakes with a pry bar so they weren’t even stuck as badly as yours.

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"then hit the drums with a 4 lb hammer"

Try a 10#.  Make sure the wheels are chocked first, as another poster suggested.  Had a close call once because I thought I could get away with it....WRONG.  You won't hurt the drum.

Edited by CorinthWest
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1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Wayne, I only have drums on the tag, so no, I did not since they are no parking brake. 

But I had a problem with the LR caliper sticking on its sliders and wearing down the outer pad and rotor side which I did not realize until late, if that's what you are referring to.

That's is correct, I forgot that the tag is not a parking brake, that is good news,I will put the lubricant to all the calipers for a few days before I attempt anything. 

Thanks again

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

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12 hours ago, Rick A said:

Why did this occur? Where the brakes overheated? I don’t like the brute force because it could crack the drum or the pad. Maybe take the wheel off and try  heat then cold water.

This is not an Uncommon problem with Drum Brakes and the cause varies. If you reside or park in an area that has high Humidity it happens more frequently and can be avoided. This problem rarely happens with Disc Brakes.

What causes this to occur is when you park the coach and apply the park brake when the brakes are hot there is a probability that there is moisture between the brake shoes and the drums. When the park brake is applied, what happens is over time, as the brakes cool down, the drums will rust between the shoes and drums and then bond themselves together like glue. Rocking the coach between forward and reverse gear and applying a little throttle, will, in most cases unfreeze the brakes. If that does not work it may take a more aggressive approach to free the brakes up.

A sure way to keep this from happening is when you arrive at your destination especially after driving in the rain or in a High Temperature - High Humidity Environment, your brakes will be hot and damp. When you park your coach and if you are on a fairly level spot set your park brake, put the transmission in neutral, Chock the wheels to keep the coach from moving and then release the Park Brake . This will allow the brake shoes and drums to cool down and any moisture between the drums and shoes to evaporate and dry up. Wait about an hour or so and then set the park brake and you should help prevent this problem when you release the park brake on departure.

If you are going to be parked for any length of time you should exercise the park brake at least once a week or month to keep the brakes from freezing up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all for your help. I've decided to give a small air hammer a try. After securing the motorhome, I went under and gently tapped on the drums using the air hammer. After a few tries the brake shoes came free. I was happy that we can use the motorhome again. 

This is a wonderful group and your help is greatly appreciated.

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