gburgman2000 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose. He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 I drained the engine coolant, was time to change anyway... Pulled and replaced the 5/8 heater hoses from the AH to the engine Saturday, takes about 55 feet. Snaking the hose thru the hard clamps after cutting all the old zip ties and removing the old hoses. It took about 8 hours 1 pair of tyvek coveralls and lots of bad words but it 90% done I was black when I came out. I have to get a new set of coveralls and and go back under with cable ties and a can of spray foam for the back bulkhead and finish the job. I can't wait 🙂 I had to order some 1/2 green stripe hose to finish the AH reassembly that should be here tomorrow. I will post some pictures of the reassembly once it's done. Still debating on doing the front half of the heater hoses when I am done, but as hard as the back was I am sure I should, at least it will be a cleaner job, famous last words. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) Got it reassembled mostly and ready for final pieces/parts to be put in once in the rv, hopefully this week. All new Green and yellow stripe hoses as well as insulating blanket. I used Shark bite brass fitting vrs the plastic ones, I hope to never be this deep in the unit again! New hoses from the engine, slipped some pipe insulation over them for the area between the back bulkhead over top of the water tanks. Edited August 31, 2020 by gburgman2000 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KenAVTech Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Impressive, it looks like Little Man the nuclear test bomb!😳😉😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 On 9/1/2020 at 4:39 AM, KenAVTech said: Impressive, it looks like Little Man the nuclear test bomb!😳😉😂 Lol. Actually, Fat Man and Little Boy were the nukes that ended WW2, saving untold lives. 🇺🇸 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KenAVTech Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrod - R.I.P. Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 On 8/4/2020 at 10:12 AM, gburgman2000 said: The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose. He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch.. No left over parts after assembly 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 To soon to tell 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 All back together and working fine. Total materials to change out the boiler and all hoses. 9 gallons of Century Boiler concentrate 9 gallons of distilled water (ordered 5 gallon pails direct form Century, much cheaper). 70 feet of 5/8 Green stripe heater hose 10 feet of 1/2 Green stripe heater hose 1 foot 3/4 Green stripe heater hose 2 dozen big cable ties and 100's of paper towels and 1 tyvek suit. The engine side. New water pump from Cummins M&D distributors Part#: 5579024. Old one was not leaking but soon would have. $181.94 Much beefier than the original, better flow do to revised impeller. 7 gallons of antifreeze 7 gallons of distilled water Thermostat was new last year so did not change. Many hours of fun under the back end to do the hoses. The front was very simple roll the generator out and the hoses were right there along the center about 10 foot each 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 (edited) I ordered a new tank from John Carrillo, the guy is super helpful. It should be here this week. My question is the hoses that run from the engine preheat coil on the aqua hot tank where do they connect into the engine cooling system? I haven't had a chance to trace them out. Just in case anyone is wondering what is inside Old style Aqua Hot tank with domestic water on the outside see photos Edited January 26, 2021 by gjh2916 adding photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted January 4, 2021 Author Share Posted January 4, 2021 One end is at the water pump, the other end should be out of the back side of the head. At least on the ISL... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 I'll check it out, maybe mine is the same, I have a ISC engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4epilot Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 On 6/16/2020 at 10:15 AM, Ivan K said: Yeah, tons of fun pulling it out. Good job! I feel your back pain. Luckily, our fresh water loop is external so no need to cut the tank. My problem ended up being a coolant leak by the exhaust pipe, a pin hole. Later, the brass filler neck cracked and separated from the tank. It is just a brass piece soldered to steel pipe... I converted it to non-pressurized system with a nice test plug in place of the cap, used for radiator testing. It overflows into the overflow tank just like it always has, no difference. Since the thermostats will not let it actually reach boiling temperature, it works great ever since. There are ways to repair/replace the neck but it's just much easier this way and functions exactly the same. Pics for comparison: Ivan, Would you please send me a link or more information regarding the test cap you used to replace the standard pressure cap. I've been looking online and at NAPA. Can't find anything that will work, especially given the tight height clearance. Thanks. Gary K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Gary, here is a snapshot of the one I used. I peeled the brass sheetmetal neck off since it was cracked and leaking regardless how I tried to fix it. Thought about JB welding an aluminum neck in but not anymore since the plug works just fine. Including a pic of the aluminum option just in case you might like it better. Edited January 12, 2021 by Ivan K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4epilot Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Ivan K said: Gary, here is a snapshot of the one I used. I peeled the brass sheetmetal neck off since it was cracked and leaking regardless how I tried to fix it. Thought about JB welding an aluminum neck in but not anymore since the plug works just fine. Including a pic of the aluminum option just in case you might like it better. Ivan, Wow, I thought you simply replaced the standard pressure cap with the test cap. If I have it correctly now, you removed the entire neck that was welded into the hole in the tank and then into that tank hole you placed the rubber plug test cap? Very clever! Would never have thought of that. Were you able to remove the neck with everything in place except probably the sheet metal top of the AH? I don't think mine is leaking, YET. Want to lower the system pressure as much as possible to reduce the chances of springing a leak somewhere just as many of us did with the engine cooling system caps by going from 13 down to 7 PSI. Appreciate your time. Thanks. Gary K 06 Windsor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Gary, good for you that the neck is not leaking so you could simply insert the plug inside of it if you decide to use it. Just check the diameter to pick the right one. I did not even have to remove the cover, glad I did not because it is riveted with no good access and I have had it out previously for different reason. The neck wasn't even welded but only poorly soldered in and hardly holding to the steel pipe top. Yes, there is a short piece of steel pipe sticking out through the cover from the tank. Too easy to knock the brass neck off. I can't believe they did it that way, not even brass brazing, just a solder... I was pretty disappointed when I saw what they have done. Everyone should be super careful twisting the cap off. Hopefully they changed the design on later models, don't know... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmedina Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 On 6/16/2020 at 10:15 AM, Ivan K said: Yeah, tons of fun pulling it out. Good job! I feel your back pain. Luckily, our fresh water loop is external so no need to cut the tank. My problem ended up being a coolant leak by the exhaust pipe, a pin hole. Later, the brass filler neck cracked and separated from the tank. It is just a brass piece soldered to steel pipe... I converted it to non-pressurized system with a nice test plug in place of the cap, used for radiator testing. It overflows into the overflow tank just like it always has, no difference. Since the thermostats will not let it actually reach boiling temperature, it works great ever since. There are ways to repair/replace the neck but it's just much easier this way and functions exactly the same. Pics for comparison: Out of curiosity, how did you pull the freshwater loop off, I’m getting ready to do this myself over the next week. Hoping to cut the boiler tank in the middle and make any necessary repairs, then weld it back up and pressure test it. I’m praying there’s a way to safely remove and reinstall the fresh water loop on the shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 Raul, I tested a boiler leak sealer once I knew what is going on and it stopped the tiny leak completely. Not a drop since probably 6 years ago. I know there are people who completely replaced the outer loop with new tubing, it is doable. It appears to be the soft copper tubing used in residential HVAC applications. Good luck, you can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmedina Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 In terms of boiler sealant, is there anything you would recommend and any procedure? Im planning on disconnecting the engine preheat loop so that I don’t run the risk of overheating the engine by losing coolant. Is it best to apply the sealant while the tank is removed, or is this something you could do with the tank still in place on the coach? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 Raul, since ours has the external loop, I just dumped the sealer into the tank fill neck and let it go through few heating cycles. No different from radiator leak sealer. I did not have a preheat loop leak so did not worry about that part. I used gunk brand but there are plenty others. I did not have to remove the system just for it but I wanted to see where exactly the leak is located. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 Guy B your post and pictures are great. I'm getting ready to do this also. How did you handle the mass of wiring that goes to the Aqua Hot? Did you disconnect and label each one? Is there anything you would do different? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 Take lots of pictures and i used tape labels as well. It's really not that bad and there should be plenty of slack but it may be zip tied in a bundle above the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k7jv Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 Wow, Vito!! Good for you, looks like a huge project!! Hope it goes really well for you!!! Great to see your post. I hope all is well with you and your family. I really miss Tucson, the winter "warmth" and the opportunities to "share a bean" with you from time to time. Stay well and keep having all the fun they'll let you get away with!! JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 On 4/10/2022 at 10:59 PM, rmedina said: Out of curiosity, how did you pull the freshwater loop off, I’m getting ready to do this myself over the next week. Hoping to cut the boiler tank in the middle and make any necessary repairs, then weld it back up and pressure test it. I’m praying there’s a way to safely remove and reinstall the fresh water loop on the shell. Raul, I haven't rebuilt my boiler but I love reading about doing it. A number of people over on IRV2 have done it and there are threads there with pictures. Here is one thread that you may be interested in https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/aquahot-in-pieces-436421.html On 4/11/2022 at 2:06 PM, rmedina said: In terms of boiler sealant, is there anything you would recommend and any procedure? Im planning on disconnecting the engine preheat loop so that I don’t run the risk of overheating the engine by losing coolant. Is it best to apply the sealant while the tank is removed, or is this something you could do with the tank still in place on the coach? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Thank you. At the risk of showing my ignorance yet again. Do the engine and aqua hot fluids comingle? I didn't think they did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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