recent lithium battery recommendations

[Jim McGarvie]

Folks, I am researching replacing my 6v AGMs with lithium. The four AGMs produce 440 Ah, of which about 220 is usable. I would like to get at least 50% more usable, maybe 300 Ah minimum. I would like batteries approved for 100% discharge, or close to it. I would like high quality BMS with Bluetooth.

Will Prowse seems to like the PowerUrus batteries (https://powerurus.com/products/powerurus-12v-100ah-lifepo4-deep-cycle-rechargeable-battery?aff=2). I could get three of them in my battery box.

Any opinions on those or other currently respected batteries?

Thanks.

Jim

 

[JDCrow]

I run the Chins. I have 2 standard 200ah in my boat (24v wired together)  and 1 of their 200ah “smart battery” in the Coach (battery has internal heater)

 

been great batteries so far 

[Seward G]

I did a conversion from lead acid to lithium iron phosphate a year ago.  I'm glad I did. 

Because of the higher voltage for charging and higher charging amps several other changes were necessary.  The magnum control panel was replaced, so that it's charging system would work. To protect the chassis alternator and boost it's voltage a DC/DC converter was added.  The RV already had 1,100 watts of solar panels and changing that system's charge profile was needed.  The new magnum controller and DC/DC converter together cost about $350.  I shortened the 2/0 battery cables; parts and a crimper were needed.  I added a heater and controller to the battery bay.

I am posting this so that others will have an idea of the equipment, material cost and labor that are in addition to buying and exchanging the batteries.  Keep us posted on your progress!

[JDCrow]

Agree, I had to change, a lot of my equipment and wiring.

New Multiplus 2, DC/DC charger, and because I had the old Xantrex mod sine inverter, that ran 2 circuits, I had to rewire those so all circuits were in the electrical panel. Lost the block heater circuit to make it all work.

 

I posted on my build, I can link if needed 

[Jim McGarvie]

3 hours ago, Seward G said:

I did a conversion from lead acid to lithium iron phosphate a year ago.  I'm glad I did. 

Because of the higher voltage for charging and higher charging amps several other changes were necessary.  The magnum control panel was replaced, so that it's charging system would work. To protect the chassis alternator and boost it's voltage a DC/DC converter was added.  The RV already had 1,100 watts of solar panels and changing that system's charge profile was needed.  The new magnum controller and DC/DC converter together cost about $350.  I shortened the 2/0 battery cables; parts and a crimper were needed.  I added a heater and controller to the battery bay.

I am posting this so that others will have an idea of the equipment, material cost and labor that are in addition to buying and exchanging the batteries.  Keep us posted on your progress!

Thanks for the good info, Jerry. Given our usual usage, I am going to avoid the DC/DC charger issue by simply disabling the solenoid between the chassis and house batteries. We don't need to charge our house batteries with the alternator while driving.

But what lithium batteries did you get, and how do you like them?

Thanks.

Edited May 23, 2023 by Jim McGarvie
added "with the alternator"

[Seward G]

I purchased three Redodo 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery Lithium Batteries with 100A BMS.  They were $619 each with free shipping from Amazon.  They arrived in perfect condition in about three days.  The voltages when delivered were with within a couple hundredths, so I did not balance them before installation.  I haven't had any problems with the batteries themselves.  I tried to use them without upgrading the Magnum controller; I couldn't get a full charge and discharged the batteries to BMS cutoff several times.  So I replaced the Magnum controller that has settings specific to LiFeP batteries.  

There remains a problem that I have to solve, cable voltage loss.  The Magnum charging can be as high as 100 amps.  The voltage drop from the charger to the battery terminals at this current can be as much as 0.7 volts.  I have the Magnum system set to bulk charge to about 14.8 volts, but this only brings the batteries to 14.1 volts.  Recommended is 14.4 to 14.6 volts at full charge.  So getting the batteries fully charged takes some manual overrides of the Magnum system.  The  positive cable path totals about four feet of 2/0 wire, a disconnect switch, and a 300 amp fuse.  The negative cable path is also about four feet from charger to battery terminal.  The losses are about 0.3 volts on the negative path and 0.4 volts on the positive path.  I think some but not most of the loss is from my cable crimps; I used a hammer crimper.  The temperature of the 2/0 copper wire can reach 140 F.  One improvement I would suggest to the charger manufacturers is to have separate voltage sensing wires from the battery directly to the charger controller circuit, to better measure actual battery voltage.  When using the Magnum as an inverter the current is sometimes 240 amps, the voltage sag is much worse; sometimes 1.4 volts.  I have thought about changing all the the wire to 4/0, and re-doing some of my crimps.  This problem does not affect our daily living (we are full time and boondock often) so we will probably live with it as it is.  But if someone has a suggestion, I'm interested!   

[timaz996]

2 hours ago, Seward G said:

I purchased three Redodo 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery Lithium Batteries with 100A BMS.  They were $619 each with free shipping from Amazon.  They arrived in perfect condition in about three days.  The voltages when delivered were with within a couple hundredths, so I did not balance them before installation.  I haven't had any problems with the batteries themselves.  I tried to use them without upgrading the Magnum controller; I couldn't get a full charge and discharged the batteries to BMS cutoff several times.  So I replaced the Magnum controller that has settings specific to LiFeP batteries.  

There remains a problem that I have to solve, cable voltage loss.  The Magnum charging can be as high as 100 amps.  The voltage drop from the charger to the battery terminals at this current can be as much as 0.7 volts.  I have the Magnum system set to bulk charge to about 14.8 volts, but this only brings the batteries to 14.1 volts.  Recommended is 14.4 to 14.6 volts at full charge.  So getting the batteries fully charged takes some manual overrides of the Magnum system.  The  positive cable path totals about four feet of 2/0 wire, a disconnect switch, and a 300 amp fuse.  The negative cable path is also about four feet from charger to battery terminal.  The losses are about 0.3 volts on the negative path and 0.4 volts on the positive path.  I think some but not most of the loss is from my cable crimps; I used a hammer crimper.  The temperature of the 2/0 copper wire can reach 140 F.  One improvement I would suggest to the charger manufacturers is to have separate voltage sensing wires from the battery directly to the charger controller circuit, to better measure actual battery voltage.  When using the Magnum as an inverter the current is sometimes 240 amps, the voltage sag is much worse; sometimes 1.4 volts.  I have thought about changing all the the wire to 4/0, and re-doing some of my crimps.  This problem does not affect our daily living (we are full time and boondock often) so we will probably live with it as it is.  But if someone has a suggestion, I'm interested!   

Jerry don't focus on fully charging your lithium batteries. They will last many times longer if they stay between 20 and 80 or 90% SOC. I purposely set the charge and float voltage a little lower on my solar controller and my MultiplusII so the batteries don't top off. Go on Will's forum and do a little research.  

[wamcneil]

2 hours ago, timaz996 said:

Jerry don't focus on fully charging your lithium batteries. They will last many times longer if they stay between 20 and 80 or 90% SOC. I purposely set the charge and float voltage a little lower on my solar controller and my MultiplusII so the batteries don't top off. Go on Will's forum and do a little research.  

And also, is there really a need to charge the batteries at 100a? If running the generator to charge, probably don't want the generator to run any longer than needed, but on shore power, cut the charge rate way down to minimize voltage drop and make life easier for the charger.

That being said... 0.7v drop sounds really, really bad for such short runs and 2/0 cable, and thats what Magnum recommends for 2000w inverters with short runs. If there's .7v sag when charging at 100a, how hot are the terminals when inverting at 200a????

Sounds to me like the crimps are horrible. I'd get a proper hydraulic crimper and start over again on the wiring. The crimpers are pretty cheap on amazon and work really well. With 2/0 can probably get by with a hand crimper. 

I agree with the gripes on the magnum voltage sensing. I've got a magnum inverter with the magnum BMS. The BMS is sensing voltage separate of the inverter via its own power wire and will show me an accurate battery voltage that is lower than what the charger sees. But regardless of whether the inverter is working alone or has the BMS connected to it, the charger uses voltage at the inverter's battery terminal exclusively. I called their tech support to confirm that my observation was accurate and they did indeed confirm that the battery charger does NOT use BMS voltage to regulate charging voltage. 

[1nolaguy]

I do ot know how much space you have but I replaced 4 6v golfcart batteries with 2-100 AHr SOK LiFePO4 batteries. It turns out our energery ussage is much greater than these two batteries can provide so now I am looking to add a 400AHr server rack battery. You can check out https://signaturesolar.com/promotions?utm_campaign=sale_may_savings_event&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=258952327&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_QRGRAvhQQG4gvDaSKV7l4VrspBMSu7bvNoeClmYW_cx2G9npNINlNxpnsFlwleNtehPAXk315k7u-hFgl6Vz_sHi1iQ&utm_content=258952327&utm_source=hs_email for current promotions. Very cost effective. Also check out Will Prowes on youtube for a lot of great information about Lithium batteries and systems. Changing to Li from lead acid may require other system changes you have not yet anticipated.

[wamcneil]

22 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Folks, I am researching replacing my 6v AGMs with lithium. The four AGMs produce 440 Ah, of which about 220 is usable. I would like to get at least 50% more usable, maybe 300 Ah minimum. I would like batteries approved for 100% discharge, or close to it. 

I can’t comment on the specific batteries that you’re considering, but I can share my experience with battery capacity. 
With a residential refrigerator, I generally use a minimum of about 200ah/day. 250 with kids watching tv and other misc loads.
With 4 golf cart batteries I could run a full day without plugging in but I had a lot of anxiety about running the batteries too low. I felt like I needed them totally full so I could make it through the day without killing the batteries. 
I sized the lithium batteries to go 2 days unplugged and it eliminates a lot of anxiety. Now I don’t stress about having the full capacity of the batteries available at any given point 

[Jim McGarvie]

1 hour ago, 1nolaguy said:

I do ot know how much space you have but I replaced 4 6v golfcart batteries with 2-100 AHr SOK LiFePO4 batteries. It turns out our energery ussage is much greater than these two batteries can provide so now I am looking to add a 400AHr server rack battery. You can check out https://signaturesolar.com/promotions?utm_campaign=sale_may_savings_event&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=258952327&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_QRGRAvhQQG4gvDaSKV7l4VrspBMSu7bvNoeClmYW_cx2G9npNINlNxpnsFlwleNtehPAXk315k7u-hFgl6Vz_sHi1iQ&utm_content=258952327&utm_source=hs_email for current promotions. Very cost effective. Also check out Will Prowes on youtube for a lot of great information about Lithium batteries and systems. Changing to Li from lead acid may require other system changes you have not yet anticipated.

Thanks for the good info, Loel.

17 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

I can’t comment on the specific batteries that you’re considering, but I can share my experience with battery capacity. 
With a residential refrigerator, I generally use a minimum of about 200ah/day. 250 with kids watching tv and other misc loads.
With 4 golf cart batteries I could run a full day without plugging in but I had a lot of anxiety about running the batteries too low. I felt like I needed them totally full so I could make it through the day without killing the batteries. 
I sized the lithium batteries to go 2 days unplugged and it eliminates a lot of anxiety. Now I don’t stress about having the full capacity of the batteries available at any given point 

Thanks Walter. Your experience before lithium was about what ours is now. So what kind of lithium batteries did you end up with, how many and what amp-hours, and how do you like them?

[wamcneil]

1 hour ago, Jim McGarvie said:

 So what kind of lithium batteries did you end up with, how many and what amp-hours, and how do you like them?

I had two 4-cell 270ah batteries custom manufactured in china through alibaba. Custom allowed me to size the batteries to fit neatly in the 4xGC tray with a total of 8 270ah cells in two stainless boxes. 
If I were doing it again I still might go custom or diy, but there seem to be descent turnkey options available now. There weren’t many options besides battle born at that time. 
I’m happy with them now, but it was an ordeal. The first pair were not satisfactory so the company (Xuba) agreed to reengineer them and build me two more batteries, which turned out well. It took them a while but they eventually made good. 
 

[1nolaguy]

Even with "plug and play" batteries, going from LA to Li is not as straight forward as one might think. For example, one needs to make sure their Inverter/ converter can fully charge them. Also you need to install a shunt based monitor. Traditional LA batteries gradually decline in volt output as they deplete but Li have steady voltage output until almost completely depleted. As a result, with out a proper monitor you can go from having electricity to dead is very short order.

[RoadTripper2084]

1 hour ago, 1nolaguy said:

Even with "plug and play" batteries, going from LA to Li is not as straight forward as one might think. For example, one needs to make sure their Inverter/ converter can fully charge them. Also you need to install a shunt based monitor. Traditional LA batteries gradually decline in volt output as they deplete but Li have steady voltage output until almost completely depleted. As a result, with out a proper monitor you can go from having electricity to dead is very short order.

My LiFeP04 battery BMS has built-in bluetooth so I can monitor the stats using an app on my phone, control whether whether or not charger and/or discharging is enabled. So I was able to skip purchasing a separate shunt monitor.

[Jim McGarvie]

1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

My LiFeP04 battery BMS has built-in bluetooth so I can monitor the stats using an app on my phone, control whether whether or not charger and/or discharging is enabled. So I was able to skip purchasing a separate shunt monitor.

Hey Ken, that is what I am hoping to find as well. What make and amp-hours are yours and how do you like them?

[windsorbill06]

Jim,

Looks like your looking for battery brand recommendations.  I put in (4) 1300 Lion batteries, each at 105 amp hours (these are 12 volt batteries).  They are nearly the same size as my old 6 volt batteries.  I actually have room to add 2 more lion's, if/when  I decide.

Costco offers them about 2-3 times a year on this particular battery (Not in their inventory continuously)  I believe they have it going on right now,  until the end of May.   $1399 for 2.    Not too bad a price.  They do not have internal heaters.     They should fit right into your battery tray.  Just have to change out the cables and address the charging issues with engine alternator and inverter/charger. 

 

 

[Jim McGarvie]

23 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

Jim,

Looks like your looking for battery brand recommendations.  I put in (4) 1300 Lion batteries, each at 105 amp hours (these are 12 volt batteries).  They are nearly the same size as my old 6 volt batteries.  I actually have room to add 2 more lion's, if/when  I decide.

Costco offers them about 2-3 times a year on this particular battery (Not in their inventory continuously)  I believe they have it going on right now,  until the end of May.   $1399 for 2.    Not too bad a price.  They do not have internal heaters.     They should fit right into your battery tray.  Just have to change out the cables and address the charging issues with engine alternator and inverter/charger. 

 

 

Thanks for that info, Bill. I will look into them.

 

[RoadTripper2084]

6 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Hey Ken, that is what I am hoping to find as well. What make and amp-hours are yours and how do you like them?

I actually assembled my 280ah battery myself using some quality cells from China, and well reviewed BMS module. Was a fun winter project, but probably not for most. Total cost was approx. $1K Cdn, or $630USD at the time. 

 

[Jim McGarvie]

3 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

I actually assembled my 280ah battery myself using some quality cells from China, and well reviewed BMS module. Was a fun winter project, but probably not for most. Total cost was approx. $1K Cdn, or $630USD at the time. 

 

Got it, thanks.

 

[vanwill52]

Although I must confess to not reading this thread carefully or from the beginning, nor do I have anything other than a passing interest in Lithium battery conversations, perhaps I can add something of value to the conversation.  If I am wrong, feel justified to flame me.

My coach has had carefully maintained LA batteries for over seven years now...a MIX of Interstate and Trojan (yeah, I know you absolutely, positively cannot do that) I cannot definitively rate their performance at this point today...but in my limited dry-camping experience, they have performed admirably.  To get that capacity, I had to use T-145 size batteries (approximately 1.5" taller than the normal T-105 battery), re-weld the house battery trays and relocate the chassis (maintenance-free LA) batteries to another location.

Overnight, and using a propane-powered furnace and residential fridge, in 45*F overnight temps (in my antique 2000 Dynasty with no slides), my 1000 AH of house battery capacity, had nearly 70% capacity after a long, cool night.  This was affirmed by my Hobart Engineering battery monitor device.

Although I am a mechanical engineer, "techie", and likely to "bite" on new technology, I think my next move (if any) will be to AGM.  I am too close (at 74 years old) to "hanging up the keys", to be willing to go through the full, meticulous change to Lithium.

That does not mean I disapprove of those who have made the switch, especially those who researched the challenges before they made the switch.  MIke Fitzgerald comes to mind.  I just wait to see that it is "commonplace" and "no big deal" before I invest the time and upgrading required to make a truly successful changeover...especially at my 74 years young age.  NO, I have not switched to Win 11, either.

Keep providing me with useful information for us "old folks".

[jimc99999]

34 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Although I am a mechanical engineer, "techie", and likely to "bite" on new technology, I think my next move (if any) will be to AGM.  I am too close (at 74 years old) to "hanging up the keys", to be willing to go through the full, meticulous change to Lithium.

I bought two VMAXTank MR-137 (120AH 12V) batteries 4 years ago and I wouldn't recommend them. We have not done much dry camping so they've spent most of their life charged but I feel like their capacity has dropped off dramatically. After about a year they also had problems pushing enough current to start the generator when fully charged, and at anything under 70% I had to use jumper cables (battery boost solenoid didn't seem to allow enough current, has since been replaced with ML-ACR). I had to switch the generator starter circuit to the chassis batteries. 

The VMAXTANK batteries are supposed to be the "good" AGM batteries, they do have plenty of lead in them.  But for the same $300/ea you can get a decent 12V 100AH lithium battery that maintains voltage down to 10% SOC and should support many more charge cycles. For $400 you can get the same battery with bluetooth BMS and battery heater so it can be charged in cold weather. If you're willing to buy parts and build a battery you can get more for less. Even the old Xantrex in my 97 Windsor should charge them to 90%+ using the "12 Volt Gel Cell Cool Temperature" setting (bulk charge to 14.4V).  If I were going to dry camp more I'd definitely switch.

Anyway, this is not to say you should switch to lithium. But I feel like there's no reason to switch from flooded to AGM. I've seen quite a few people mention getting 7+ years out of their wet cell batteries and nobody saying the same about AGM.  These days you're paying lithium prices for AGM and getting worse than flooded battery performance. 

Edited May 25, 2023 by jimc99999

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, jimc99999 said:

I bought two VMAXTank MR-137 (120AH 12V) batteries 4 years ago and I wouldn't recommend them. We have not done much dry camping so they've spent most of their life charged but I feel like their capacity has dropped off dramatically. After about a year they also had problems pushing enough current to start the generator when fully charged, and at anything under 70% I had to use jumper cables (battery boost solenoid didn't seem to allow enough current, has since been replaced with ML-ACR). I had to switch the generator starter circuit to the chassis batteries. 

The VMAXTANK batteries are supposed to be the "good" AGM batteries, they do have plenty of lead in them.  But for the same $300/ea you can get a decent 12V 100AH lithium battery that maintains voltage down to 10% SOC and should support many more charge cycles. For $400 you can get the same battery with bluetooth BMS and battery heater so it can be charged in cold weather. If you're willing to buy parts and build a battery you can get more for less. Even the old Xantrex in my 97 Windsor should charge them to 90%+ using the "12 Volt Gel Cell Cool Temperature" setting (bulk charge to 14.4V).  If I were going to dry camp more I'd definitely switch.

Anyway, this is not to say you should switch to lithium. But I feel like there's no reason to switch from flooded to AGM. I've seen quite a few people mention getting 7+ years out of their wet cell batteries and nobody saying the same about AGM.  These days you're paying lithium prices for AGM and getting worse than flooded battery performance. 

As long as one FULLY understands that an AGM must be carefully charged and the setup has to be precise.....then maybe.  However, we see more issues with folks saying....Gonna get them AGM's and NOT every add water nor mess with them....tired of the hassle.  We then get MORE....what went wrong....you can mess up AGM's and they are not as bullet proof as LA....ask Trojan....

UNFORTUNATELY....AGM's require the SAME amount of care and maintenance less adding Distilled water, that LA does. If you do NOT exercise and make sure the AGM's are being drained and brought back up, then your additional investment in AGM's will disappear like some of the Crypto Currencies.  

BUT, if folks are meticulous and do set the inverter/charger to properly recharge their particular type (1 or 2?) then they have a good shot at outlasting the conventional LA batteries.

Many of us have debated this and we are still, as Van implies, of the Buggy Whip (my top end Lenovo Laptop won't run Win 11) clan.  I am a graduate of the same fine institution of Higher Education as Van is.  I started out in EE....could not get past the Neper Plane of the Complex Frequency....which is only used if you go to Grad School....but we had to endure it.  I also started doing house wiring when I was 13 and spent time in college at the local TV station in Engineering....and then designed plants and electrical systems and also had large maintenance departments and actually did some heavy duty wiring (when they would let me)....as well as doing auto wiring projects before I started home wiring.

I understand a lot and still learn....but the basics of batteries is pretty simple.  I contributed two papers on Batteries and Magnum setup...

Van's dissertation is correct....I use the T-105 as I don't have the skill set or tools to totally rebuild my battery box.  I never have any issues.  Myself and others with far more knowledge routinely get 7 or more years out of our buggy whip model Trojans...

[Ivylog]

While on shore power I’ve found the AGM2 setting is the best for my Lithiums. Charge to over 90% and doesn’t start to recharge until down to 30% SOC. Unlike most batteries, Lithium should be “stored” at 50% SOC. I already had a disconnect switch on the BigBoy so not adding a DC-DC limiter. I have an additional 100 A charger that I use when dry camping to reduce my generator run time.

[Rocketman3]

I diy-ed my own 544ah battery (eight Lishen 272ah cells (2p4s)), with a Batrium BMS. I had previously changed out my inverter to a Victron 12/3000, plus solar (800w w/ Victron mppt).

We full-time in our 2000 Dynasty. 
 

You need to prevent charging when the batteries are below 32 degrees. I insulated the battery box the best I could. (Changed out starting battery to AGM). Insulated around lithium battery and a 12v heat pad (waste tank heating pad) below the battery have kept my batteries about 40 deg, when it has been in the high 20’s at night. Also my Victron Smartshunt has a temperature monitor so it tells my Multiplus and solar mppt’s to NOT charge if the battery is below about 38 degrees. 
 

Next, I broke the charging connection to the alternator - took out the dual battery isolator. (I later added a Dc-dc charger so the alternator could help charge the batteries- but that is not necessary).
 

You need at least one of your charging sources to be ideal for lithium- battery charger or solar. That way occasionally you can bring the battery up to a full charge so the bms can balance the cells. Wildly Unbalanced cells are bad!

As far a which battery I would recommend… if my Dad decided to add lithiums, I would go with Li-ion energy’s UT1300. I have looked at those batteries at RV shows - and I like them. 
 

One other item, make sure you have enough batteries to provide the current your inverter needs. If that is at least 300 amps - three 100a batteries with 100a bms or two 200a batteries with 150a bms’s (or more). In my case I need 400a of current through my 4/0 cables. 
 

You also need to track the state of charge of the batteries. It should be a shunt-based monitor. 
 

Good Luck with your project!
 

 

Edited May 26, 2023 by Rocketman3
Fix typo’s

[Michel Galarneau]

Hi, 

I had AGM (4X6 Volts, Total 800AH, 400 usable) batteries in my Dynasty 2009 and although I was able to spent the night with some spare power to start the Gen in the morning, it was a stretch. We have two Cpap running continuously and the AC fridge and a lot of other power eaters. 

I decided to go LFP and ordered 5X170AH (850AH usable power) Renogy batteries who appeared to be good quality at a good price. Also, I had to upgrade the Board in my Magnum 2800 Inverter/charger and change my Magnum ME-RC remote to provide a LFP profile. Also, I removed the BigBird relay and installed a DC/DC charger to provide charging with Solar and/or Alternator. 

I thought I was home free BUT I forgot one thing. While dry camping I happened to get the coffee maker, the blender and the toaster on which got the Inverter breaker to pop. After, resetting it I found that the batteries where less and less capable and would not charge properly. 

Let's move 6 months later and ALL my batteries where dead. Won't charge at all (They stay at around 3 Volts). I called Renogy who gave me a lot of things to try but nothing would work. Thanks Renogy, they honoured their warranty and sent me 5 replacement batteries. 

Unless, somebody can explain me differently, I think the BMS's in the batteries being 100AMPS failed and brought the rest of them down. 

Now, I found 2X480A/H Vicmax Battereis on Internet that comes with a 250AMPs BMS. I installed them and wasn't expecting much BUT they work great. Even with the toaster and Microwave on they stay up and provide ample power for a couple of days without running the Gen. 

I have 5 brand new Renogy batteries for sale...